Southern Namibia Ride

[Ian in Great Brak River]

This ride report is looong overdue as the trip was done last year in May and I will not attempt any weak excuses ... Allen I and I had done less than the normal planning for any trip as I was out the country for most of it ... basically good old Skype came to the rescue! Allen needed a bike for starters and was quick to find an AT XRV 750 that was ready to roll from the off with good panniers, tank bag and pillion bag included in the sale.

The general route was to Namibia, we had big plans to get to Upupa Falls, from Great Brak via Sutherland as we wanted to see Saturn's rings that are visible in our winter months, but I'm getting ahead of myself here...

He drove down from Pretoria, with daughter as pillion ... sowing the seeds for future rides no doubt.

As always there nothing quite like the start of a ride, a long ride, any ride for that matter ... as we all know reality stands still and in effect nothing else matters at that moment.

Nothing quite like a Southern Cape sunset...

Even set up the new RIBZZ stretcher and slept on the balcony.

So the next morning we hit the road, going over the Swartberg Pass as he had not been to the other side of it before, for that matter he's never been out the country so many new things to experience ... like getting a passport too.

The weather was great, the pass was quiet, we're headed for Prins Albert.

We've known each other since Grade 1, grew up in the same town, 2 km's apart, those days Yamaha RD 50's and Honda SS 50's (with double valve springs to help it get to 110 kph) ruled the roost. If you had klomp geld (from working at the Leba Theater for 56c an hour) you got a DT 175 ... anyway, where was I ..?  Sutherland I believe ...

Sutherland, via Merweville where the roads were particularly shitty last year.

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

We have always had bikes as stated above, one oke in the brat pack even got hold of an XT 500 ... man alive that was a machine ! But, unbelievably, we did not do much gravel road riding in those days considering the area we grew up in so when 50 comes along and life has taken on new challenges, one has to re-learn the basics, the subtleties and the reflexes need to be honed once again. I was ahead, and waited the customery 30 mins with no Allen. Just as I was about to turn back he showed up, slightly the moer in with himself but in great spirits nevertheless.

A fully loaded XRV can be bloody heavy when on it's ear in soft sand. This was a 3 week trip after all ... want to see the Kunene River up there ...

Kambrokind Guest House was great as usual, Jurg did his magic trick with his 4 telescopes and lo and behold there it was so yes I can confirm, Saturn has rings .. plenty of them too for that matter.

It's cold the next morning, it's real early and we are keen to hit the road. In my solo ride to Nam two years ago I also stayed in Sutherland and also planned the same route Calvinia - Loeriesfontein - Springfontein - Steinkop - to Noordoever but it's 700 odd km's ... so we decide to slab it from Calvinia rather.

Namibia  ... Ah, what a place, it's pure sustenance for the soul. So another first for Al, the Orange or Gariep to be crossed.

We're headed for Felix Unite's camp and that would prove to be very fortuitous indeed ... talk about a blast from the past! Just as we arrive at the newly built reception centre that had burnt down and was busy being repaired the last time I was here, I had hardly gotten my helmet off when my name is shouted out from a nearby 4x4 camp site. WTH ? Who knows that we're here ?

Turns out it's David and Sonja Welsh from CT, we were in the SAAF at Ysterplaat 100 years ago ('82 - '83) and have not seem one another since... how about that for a small world indeed!

This time they're in their Mitsubishi but more often it's like this and it certainly suits them. I envy folks who can just shut up shop, put the phone in answering machine and go ...  

We set up camp right there, good food and plenty catch up follows.

After a great night in good company we're off early and the first taste of good Namib gravel for both bikes in a long time.

I have never seen him so at peace with a place before ... this was not just a ride to Nam any longer but a journey.

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

There has been thousands of photo's posted of this stretch past the Orange and on to Rosh Pinah so bear with me.

We turned right onto the D463 and the left onto the D459, this proved to be very sandy with plenty dry river beds to cross.

Stand Up, Look Up, Open Up was to become a steep learning curve ... but I had made the fatal mistake of not lowering the tyre pressures before this stretch.

It really is a stunning piece of real estate out here...

So once again I'm ahead, having stupidly crossed over this stream then stopped to wait and wait ... in the sun for 30 mins ... and no Allen...?

Turn back, through the stream for the second crossing of three ...

Once again Al comes into view just as I make it over to the other side.

Luckily it's only plastic that's broken!

He just drifted too close to the right into the real soft stuff.

To recap were on a 5000km trip and this was what we started with from a screen point of view.  He went straight through it with his left shoulder. Again TG no injuries !

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

I felt really bad because I had been here before, knew what to expect from the conditions and did not do the correct preparations ... how could I be so bloody stupid ? I KNOW that we were still on tar tyre pressures and this is far from tar, now where the hell are we going to find a 2004 XRV screen in Namibia? To his credit Al took it pretty well and of course noticed a world of difference when we deflated the front T63 to 1.5 bar !!

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

Tonight's destination is Aus Vista and it's another great spot ...

... he's on the left, I'm on the right...

... and it's busy.

Would not want to be here in a downpour as a big stream runs through it.

The next morning whilst filling up with fuel we run into Noeline T on her Dakar on a long trip North, hope all's well with her.

This is what we are here for ... wide open spaces ...

We have a blast here, no traffic, good roads ... lekker riding.

Another first for Al, newly graded roads, softer then it looks but no problem now we down to 1.5 bar up front !

This is Quiver Tree country, part of the Aloe family and endangered.

This shot is so synonymous with Namibia.

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

It was now time for an injury picked up whilst in Prins Albert for our lunch stop on day 1 to show it's unpleasant face ... little did I know it but I had partially torn a tendon and had been taking anti inflammatories for 5 days and did lots of one hand riding when possible as the damn thing was lekker eina. Some street kid was hassling us for cash as we were about to leave, so I jumped on the bike ... and nearly dropped the bloody thing. It went over partially and in the attempt to haul it back up onto an even keel I could hear the damn tendon popping ... shit what a weird feeling that was and bloody lucky it was not torn through.

So we were on our way to Solitair and another fortuitous encounter awaits ... I will be away from this RR for a few days but suffice to say the XRV gets a face lift ... Namibia style !!

The old ...

...and the new.

 

[subie]

Sien uit na die res. :thumleft:
Ek was ook nou met my laaste run Bray toe te lui om te stop en my T63 voor afteblaas van 2.3bar na ook so
1.5 bar  vir die sandpaaie daar. Wanneer n mens so "gemaklik" raak is jou skade en val nie ver nie  :eek7:

 

[Bashplate]

Awesome thanks,  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
:sip: :happy1:

 

[ALLEN I]

well what can i say.this trip we done was an adventure part from tasting the sand twice,must say tastes the same as here agree with ian took long enough to do this report but hey guys we've done another one since old ian okay i no his pushing the years but i no u guys out there will be interested about the other one as well. not so heavy as Namibia but also one bloody good trip

 

[Chrisl]

Nie alweer nog n Namibia RR nie? :drif: :drif: :drif:










Cannot wait for the rest Ian. :thumleft:

 

[RobCrouch]

Nie alweer nog n Namibia RR nie? :drif: :drif: :drif:
Cannot wait for the rest Ian. :thumleft:

Can one have enough?  :biggrin:  :thumleft:

 

[COLES]

ONE CANNOT DESCRIBE THE BEAUTY UNTILL U HAVE BEEN THERE GREAT PHOTO,S TRULY GREAT RIDE

WELL DONE FELLOWS

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

Thanks for the comments guys, I hope to do some more tonight before I need to leave home for a week.

Ja ChrisL, remember we asked you about East Nam roads, Gobabis etc ? ... still unfinished business in Nam for Al and I.

8)

 

[Wolzac]

:sip:

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

I still have some time before I have to sit my ass down in an airplane so ...

We somehow miss the D707 ... yes, I know it's the small gate on the left ... or that's what I'm looking out for and don't see no gate on the left ... perhaps 2 minutes on either GPS earlier in the day would have sorted that particular problem out but all things considered perhaps that D is best left for the next trip.

Betta pops up, nog 'n lekker plekkie in Suid Namibia.

Life sets it's own pace here ... some take it nice 'n slow, others even slower ... perhaps we can learn something from this ?

I don't really have to mention that it's hot and dry ... so I woun't.

We return to the C27 to Solitaire for the night ...

... it needs to be said that we are taking this slow averaging about 90kph as it's about the ride and not the destination ...

... or it was because this lekker spot shows up just at the right time ...

Le Mirage Desert Lodge and Spa is just what we need ... Solitaire can wait.

This is a seriously nice spot and I will bring my wife Charlotte out here on one of our next trips.

I have always wanted to take a balloon flight so this will be where it will be next time round.

Allen is also President of the Intruders, a W TVL club started way back in the early 80s and I am one of the First 9, so the colours need to be remembered.

After a very sociable evening with a set menu we hit the road again, bright and early ...

Somehow we get our wires crossed about Solitaire fuel station being dry, we fill up the 7lt bladder near Sesriem and push on.

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

Solitaire was supposed to be last nights camp site .. with it's unbelievably cold swimming pool considering the 33'C heat ...

But this stop was not about Apple Pie or the most photographed Suzbox frame on the planet ...

... or interesting discussions with our German tourists to Africa who could not believe that we had just about every item on the bikes that they had in 2 tonnes of 4x4 - extra fuel capacity, water, food, tools, compressor, tow rope, sleeping bag, stretcher, gas stove, head lamps, braai grid etc.

No, whilst we did not know it this stop was to have plenty good fortune for us ... and that amazing Namibian ability to sort out all the problems us stupid tourists show up with.

Hardly had we stopped when 3 guys come over and immediately notice the screenless AT.

Pierre, Vlakhaas and the big dude van der Merwe are immediately on the phone to someone somewhere, who knows someone else somewhere else, who calls a third guy who just so happens to have an original XRV screen in Windhoek that he's willing to part with ... not just that but Mike the father of Pierre knows a 4th oke who's driving to Swakop the next day and will gladly deliver it ... can you bloody believe it !! Oh, and he'll take a case of beer as payment when next we're in Windhoek ... we are astounded and can only nod in appreciation. What a country and what great people they are ! Thanks guys.

So we hit the road, the real shitty C14 ... to Walvis and Swakop.

These are long dusty roads with plenty traffic ... lots of adventure tour bus traffic.

This is the Dorob ...

... and in the Kuiseb pass ...

...it's moerse warm !!

And just like that we're on tar, the temperature drops 15'C , it becomes hazy and large dunes with lots of people on it appear.

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

These are some serious dunes with clear signs of shifting sands.

I'll be honest and say we did not spend much time in Walvis ... which at least deserves a quick drive through, which we do.

We push on to Swakop for the night ... or two.

To think I have spent most of my productive life at sea, allbeit on private sail boats but this is one piece of water I have never had the urge to get close too.

With no plans other than we're staying here somewhere for the night we find Meike's Guesthouse, and all she has available is the caretakers cottage but he's away ... so we pull in there after some concerted convincing in German on our behalf. Turns out to be a great place to stay.

We chill out for two days and repair shit, like RAM mounts, starter buttons, flicker bulbs, chains that need lubing, beer that needs drinking, knees that need a break from that damn C14 !

We also witness the life blood of the coastal region, the nightly fog that coats everything with precious moisture.

We see the sights, eats lots of sea food and generally remember to be happy tourists.

Everything has a story as does this pier... another best mate, school friend and neighbour of mine in Great Brak was part of the team that did the underwater construction here in the mid 80's when his dad was a consulting engineer on the build project. Always wanted to see where he nearly died from being trapped underwater but luckily he made it out.  

If I had to live in Nam it would be in Swakop ...

... but the water is bliksems cold !

Again, much has been written on this fine forum about Swakop and it's German colonial feel.

 

[stan1975]

Sub  :sip:

 

[cloudgazer]

:thumleft:
great.
keep it coming.

 

[weskusklong]

Hierdie RR gaan nog my lewe verkort, ek is nog besig om sand en kettie klippe uit my sak te haal van my Namibia trip, dan moet ek nou hier lees.
Pragtig.
Daai C14 is nou nog erger.