Not exactly SA...ride report from Bali, Indonesia...two up on a budget

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tifua

Race Dog
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
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Location
Johannesburg
Bike
BMW R1200GS Adventure
Not exactly South Africa but great riding country and very friendly country to visit and prices are the same as SA. Recently turned 40 and the significant other and I wanted to a short bike trip through Bali. For those that don't know, Bali is an island and not a place. When most hear the word Bali they think of coastal town but truth is the whole island is Bali and the part that most tourists flock to is in town called Denpasar. Decided to try rent small bike to blend in better (big bikes have very high import duties so they are very rare and tend to stand out) and keep costs down, we rented a KLX250. Bike arrived and when the day came to leave I found that two up with back pack on this small bike was inviting trouble (and the luggage rack fell apart in my hands having been tied to bike using cable tires) so I cancelled and rented a bike I love...Versys. I have done trips around northern Philippines on Versys and its perfect bike for Indonesia islands so called the guy and as he promised, it was standing in front of the hotel hour later. First day would be a long ride up to town call Singaraja at the top of the island of Bali. Chance to get used to the bike, sorting out packing and get used to Bali traffic. If you have never ridden in Asian countries with their 2 million scooters per km you are in for an experience. First bit was highway and then a left turn took us into small back roads through houses, temples and rice paddies up and down hills and winding plantation roads. Stop at the top of a hill turned out to be edge of a volcano and the view into the crater of a large lake was stunning. Long road to the hotel ahead with sharp declines and switch backs through lush jungle forests with mist was stunning.

Pictures will tell more so I will let them show the trip in more detail. We arrived in Sinaraja, checked in and took our stuff to the room. Small budget hotel, we showered then went out to get dinner. Mrs wanted a special kind of pork that is famous in Bali and I wanted Satay (small chicken kebabs cooked on open flame smothered in peanut sauce). R 10 for 10 and its delicious. Ride around seeing city a bit then hit the sack. Next morning we rode out of town to see a famous waterfall called GitGit. Bit of a walk from the parking but beautiful and a nice brunch saw us ready to hit the road again. Route would take us back to Sinjaraja and then along coastal roads before turning left and heading down the interior to see some lakes as we wind our way down to the cultural centre of Bali called Ubud. Last 1.5 hours of ride into Ubud was in dark through rice paddies and back roads. Mrs reading directions off the mobile as I focused on the road we found our way to a beautiful guest house in a quite back road. Unpacked, showered then off to get dinner. Found lovely restaurant around corner that was empty (July is low season), we sat down to hot meal and they did not disappoint. Food was so good and so well priced we ended up coming back the following night for dinner again. Next morning we checked out and went to a different hotel other side the town of Ubud. 10 min ride out of the city and you are in the middle of paddy fields and palm trees again and away from noise of busy city streets and tourists. Was a small B&B run by retired couple and while it was still being built, it was lovely place to relax. Took ride out to a another waterfall and enjoyed quite swim without 100's of tourists. Nice cool waters and very tranquil in a jungle clearing. Back to B&B, dinner then sleep.

Next morning we asked for late check out and went to see the famous monkey forest sanctuary in Ubud. Its a park for monkeys and its stunningly beautiful... its what you imagine a jungle for monkeys filled with old temple buildings would look like. Something out of jungle book. Definitely a great place especially for kids. Back to B&B packed up and began long ride back to Denpasar. I wanted to ride the toll road that runs out into the bay and about 10m above the water. Was very relaxing and they have dedicated bike lane next to the main road. Makes so much sense and for our purposes was great. We just cruised along slowly enjoying ocean breeze and scenery of mangroves and fishing boats. slow ride back to Kuta (another popular area of Bali), dinner and then back to hotel to wait for the rental company to collect the bike. 3 days ride, just under 500km, amazing scenary and a chance to enjoy all the sites, sounds, smells and flavours of Bali. Highly recommended and can be done on a budget. Hope the pictures convey more of  just how beautiful it is. Roads are perfect, safe and because the population all ride and grow up with bikes they are acutely aware of each other and respect bikes which have right of way. Even car drivers are bike aware
 
Some pics...

Map of first day; Map of second day; Map of 3rd day; Dinner in Kuta night before the ride; KLX250 with lose luggage rack
 

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some more pics.

The Versys, hotel night before ride; the lake inside Volcano (lake Batur)
 

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Hotel in Singaraja; cooked satay in peanut sauce; breakfast wrapped in banana leave; GitGit waterfall
 

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GitGit falls and brunch; winding road around volcano edges; mountain lakes
 

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more of lakes; 4 post bed in guest house; restaurant
 

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guest house in Ubud,
 

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falls, B&B, monkey sanctuary
 

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more monkey forest
 

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;)Wow looks awesome, thanks for posting . Food looks exciting!
 
Some really interesting places - thanks for sharing.
 
I imagine Bali isn't cheap, being a tourist hotspot and all?

I found Phuket expensive. especially alcohol  :eek7:
 
My gf is Chinese Indonesian and so she bargains with everybody and negotiates on prices. Some hotels we got as low as R300 a night. The big cost was the bike (around R1000 per day) but as I mentioned big bikes are premium there. If you have time and want more adventure you can rent KLX250 for $30 per day unlimited kilometers. I have ridden in Thailand and also in Philippines and agree, Thailand is getting very expensive as it becomes more tourist driven. Indonesia is still cheap and prices are all almost 1 to 1 with SA. ATM work and I have never felt in danger or ripped off. If you stay in the south of Bali where all the clubs are you will pay fortune but shop around. We use trip advisor, expedia, tiket.com and booking.com and look for sales and specials. Sometimes the sequence of special rates helps determine the route. 10 days in Indonesia with 4 days on bike, hotels every night and eating out for all our meals, fuel, tolls, gifts for two came in at $900.

We did discuss the idea of maybe putting together a trip for 10 - 15 people and doing a tour around Bali on dirt bikes. Maybe someday if there is enough interest and guys keen on it, I will set something up and include scenic rides, dirt roads, scuba, temples and bit of clubbing to end it off. I have been there 3 times in the last year and love it. Will become home one day when I can neg. the GF into marriage     
 
Thanks for that  :thumleft:

I think R1400 per day is pretty steep. .

Have you been to Vietnam? I believe it's stunning and very cheap compared to Indo, Thailand etc?

I would be going on a surf trip in Indo. Happy to stay in a beach hut with sardines for supper.  :biggrin:
 
$900 included flights from Jakarta and Surabaya to Bali and back again and for 2 people. I did a trip around Sa and the prices we pay for hotels and B&B's here is crazy and you get little for money. Food in Indo is cheap and you can eat well and keep costs down as well. Surfing you will love, they have scooters modified to carry boards and scooter is $10 per day rent. Vietnam is next and the gf is already starting to research routes, attractions, accommodation etc.
 
Thanks for sharing :thumleft:
Beautiful country, must be fun on a bike or scooter.
 
It looks great ,Just do not forget about the Botswana trip on the xr 's  :thumleft:
 
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