The ride carries on fairly uneventfully and ends in a steep twisty descent. Halfway down a turn, Hooligan suddenly starts coughing and stuttering, and then dies. Thank goodness I’m in a low gear as the back wheel immediately locks up into a small skid. I turn the petcock to Reserve and open the choke, but Hooligan wants none of this starting business. I can’t imagine that he should need reserve either, as the massive tank is still probably half full. I try again a few times and then stop, worried about flooding the carburettor and killing the battery. Keith stops next to me and makes a few suggestions, but nothing works. Finally he instructs me to get onto his KLR and see whether my feet can touch ground.
I gingerly swing onto his KLR and stand on tippy toe. This is apparently enough ground contact as far as Keith is concerned, and he tells me to ride the bike down. I’m terrified of dropping the bike, and confused by all the blinking lights - the KLR dashboard resembles a Boeing cockpit. Keith tells me how to start and stop the bike, and I nervously push off. The throttle is not as sticky as the Hooligan’s, and every tiny movement makes the bike twitch and jump. I crawl down the steep bends like a very newbie bike rider, with jerks and starts.
Suddenly Keith comes roaring along on the Hooligan and shows me to pull over, which I do with alacrity. Somehow he had gotten Hooligan going again, and I could continue on my stodgy way. Hooligan behaved himself well after this except when we reached the bottom, after a tight turn and river crossing he started to sputter again, but I just opened the choke and twisted the throttle, and the sputtering stopped. Later on Keith told me it might have been a blockage in the fuel pipe, but once it was cleared there were no more issues with the bike.
At Patensie I fill up the Hooligan's monstrous tank. Keith and Kai fill up at Hankey, so they can make the next stop. Keith also stops to take a photo of the biggest sun dial for Anwar.
Then, due to time constraints, we head for the N2 and gun it to George. The scenery is still beautiful, but it is windy and not too much fun. We stop at Stormsrivier to fill up on fuel and hot MacD chippies - one of the few things I'll eat there. A 4x4 pulls into the fuel station as well, and Keith speculates that it looks like Trygve Roberts, who films and maintains the Mountain Passes of SA website.
When I awkwardly paddle backwards to turn around to leave, two men walk up with admiring glances, exclaiming about the large tank on Hooligan and how this is the way a bike should be set up. We chat for a moment and I try not to rush, aware that Keith and Kai are waiting for me at the exit. Keith generously includes a small detour for us to ride a closed and unmaintained road, featured on Trygve's site. It is absolutely beautiful. Bloukrans?
Timed group selfie
No, I don't know what I'm doing either.
We carry on towards Groot Brak at a fast pace. When we reach Knysna, dusk starts to fall as we hit the 7 Passes Road. We carry on on it for a while, until Keith decides there's no point, as we can't admire the views, and we exit near George and fly towards Groot Brak. Along the way, we stop for Keith to deliver something to someone... talk about good service! We reach Groot Brak in the dark, and thankfully find our guest house for the night. Anwar apparently found the place on a Go Daddy deal or some such, and it is excellent. The rooms are huge and I turn up the aircon to the max, frozen to the bone.
Sonja stops by to say hallo and, too tired to go out for dinner, we order room service, a mixture of toasted sandwiches, calamari and chicken strips and other finger foods. It is delicious and barely touches sides. We visit deep into the night and then head off to sleep. I'm a little relieved to have the big double bed to myself. I was supposed to share a room with twin beds with Anwar, but there was a mix-up.
I sleep a log and probably snore like a banshee, and wake up early and refreshed. We have a fantastic breakfast and the owner of the establishment, a microlight pilot, comes to greet Keith who is also one.
Then we head off on the last leg of our journey.