Vilanculos

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KTM Jagermeister

Pack Dog
Joined
May 25, 2009
Messages
415
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Location
Pretoria
Bike
KTM 950 SE
This was my first trip on my new KTM 640 Adventure.  Just got is, only did some tar and was eager to test the legendary Dakar bike!  The usual requirements for our trips is a bike that you can trust, a valid passport, a sense of humor and a spirit of adventure.
Naturally we needed fuel.  This one can find at the most unbelievable places.  Usually a café will have a couple of liters stored away somewhere and the price are “slightly” higher than the Total garage in Hatfield.  Wouter was once again the team leader and guide.
We trailered our bikes through to Punda Maria where we have way,way too much and then got up the next morning and drove to the Pafuri gate.  Here we left the vehicles and embark on our adventure.  We don’t like tar, as a matter of fact we don’t even like long straight open dirt roads.  These are the things we avoid.


Departing into Mozambique

What an eye opener, especially If you have never ridden your big bike on sand before this.  We were a merry group of six.  Myself, Wouter  a.k.a. the Flying Dutchman, Peter, Kevin (Bag Lady),  Vaughn , and Brian.  Three 640s and three 950s



Crossing the Limpopo

The trip started off in a sandpit.  By the time we stopped at the river (about 3km) I have already run 1 km and fallen twice.  The Limpopo was pumping and we soon found out that the 950s did not like this.  Eventually it took everybody to pull these beasts through.  So we have spent an hour to do 3km and another 600 and something lay ahead.  Great stuff!!!


End of one of the special stages "Between the bridges".

Fortunately the road became more forgiving.  We headed out north towards Chicualacuala, a little town on the Zimbabwe border.  Everybody  got separated due to the dust, but the road leading over some hills was easy to follow.  Our first stop was in the Nuanedzi  river.  It was dry – thank goodness.  The next stop was in the town.  Chicualacuala is a beauty with images from the Portuguese era.  There is a nice bar at the railway station.  DO NOT RING THE BELL!  Fuel is just around the corner.




Chicualacuala

From Chicualacuala we road next to the railway line to St Jorge.  A boring road, but at least we could refill.  After St George we took a left turn onto a very nice winding road, wide and fast.  Just be careful of the cement tranches.  They are washed away on the sides and cause quite a wake-up when you hit them at 100km/h.  After we did a number of Wouter’s “Special Stages” we stopped at Machailla, where we had a couple of beers and stocked up on supplies for the night.  Beans, sardines … A little sandy road lead us to our resting spot. 


Refueling


Camping between the Mopanis

What a surprise when Wouter pulled out a HUGE rump steak.  Peter had Johnny Walker Black, Kevin some proper red wine … An absolute feast in between the Mopani trees.



The next morning we continued on the little sandy road.  It was thick sand with lots of corners lined to the side with Mopani trees.  With a 950 carrying all of your baggage you require some speed, but just exactly how much ???  At Mabote we sat down inside the shop for a gin and tonic, well deserved I might add.  It felt like sitting inside a fish tank with millions of faces staring at you from the outside. 


The Fisftank

From here it was a race to get to the sea.  As long as you stayed on the shiny section of the dirt road you had excellent traction.    It was about 150 km that we covered in an hour and a half.  A bit reckless at times, just slacking down close to the villages. 


Chatting about the ride


The Villa of Vilanculos

We reached Vilanculos at about 15h00, went for a shower and negotiated a special price on the house wine (if we drink in bulk).  And so we did, 17 bottles of Graca that evening with the most exquisite prawn and other food one can only imagine!


On the way to the island

We thoroughly enjoyed the stay, took a trip to the islands, went deep sea fishing, snorkeled, you name it.  Two day after our arrival we were saddling up again.  In Vilanculos we stocked up on some meat, refilled and departed.

By this time we were able to ride sand if I might be so bold.  It all seemed so much easier.  However the constant mania  to go faster and faster often got me into troubles.  How I ever missed those trees I will never know .  The road back was a bit longer.  We camped for two days, usually arriving just before sunset and then departing early the next morning.    Dry wood was no problem and there were always a small shebeen were we could buy Paradise Rum. 


First night in the way back

The last night we slept just outside Mapai.  Wouter has some contacts there with the locals and he quickly organized us some chairs and a table.  We had a magnificent view over the valley.  Before we ate we rode down to the Limpopo for a well deserved bath.  That evening it was chicken with Donna Anna sauce.  Beware it is HOT! 


Bathing in the Limpopo


Campsite with chairs

The last day was a short but very nice ride from Mapai to the Pafuri gate, next to the Limpopo.  Absolutely stunning scenery and a constantly changing road (so be aware).  We quickly went for a shower at Punda Maria and headed back…. 
 
Brilliant report and ride.

I gotta do this.
 
Nice, I'm doing this trip this year with a buddy.
What was fuel availability like at Mabote and other small towns along the way?
 
All of the small towns had some fuel available, just ask around.  Usually there is a can hanging from a tree or some other indication.  A big tank is recommended though.

With our last trip to Inhambane we arived at some places that they only had 5l pp or so, but it was enough to get us to the next refueling point.

 
Great RR and very nice picks. Did you manage to catch some fish?
 
Unfortunately we are much better bikers than fisherman ... not a single one.  Was much more successful when we rode to Kariba.  We cought one fish !
 
baie nice trip !! Hierdie jaar gaan ek saam !! :thumleft:
 
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