Ben 10: (not) getting to grips with mud

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Day 3 (17 April 2022): Naude’s Nek Pass, Tenahead Tiffendel Traverse and Carlislehoekspruit Pass

Key statistics:

Distance: 86 km
Time: 7h00
Speed: 12 km/h (total) or 23 km/h (moving)

Video of day 3:


During our stay at Walkerbouts Inn, we got into the habit of an 8am breakfast and a late start (in today’s case 9:30). This was mainly to avoid the bitter cold of the early mornings. Although on later reflection we would have benefitted from an extra hour on most days, in order to avoid what became almost habitual night riding.

Yet today was different. Today was designated a “rest day”. Since our start / end point while riding the Ben 10 passes was always Walkerbouts Inn, Lance decided on each day which passes we would tackle, based on weather and group morale. After yesterday’s long day plus night riding, he opted for a short loop of 86km that included Naude’s Nek Pass, the Tenahead Tiffendel Traverse (TTT) and Carlislehoekspruit Pass.

Lance’s dad had joined a tour group earlier in the year and that exact 86km loop had taken a batch of 15-odd big bikes (1100-1200 cc) with riders of all varieties of skill level approximately 5 hours to complete. Therefore, we figured, it should be easier for us, due to the smaller bikes and not being new to stuff other than gravel highway. How wrong we were…

You see, there is one important factor to be considered: road conditions change like the weather. More to the point: road conditions change with the weather. What was meant to be a rest day, turned into one of the hardest days of riding.

But our past selves set off, blissfully unaware of the trials ahead. The only ominous sign was a grey sky.

Remo started the day off without his rain suit:

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Yet a mere 20 minutes later, the “fisherman” look was installed (Kim in foreground; Remo in glorious green in background):

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The start of a rainy day:
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We rode a section of Naude’s Nek Pass. The other section was saved for a later day on the trip. Actually a later night. But that’s a story for another day.

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Peter on his Yammie:
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Lance knows to pose side-on when you have a bazillion warmth layers plus rain suit, to reduce the full spherical look.

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We found our first mud of the day. Here is where the little bikes shine. The lack of power and weight was a plus point. Lesson for the day: don’t do anything funny with the throttle and don’t make any sudden changes of direction. Is there a huge puddle in front of you? Yes? Does it require squiggly manoeuvres? Yes? Rather go through the puddle. Squiggly could become “splat”.

Me and Kim on a (very) slow trundle:
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Lance, on the other hand, was having a bit of a mind-f***. He is a more aggressive (and better!) rider than me, and usually uses a throttle blip to get out of sticky situations. Here a throttle blip can send you off the road.

At least there’s something to look at while recalibrating:
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Next up: Tenahead-Tiffendell Traverse (TTT); apparently (according to marketing) the highest contour road in the country.

Wet from above and below:
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We only saw one vehicle today. It stopped at Tenahead Lodge. Good call. It was probably a lot warmer there. And drier.

River 1:
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River 2:
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River 3:
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What lurks beneath?
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River 4 had a steep bank, adding a bit extra speed for the full wash cycle experience.

Kim plopping in:
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Remo the green submarine:
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And so we all had wet boots for the remainder of a 7-degree day. Yippee…

No Lance-organised route would be complete without a side quest. Most of our trips have a liberal helping of these, but we were to learn that they don’t work so well here when you have wet conditions and limited daylight.

Regardless, we were going to check out Lahana’s Pass as a potential return route for another day’s route. It was “interesting” right off the bat.

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Spooky middle-of-nowhere feels:
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Things soon got “very interesting”.

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Kim and I made it past obstacle number 1, but Kim had to help me when I did the stupid stall-with-the-back-wheel-in-front-of-the-step story.

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Rather scenic pit-stop:

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I still had my comms on, so I could vaguely hear Lance up ahead through some snaps and crackles. I think I made my message understood: “Do we continue and catch up?” The last clear message I heard was something along the lines of waiting until the guys figure whether we go further. The rest of the broken telephone messages and noises didn’t sound like things were going according to plan.

The guys were doing the full mud pit wrestle. Without the girls. Go figure. Stick a mountain in a story and things start going broke.

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Remo was the front-runner guinea pig, so got shafted the worst. When trying to lift his bike out the quagmire, he and bike just ended up flung in the opposite direction. Result: full mud facial.

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You know the mud is next level when it manages to hold the front wheel of a cantilevered bike in the sky.

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Conclusion: A whole lot of “nope”. Scratch the idea of this as a return route for another day. We don’t know what the rest will look like, but the current pace was a strong indicator. Maybe one day in some distance mystical future, when it’s dry.

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Choose your traction option: mud or wet grass.

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A rest is in order:
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Peter showing us it wasn’t the rocks that were the problem! A can’t pull a stunt like that on a flat surface…

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Heading back:
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Full rain suit extravaganza back on the TTT:
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In an area devoid of substantive foliage, it helps if you have a small group of close friends who you can simply order: “Don’t look this way!” It doesn’t help if you have a partner who will still take photos regardless.

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Lance’s GoPro was having an off day. Literally. It decided to be dysfunctional for 2 hours; not recording the slowly worsening state of the road due to light, but steady rain. Indirectly, the GoPro caused one of the two big incidents of the day.

Lance stopped to coax the GoPro back into technologically pliant behaviour. As a result, he rode a bit faster to try to catch the rest of us. The inevitable next step was a horizontal one.

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I heard the fall through the comms. Worry mode kicked into full gear when his answer to “Are you ok” wasn’t a straight “yes”. Next question: “Can you pick up your bike?” “Maybe”. Hmm. Not good. I turned around and made my way back to Lance as gracefully as the mud allowed, which isn’t much.

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Turns out Lance hit his upper arm against a rock. It must have hit a nerve, because his arm was pins and needles for the next hour and he was unable to use it properly over the next few days due to muscle pain and weakness.

So how can a spaghetti-arm girl possibly help a one-armed dude pick up a 790? Google “monkey lift”. It can help in tricky situations like this. All I need to do is hang off one side of the bike. I end up with my butt on the ground and hoping Lance ensures the bike doesn’t go over all the way and land up on top of me! It basically just makes the bike feel lighter to pick up from the pick-upper perspective.

Lance got up and got going, but you could see that the “kopwurm” (translated “head-worm”) was firmly installed. The mojo was gone. His one arm was not very useful anymore. It also didn’t help that the KTM had far too much power on that back wheel; causing plentiful circle-spins and other similar involuntary direction changes. Lance switched the bike into rain mode, which did help.

Meanwhile I was having a weird role-reversal experience. Today I was the one trundling along like a happy camper, yet I was constantly worried about Lance. Poor guy. So this is what his nerves usually feel like when worried about me!
 
Day 3 continued

The next series of pictures show the conditions we were up against: lots of wet.

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Wondering whether the wheels will break traction here:
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Pussy-footing it:
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Lance and I stopped to eyeball an obstacle of sloped rock that started with a rocky dip. We needed a guinea pig. Remo happily rode past. Oh. Ok. That looked easy. How embarrassing.

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We finally reached the main obstacle of the pass: a relatively steep and rocky uphill. It was one of those you couldn’t snail up. If you stalled, it would be a ball-ache to get going. Or a boob-ache. Choose your gender-appropriate option.

Lance was the guinea pig this time. Yet the kopwurm had the last say. He managed to get stuck with his nose pointing off the road on a steep corner. Remo went to help him.

Watching Lance didn’t help my nerves one bit. I was willing to palm by bike off on whoever felt like riding a Rally up a hill. Yet Lance always encourages me to give obstacles a bash. Fine. I wasn’t picking any lines. It was go fast or go home.

Of course it looks flat on photos:
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I didn’t stop until I reached flatness. Everyone else were little dots in the distance. Thankfully we have GoPro to capture what happened next for posterity.

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Kim got stuck at the same steep corner as Lance; also pointing perpendicular to the preferred direction of travel.

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Peter, her gentleman, took the bike from there.

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Peter made it without a hitch. He and Lance are the most skilled riders of the bunch.

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The theatre spectacular was provided by Remo. He saw the stalling shenanigans and compensated with too much speed. I heard his bike’s impact all the way to where I was standing.

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Thankfully both Remo and bike were ok and semi-ok respectively. The beautiful newly-painted shroud just had a couple of scratches on the nose.

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Lance struggled to get going from Remo’s resting spot to the top of the hill. The KTM’s rain mode was cutting the power every time the wheel spun on the wet uphill. Rain mode had to be switched off to get up the hill. Too many complex, fancy things on that bike.

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A rest was in order, after getting up the hill.

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Followed by more rocky wetness:

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The end of the TTT! We survived!

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Remo on gravel highway.

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Well. We were to learn that gravel highway doesn’t exist for any length of time here. Unlike the well-manicured gravel roads of most of most of the Western Cape, here a perfectly good road will, all of a sudden, have an obstacle; be it a mud bog or an innocent-seeming puddle.

When you see a puddle, do you usually choose the narrow section to go through, or the wide one? Lesson: go for the wide. The narrow section tends to be deeper. In this case, more of a step-down and step-up.

Remo, our usual accident-prone guinea pig, hit the narrow puddle. Lance said he saw water splash up over Remo’s helmet in a spectacular fashion. Regardless, Lance didn’t recalibrate and also got his teeth rattled.

We back-markers benefitted from the lessons of others.

Remo standing where we shouldn’t ride (the wide bit was shallow and fine):
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Carlileshoekspruit Pass was a doddle in comparison to TTT. It was incredibly scenic and probably had some of the steepest sections and tightest turns of all the passes, but the very steep bits were concreted.

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The mud was not being kind to Lance. We all had turns to be horizontal on this trip. Today was very definitely Lance’s day.

At least a thumbs-up means all’s well:
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To add insult to injury, the mud at that point was of the smelly variety, with extra aroma of goat added:

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At least there was opportunity to rinse off:

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From left to right: Lance, Kim, Peter, Remo and me. Lance and I still sported full rain suits, Kim and Peter the pants only. Remo either didn’t feel the cold or liked freedom of movement from his waterproof dungarees.

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The down side of doing a Rhodes trip in April: the rain / wet. The up side: the autumn trees. Susan, from Walkerbouts Inn, told us this was her favourite season due to the colours.

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Don’t get your hopes up. In reality the closest fuel to Rhodes is Barkley East, 60km away. There is none in / near Rhodes.

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Some final river crossings for the day:

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You can feel the fast-flowing water tug at your bike.

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Just when you think the mud is over for the day:

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We reached a bridge that didn’t survive a recent flood and was temporarily replaced by a dirt bridge. A sign nearby stated “road closed”. I’m glad we could still get through. It would have been a hell of a detour.

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And so our day finally ended at 4:30pm. It took us 7 hours to ride 87km; 2 hours more than what it took a bunch of dudes on pigs to do in the dry. Granted, we also added a smidgeon of Lahana’s Pass. Lesson: Take account of the weather. Noted. We decided to shift the infamous Bastervoed Pass to one of the later days, giving the road a chance to dry as much as it can over the next few days of sunny-forecasted weather.

Some well-deserved drinks:
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We had a hearty supper of pies, mash and veggies. There was no room left for dessert or starters tonight. We were all in bed by 8pm; absolutely knackered. So much for the short rest day!
 
Great ride report! Makes me want to go.
 
Looks tricky!
We rode the TTT section after it snowed a day or two before. Was tricky in spots, but not half as bad as what you guys had to contend with.
 
Great Ride Report Zanie, thanks for making the effort.

Rhodes area is dual sport heaven.
 
Superbly-understated eloquence : I love your ironic sub-commentary.

A wet autumn ride in those mountains on those perennially-shape-shifting roads is never to be trifled with. Loving this big-brick-chowing travelogue...!
 
Lekker to see you back here Zanie and great RR, thanks.

Subscribed
 
Awesome RR, thank you. Will watch the clips on the bigger screen later....deserved.
 
The guys were doing the full mud pit wrestle. Without the girls. Go figure. Stick a mountain in a story and things start going broke.

;)
:LOL: :ROFLMAO:
 
I was hoping you'd write this one up. Thanks so much.

Parklands sand will be a doddle after this. 😉
 
Day 4 (18 April 2022): Otto du Plessis Pass (and many other passes)

Key statistics:

Distance: 331 km
Time: 9h41
Speed: 34 km/h (total) or 48 km/h (moving)

Video of day 4:


Breakfast was at the what-became-usual 8am time, but today we got going a bit earlier: by 8:30. Since there’s no fuel in Rhodes, we first had to head to Barkley East. It’s only 60km away, so it seems like no big deal. Sure. If it was normal gravel highway. Yet the road is very twisty, has countless potholes, and is interspersed with slightly muddy ruts or dry ruts with ridges, which can throw you (and your mojo) if you hit it at a weird angle. Our approach throughout this whole trip was to go slow and safe. As Lance reminded us plenty of times: “Your favourite hospital is 1000km away”. It took us 1.5 hours to ride those 60km…

Remo at Bell River Bridge:
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Some scenery and blue sky (yay!):
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Peter and Kim at Kraai River Bridge:
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Kim and I both rode with fuel bladders, just in case we didn’t make it to Barkley East, since we didn’t fuel up yesterday. Kim needed an on-route refuel. I made it to Barkley East with 260km on the tank. My bike can do 300 km on its 10 litre tank on a good day (any day which excludes highway).

We were a bit worried about the day’s distance of 330km, given our track record of 7 hours for 87km. Yet that included rain. Today promised to be a lot more pleasant from a weather perspective. In fact, Lance felt so optimistic about our prospects that he decided we could try one of his side quests. Things went south almost immediately.

This is the enigma of the Eastern Cape: you have a perfectly beautiful road, with no sign of trouble, and then all of a sudden, this:

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Guinea pig Remo went forth and conquered!

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Kim and I both managed to get through relatively trouble-free, thanks to the light(ish) bikes.

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Peter had his misgivings about the muck, so decided to try edging past it on the rocky slope. That didn’t work too well.

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The edge was actually the sloppiest of the lot.

Where to now?
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Guinea pig Remo turned into muscle reinforcement (Lance still couldn’t use his arm properly):

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We finally made it and were back on a good-looking road (without mud makeup).

Gorgeous colours:
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Side quest pass, to remain anonymous for reasons that will soon become obvious:

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Once back in the valley, it was bath time. There was no way your boots were coming out of the experience dry.

Crossing 1:
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Crossing 2 (note the fast-flowing water):
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Crossing 3:
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Crossing 4:
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Crossing 5 (wet, wet, wet!):
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Crossing 6:
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Crossing 7:
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And more uncaptured crossings!

Some eye-candy in recompense for the wet boots:

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At some point in distant history, this road warranted road signs…

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…and some sections looked positively manicured!

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I blame these:
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Yet, peppered throughout the valley, were hints of what was to come:

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All of a sudden, I was putting full faith in my metal steed, as a rocky hill turned to stairs! I’m not good at choosing lines. But sometimes I surprise myself by clinging on while the bike does its bucking thing. Behind me, I heard: “Well done!” Likewise. I wouldn’t want to take a 790 up there!

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This time our guinea pig got stuck. But he managed to unstick himself by rolling back and trying some momentum over the step.

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A combo of short legs plus off-camber was Kim’s downfall – literally.

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Beautiful place to “buy a plot”. Kim chose well.

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Although rather intimidating to get going again:

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Peter took Kim’s bike up:
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View of the stairs:
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Then Peter tried bike gym in “hard” mode (i.e. heavier bike):

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No issue for the skilled!

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We had a very brief respite on semi-normal road. Did you think it was over? Not by a long shot…

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Day 4 continued

The next section was of the stop-and-stare sort. No steps. Just lots and lot and lots and lots of rocks. Peter’s chirp: “Roof of Africa is nowhere near finished.”

Our valiant guinea pig did his duty. Poor guy. No-one was near when he fell, so he had to self-extricate. Remo’s foot got crushed between the bike and a very sharp rock. Thankfully he purchased MX boots just before the trip (our little bike WhatsApp group nagged him about this point). His foot was apparently quite painful, but he said something would have been broken or bust if not for those boots.

I tried to ride the “hill of doom”, but the hanging-on-to-a-bucking-bike strategy was not going to work here. You need skill of a level that I sadly lack. At least my fall was of the relatively graceful and no pain variety.

Two downed bikes (me in foreground; Remo in background):

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Lance asked whether I’d be able to get going again. Me: “I don't know if I'll get enough momentum going again.” Lance: “Neither do I, so you can stay here and push my bike up.” Funny guy.

Very much above my pay grade:
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Lance first took my Rally up; giving him time to scout the route for his tanker.

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This might be the best line…if we remove the big rocks here, and here, and here and here and here!

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One out the way. Only 300 more to go.

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Choosing a line for the 790:
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After yesterday’s aberration from the norm, Lance’s mojo was well and truly back. He styled it up the hill!

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Rocks were sent flying:
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Kim did the sensible thing and handed her bike over to Peter to take up the hill. Kim was still recovering after doing a proper number on her knee in a dirt biking spill six months earlier. She tore every ligament and cartilaginous scaffolding you can think of, and even some you couldn’t think of: ACL, MCL, PCL and meniscus.

Last bike up was Peter’s Yammie. He first took a horizontal detour near a bush. Lance’s chirp: “That sounded expensive.”

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You know a lot of time was spent by all on this hill, considering the ratio of biker kit vs civvies:

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Big bikes = earth-moving equipment!

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Remo ready to lend a helping hand, if required:

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Finally we were all at the top. Our trials were over! Or were they? We hit a locked gate…

There was no way in hell we wanted to go back down that hill. Kim, Peter and I missioned to the nearest farm house we spotted, which was not far from the offending gate, to check whether anyone could release us from our predicament. No-one was home. The place had been turned into a temporary building site, due to massive renovations. Yet no builders were present. It was a public holiday. We also hadn’t seen any other buildings on this side of the hill of doom.

By the time the three of us returned, a solution had been found. The barbed wire from the fence could be unwrapped from a nearby fence post. Obviously it was duly rewrapped and secured. I wonder whether it had been done before, since you usually don’t find convenient wire ends. Regardless, I’m glad we didn’t have to head back.

That little side-quest cost us 2.5 hours! It was now 1pm and we had only covered a third of the day’s distance.

Thankfully most remaining passes on our route were easy riding.

Greyling’s Pass:
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Killian’s Pass (not pictured) and Barker’s Nek Pass:
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Other bits of interest included some initial mud puddles…

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…a grey church in Rossouw (we also spotted an old Telkom payphone in this town!)…

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…a bovine road block…

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…lovely autumn trees…

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…old stone buildings…

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…and vistas.

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Everything was going ok, until we got closer to our Ben 10 pass for the day: Otto du Plessis Pass. The pass itself was fine. The run-up to it wasn’t.

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It wasn’t just mud. There was clay. Nasty stuff. Kim took a tumble on a steep, clay slope. Peter was worried about Kim and her knee. I also think “hangry” played a role in their decision to turn back and take the easier option back to Rhodes. Those two need sustenance or we all face the consequences! In hindsight, it was good that Kim didn’t do the rest of the day’s planned route. The black mud from the TTT rain day is one thing. Clay is another.

I had my most painful tip-over of the trip here. Going horizontal was fine. Having my foot squished by my bike was not. Remo tried to help, but all he managed to do was tip the bike in such a way that it added more pressure onto my foot. It was bloody painful! Lance, hearing my yells through the comms, turned around and headed back. The moment he lifted my bike, the pain disappeared magically. No lasting harm done. Again, thanks – I’m sure – to the MX boots.

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The rest of the run-up to the pass was a right balls-up. It looked like a massive herd of cows used it as a thoroughfare, churning it into slop. It wasn’t long before I was horizontal again. Lance had to rescue my bike from that predicament. I didn’t feel too inclined to try to ride out of that mess.

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Lance needed a break after riding two bikes through that particularly hairy section.

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More mess, but do-able:

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Wet and churned-up clay is nasty stuff:

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The pass is somewhere up ahead:

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More muck:

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The road turned into a river at one point:

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And then there was an actual river:

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Don’t bring a fancy 4x4 here, unless you are ok with scratches.

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There were some rocky bits, but it was a non-event compared with the hill of doom earlier today.

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On the pass:

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Groovy:
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We refuelled again in Barkley East, before tackling the last 60km to Rhodes. We were in for some night riding. As the sun set, nature upped the ante; adding some dassies and hares. I was almost certain that I flattened a dassie – it was that close – but Lance told me I just missed it.

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We managed the Barkley East to Rhodes stretch in 1h10 this time, rather than the 1h30 it took this morning. Peter and Kim had actually arrived only 30 minutes ahead of us. Kim arranged to delay supper, so that we had time to shower and undress before our meal of butter chicken curry and veggies, followed by some “spiced pudding” – a more interesting version of something vaguely resembling malva pudding.

What an interesting day! Mud seems to be the common denominator with yesterday. The rocks were new. What will tomorrow hold?
 

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