Right Around Africa

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Rynet said:
Yes thanks for the RR so far Jo , enjoying it very much  :thumleft: Keep us posted . :3some:

Thank you Rynet. It's my absolute pleasure. Like the song: "The Story - Brandi Carlile" says: "All of these stories don't mean a thing if I don't have someone to tell them to".
 
Just finished reading the report - RESPECT!!

Thanks for sharing, it is really awesome to see, keep going and keep the report coming. Well done so far :ricky: :ricky:
 
Great stuff Jo.....you're doing GREAT....keep it up and have fun. I check in here regularly for an update.....makes for good reading.

ENJOY!!!! and stay safe!
 
We went for a little breakfast run yesterday. The rain had subsided, so this was the perfect opportunity for me to see a bit of the countryside. Mali is such a beautiful country and I was looking forward to exploring it's dirt tracks a bit more.

So the three of us (Derick, Chrisjan and myself) got up at 6:00, had a coffee and packed the cooler (read panniers).
Derick on a BMW R1200GS, Chrisjan on a BMW F800GS and yours truly on my trusty Dakar.
All went well and we were having a ball playing in the dirt! That was until a guy next to the road gestured to me to turn back.

We came across this sight:
 

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Bike is pretty much totaled. The rider...miraculously...only suffered a few scrapes and bruises.

He was behind me and said he lost control of the bike. He obviously tried to regain control but was beyond the point of recovery. He went up an embankment and instead of leaving the throttle, he opened up and the bike flipped, slinging him a few meters away. Bike landed on it's head.
 
Eina, Glad he is OK!
Tell us a bit more as the story unfolds please.
Ja Nee, Probably showing off or attempting to show off for the Seuf Efrican Lady ne'?
Lekker ATGATT :eek:
 
It was as a result of pure inexperience in my opinion.
Derick (On the 1200) was leading, I was in the middle and Chrisjan behind me. After we had moved the bike and helped Chrisjan to a shady spot he told me that he had tried to ride like I do. We were on a gravel track with loads of potholes, so I was standing for most of the ride, maneuvering between and around the holes. I've had a lot of practice over the last 15 000 km's in dodging potholes. So he obviously tried standing and riding as well. But he doesn't have a lot of riding experience and that's where the proverbial paw-paw hit the fan. Went off the road, right up the embankment (about 2 meters high) and flipped the bike.

Oopsie!
 
Lyk my kan begin riding klasse gee! :imaposer:
 
Lyk my daar wag n level 1 kursus vir die ou .... meerkatte word getrain nie gebore nie !!! :biggrin: :biggrin:
 
Yesterday I was informed that I would have to go to Bamako as the Moroccan embassy wanted to see me in person! My pet hate is having to go back on a route I've already ridden. I don't know why, but I think this comes from my cycling days. Going forward equals progress...having to go back is the opposite of progress. Well, whichever way...I just don't like it. I REALLY didn't feel like taking the 6 hour ride back to Bamako. So last night I decided that they would have to send my passport back to me and then I will carry on to Dakar and apply for my visas there.

Last night I received news that my guy worked his magic and was able to get my Moroccan visa for me after all!!! Yesssss!!!!  :thumleft:  And he is currently at the Mauritanian embassy, busy sorting my visa for Mauritania! This means I should have my passport back by tomorrow or the day after. Then it's off to Senegal!!

I will probably spend 3/4 days in Senegal. First night is in Saly, with friends of mine. And then I'm off to the famous 'Zebra Bar' in St Louis. I'll spend a night or two here to gather information on the Rosso border crossing. It's known as THE worst border crossing in Africa. "Hell on earth". I'll post some reports on Rosso by fellow travelers for you guys to read. But not to worry...as always...I have a plan Stan!!!  :mwink:
 
Rosso Report by Traveler - 2004

Crossing this border was the absolute worst day of our trip (we crossed it around November 2004). I am generally not a violent person but just thinking about it makes me want to go back there with a machine gun and mow down anyone who comes near me! Actually no, that would be too easy, make it a .45 magnum and I will just kneecap them all!! .

We were first asked by the policeman manning the gate for some extortionate amount of money - and for this he said he would do everything for us. But we had been warned about him so we politely refused. Then he leaves you to your own devices and the vultures swarm in. The big uncertainty for us was the insurance, do we need it/how much is it/how long for/do we get it on the Mali side or the Senegal side. We had all kinds of offers and told they guys we would discuss it. So my wife and I went to sit in the shade and talk about. The f****ers had put a spy there and this guy was just sitting like he was part of the crowd. When he overheard us discussing it he insisted it was a good price and that he drives cars across the border all the time blah blah and that was his 4x4 over there blah blah so I (Forest Gump) evetually decided to trust him and we bought our insurance for 3months was $90 each! That is supposed to cover you for pretty much all west africa.

I think the actual price should be around $30 but this story varies depending on who you speak to. By this time I see who actually is driving the 4x4 and he has no idea who the other guy is. But then that b*stard has disappeared now anyway. These guys are really aggressive and completely swarm you and break you down. After nearly getting into a fight and completely losing my cool we eventually thought we were through. But then when you are at your lowest, you are just a shell of the man you once were, then the really nice guy from the Senegal side joins you on the ferry for the crossing. He says he will sort it out on the Senegal side for you for just a couple of dollars tip. Apparently you do have to give your docs to someone…can’t remember why or who told us but I thought what could go wrong…and he did say $2! Anyway, when we got to the other side we decided to go with this guy (remember we are broken, quivering wrecks. I want my mom at this stage). He then takes our documents and another guy gets involved. He is 12 foot toll and wears these huge African dictator style sunglasses – he is satan himself.

The stuff does get done, oh yes, they do it. But there’s one small catch, they have all your documents. And they won’t give them back unless you pay them. The guy who started the whole thing is happy to take his $2 but now he says this other guy (Satan) helped as well and he has to be payed…and they work in crowds. It’s constant bombardment of shouting and hussling. My wife was dealing with most of it while I watched the bikes because her French is better than mine. But at this point I had to step in again, I managed to keep my cool and I got the price knocked down a bit but we were broken and we just wanted to leave. So needless to say we left that border in a state of shock, rage and depression. The swarm of locusts (no shit) that we hit soon after really helped!!

This border has a bad reputation for reason. I am not sure if you really even need the insurance. Get it in St Louis or Dakar if you really want it. After that one expired we just wrote our bike registration numbers on our travel insurance documents and everyone seemed happy with that anyway. My tips would be to keep your cool, and make sure you make it clear to anyone who is going to help you that you are only paying them and no-one else. If you see Satan, please kick him in the nuts for me. On the plus side, after that border you must head straight for St Louis. Ask where the Zebra bar is. The will probably be signs if I remember correctly. This campsite is a bit of paradise that I will never forget and you will need it after that border. Not sure why it was so bad for us. Maybe we looked like mugs, maybe we were just unlucky.
 
On reflection, Rosso Border Crossing........

For overlander types familiar with traveling North South via West Africa, here is a summary (for the record) of what to expect if you go via Rosso into Senegal from Mauritania.  If you are just interested in reading about what one of the worst border crossings in Africa is like, read on.........

In May 2010, the wife and I left the UK to travel South to Cape Town and had the pleasure of going through Rosso a few weeks ago (Oct 2010). Rosso is one of the links between Mauritania and Senegal.  Its one of the crossings people dread on this kind of trip and really try to avoid.


1) The Rosso crossing is not as bad as people say as long as you "try" and stick to the following......You can avoid it and there is a better crossing at Diama that is reachable when the rains finish. West Africa had suffered some late / heavy rains in Sept / Oct 2010 and we found the route to Diama closed / flooded. Thus if you have no other option Rosso it is!

2) The border / crossing is true African experience and most of the blogs / posts on the topic are right, so if you have read up on it most of what happens is no surprise and you can arrive "prepared". Keeping your cool is key and take your time - dont get rushed and be firm but polite with the "masses" that "welcome" you.

3) Chaos starts way before you get to the border heading South from Mauri. We were "introduced" to a "guide" 15km North of the border who "chased" us in a Merc. When I say chased, I mean he and his 2 mates drove at speed to cut us up and stop us several times to make sure we "knew" that "they" were our "chosen" guides for the crossing and the people to buy insurance from etc..... These guys seriously intimidate the locals and offers of "free" help were jumped on quickly!!! Attempts to shake them off (changing direction, going back to previous police post etc....) simply resulted in them turning around and chasing us the other way. Easy to escape on motor bikes - less so in an aging Land Rover or push bike. These guys have a well rehearsed routine - with each of them fully understanding French and English they will stand right next to you and listen to your conversations. Try and be polite and talk in private when you are on the move.

4) As soon as you reach The Blue Gates (they have erected on both sides of the river) crowds gather..... you have no choice but to go through them to start the processing. This ensures that Westerners are "greeted" by the right "gang" that happens to have first pickings that day / time. Just ignore the idiots / kids / beggers / scammers and drive through the gates....drive and do not stop and a few inches from the gates they will miraculously open for you...... WELCOME TO ROSSO!

5) Parking is just down by the river. Park up and lock all doors etc... if you are on bikes..... leave your partner with the bikes and walk in with all your paperwork. If you were solo this would be hard work to secure your gear....pick pockets and thieves are ACTIVE and alert to all your moves, with young kids acting as distraction artists (singing, begging etc...) while older, more skilled Oliver Twist types try door handles, locks, bags etc.... etc.....

6) Police and customs are in on the scam..... they so not get involved in disputes and the "guides" are basically their slave / gimps that do their bidding (fetch tea, read out documents etc....) so kind of feel good about their position in the pecking order.

7) To avoid involvement of the "help" is a hard task..... even when (as we did) ignore all attempts of help, and handing our paperwork over to the police etc.... you realise that this gets given straight back to the "help". We accepted this and as we had not lost our cool with them things actually progressed quite smoothly and friendly.  A kind of Stockholm Syndrome begins to prevail !

8) While you keep your money in your pocket YOU hold slightly more power than them - its your cash they want - remember this and avoid handing money over in dribs and drabs. Make sure you state you will pay the "fees" when EVERYTHING is complete and all paperwork is back in your hands.



9) If you have more than 2 people in your group (we had 6 in our party) it helps to divvy up responsibilities. This helps create confusion for them and several people will stick with you to make sure where the "money is". Its kind of fun to keep this "show" going right to the end.

10) Ignore the B S""T info about needing insurance before you cross etc..... buy it on the other side. The "help" will cross the river with you and when you get to the other side a "handover" is made to "help" No. 2. Again, be friendly, don't loose your cool and work with the guy.

11) We bought a 6 month Carte Brun for 3rd party insurance for the Landy for West Africa Community Countries for 100 €. You will need to get this as its an easy bribe point at the numerous check points that exist on the way to St Louis. We got asked for it at least 6 times before St Louis along with a series of other items, like warning triangles, high vis jackets, fire extinguisher etc...etc....

12) When the helper gimps have finished with the paperwork the fun begins. There are some legit. fees to pay, ferry ticket, passivant etc...but the rest is fake. Here is what we paid as a guide (per couple / vehicle).
• Ferry ticket 23€
• Passivant, processing, tax 25€
• Insurance, 6 month Carte Brun 100€
• "Help" fee 21€
For sure we got ripped off but also we got off lightly compared to what other people have paid in the past. The insurance alone probably saved us at least a few fines on the way to St Louis.

13) Bear in mind we avoided all the smaller scams (parking fees etc...) and bar one of our mates getting his hat nicked and me getting my pocket felt (a kid stole my ferry ticket receipt HA HA HA), we were finally let out of the Blue Gates in Senegal side at approx 8pm (dark by now) having started the process at 3pm (way too late). We then had a 120km drive in the dark to St Louis.....It was dark and the crowd was intimidating but we stuck together and got through it.

What would we do different next time / advice we would offer:
• Go to Diama for sure - but we cut it too fine with the rains - check the weather situation in advance - ideally with Zebrabar people.
• Catch the earliest ferry - we made a bad choice because of the closed road to Diama and so ended up on the last ferry (fools)
• Unless you speak absolutely fluent French and insist on speaking with the Chefs at each post and probably use a line along the lines of reporting them when you get to Dakar, it is better to work with the "help" - I sensed that no one wants to rock the boat at Rosso so this is probably a futile strategy - so agree a price for the lot before you start and ONLY pay it when you get THROUGH the gates.
• You do hold some power and its your cash they want - withhold it for as long as you can - if you can go as a group it helps.
• You dont have to worry about your documents going missing as you can stick with the paper chain - just hold your nerve and keep your eyes peeled
• Dont do what one of the people in our group did (a traveler we met along the way) and tell them that you are "scared", this helps transfer power to them and probably a racking up of more fees on the "scam meter"
• Going there with a "I am going to not pay a single bribe" attitude is probably going to rock the boat. Softly, softly works best.
All in all - Rosso does exactly what it says on the tin! Its a sorry looking, poor place, full of people trying to make a quick buck. It looks like one or two main gangs hold control and they work with the officials - I am not sure how you could change this.

Its a real shame as Senegal is a nice country and this is "introduction" is just a let down which you quickly get over, especially over a bottle of wine discussing the revenge scenarios you might employ should you ever pass by on the river in an "Apocolypse Now" style gun boat and an unlimited amount of ammunition !! ;-)


Enjoy it and good luck !!

Nick & Vicki
Stonehenge to Cape Town 2010/11
www.langebaan-sunset.com
 
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Wooohhhooooo!!! I have my visas for Mauritania and Morocco. Will have my passport back on Thursday and probably hit the road again on Sat/Sun.  :ricky:
 
Spoke to Lybia embassy today again. They said we can get tourist visa's for Lybia, and we do not need escort. we do need invitation letter from hotel and some emigration letter you can get at the consulate in Tunis. We will get ours in Alexandria.

strongs  :thumleft:
 
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