It took us a while to get out of the city and into the country, dodging the pedestrians and taxis.
The memories of the previous evening started to fade, but I was still pissed about the loss of my badge. Anyway, I wasn’t going to let it spoil the day and the remainder of our trip.
The roads were good, the weather excellent and the scenery stunning.
On the way to the border at Zobwe, we came across more of the blue bags filled with charcoal. I couldn’t help think that the commercial plantations used for paper production in South Africa are based on a sustainable future and the trees cut down for the production of today’s paper have been replaced with thousands of saplings to be used for the paper requirements of future generations.
There was no such evidence of sustainable charcoal production here in Malawi and one wonders how long this source of energy and the business prospects associated with it will last.
The border connecting Malawi to Mozambique at Zobwe is quite interesting in that there is about 15 kms of no mans land between the two border posts and I kept on wondering if somehow I had managed to take a wrong turn somewhere.
I had nothing to fear as the Mozambiquan buildings soon appeared in the distance, and we were soon through the border with no hassles at all. Another border post ticked off the list without a problem.
I had also been told that the road from Zobwe to Tete was absolutely trashed and that we could look forward to a good 3 to 4 hour journey to cover the shortish distance of 125 kms on the EN103. Well, the Chinese had been at it again and had built a beautiful new road, and before we had even needed to stop for a break, were entering the outskirts of Tete.
The giant suspension bridge crossing the Zambezi River loomed ahead of us.
Crossing the bridge we were now in the commercial section of the town.
Tete was one of the towns that we had decided needed to be avoided, but its location put it mid way between Blantyre and Harare with no other place to stay on this stretch, and with two border crossings that could be problematic and time consuming. We felt that if we could find something half decent to stay at a reasonable price we would stay in Tete, otherwise plan B was to head to Songa on the shores of Caborra Bassa and stay at Ugezi Tiger Lodge, but this was a further 153 km to the north away and we were very hot and tired. It also meant adding another 153 kms to the journey the next day to get back to the Tete – Zimbabwe road.
After a bit of driving around in Tete we were told about a place called Sintropel, which was a village built to accommodate primarily South African workers working on the many mining projects in the area.
We decided that it would be fine for one night and booked in, although it did look a bit like a telly tubby village with its igloo shaped chalets and gaudy paint job, but its location on the banks of the Zambezi was great.
Time to settle in, get some beer and relax by the river.
However, we were told that the owners of the establishment were Muslim, and that no alcohol was sold on the premises. Damn!!
But they had no problem with sending a runner into town to purchase some supplies at no extra cost. What service. I was really hot and thirsty so decided to order eight regular 2M beers and a bottle of wine for Lyn. Half an hour later, the runner appeared with said refreshments....except that the beers were 500ml bottles.
After a long day, 8 regular beers is no problem, but eight 500 ml’s is a tall order. Time to start drinking.
We had some meat with us that we had bought in Blantyre and looked for a place to braai it. There were no braais to be found and there were no cooking facilities in the room, but there was a quite decent looking restaurant on the premises. Maybe they could cook it for us.
Better still, they told me that they had a braai out back where they cooked the chicken and steak for the restaurant and we were welcome to throw our meat on there as long as it was not Pork. Bargain!
We were soon braaing our steak and sausages, although, the braai and the surroundings certainly did not look the most hygienic.
Once ready, we took our plate of food into the restaurant, found a table and sat down. The waiter came running up and told us that we could not eat in the restaurant as I had a beer in my hand and Lyn had a glass of wine. Damn... again!
I said I was not prepared to eat my supper without a beer and they said they were not allowed to have anyone consuming alcohol in the restaurant. Stalemate.
After some debate, they kindly agreed to let us eat outside, and promptly set up a table for us. Another bargain was that they had also set up a projector to screen the football world cup match that was currently being played.
We ordered a salad (the restaurant looked decent enough to risk this) and sat down to enjoy our meal.
The next day, we were both suffering from the runs and concluded that although the restaurant was clean enough, we were sure that the water used to wash the salad, came straight out of the Zambezi River, with all its pollutants and microbes. Big mistake.
Day 23, Saturday 28 Tete, Mozambique to Harare, Zimbabwe
Today was to be a big day as we had another border post to conquer, but there was also the threat of rebel activity in the area. We left early, and prepared ourselves for a bad piece of road to Changara. This again had been rebuilt by the Chinese and we were soon cruising along a magnificent black top on our way to Nyamapanda in Zimbabwe.
At the intersection with the Chimoio road at Changara, we came across this newly built toll station to becommissioned. We learned the next day that it had been shot up by rebels the day before. Thankfully ignorant at the time of this, we carried on blissfully unaware that rebels could still be in the area. Sometimes it is better to be unaware.
