SAMS - Three Nations Dog Tour in Easter 2012 - SA, Mozambique & Swaziland

[Bomber11]

      SAMS - Three Nations Dog Tour in Easter 2012 -  South Africa, Mozambique and Swaziland
Just after midday on Thursday the Wild Dogs from last year's Lesotho trip met at Que Sera to start our Easter adventure. The gang's ages ranged between 54 and 25 years:
(A little refreshment before we tackled the route to Swaziland)

                                            Husamarine KTM 950 Adv
                                            Zugger BMW 1150 Adv
                                            Dakka BMW 1200 Adv
                                            Bomber11    BMW 1200 Adv
                                            Ronsard    BMW 650 Dakar
                                            Bushboy      BMW 1200 Adv
Our afternoons objective was to travel by tar via Delmas, Leandra, Trichardt, Bethal, Ermelo, Amsterdam, Nerston Border Post and then on to Mantenga Lodge in the Swaziland Happy Valley between Mbabane and Manzini.  We needed to beat the border post closing time of 18h00, sleep over in Swaziland then start all bright and early for our off-road route to Kosi Bay.
Unfortunately, a forty minute delay in amongst a few annoying Stop and Go road works forced us to only arrive at the Nerston border at 17h30.
(Waiting along the road for the youngsters to catch up after the Stop and Goes. The plastic packet on Bushboy’s bike which contained his casual shoes will feature later in the report.)

Fifteen minutes later our passports were stamped and we were on our way with darkness creeping in fast. Fortunately Husamarine’s faith in his GPS served us well as be climbed and descended into the Mountain Kingdom. The permanent orange headlight protectors are not recommended for improved vision in total darkness. The winding tar road was in fair condition but every now and then the surface tar disappeared to be replaced by huge pothole sections of dirt usually on a blind downhill bends or a tricky off camber corner.
(We arrived safely at Mantenga Lodge to enjoy well deserved refreshments.)

Went over to the Happy Valley Casino for some dinner and to visit my old school buddy Wayne Thomson.
(Bonding session with Thommo)

 

[Brandt]

Sub

 

[W1P30UT]

Subscribe  :thumleft: Looks like fun :ricky:

 

[Bomber11]

Day 2
Early rise with a breakfast at Mantenga Lodge was just the perfect start to an eventful day ahead. We headed towards Matsupa and within a few kilometres turned off the dreaded tar and started the much anticipated gravel roads.
(Leg stretch on one of many low-level bridges with rivers flowing)

About sixty km’s further down the scenic road we came across another low-level bridge and decided to stop in the middle for a smoke break as we hadn’t seen any vehicle on the roads already travelled.  Suddenly from around the corner and heading in our direction at high speed was a light pickup with loads of chicken being transported in crates. When the driver finally registered that the bridge in front was occupied by stationery bikes it was almost too late, he braked hard but at the speed he was travelling he was only able to stop about two foot from Bushboys bike. Not only was the driver and passengers big-eyed but also all of us standing on the bridge with visions of at least one bike going for a swim.
(Van heading towards the low level bridge)

(A relieved Bushboy moving his bike out of harm’s way)

 

[Bomber11]

We headed off towards Nsoko where we stopped for those low on fuel and decided to down a few beers prior to tackling Cecil Mack’s Pass.
(Bikes and Beers are very welcome but also pull the crowds)

By all knowledge, Cecil Mack’s Pass is not an official border post and therefore entry through it into South Africa is non-existent but by using the pass we could easily cut about 140km off the route to Kosi Bay where an afternoons spear-fishing for supper loomed before us. On the gravel road heading to the ‘Pass’, we were stopped by two XT riders and pillions returning from the ‘Border’. They advised us that the pass was closed off with huge rocks barricading the route. As we were so close to the border, we decided to check the post out for ourselves. Saw the rocks, moved one out of the way and proceeded to the second row of rocks when some punter in a T-shirt and sandals came running beside us shouted for us to stop. After a few minutes a second ‘guard’ appeared with no shirt but camo pants. After another round of heated persuasion, their so called ‘Commander’ appeared also in casual kit who advised us that no entry was permitted as their orders were to control the pass by restricting the movement of cattle. Reluctantly we decided to turn around but not before we kindly and diplomatically told them their fortunes and thanked them whole heartedly for stuffing up our days ride. I genuinely believe that those bikers on the XT’s actually woke those lazy lot up and therefore they were still walking around in the area when we arrived which made them available to harass us quicker than usual. So close yet so far!
We therefore had to head down to Golela border post, briefly along the N2 then past the picturesque Jozini Dam and wall.  Jozini is a good example of a typical African town where everything is very untidy and chaotic with taxis everywhere on the busy main road and hundreds of roadside stores which seem to sell identical goods. We stopped in Emangusi to fill up with fuel and met up with Amelis who accepted an eleventh hour call-up to join us on the trip as a backup vehicle.
(Fuel stop, chicken and alcohol for supper in Emangusi)

He advised us of the lack of facilities at our overnight accommodation but fortunately we were able to purchase some frozen chicken and alcohol for our evening supper as it was already too late for the promised spear- fishing.
(Relaxing around the fire with friends after an eventful day)

 

[Bomber11]

Day 3
The locals advised us that the Kosi Bay border post on the Friday morning of the long weekend was so busy that the queue extended back 7km’s. Not needing any further persuasion, we gladly decided to get up early to arrive at the post by 5am.
(Arriving in the dark at the border post)

(Sunrise and a new challenge lay before us)

(Reducing tyre pressure for thick sand)

(Husamarine filling up his liquid reserves this time)

To our disbelief, the customs officials advised us that the border post will only opens at 8am and I quote as follows: “to enable us to provide the customer with a better service”! WTF. So there we were, all dressed up and nowhere to go as we waited the additional two hours for the customs officials to finally allow us to enter Mozambique.(real ‘Service’ orientated department)
(The long wait)

Finally at 9h35 we were able to tackle the feared sand on the road past Ponta do Ouro to Bela Vista. Immediately the sand was thick and after a few offs on our big BMW’s, we steadily grew in confidence and were able to conquer the sand demons with relative ease.
(Some sand action)

 

[Bomber11]

(Some more sand action)

 

[Bomber11]

(Finally on firmer ground, a well deserved break)

(A section of ‘Tar’ road on the way to Bela Vista)

At Bela Vista there are two routes that are available, one via Boane to Maputo is approximately 105km’s while the other to Catembe is 49km’s but also includes a ferry trip across the river to Maputo. Well the decision was made easy once Bushboy stated with some conviction that every bike should travel by ferry at least once in its lifetime. After a few short kilo’s we all realised that the 49km’s to the ferry was going to be anything but fun. The road is easily in the worst condition imaginable and probably not maintained since the war in the early 80’s.
(The picture doesn’t do justice to the extreme condition of the road)

I refer to it as the ‘road of bones’ as every part of your body from your teeth to your left small toe-nail was rattled continually for 49km’s.  The bodies and the bikes took a serious pounding with my handlebars dropping 15mm closer to the tank due to the abuse handed down by the diabolical road condition. We all were very relieved when those 49 long kilo’s were finally over as the Maputo skyline came into view.
(Relief after ‘the road of bones’)

 

[Bomber11]

(Waiting to board the ferry in a typical African environment)

(On board with cars, people and bikes)

 

[Bomber11]

After riding our bikes off the ferry amongst hundreds of people waiting to board, we headed along the beach side coastal road to our lunch destination of Costa do Sol.
(Beautiful view of the palm and sea on the coastal road)

(Well deserved Seafood platters at Costa do Sol)

After our stomachs were filled by the seafood platters and quite a few Doshem ( 2M)beers, we headed north on the sandy extension of the coastal road towards our days final destination of the Blue Anchor which was about 56km’s from Maputo.
(The sandy tracks were quite a challenge after the beers and prawns)

The Blue Anchor is run by a couple of charming ex Kenyan white farmers with the rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant in excellent condition. We spent a lot of time in the pool, then moving into the bar to hand out ‘fines’ for the day’s misdemeanours.
(Happy faces after a long day out)

 

[Bushboy]

Graet RR ! Come on where is the rest........????????????? :ricky:

 

[Bomber11]

Day 4
Our planned route for the day included a fair amount of tar road back past Maputo, through Boane and via Namaacha border post before entering Swaziland again.
(Early morning bike preparation for the day ahead)

The highway to Maputo is excellent but gets increasingly busy when passing the outskirts of Maputo. While negotiating the heavy Sunday morning traffic, never stand-up on your foot-pegs as the local traffic cops found it necessary to stop two of us and asked to see our driver licences. They advised the cops that the reason for standing was to get a better look at their impressive sports stadium on the left side of the road. That obviously did the trick and we were allowed to proceed into the unexpected heavy traffic. One of the amazing observations while weaving through the many cars, bakkies, taxis, trucks, bicycles and pedestrians was that the stalls along both sides of the road seem to cater mostly for the local. (Cashew nuts, fruit, alcohol, cigarettes, T-shirts and caps but also an astonishing amount of mattresses – probably the reason for so many kids). The traffic congestion seemed too gradually ease as we rode the remaining 38km’s to Boane.
(A typical petrol Station in rural Mozambique and Swaziland)

We stopped at the first local pub open on a Sunday and ordered as many Doshem beers that the remaining currency available among us could buy. They certainly quenched our thirsts after that hectic ride through traffic in Maputo.
(A relaxed Sunday in the war scarred town)

The tar road between Boane and the border town of Namaacha was top notch, so we decided on a quick breather at a small general dealer and subsequently bought the many local children some sweets. (My good deed for a while)
(Nothing is easy in a small town)

 

[Bomber11]

The Customs buildings at the Namaacha border post were new and the officials quickly stamped the passports to send us on our way into Swaziland again. Some tar and some dirt before we hit Manzini.
(Traffic along the way)

(The tar)

(The Dirt)

(A troop of satisfied dogs on the main highway to Mbabane nearing the Happy Valley at the end of the forth day in the saddle)

(Sundowner on the deck at Mantenga Lodge overlooking some of the Mountain Kingdom)

(Evening braai with wonderful hosts Wayne and Barbara)

 

[Husamarine]

Great photos there Bomber - makes you want to get back on the bike and do another trip asap!

Just don't venture into the discussions we had after the trip - might cause a war......... ;D

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

Looks like a jol indeed.

8)

 

[onmybike]

sub to read when time

 

[KTM11]

Awesome  :thumleft:

Thanks for the RR, always great to get an idea of what the route looks like.

We want to do the trip from Kosi Border to Maputo later in the year also crossing on the Catembe ferry - that sand looks like fun  :ricky:-

Last year we did the same route as you guys but from Swaziland side to Blue Anchor, that traffic around Maputo is crazy, but the Blue Anchor was a really nice place to stay, but we stayed away from the sandy road heading to Costa Da Sol and instead went on the tar because some of the guys with us had no sand riding experience...

I think the route from Kosi to Maputo should give them all the experience they need this year 

 

[Gravelmad]

Great Stuff !!!!!  8) The envy of all....

 

[Jakkals]

Nice RR and foto's, thanks for sharing  :thumleft:

Ek like Moz kwaai en het al 'n paar bike trips daar gedoen dus was dit vir my lekker om myself in te leef op julle foto's.

Ek was ook gelukig om 'n botel peri peri sous te kon kry by Costa de Sol toe ek twee weke terug 'n bike trip deur Moz gedoen het.

Moz is moer lekker mens moet net die mense se geardheid en maniere verstaan dan loop alles lekker.

 

[Bomber11]

Day 5
Bikes all ready to go after the perfect early morning breakfast at the Lodge. We followed the highway to Mbabane where we turned right and headed off on the MR1 North to the Josefsdal border post. The GPS showed a more scenic route via the Maguga Dam to Piggs Peak where we stopped for fuel before crossing into South Africa.
(Bikes all ready to leave for home)

(The Mountain Kingdom at its best)

(Stretch of the legs at Maguga Dam wall)

The 10km’s or so from Piggs Peak too the mining town of Bulembu is a well used gravel road which is extremely interesting as the road meanders into the mountains and is a reasonable test for rider and machine. The final few kilometres to the Josefsdal border post, on the Swaziland side, is far steeper yet nice to ride.  Unfortunately the road on the South African side has been tarred all the way to Barberton, so after approximately 2 km’s on the blackstuff  we turned off towards Oshoek. This gravel road is perfect for D/S bikes as it hugs the contours of the mountains and valleys with many turns, cutbacks and beautiful scenery. The road eventually passes through the old ghost mining town of Ekulindeni. (No idea what it was called before Sipho changed the name)

The gravel soon turns to tar after leaving the’ Ghost Town’ with many road works in progress all the way to Elukwatini which was similarly chaotic and identical to any of the dozen busy towns we had passed through during the last 5 days. Then onto Badplaas, through Carolina and then joining the heavy traffic on the N4 to Pretoria with a fuel sucking galeforce wind blowing directly from front for good measures.
(Fond goodbyes on the N4  before heading home)

Summary to follow shortly.