Day8: N9 through Willowmore and Uniondale, the R339 through Uniondale Poort, Avontuur, Prince Alfred's pass, de Vlugt to Knysna. From there on the Phantom pass to Karatara.
We got up the morning, had an excellent breakfast, a last chat to Zorb and Judy just to reaffirm what cool people they really are, got ready, packed and were on our way. I sprung a slow puncture on the backwheel (with the amount of k's and the weight on the back wheel I'm not surprised. The rear tyre got a little bit of a beating. Shallow cuts and general evidence of a slightly 'harder than road' life ...
So I stopped at the local hardware shop and got me some 'tyre weld' - its been better (slower) since. Didn't really want to do that, but there wasn't a puncture that I could see. Ah well.
Nothing much happened 'till Aberdeen where I quickly did a tyre pressure check (yip, I got a little digital pressure gauge before the trip but valiantly forgot it at home)
Lots of this type of scenery - it is a little unfair towards this area, as it is amazing scenery, but we were looking forward to some garden route and some gravel mountain pass:
We took a quick break at the Beervlei Dam (well, it was just the wall - wasn't really water on the other side to speak of...)
From there on to Willowmore where they didn't have unleaded :shock:
So I put in 1 1/2 liter to give us a little extra range, snapped some photos and were off.
These three came to beg, or at least that's what they intended before they met their nemeses in the form of my lovely pillion. Before they knew it they were posing for a photo. Diabolical money making plan thwarted :twisted:
We were kinda wondering about this:
we also bumped into two other beemer riders - two friends with a R1200RT and a 1150GS. They were just on their way back from Leshoto.
We could also see the scenery change a little - more green and becoming a little softer already. I think the couple of 'Poorte' that we went through helped as well.
"As die skraal wind waai oor nguni bosse op die pad buite Uniondale"
We didn't have a 'skraal wind' and I don't know what a 'nguni bos' looked like, but we were surely 'op die pad buite Uniondale':
I like the way the town starts to show a little more of itself as you come down, winding into town.
We got money from an ATM next to this :
I was wondering, this could just be a very promising enterprise - Make the unsuspecting clients like your exotic imported miniature cars, loan them the money to buy it and then use the third arm(s) of your business to sort out some issues if your repayments become, shall we say, 'less regular'.
The Don dunnot alika to be ay leetle uhh irregular, so he shalla we say, maka the problem go away. Capiche ?
We just quietly walked back to our bike and headed down the road. See ? It's not only Ewan and Charlie that end up with the possibility with meeting 'The Family' ... :shock:
We got some petrol at the other side of town (little caravan jobbie next to 3 pumps - you know the place)
Here I got a pleasant surprise: Sauerkraut (heavily loaded and two up) got (with adding that 1 1/2 liters from Willowmore) 17km/l while trying to keep him at 140 where I could (and it was safe). I thought that was purty damn good...
Maybe it was due to the fact that we were descending ?
The owner came from across the road (he's a biker too - long distance scratcher - he's taken his Fireblade from Uniondale to Cape Town in a day to do the toyrun, just to head back again the afternoon. Don't want to think about the speeds that they do). Very nice guy, so we ended up leaving about 15 minutes later with his well wishes. (He was nice, but we stayed a while as we didn't really want to tick him off - might be 'connected' if you get my drift ...)
We gooi'd left shortly after and headed through the Uniondale Poort:
Through avontuur:
Then we were greeted by this:
Prince Alfred's pass.
Like so many people have said - there is nothing that can prepare you for the scenery that is just about to unfold before you.
A photo just doesn't cut it:
Note to self - stop taking a leak next to the road when your pillion are ready with a camera...
You cannot begin to imagine the scenery.
If you or your pillion are 'sensitive' to heights, gets nervous easily or just don't like the idea of riding about 1/2 to 1 meter from the edge of a 20 to 50 meter (by the looks of things) drop with no shoulder or barrier, then you might want to consider an alternative route.
It's not that it is that dangerous, but if I cannot see far enough ahead (or around corners) to see a 'stofstreep' (the dust trail behind a car, not the forum member) coming my way, then I assume that other people are not gonna see me and drive like it is a one way for them. So then I tend to go slower and more left just to be less in an oncoming car's way.
It's been a while since I had a 'distance to height' ratio like this in any pass, never mind a gravel one with this scenery. The place is amazing !
You have to do this at some point (but you must not be in a hurry - the scenery and fresh air demands your full and unhurried attention.
When we started out our tour, we were going to come back from Dordrecht to Somerset East (family there). We couldn't get hold of them (yeah, that's how well we planned), so we decided the last day in Dordrecht that it was gonna be Graaff-Reinet and Uniondale. Initially I wanted to do Montague pass, but we have done it before. We were looking at the map and saw this (what looked like) gravel road snaking from Uniondale to Knysna, so we decided to take it. Up to that point I didn't realise that this was the same road that Trailrider's Epic tour had The Dogs pass by a couple of weeks before we were there. I thought that things started to look familiar (from the photos that TR, Spook, Soutman and others posted):
Then this removed all doubt:
Yes, we were 'loering'.
Headed into De Vlugt. I cannot make out witch one of these are "Red's Corner" but it looked kinda familiar:
R10 a shot (!) appeltiser in the shade of the the little (and only) shop.
The 'tannie' that was there vaguely remembered the Wilddogs, she said. I was thinking she must have had some SERIOUS memory issues while bumping her head a couple of times to NOT have remembered that bunch !
I thought about asking her how far ahead they were and if she think we could still catch up, but I didn't think that her and my sense of humour would be able to find too much common ground...
Little house opposite the road from the shop:
On 2nd thought, EVERYTHING in de Vlugt might just be 'opposite the road from the shop'.
I was thinking 'the hills have eyes' at some point (can you tell that I've been away from TV and movies for a while?).
We spent a little more time in the shade of the tree and then headed out.
It's also been a while since I've climbed so high in such a short distance. Breathtaking views all around.
Spot the fly fishing dude lower left (just before the river makes a turn).
This is indeed a beautiful piece of earth:
Some more gravel highway:
Some "just make sure you are not too fast 'round that corner" keep you awake moist road:
Next stop was at the t-junction where you can go straight (R339) to Knysna or take the R340 to Plettenbergbay.
Looking down the R340 to Plett:
(Autumn... gotto love it)
While Vicky was setting up that photo this is the one I took:
Some more "Al l�ª die berge nog so blou" :
Another stop to appreciate the scenery:
*Puts on a David Attenborough accent*:
This is where we discovered the footprint of the "Adventurius Wildinium Caninius Gee-essius Anakeeheeus" - More commonly known as the Wild dog Adventure rider. How privileged we were to be in such great company !
At a turnoff I decided it was time for some silliness again:
For those who can't see that far, this is the silliness:
(Upside down ma ..... ahh never mind)
This is also where we made the biggest mistake for the day: We didn't go down the turnoff that said: "Kom se pad"
We were headed for the N2 just outside the Noetzie turnoff. I did not know that the informal settlement that you see there from the N2 stretched so deep in. It was an interesting ride to see all the shacks, houses and 'makeshift' ingenuity on the way to the N2.
From there it was a petrol stop at Knysna and out on the N2:
We went up the phantom pass and had a last 'rest' before we headed off to a cousin and her husband on a farm just outside Karatara:
Due to dusk setting in and it getting late we decided to take the N2 towards Sedgefield and then turn off to go to Karatara.
All in all it was a lovely day with a very pleasant 'progression' in scenery (for us anyway) from the Karoo to the KleinKaroo and down into the Garden route.
On the 'WEG' forum there was a couple of people that were talking about where your soul are (where would you 'find' it).
Mine is without a doubt in the Garden Route. Even the majestic Drakensberg over the Barkley pass (even though it was more awesome and breathtaking on a bigger scale) could not stir me like the scenery that waited for me and folded open as we came around that 1st bend from Uniondale Poort. The breathtaking view with the added familiarity (and that unmistakable Southern Cape / Garden Route smell) just had me.
Technically the road down Prince Alfred's wasn't that demanding (apart from what I described above). Normal rules applied for our style of two-up riding: Don't accelerate or decelerate too hard as it is uncomfortable for Vicky (and me). So down the pass (and mostly up as well on the other side of de Vlugt) it was 2nd and 3rd most of the time. At times when I could see far enough ahead (especially when you start getting into the plantation area after the Plett turnoff) I opened up a little to 80 / 100, but at that speed you might end up breaking too hard for a corner or some potholes/branches/whatever in the road. And why would you want to race past scenery like this anyway ?
When you get closer to the informal settlement I would suggest extreme caution at not too high a speed. There are anything from (non looking) pedestrians to stray dogs to 'seepkiskarre' to shop trolleys to cattle that can be right in front of you at any bend.
Once again we settled in for very good food, better company and lots to relive from the past couple of days.
From here the plans were: Hang in George the next day, then chill in Klein-Brak from where we would go to Oudshoorn (Robertson pass) through Calitzdorp, Huisrivier, Seweweekspoort and then (eventually) on the N1 and home.
The next chapter will then also be the last.
Until then: Hasta la Vista, baby.