It’s very hard to describe the experience of setting off on a motorcycle, up a beach, in a place that feels like the moon, to ride through a place you’ve been dreaming about for a year or so. But I'll have a go. My dawn jitters and kitty ***** gloom lifted with the morning fog and pretty sharpish too, cause cruising up a beach on a bike is FKN BRILLIANT! And not just cause it’s normally illegal. You can spank along at great place, the beach is smooth and predictable, and the scenery is second to none.
We were riding right down on the hard stuff drifting in and out with the waves, ostensibly to find the hardest sand to ride on but more cause it's a super fun way to ride. We hadn’t seen a hint of another human since Foz and between us decided that going to a place once a year where you don’t see a hint of another human would be a Very Good Idea.
The first hour or so we ambled up the beach like this:
And this:
And (I know I’ve shown this already how but cool is this shot!) this:
And this (obligatory photographer’s static bike shot):
Then we stopped:
And gathered round to discuss this:
In the distance you’ll see sand dunes. Now I’m sure, dear reader, you’re aware that the infamous part of this stretch is where the dunes drop down pretty much straight into the sea. Before that section starts, however, there are these cheeky little spits of sand that run out, parallel to the beach. If you’re not a super alert navigator (none of us are super alert navigators) and you’re riding north, you’ll ride out on these spits, only to discover that you need to turn at the end and ride all the way back on the inside of the spit. Because we’re such magnificent planners, we didn’t have enough gas to do too many tour-de-spit’s, so we donned our Super Alert Navigator hats and tried to spot them. The pause in that pic was for a suspected sighting.
“Ah ha!”, said we, “we have cheeky land spit.”
The land spit said nothing.
“We will bypass this nefarious obstacle by riding directly towards the dunes. The dunes are our homing beacon.”
“They are the Star in the East to the three wise men” we didn’t add.
So Max set off, making a beeline for the dunes.
Aside – why is a straight line referred to as a beeline? Any observer of nature will know that a bee flies in a particularly meandering pattern. There can be no poorer example of a direct path than that which a bee follows. I bet the Angolan’s don’t have silly sayings like that.
Back to Max. He heads off at great pace, and then slows to a less great pace. There’s huge plume of mud coming off his back wheel and he’s inching along at walking pace – taps wiiiiide open. This was going to be trickier than expected. The Midget and I quickly decided that this wasn’t Buttercup territory so we took a proper bee line trying to avoid the Augustus Gloop.
It’s hard to avoid the attentions of Augustus Gloop. If you’re food.
I would ride ahead and find myself getting bogged down, then leap off and frantically direct the midget this way or that. The wee man was doing a remarkable job given his lack of saddle time but he had certainly never ridden anything like this so keeping the bike upright was taking 300% of his prodigious focus. There was no room for navigating, he just put his head down and followed my tracks. If I’d ridden off a cliff he would have come right after me, sweet little lemming that he is. If I didn’t get off my bike and leap about screaming “THAT WAY – HIGHER FKN UP!” he’d just ride straight into the back of my (stationary) bike.
On one of these occasions I safely got him onto harder sands and he chugged off comfortably. I must say I felt rather good about myself doing this – like a shepherd tending his little midget sheep.
I felt less good about myself when I hopped back on the bike and promptly buried the rear wheel:
By this time the Midge had disappeared out of view so there was naught to do but have a pee and wait for Max.
It did occur to me that I would be in a right spot of bother if I was on my own but that seemed like a bad line of thought to pursue so I resumed scanned the horizon for Max. Who pulled in shortly thereafter flying like a rally champ, clearly quite pleased with himself for mastering this gloop. I’d say possibly even smug.
Smug mug or not, I was pleased to see the fat panda and with some mutual pushing and shoving and gratuitous throttle work my little beauty popped back out and was good to go. “Happy days” said I, and roared off up the beach in search of the Midget who could have got himself into god knows what sort of trouble by this stage.
I did notice that my mirrors were devoid of headlights but Max stops a lot for pics so didn’t think much of it. When I finally caught the Midget we stopped and waited for the regroup. Which didn’t happen because Max, not to be outdone, had done this:
A stout effort I’m sure you’ll agree. Were it not for his panniers I’m sure he’d have struck oil. I might add that this was in EXCACTLY the same place as where I’d got stuck. Ahem...
More digging and pushing and shoving and spraying of sand and he was out too, and we were off. Again.
At this point we were all a little wary of the Augustus and none more so than the Midget. In the pic below, the dark stuff is the gloop (yes I know it doesn’t look like it and I’m sure you could fly through it if you just opened it up a liiiittle more. Make sure you’re filming). The light stuff is sand, obviously. Soft sand. With lots of ridges and old tracks and all manor of tricks n treats half hidden by the wind.
Neither of these were too inviting for the midget but buttercup was clearly not going to handle the gloop so high road it was. He ploughed on gamely but this was tough going. Buttercup’s front wheel was not tracking in a beeline. He fell once, then twice, then thrice, the third time twisting his knee a bit and resulting in a pair of rather wide eyes. I was riding behind him (that’s how he likes it), having to balance the humour of a harmless sand fall with the fear of something serious going wrong. And with each successive fall we were tending toward the latter.
The Midge was getting tired, but we were also running out of time. In our one and only act of meticulous planning, we had tide charts for Southern Angola so we sort of knew how much time we had. With each fall and stuck bike, we were cutting it finer and finer. Now I possibly have a tendency for over concern when there is a risk of my bike getting washed out to sea and me going without any dinner but I tried to contain my anxiety and told him to chill, take a rest and try find his groove. 5 deep yogic breaths, harmonic earth balance restored, he hopped back on and roared off riding with the skill of a man at least twice his height. He was looking brilliant… until he wasn’t. One second he was hammering it like Coma, the next he was face down on the sand. Unmoving.
My over-concern tendencies so straight to DEFCON 1 in situations like these. I charge over to him and help him get right side up.
“Dood, are you OK?”
“I face planted in the sand” he says.
I feel confident saying that this was the most superfluous statement I will ever hear. The peak of his helmet was shattered, with just one shard sticking straight up like a unicorn. His whole face was covered with sand, it was in his eyes, up his nose, and he could barely breath for the amount that was in his mouth. He had a wheelbarrow of sand down the front of his jacket. He stacked so fast he didn’t even have time to put his hands in front of his face before making contact with the floor.
All this Grand Adventure and we hadn’t even made it to the doodsakker proper. And from what we could tell, the tide had turned…