Cyclops
Pack Dog
Day 14 Thursday 19 Luangwa Bridge to Chipata
Next morning it was up early, to break camp and go and settle the bill.
Now, I usually inquire as to the costs of beer and wine when I arrive at an over- night stop, but for some reason this time I did not. The ever cheerful barman presents me with the bill for one nights camping, a salad, a plate of fries and our bar bill. Seventy two US dollars! FFS. Accomodation was $20, quite normal, the food $10, pretty reasonable considering the location, but $42 for the beer and wine, that was ridiculous! We were thirsty yes, but didn’t have more than 4 or 5 drinks each (maybe I had a few more). On questioning the barman, he said this was quite normal as the owner jacks up the bar prices , and this is where he makes his money!
Beware fellow travellers using this place to stay over. It is a must as the location is wonderful, the service is great, but the camping is basic and the bar prices extortionist.
After that shock to the system and substantial emptying of the wallet, we were off, destination Chipata. We crossed the suspension bridge over the Luangwa River taking one last look at the river and were on our way. Lyn and I both made a mental note that the South Luangwa National Park, through which this river flows is another bucket list item. It is wild here.
I am glad that we made the decision to break the journey between Lusaka and Chipata as once we left Luangwa, the road really deteriorated with lots of potholes, and our average speed dropped considerably.
More villages, a fuel stop and break for a cream cracker.
Our intended stop over was at Mama Rula’s, a well known place run by a South African family on the outskirts of Chipata.
However, just before we got to Chipata, and doing about 90 kms / hour we went round a slight bend to be faced with the widest pothole I had seen. It stretched from the extreme left side of the road all the way to the right, like someone had dug a ditch across the road. There was just no way to avoid it.
Now, the brakes on the GS are superb, but slowing 450 kgs of bike, luggage and riders in the space available was just not going to happen. White knuckled, wide eyed, and with the ABS chirping away, we hit the ditch with a thud. Thankfully the ditch was not too wide and we got over unscathed. A quick check to see that the rims and tyres were ok, we then proceeded to Mama Rula’s.
Arriving at Mama Rula’s
We set up camp on a nice piece of grass within easy distance of the bar/restaurant and ablutions.
Off to the pub for a couple of Mosi lagers and tonight we were going to eat at the restaurant. After our stay at Bridge Camp, I most definitely checked the bar prices before indulging. What a surprise, the beer and wine was very reasonably priced, as was the food, and I had no worries about how much I was going to drink that night.
The pub and restaurant at Mama Rula’s
Next morning it was up early, to break camp and go and settle the bill.
Now, I usually inquire as to the costs of beer and wine when I arrive at an over- night stop, but for some reason this time I did not. The ever cheerful barman presents me with the bill for one nights camping, a salad, a plate of fries and our bar bill. Seventy two US dollars! FFS. Accomodation was $20, quite normal, the food $10, pretty reasonable considering the location, but $42 for the beer and wine, that was ridiculous! We were thirsty yes, but didn’t have more than 4 or 5 drinks each (maybe I had a few more). On questioning the barman, he said this was quite normal as the owner jacks up the bar prices , and this is where he makes his money!
Beware fellow travellers using this place to stay over. It is a must as the location is wonderful, the service is great, but the camping is basic and the bar prices extortionist.
After that shock to the system and substantial emptying of the wallet, we were off, destination Chipata. We crossed the suspension bridge over the Luangwa River taking one last look at the river and were on our way. Lyn and I both made a mental note that the South Luangwa National Park, through which this river flows is another bucket list item. It is wild here.
I am glad that we made the decision to break the journey between Lusaka and Chipata as once we left Luangwa, the road really deteriorated with lots of potholes, and our average speed dropped considerably.
More villages, a fuel stop and break for a cream cracker.
Our intended stop over was at Mama Rula’s, a well known place run by a South African family on the outskirts of Chipata.
However, just before we got to Chipata, and doing about 90 kms / hour we went round a slight bend to be faced with the widest pothole I had seen. It stretched from the extreme left side of the road all the way to the right, like someone had dug a ditch across the road. There was just no way to avoid it.
Now, the brakes on the GS are superb, but slowing 450 kgs of bike, luggage and riders in the space available was just not going to happen. White knuckled, wide eyed, and with the ABS chirping away, we hit the ditch with a thud. Thankfully the ditch was not too wide and we got over unscathed. A quick check to see that the rims and tyres were ok, we then proceeded to Mama Rula’s.
Arriving at Mama Rula’s
We set up camp on a nice piece of grass within easy distance of the bar/restaurant and ablutions.
Off to the pub for a couple of Mosi lagers and tonight we were going to eat at the restaurant. After our stay at Bridge Camp, I most definitely checked the bar prices before indulging. What a surprise, the beer and wine was very reasonably priced, as was the food, and I had no worries about how much I was going to drink that night.
The pub and restaurant at Mama Rula’s
