“What time is it?” is my first thought as I wake up. By the light in the room I can see it’s no longer dark outside. It’s bitterly cold, I have no idea how cold, it’s just COLD!! The room has an aircon and I should’ve turned it on to warm up the room before I went to bed. The only two pin plug in the room is underneath the TV. Before I went to bed I unplugged the decoder box to use this socket as a charge point for my phone. I set the alarm but it hasn’t gone off. Did I say it’s cold?
I can feel I’m tired from my 767km ride yesterday. My thoughts for a moment once again turn the to the privateer Dakar riders. Imagine I got in late last night, freezing fingers and all, had to service the bike, catch some kip and set off again this morning for another 700+km stage in tough terrain. Imagine doing this two weeks in a row. What an achievement in human endurance!!
I force myself out from the underneath the thick warm duvet. Phone fully charged, 7:45...I look outside the window, It’s Sunday and in Vanderkloof you can hear a pin drop. Beautiful sunrise over the dam with the koppies in the back round. I had planned to leave 7:00am. With bare feet I skip over the cold tiles to the bathroom. The shower has good pressure, I’m thankful! My fingers are still hurting from last night’s cold.
In the shower, it takes a good while to defrost. I decide to calm down and just take it as it comes. I should get going but refuse to feel rushed, I’ll just end up forgetting things.
Nice self catering accommodation!!
Dressed and packed I push the gate closed whilst Guss is idling in the street. The rumble of the mighty Rotax cold probably be hear right across town despite the stock zorst. I’m not there to create an impression and as gentle and soft as I can make my way past our old house (now just a foundation) up the hill, left past the old “sentrale” where the tannie worked that connected me to my ouma or mom at the shop they had. Do you remember, “nommer asseblief?”, “dubbel twee een seblief tannie”, “Maak so faantjie, groete vir ouma”, “ek se vir haar tannie”.
The petrol garage used to be a Trek and there was a Kwagga just on the corner outside the garage. For some reason, I remember the Iron Brew I could buy there. It looks like the same fridge, at least the previous one also stood in exactly the same spot. I pull in but there is no sign of life. Flip, I’ll have to fill up at Petrusville. I hear a faint voice, “Hello mnr….hellooooo”. I look around and see a man dressed in the garage colours briskly making his way across the road towards me. Phew, I kick out the side stand and turn off the ignition. “More mnr, ka ek ma vol maak vir u?”, “Ja seblief grote, net die wit tenk”. I’ve learned. Again, no overflow issue! Guss with his self-healing properties is amazing. Luckily, he has a card machine, I don’t carry cash!! He’s been in Vanderkloof for 23years.
This used to be the Trek (kwagga stasie)
The guy that back then owned it, eventually bought my oupa's Suzuki.
I want to ride around and see more of the town but decide this also is a trip for another time. I’ll savour it. It’ll be something to look forward to in the future. Out of town I look for the entrance sign, I need proof that Guss and I was there. I see the back of a big sign, that’s it!! I pull over and do the formalities.
Down the hill right, straight, right again, then up the hill over the hill into a left turn down again towards the roundabout (or circle). I’m impressed with these cold Heidenau’s. Down the hill towards the roundabout (or circle) I must decide, go left to Petrusville or take the third exit toward the bridge for a picture. I’m undecided and go with the flow. I lean into the corner round the roundabout (or circle) then a nice sweeping left down the hill and I spot a car on the bridge. The occupants that is supposed to be in the car spots me pull up and hurriedly run back, jump in and the doors closes almost simultaneously, the rear left door still closing when the driver sets off. I feel bad, they think I want to cross the bridge. I’ve interrupted their moment. All smiles they wave as they drive by and I reciprocate the gesture. I pull onto the bridge toward the right. Perfectly positioned for the planned photo. As I get off old Guss I notice a car standing waiting for me where I stood waiting a minute ago. Karma is returned and all is neutral again. Screw it, I’m not a damn riding to the end of the bridge to only have to make a “U” turn, ride all the way back over make another “U” turn and then back where I started. I give the all apologetic show, and grab Guss by the top box and pull towards me. Guss leans over which gives the Rustler bakkie enough room to safely manoeuvre past, the occupant once again very friendly and appreciative of my efforts.
I take my opportunity and get the shots. Phone back into left jacket pocket, gloves on I push Guss round into a two-point turn and we’re facing where we came from.
The Freestate / Karoo border (Orange River)
Ok Guss, let’s go home.
I hang left on the third exit of the roundabout and down the hill. I think about “Oom” Johan who has lived here all his life. I think about people in general who live in one place for an entire lifetime. I admire that and wonder if I could do that for the rest of my life from now onward. I think about the progress one makes by staying put vs constantly moving and starting over. I think about traveling and nostalgia. I realize there and then, I’m a traveller, a nomad. I have to keep moving, I have to keep exploring, challenging, meeting, seeing, experiencing…it’s my security. Staying in spot for too long makes me feel l am missing out, stagnating call it what you will. I’m addicted to the emotion of new discovery and the nostalgia of re-visiting. It’s part of my DNA.
Halfway between Vanderkloof and Petrusville six BMW UBER OVERLAND LC GSA’s TOURERS pass me from the opposite direction. They’re all fully kitted with panniers, topbox BMW riding gear the lot!! Some nod, some wave some just stare. I’m friendly and acknowledge the entire group. I cannot help but wonder how their experience on those bikes differ from mine after all, we’re on the same road with the same scenery and same conditions.
Here I am, I still don’t know what my tyre pressures are cause I haven’t taken the time to check, I don’t know what the ambient temp is, I just know it’s cold, my hands are freezing despite my SIDI winter gloves brought over from Europe, My ass will be numb in about another 76km, I know my tank is full cause I just filled it and my cruise control is a piece of plastic that my palm rests on. My helmet is full in the wind and is pushed back against my face which results in about a cm gap behind my head, or that’s what it feels like. And, unlike their suspension which analysis the road surface 100’s of time per second and adjusts accordingly based on your preferred setting for maximum comfort and traction, my suspension although upgraded was set by the previous owner and I’m yet to find out what those settings are. I think if anything it’s a bit on the hard side.
It’s then that I realise that as bikers we have one thing in common. We all have the desire for the experience of riding these machines in common. For some merely ownership satisfies the experience, for others it’s technology, comfort and style. Others prefer speed and some dust and mud. We even have different experiences on the same machines. We buy into an experience, an experience of which the desire is so strong that we label ourselves not as humans but as bikers or adventure riders. What a fantastic privilege to live in this age where these experiences are available to us!!
You see for me the lack of information fed via lcd display and by not having all those mod cons (except the ABS of course) leaves me to for e.g. feel the cold wind and not analyze a digital readout about the fact that it is say 0deg C. I have to think and experience the throttle under acceleration as no electronic system will assist on a diesel spill or in the wet, I have to decide by feel if I can ride with my frozen fingers as I don't have the option to switch on the heated grips, I have to force my head back round after checking my blind spot when at motorway speed, I have to track my mileage to gauge my fuel level, the chain needs “lubing” and looking after due to the lack of shaft dive, you have to decide if it is the road surface causing the drift or is it tyre pressure, no warning light is going to show you any of these things. This puts me back in the proverbial “drivers” seat, I have to evaluate my surroundings and make constant adjustments to suit. This to me here right now is exactly what I want to experience. Besides the luxury of ABS this to me is motorcycling at its core and I’m loving it!!!
I ask myself as I slow down to enter Petrusville, “Is this the experience you dreamt of?” And without a shadow of a doubt I had the biggest smile whilst thinking to myself….” It is perfect!!”
In Petrusville the upkeep of the NG Kerk is up to date which contrasts the rest of the town. My oupa was an elder in that church. It’s very pretty inside too. He always used to tell me in spring how far the swollows had to fly to nest there. He told me they came from England, over the sea. He knew England well. In the 60’s he was a policeman and was tasked to transport diamonds to England. He had old memorabilia from London in his study. Above his study door was a wooden sign that read “Meskien Vandag”.
I make good time riding on the R48 and arrive in Philipstown at 9:10am. In my mind I’m heading toward De Aar. I see the sign to turn right towards De Aar but something doesn’t feel right. I think I should go straight. I stop and pull out the iPhone for the tenth million time.
My suspicions are confirmed, if I carry on straight the R48 in Philipstown becomes the R389 and that takes me straight to the N1 past Hanover. No more time for games today, I have to get home in time for supper.
Checking Directions in Philipstown
For the first time, the road really opens up miles in front. It’s beautiful. Lightly coloured grass either side of the road, dark blue-sky lightening to a light blue on the horizon, the road stretching out further and further like a pencil line in front of me as I pass over ever hill. There hasn’t been anything so much as a breeze all morning and there certainly isn’t one now. It’s a perfect North Karoo winters day!! A few vehicles pass from the front. I haven’t seen anything behind me for ages. This is my gap!! I need an avatar for my profile on the forum.
On top of a hill I stop by the side of the road. A truck is inbound from up ahead in the distance. I must wait for it to pass. This puts the safety of this mission in jeopardy. If I push Guss into the middle of the road it could be lethal as we would then be on a blind rise for rear oncoming traffic. Although I felt safe when I stopped, the appearance of the truck changed everything. I keep an eagle eye on the road behind me looking back as far as I can. If I miss a vehicle coming over that hill, I will probably only see it from the air again as I go flying over the bonnet. My earplugs ensure for absolute silence and despite the risk of not hearing a vehicle approach I refuse to go through the removal procedure that will involve removal of my lid as well. The truck passes, I quickly push Guss into position. I take as many pics as I dare with different compositions. I look behind me, argh it’s no use!! Ahead of me is clear. Phone in pocket I evacuate safely onto the side of the road. I look through the pics again. Mission accomplished!!
Avatar
I push on, past Hanover. Guss is running like a champ. All the way I was avoiding the N1 thinking a 650 wasn’t built for this kind of abuse but how wrong I was. Guss holds steady overtaking big rigs and cars steadily holding his line. Every now and then in a quite area a car would pass me by only to get stuck behind a lorry again. It doesn’t take Guss and I long to catch up and fly by for us never to be seen again.
I stop at Richmond for a top-up. I haven’t yet had any coffee and my now chilled bone structure is sending desperate emergency signals to my brain. We need heat!! I put Guss on the centre stand and kindly request a top up. Next to me a Nissan Nivara with a “CEY” reg is also receiving fuel. I ask the attendant where I can get some coffee. I’ve just done a 200km stint and feel I deserve the break. The attendant points in the direction. I look in the direction. Look cosy and I already see where I’m going to leave Guss.
I hear a voice behind me, “Jy kom van ver af” the man says looking at my Mpumalanga number plate. “Goeie more” I replied. I think it’s polite to greet. “Ja ek ry die bike Kaap toe, gister van Benoni af, en Vrydag in Secunda opgetel”, “Ry jy deur vandag.” , “Ja ek doen. Waar is jy vandaan?” , “Ek bly in Gordon’s Baai” , “Ek bly ook daar, dis waantoe ek ry vandag. Ry jul ook deur?”, “Ja ons doen, mooi ry” , “Maak so, julle ook”.
The two men get in the bakkie and leave. Full of fuel and paid I decide to skip coffee. I kit up and give chase. “Don’t be a sissy!!” I think to myself.
Guss doesn’t know what’s going on as we pull away. Eventually 20min or so later in the distance I can see a white vehicle hastily making its way through the heavy traffic, predominantly trucks. Guss realises what’s going on. We both give chase!! I can see us reeling them in as they get stuck behind a lorry only to lose them again when they get a gap again. Don’t tell Guss but had I been on Tyson (1200GS) I would’ve had coffee and still have passed them before Three Sisters. Anyhow, halfway between Richmond and Three Sisters we catch up. They’re stuck behind a lorry but is pushing hard. They refuse to give way. I sit back as the mission is over, they think they still have a chance. I hang back as they overtake a truck, my turn and I’m back behind them. The driver sits on the double white line truck or no truck. Eventually I have to put them out of their misery and pass them at a rate of knots whilst waving with my left hand. I push on. I didn’t see them again. Well done Guss.
Before I knew it I see a sign for Beaufort West….40km. I’m getting the hang of this. It amazes me how the human body can adapt!! I knew it would, I just had to apply my mind. I’m really starting to have fun now!!
At Beaufort West I stop again for fuel at Engen, just in case. There is a Wimpy and I haven’t had Wimpy in a very long time. I’m more after coffee than anything else. I pick a seat from where I can see Guss. I order a large cuppa chino and the burger special. Outside people are periodically gathering around Guss, Guss is Guss but Guss still has his MP reg which I can see make people look around for the crazy person.
He’s not crazy folks, he’s reborn!!
Finally, coffee!!
Guss
One of those please
These calories will be long gone at Worcester
To be continued…….