Day I: 20 December ~ 280km
Time: 10 am – 6.30 pm
BELLVILLE, SIGNAL HILL, CAPE POINT, MUIZENBERG, STRAND, GORDONS BAY, ROOIELS, PRINGLE BAY, BETTYS BAY, KLEINMOND, HERMANUS.
After breakfast Sunday morning, 20 Dec, we were both togged up in our riding gear and with minimum luggage strapped to the bikes we were ready to head out. Roxy and Dan were doing their ‘thing’ in Cape Town and meeting us at the Hole-in-the-wall with the bakkie and trailer in 8 days time. Hugs and kisses and good wishes passed between us and we were on our way at about 10 am.
We headed out on the N1 with me leading the way as I had a vague idea of where we were heading. This gave me some time to relax on the bike and get used to the weight of the luggage and backpack. This was our first long adventure ride using the Honda’s and I wasn’t sure if it would be as comfy as my previous XT that had taken me safely through many African countries.
I had a route planned in my head which would take us on the reverse route of the Cape Argus Cycle Tour. But first we wanted to get to Signal Hill and check out the view.
While heading through the center of town I happened to glance up a narrow cobbled lane and spotted the beautiful brightly colored Gorgian terraced houses on the right at the base of Signal Hill. This bright and cheerful looking neighbourhood is better known as Bo-Kaap and is the home to the Cape Muslim community.
Many of the residents are descendants of slaves from Malaysia, Indonesia and various other African countries who were brought over in the 16th&17th Century by the Dutch. It would have been so divine to spend a bit of time walking through the many colorful lanes….but time was not on our side. So we just took a few photos to say ‘ek was daar’.
Signal Hill was awesome, offering some amazing views of a lovely city surrounded by mountains and ocean. There was ‘busyness’ all around us, paragliders experiencing an adrenalin rush as they ran off the mountain side, in the distance loaded cable cars heading up to the top of Table Mountain, hikers walking to the Lions Head, cars moving up and down the mountain side, ships cruising in and out of the harbor, far out towards Blouberg Strand kite surfers were catching cold Atlantic waves and thousands of tourists absorbing every wonderful moment of their stay in this busy and beautiful south west corner of Africa.
NOT SURE WHO THIS GUY WAS...BUT HE WANTED HIS PHOTO TAKEN.
We weaved in and out of the traffic down to the Camps Bay coastline and followed the coastal road from Hout Bay along the scenic drive of Chapman’s Peak Drive. Stunning views of the turquoise waters of the Atlantic coastline forced us to stop a few times as I tried to memorize as much as possible. Riding through Kommetjie and seeing the lighthouse took me back 36 years to our first visit to this area as a younger couple.
HOUT BAY
KOMMETJIE LIGHTHOUSE
The breeze was fresh as we rode along the magical area of Misty Cliffs which offers one a peaceful and quieter part of the peninsular. Even on a bicycle this is one of my favorite spots which reminds me that South Africa is such an awesome country.
Crossing over from Scarborough towards Smitswinkel was gusty, as it always is during the Argus cycle tour. When we saw the horrific long queue at the turn off to the Cape Point Nature Reserve we decided to give it a miss and continue towards Simons Town.By now we were looking eagerly for a place to eat and the Quarterdeck, near the naval base, was the spot.
ENTRANCE TO CAPE POINT NATURE RESERVE
SIMONS TOWN
Having only ridden about 100km it would have to be a quick stop as we still had a long way to go. The traffic was bumper to bumper and extremely slow all the way to and through Muizenberg on the R310. Thank goodness for motorbikes as zipping in and out of the slow moving traffic made it bearable. We skirted the coastline at the top of False Bay until we reached the M17 and headed north to the N2….apparently this was a safer option…which I regret now as I would have liked to experience riding through Mitchells Plain and Khayelitsha. Being on the highway was not so relaxing and it was a relief once we turned off south towards the Strand and Gordons Bay.
Riding on this narrow hillside road along the False Bay coast in the late afternoon light was a treat. From the Cape Point side of False Bay to the Hottentots Holland Mountain on the east side is a spectacular bay spanning about 35 kms. Sailors returning from the East used to mistake Cape Hangklip, just south of Pringle Bay, for Cape Point and navigate their ships into this bay , instead of the Atlantic side of the Cape Peninsular, finding themselves trapped and turning around was no easy task due to the strong currents and winds…hense the name False Bay.
LOOKING BACK ON GORDONS BAY
FALSE BAY
By the time we reached Pringle Bay it was late afternoon and the grey clouds were packing in overhead making the chill factor just bearable. It got windier and colder as we crossed over to Betty’s Bay. We were looking forward to reaching Kleinmond where we had decided to camp for the night. We soon turned off at the Palmiet Caravan Park sign. On arrival we were promptly stopped at the entrance and ushered to the one side to be told that motorbikes were not allowed!! I went to check at the office if campsites were available. They were… @ R400 a site/night and we were informed that we had to leave our bikes at the gate and carry our luggage in…can you believe it! By now it was about 6.30pm and we were keen to settle for the night. Thanks to our friend Google we found a room at Hermanus Backpackers for the same price! So we promptly head off for another 35 minutes of riding.
Now this was a comfortable and welcoming spot. A lovely old double storey house filled with interesting young travelers, foreign accents, big smiles and warm greetings. Hermanus is part of the Whale Route and every year from July to November these mammels swim along the cold waters of the Agulhas coast as part of their breeding cycle thus attracting many Captonians and tourists alike.
We promptly settled in and set off on foot in search of a restaurant in town where we rewarded ourselves with some tasty seafood. This was a wonderful start to our adventure.