10-4 Lesotho

[NoelineT]

10 days, 4 bikers and one awesome adventure in Lesotho!

Day 1 - High Spirits, long roads and itchy throttle hands
Distance traveled: 950km (Bakkie with trailer) / Min altitude: 0km / Max altitude: 1270m

“So we’re leaving here at 6am, ok?” Those were the words that had us at R-O-V-Rat’s doorstep Thursday evening already. Friday morning, rolling out of bed took a little longer for Oom Eikeboom than the rest of us, but, true to his words, the wheels rolled just before daybreak. Fitting 2 people into the backseat of the SuperCab Ford Ranger was surprisingly easy and we settled in for the the trip. The Veldskoen Padstal was a welcome sight and our breakfast stop. Refueled (us) and secured (the bikes) we hit the N1 to Beaufort West. From there it was straight through to Bethulie with a couple of driver swaps along the way. 11 hours and 950km later we finally found Ou Vellies Bike-packers on the other side of Bethulie, a welcome sight indeed! We were warmly welcomed by Peter & Annette and their stunning venison pies and muffins. After unloading the bikes, we packed the bakkie away for it’s 9 day stay in Bethulie. The bikes also had a roof over their heads for the night.

Day 2 - “I fell! Why didn’t anybody take a photo?!” - Riaan
Distance traveled: 300km / Min altitude: 1270m / Max altitude: 2500m

Murphy’s Law #324 - “Warn other people enough times about a danger to look out for and you will forget about looking yourself” Just after 8 we departed Bethulie under heavy, grey skies.   Annette had insisted I don my rainsuit when we left the Ou Vellies and, as she’d predicted, the rain started soon after we left. We stopped in Zastron for some breakfast and a new rainsuit for Riaan. Here we discovered the biltong and everybody stocked up for Lesotho – we’ll be needing our protein  Our next stop – Telle Bridge border control. My first impressions of Lesotho was the overpowering smell of passion fruit – we later found the plant responsible – people and taxi’s. This soon changed to beautifull scenery and water everywhere! Our first obligatory police roadblock went without a hitch and the winding route to Lake Letsie started. Riaan had warned us endlessly about the slippery watercrossings – probably the only surface I haven’t fallen on, yet – so when I heard a crash behind me I immediately stopped. We all rushed to make sure he was ok, in the process forgetting to grap a photo. He was understandibly upset...  When we reached Lake Letsie, our camping spot for the night, the rain let up only long enough for us to put up tents. By 7:30 we were all in bed and mostly passed out.

Day 3 - Camping inside the river’s flood-line - not our brightest moment...
Distance traveled: 280km / Min altitude: 1430m / Max altitude: 2560m

Daybreak had us up and the bikes reloaded a little slower than the day before. First destination for the day – Ongeluksnek Pass. It sounded very ... encouraging – I should have guessed what we were in for by the huge grins the guys were sporting. About a third down, Charl and Cornelis decided to go all the way to the bottom while Riaan and I slowly made our way back to the top of Lake Letsie. They caught up with us in no time at all Hopping back on the A4, we continued our journey to Mphaki. Around 4 we decided to call it a day – the guys sped off into the bundu’s looking for a suitable place to camp while I made sure the road stayed exactly where it was.  They found a beautiful spot right next to the river and we pitched camp for the second night. Disgusted with ourselves for being in bed so early the previous night, we attempted a social evening in Riaan and Charl’s tent – we were only in bed by 8:30 this time. A thunderstorm had started making itself heard by nightfall and Cornelis had instructions to shout if he started drifting downriver!

 

[NoelineT]

Day 4 - How to ride up an ***’s ***
Distance traveled: 105km / Min altitude: 1600m / Max altitude: 2850m

All tents accounted for and the river flowing a bit stronger, we left our cozy camping spot. A quick stop at the local Morena’s (chief) house, to thank her for letting us camp in her backyard, and then we set out for Semonkong on considerably wetter roads. Charl and co had an extra glint in their eye’s at the thought of muddy terrain – and they weren’t dissapointed either... It doesn’t matter where you stop in Lesotho - middle of nowhere, no abode or animal in sight for miles – 2 minutes later somebody shows up, more often than not, of the smaller portable variety. Which is why we were suprised, and delighted, by a full hour of lunch with nobody else in sight!   About an hour from Semonkong we hit rush-hour traffic. A flock of sheep and 4 donkeys. I started going right around donkey no.3 and his load, while he veered left. In true donkey fashion though, he changed his mind at the last moment and next thing I knew, I was seeing stars. A little winded but no worse for wear, my bike couldn’t say the same. Broken front-brake lever, both rear-view mirrors snapped off and the remaining indicator light now also gone. But still rideable! Me and Olifant are well versed in the art of falling We decided to push on to Semonkong, a little slower and the guys on high alert for any signs of problems from my or my bike. Assessing the damaged brake leaver we realised the spare clutch I’d brought wouldn’t work as a replacement. Charl and Cornelis quickly rode back to the scene of the crime and retrieved the discarded lever. Never throw parts away even if they’re broken! After a quick pow-wow, a plan of action was formulated and the manager assured us we could use their power drill the next morning. Time to head down to the dining room for supper and some drinks.

Day 5 - Wire, Pratley Steel and Ducktap’d
Distance traveled: 200km / Min altitude: 1640m / Max altitude: 2850m

The morning started late but eventually we dragged ourselves out of bed and went hunting for the promised drill. Repairs done and refueled, Aletsunyane waterfall was next on the list. Roma was the biggest city we went through, having decided to avoid Masero. After only 4 days in relative rural conditions, the hustle and bustle was too much and we only lingered long enough to devour a fresh bread from one of the café’s on the edge of town. We were enjoying the great condition of the Blue Mountain Pass so much, we almost missed the fact that it was getting dark. Luckly we’d noticed a turnoff just a little while back and, after a quick scouting, it was decided that we’d camp there for the night. As this was no-man’s land, our only company that night was the herders and word, quite litterly and loudly, spread that new neighbours were moving in.

Day 6 - Katse... Bless you!
Distance traveled: 245km / Min altitude: 1920m / Max altitude: 2950m

As the sun started rising we vacated our tents and were greeted by the sight of herders and their dogs running up and down the hills – unfortunately they finished while we were discussing joining them   Mantsonyane was our next hope for petrol and, once the quickly negotiated price was settled, the proprietress led us to her house for the much needed fuel. At Thaba-Tseka we did a quick pitstop at the spaza shop for lunch supplies and hopped on the road to Katse. After lunch we did the same route back to Thaba-Tseka, unsuccesfully tried our luck refueling at the government fuel-station, got directions to the public petrol station and continued on our way to Sani Pass. Close to sundown we found another stunning spot next to the river on Menaoneng Pass. A definate drop in temperature was felt as soon as the sun went down – that should have been a clue of the night to come!

 

[NoelineT]

Day 7 - She has something for that!
Distance traveled: 200km / Min altitude: 1500m / Max altitude: 3200m

It was settling-in-you-bones freezing during the night. I finally managed to stop shaking long enough to fall asleep by lining my sleeping bag with hand warmers – warnings on the packaging be damn’d! Olifant needed some persuasion and a push to get started but eventually we were all mobile again. Evidence of the drop in temperature was all along our route. Just before Sani we stopped for a break and spotted our first group of other bikes coming in the opposite direction. One familiar face and some introductions later, one of the JHB riders showed off his loose boot sole. “She has something for that!” My guys said in almost unision and then the 4 of us burst out laughing, leaving the other group mildly apprehensive about our sanity. A quick explanation about my supplies and one fixed boot later, we parted ways. The top of Sani proved a bit much for me and Riaan offered to ride Olifant the first couple of turns. I think he was just looking for an excuse to zip up and down Sani till he found a lift... The famed Himeville Arms were unfortunately fully booked but after pointing out that we were all in desperate need of a shower (all to readily agreed with), they provided us with a local directory. We settled on Khosto Horse Trails and Backpackers about 10km out of town. Turned out to be a great choice with good atmosphere and hearty farm cuisine – just watch out for the mexican pea’s, they had the guys quite hot under the collar

Day 8 - “I’d hoped Sani would be in worse condition...” - Cornelis
Distance traveled: 330km / Min altitude: 1500m / Max altitude: 2500m

Bacon, eggs, toast and all the other farm breakfast ingredients (sans the chillies this time) had us back on the road just before 9. Just before lunch we turned off the tar road and headed back into the hills, heading though what Riaan affectionaly dub’d Teletubby Land. We decided to head to Rhodes for fuel and something warm. There we were informed that the pertol truck was on the way, would be there in 20min or so, really. More and more bike were coming off the mountain and soon the little town of Rhodes was full to the brim with empty tanks. After 2 hours we decided to rather find a place to camp for the night and headed to the town’s camping grounds. An hour later a bakkie with a 50gallon drum on a trailer pulled into town – the “pertol truck” had finally arrived! The rush for fuel started, we chose to wait till morning and settled in for the evening.

Day 9 - Timing is everything!
Distance traveled: 200km / Min altitude: 1270m / Max altitude: 1990m

Refueling the old fashioned way, we paid our dues at the corner shop and bid Rhodes farewel. We weren’t the only overnighters and the morning air rang with the sound of various groups of bikes heading in different directions. The Cape Town BMW club was was waiting for us at the top of Lundeans Nek. Bruno showed off his spectacular injury photo’s and Geoff also came over for a chat. Cornelis decided this was the best spot for his first, and only, fall of the trip. Right after I pointed him out to Geoff as “my bodyguard for this trip”.  ;D

Day 10 - Back through the looking glass
Distance traveled: 950km / Min altitude: 0m / Max altitude: 1270m

Once again at 6am, we left Bethulie, bakkie and bikes loaded. With news of rain and thunder storms from home, the open skies and gentle breezes were almost enough to convince us to head back into the wilderness... Message received, Lesotho! We’ll be back

 

[Grensvegter]

Nice pics! The photo you took in Mohale's Hoek next to the small dam is 200 m from my office. You could have had some nice coffee.
Believe it or not you where standing on part of the airport runway, close to where planes must land!

 

[Rynet]

Beautiful Pics Noeline , looks you guys had a great time  :thumleft: :thumleft:

 

[NoelineT]

The photo's were a group effort  but thanks

 

[JonW]

Great Ride Report and pictures  :thumleft:

Thanks for taking the time to share your awesome trip with us. Lesotho is such a special place to ride.

 

[Riaanrw]

Wow Noeline great RR.  :thumleft: Jy kan al die ripe reports van nou af doen.  :deal:  Dit was n voorreg om Lesotho saam julle drie te geniet. Ons moet dit gou weer doen.  :ricky:

 

[pmdb]

Great RR and awesome ride  :thumleft:

8)

 

[Outhere]

Very nicely put together ride report congratulations on an awesome trip .
Dual sport is about making a plan and making it happen no matter what even if it is
plastic steel and Duct tape.

 

[myni]

Terrific RRbringsnd memories.

 

[LRFan]

Baie lekker trip en fotos, daar is 'n paar wat lyk of dit vrek koud en nat was.

 

[eikeboom]

Well put Noeline! And I like your photos. Dankie ouens dit was 'n trip om vir altyd te onthou!
:ricky:

 

[nreyneke]

Great ride report manne! Lekker  :thumleft:

 

[KnopKop]

WOW  :drif: :drif:

What a cool ride report, you prove it yet again, it is impossible to take a bad photo in Lesotho  :biggrin: :biggrin:

Thanks for sharing!

 

[GlenInk (R.I.P)]

Stunning ride report !  :thumleft:

I only have one problem . . . .  :deal:

You guys were less than 100km from my place and you did not let me know !  atch:

I`d have shot up to Rhodes to say hi !  8)

Next time you guys head this way, please let me know so I can come say hi ! :ricky:

Riding around in my back yard without letting me know is a criminal offence !  :biggrin:

Punishable with Jaggermeister !  :imaposer:

Thanks for a stunning ride report !  :thumleft:

 

[djpreston]

Awesome RR and looks like a great trip, thanks for sharing.  :thumleft:

 

[Dusty Rusty]

Awesome Ride Report!

Beslis een van die wat ek nog ooit die meeste geniet het

Well done!

 

[Losper]

Awesome julle ouens, just awesome, Lesotho is nou maar net eenvoudig een van die mooiste plekke om te ry.

 

[NoelineT]

Thanks all 

It was an amazing trip and I had a great time riding with you guys!

So where are we going next?!?  :