Drusky
Race Dog
My situation is pretty much the same as Coxwain's https://wilddog.net.za/forum/index.php?topic=126136.0 and Bees https://wilddog.net.za/forum/index.php?topic=69251.0
I went for quite a long, rough ride on Sunday down Elandsrivier road over the hill to Patensie. Then we rode 50km into Baviaans (Smits Kraal river crossing) and back out the way we had come. I pushed the piggy fairly hard and noted oil leaking down the final drive housing on exiting the reserve. "I'm sorry lass, we'll sort that out soon."
Soooo I have to replace the rear gearbox oil seal. I have my Haynes manual handy, ready to have at it... but I am thinking of the advice Welsh gave me here: https://wilddog.net.za/forum/index.php?topic=112170.0
What else would you kind folks suggest I should attend to whilst fiddling around down there?
Mileage:
75000km
Service History:
Bought at 62000km (R45500), apparently major service was done at 60000km but no proof (last dealer service in book at 40 000km).
Oil + oil filter, air filter change at 70 000km 2013
Off at roughly 68000km?
Previous service at 65 000km Oil change, fuel filter change, spark plugs, air filter change.
Probably due for valve clearance setting and throttle body balancing.
Condition:
The bike has seen some rough trails in my time, with one off recorded here: https://wilddog.net.za/forum/index.php?topic=26440.0
No play on the rear wheel.
No funny sounds, vibrations. Seems to be running a bit rich after air box change. Has more grunt since air box change.
Popping down to the cave quick to do a general inspection. Brb 12:36pm 14/02. Done 12:58 14/02.
Notes:
Gear oil for fd and gearbox, SAE 80w 90
Final drive:
Remove rear brake caliper and cable tie to frame (caliper bolts 40NM).
Loosen torque arm where it meets final drive (fd) but don't pull the bolt (43NM).
Remove rear wheel (wheel bolts 105NM)
Remove gaiter between swing arm (sa) and fd mine was held on with cable ties.
Heat pivot bolts to 200°C with heat gun to soften thread lock.
Remove LHS lock nut first whilst holding pivot allen head still. Then remove RHS pivot bolt.
Lock nut 105NM LHS pivot 7NM, RHS pivot 150NM hold on to the tapered bearing face that comes out with the pivot bolt.
Pull that loose torque arm bolt and support the fd as you pull it loose.
You can pop the universal joint away from the fd using levers.
Swing Arm
Shove a thin bit of wood between under side of swing arm and gear box housing collar keep the sa from dropping when it is loose.
Remove lower shock bolt (50NM).
Heat and remove pivot bolts as for fd. The sa bearings appear to be sealed on my motorcycle.
I had to loosen my stock exhaust can from the frame to get some wiggle room between sa and shock enabling me to slide the sa out.
The drive shaft can be popped loose from the gearbox as for the fd.
Pivot bolt LHS 7NM lock nut 105NM
Pivot bolt RHS 150NM
Note: The part number for the "front gaiter" listed in the .xls file attached to this post is not correct. I have wrongly inserted the code for the "rear gaiter". You can look up the correct part number for the front gaiter on Max BMW's online micro fiche system.
And now for a shameless plug. I highly recommend the work of Volker Schroer. He is an exceptionally knowledgeable and capable engineer with useful connections to some very well known BMW specialists in Germany. He has a passion for motorcycles particularly classic BMWs and Ducatis and he is simply a nice guy to deal with.
Volker Schroer
[email protected]
O82 555 3197
I went for quite a long, rough ride on Sunday down Elandsrivier road over the hill to Patensie. Then we rode 50km into Baviaans (Smits Kraal river crossing) and back out the way we had come. I pushed the piggy fairly hard and noted oil leaking down the final drive housing on exiting the reserve. "I'm sorry lass, we'll sort that out soon."
Soooo I have to replace the rear gearbox oil seal. I have my Haynes manual handy, ready to have at it... but I am thinking of the advice Welsh gave me here: https://wilddog.net.za/forum/index.php?topic=112170.0
What else would you kind folks suggest I should attend to whilst fiddling around down there?
Mileage:
75000km
Service History:
Bought at 62000km (R45500), apparently major service was done at 60000km but no proof (last dealer service in book at 40 000km).
Oil + oil filter, air filter change at 70 000km 2013
Off at roughly 68000km?
Previous service at 65 000km Oil change, fuel filter change, spark plugs, air filter change.
Probably due for valve clearance setting and throttle body balancing.
Condition:
The bike has seen some rough trails in my time, with one off recorded here: https://wilddog.net.za/forum/index.php?topic=26440.0
No play on the rear wheel.
No funny sounds, vibrations. Seems to be running a bit rich after air box change. Has more grunt since air box change.
Popping down to the cave quick to do a general inspection. Brb 12:36pm 14/02. Done 12:58 14/02.
Notes:
Gear oil for fd and gearbox, SAE 80w 90
Final drive:
Remove rear brake caliper and cable tie to frame (caliper bolts 40NM).
Loosen torque arm where it meets final drive (fd) but don't pull the bolt (43NM).
Remove rear wheel (wheel bolts 105NM)
Remove gaiter between swing arm (sa) and fd mine was held on with cable ties.
Heat pivot bolts to 200°C with heat gun to soften thread lock.
Remove LHS lock nut first whilst holding pivot allen head still. Then remove RHS pivot bolt.
Lock nut 105NM LHS pivot 7NM, RHS pivot 150NM hold on to the tapered bearing face that comes out with the pivot bolt.
Pull that loose torque arm bolt and support the fd as you pull it loose.
You can pop the universal joint away from the fd using levers.
Swing Arm
Shove a thin bit of wood between under side of swing arm and gear box housing collar keep the sa from dropping when it is loose.
Remove lower shock bolt (50NM).
Heat and remove pivot bolts as for fd. The sa bearings appear to be sealed on my motorcycle.
I had to loosen my stock exhaust can from the frame to get some wiggle room between sa and shock enabling me to slide the sa out.
The drive shaft can be popped loose from the gearbox as for the fd.
Pivot bolt LHS 7NM lock nut 105NM
Pivot bolt RHS 150NM
Note: The part number for the "front gaiter" listed in the .xls file attached to this post is not correct. I have wrongly inserted the code for the "rear gaiter". You can look up the correct part number for the front gaiter on Max BMW's online micro fiche system.
And now for a shameless plug. I highly recommend the work of Volker Schroer. He is an exceptionally knowledgeable and capable engineer with useful connections to some very well known BMW specialists in Germany. He has a passion for motorcycles particularly classic BMWs and Ducatis and he is simply a nice guy to deal with.
Volker Schroer
[email protected]
O82 555 3197
