Fog me, is that Sani's slippery brother?

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Kaboef

Grey Hound
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
7,412
Reaction score
1,667
Bike
KTM 950 Adventure S
While you visit the in-laws for 2 weeks, there are a lot of things to keep a man busy. You can watch sport with your father-in-law, or play some tennis, sleep late, paint, read, be helpful around the house, or take the car for a scenic cruise.

None of which I did, of course.

Cabin fever. It happens to the best of us, I guess. Imagine spending 15 days at your in-laws in the Eastern Cape, the magnificent riding of the Transkei and Lesotho literally on your doorstep, and you don’t have a bike.

So when the missus granted me leave of absence for 4 days to go ride me boney and drink beer, I gracefully accepted. I knew she and little Kaboefie would be taken excellent care of by her mom and dad, and knowing the effect little babies have on grandparents I guessed they would only start realising I’m gone after about 3 days.

Before we left home, I had little time to prep the bike. I knew that I needed to get it done before we leave, so I drew up a list of very urgent things to do on the bike. I then tossed that list aside and started drinking beer and fixed the dining room chairs instead. Go with what feels good, I always say…




Little Kaboefie having a laugh at my woodworking skills.




Hitting the road out of Somerset West. We took the Blou Makou because, according to the Missus, the bakkie bounces too much. And apparently it smells like “’n dooie bakkie”… Go figure.




After departing from Somerset-West, and halfway sleepover in Beaufort West, we arrived via Somerset-East in Fort Beaufort. Thank goodness I’m not dyslexic, or this trip could have taken us waaaaaaayy longer.


Finally getting a chance to prep the bike. The Blou Makou doubling as support vehicle and bar.






I took a quick shakedown ride to Port Alfred to look at the famous bridge.
Everything seemed to be in order, except the state of wear of my rear Michelin Desert. I would have to go easy on the X’s ear.






We were treated to a bit of rain one early evening, and the colours in the sky were fantastic. No photoshop, no nothing. But I really need a tripod.





Meanwhile, Metaljockey and I were planning the trip. He’s been to Lesotho a couple of times, and I was very glad when he took it upon himself to work out a route. The day before the trip started, Michnus also decided to join. Good craic!

Little Kaboefie looking absolutely gutted about the fact that he has to stay at home again. Patience, young Skywalker.


Day 1:

So I left at sparrow’s fart on Sunday morning, needing to get to Stutterheim at 07:00 to meet Michnus and Metaljockey there. They were coming from East London.

MJ


Michnus


We pulled into the service station at exactly the same time. Right when we were about to depart, Michnus realised that his Dakar’s rear brake was fried. We were expecting a shitload of rain for the trip, and it quickly became obvious that only a front brake down a muddy descent won’t work so well. So Michnus rode back home to fetch his 1200, while Metaljockey and I pushed on, agreeing to meet him in Ugie.

We made good time, taking dirt (R352) to Tsomo and then via All Saints Neck to Ngcobo and then Ugie.







We pulled in at the nearest watering hole in Ugie and had some Milk of Amnesia while we waited for Michnus. The clouds were building up in the north and random thunder reminder us of the terrible weather that was predicted for the area that we were heading towards.




It wasn’t long before Michnus arrived, having obviously twisted the pig’s ear quite a fair bit.




We quickly had a bite to eat, and then we hit the dirt road running north from Ugie towards Bastervoetpad. A light drizzle started coming down. Now, right about here Metaljockey must have decided that he didn’t enjoy our company that much and that he would rather go home, because he promptly ran off the road on one blind corner and crashed his XChallenge.



Worse was that none of us had a hip flask with some slangbyt to calm the frayed nerves. I know, an amateurish mistake to make. Looking from the entry to the corner, you can see MJ’s attempt to shed some speed, but the slippery road and the rocks in the gully was not to be fooled so easily.


Being none the worse for wear except for a bruised knee, MJ took stock of the bike. The XC did not get off quite so lightly, with some heavy bruising, broken subframe and a hole in the clutch cover. Michnus rode out to within cellphone range to call MJ’s wife to bring the trailer, while I patched the hole in the engine. MJ then gave us his GPS and explained the route, after which he got on his wounded bike and reluctantly headed back to Ugie. Bummer of a way to end his trip.
Michnus and I decided to push on. Here I must extent my gratitude to Michnus. You could easily have gone to assist your brother-in-law in getting him and the bike home, but you decided to go on. Thanks, I appreciate that.

We headed onto Bastervoetpad through intermittent rain. It was muddy as hell, but spectacular.













The gods played marbles here a long time ago.


We continued to work our way north towards Lesotho, going up and down Lundeans neck while the fine rain misted up my Aria to the point where I had to guess where I’m riding. A-rai waar jy ry.


We hit the Telle Bridge border post at about 17:00. We were tired, behind schedule, dirty, wet, and hungry. But there were negatives as well: we still had to ride 150km through Lesotho in the rain at dusk to get to our overnight destination.


We zipped our rain suits up tight and headed down the A2 towards Mohale’s Hoek. Here we filled up and continued towards Mafeteng and Motsekuoa. Riding in the dark in an African country while you can’t see shit through your fogged-up visor isn’t fun. I started playing the “count-down” game, checking my tripmeter and GPS and wondering when the tar will run out and when we will be forced to battle our way through mud in the dark. The tar ran on smoothly under my front wheel while I blessed every kilometre that we drew closer to our destination. 30km’s from the finish, we took a turnoff from the A2, and 7km from the finish we left the tar and hit the mud. It was pitch dark, and we idled and slid our bikes through the mud in the direction of Malealea lodge. After one particularly hair-raising descent, we saw the lights in the distance and knew that this close to the end one of us would probably fall and break our necks. But the danger passed and we pulled into Malealea Lodge like conquering Spaniards. We promply shed our wet gear and headed to the dining room to see what we could get to eat. Ha! Curry lamb stew, rice, and pees! With pudding!

After washing it all down with a few beers and some Jack, we hit the sack. Roughly 700km’s for the day.

 
Nice so far. Bastervoetpad looks great!
 
Hel dit is mooi berge. Is dit die Bastervoetpad? Waar is dit? Sal jy omgee om vir my die GPS track te mail?
 
Day 2:

The next morning I had the presence of mind to take some peechas of Malealea Lodge. Splendid place for a Wilddog Bash, Michnus and I reckoned….







My tyre showing signs of strain...




We decided to abandon our initial plan of taking cattle tracks to Semonkong. The rain lifted periodically, but the horizon was heavy with ominous clouds, and seeing that we already struggled the night before in the mud, and that we could ill afford to get stuck and loose a day, we decided to rather head on south on some better gravel to see what Lesotho had to offer.

Coming up the slippery slope of the night before







This was some of it.









The women till the fields, the boys herd the cattle, but what do the men do? Probably sit in the house, drink beer, and tell tall tales all day long. Where do I sign up?






State of the art agricultural machines








We struck that tar at Mohale’s Hoek again. Here we had to stop to replace a bolt that rattled out of my bike. I hear all you KLR riders laughing already.






We filled up and bought 2 big zamaleks and looked for somewhere to enjoy our liquid lunch. Michnus spotted a bridge and we turned off and parked under it. The clouds opened with a vengeance, but we were as happy as pigs in shit. Dry, some biltong, and some beers.  We waited for the worst of the downpour to pass.








The ORIGINAL Forum sticker.





I saw this from the road, and had to go take a look.



Villa Maria church. Beautiful.











As we left, these young 'uns shouted after us: "Make a slide, make a slide!!"  ;D



We followed the Senqu river until Moont Moorosi.







Here we booked into the Mount Moorosi Chalets. That building on the left is the reception, the administration, the dining room, the bar, and the staff quarters. We each got our own chalet, as they charge per person, nor per person sharing. Weird, but we didn’t complain.





We decided to unpack and then go explore the area. We had the whole afternoon ahead of us. But first we had to drink some beer.





They say that a journey of a thousand miles cannot begin before the completion of the first beer. Or the one after that. So we did the honourable thing and drank another beer or two, watching the clouds again gathering their strength over the mountains. Just as we were finishing beer number 4, the heavens opened, and we were forced to reluctantly abandon our plans of exploring the area and get another round of beers. It was torture, but being men of stout heart and strong mind, we had to admit defeat to the rain. And then we drank to that.





We shot the breeze and camped our on the stoep while our hostess, Malebogang, served us complimentary vetkoek every now and then.



The children also took shelter under the porch, and so did the dog.







Later on some Dutch medical students arrived, and after dinner we sat around the table and had a real jolly time, the humour and jokes coming thick and fast.





We went to bed after we exhausted almost all the beers. A trip isn't always about just the ride. It's about the places in between.
 
nice R R  :thumleft:
 
Ag nee man!
Nou juik my hol om weer vir 'n slag in daai wereld te kom. . .
In die mean time sit ek maar hier op kantoor en drool !  :drif:
 
Day 3:

I was up early the next morning, woken by birds nesting in my chalet’s thatch roof.






We had to get cross the border today if we wanted to reach Port St John, as was the plan. We followed a little river that provided us with spectacular riding.










We were heading towards Qacha’s Neck. We kept climbing, the scenery constantly changing to showcase Mother Nature’s great power in forming mountains and then eroding them. Makes you feel very small and it puts the fleetingness of our hurried existence into perspective. We are but a fleeting second to these mountains. They don’t even notice our passing.







The trail got steeper and more interesting the further we climbed.







Michnus traversing a particularly riveting section with rocks on the one side and an abyss on the other. Get it wrong here and you need wings.



We reached Mothusi. Now, since we started the trip we’ve been pondering the possibility of exiting Lesotho via Ongeluksnek. We’ve asked the locals about the road, and the replies ranged from “impassable” to “doable in a 4 x 4”. T4A puts it this way: “Very bad road. Experienced 4wd drivers only”.

Given the muddy roads, our time constraints, my bald rear tyre and the fact that we did not know the state of the road, we decided that the sensible and prudent thing to do was to head on to Qachas Nek. Which is why we decided against it.

Instead we took the turnoff to Ongeluksnek. And what a decision it turned out to be!

We travelled a bit, and then reached the top of the plateau, the same height as Sani top. Suddenly the scenery opened up and we found ourselves in a valley with a lake, stretching away into the distance.






Birds waded in the water, and wild horses roamed the grassy plains.










There are no houses here, I guess it is probably too high and snows in badly in the winter. Given the remoteness of this plateau, help will take quite a while to get here. That is if they can negotiate the road, which must be slippery as a motherf*cker in the winter.


But now, we were absolutely blown away by the beauty of it.


We continued onwards towards Ongeluksnek proper, hoping that the mud would not get any worse.  And then we saw this.




We were on top of the world, looking down on the clouds towards the Eastern Cape and KZN. We took off our helmets and the wind blowing from the valley of horses behind us whistled around our ears as we gazed in rapt wonder at this spectacle.










This is why I ride bikes. This, right here, made my trip. Here, in a place like this, life suddenly made sense for a while.

We took our leave and descended down the Ongeluksnek.





The mud didn’t disappoint. We were slipping this way and that, all the while rubbernecking the dizzying dropoffs that waited for an unwary rider.  After a couple of switchbacks, the road levelled out to a degree, and here the mudmonster lay in wait for us. He had drunk the night before, and we were disturbing him while he slept off his hangover. He wasn’t pleased.













As we approached the SA border post, it dawned on me that we never saw a Lesotho border post. Probably because the road is used so little. Anyway, we stamped back into the Republic and headed on down to Matatiele on the worst potholed road I have had the pleasure of shortening my spine.





We ate a bit in Matatiele, and then hit the backroads, following the Kinira river all the way to Mount Frere. This road isn’t shown in T4A, and they are tarring it as we speak.  Michnus can probably send the tracks to someone if you are interested, I’m too dumb to do it.






The Kinira river in flood.



Spoiling all the fun…





Just outside Mount Frere we took the dirt again to Tabankulu. Fantastic road.

Riding through forests




Here the mist caught up with us.







We finally reached the tar road running from Flagstaff to Lusikisiki. It was pissing with rain. Knowing what lay ahead, I braced myself for again riding on gut feel alone, because I KNEW that my shitty Arai visor will mist up the moment I close the damn thing. And so I happened, and I was forced the sometimes ride with my visor open, the raindrops hitting dents into my eyeballs, and at other times taking my left glove off and cleaning the visor with toiletpaper stashed on top of my speedometer unit. Michnus was having a jolly old time with his spiffy Uvex visor – totally fog proof.





After negotiating the lekker twisties into Port St Johns, we pulled in to the Jungle Monkey’s backpackers lodge for the evening.







We had a few beers, smoked in Rome what the Romans do, and enjoyed the hospitality of the place.

We then went to bed and was gobbled up by the mozzies.
 
Very lekekr RR Kaboef looks like a lovely place to ride tell Michnus to post the route to download.
 
Day 4:
The next morning.











Upon pulling out of Jungle Monkeys, my bike caught a sudden fit of narcolepsy and fell down on its side for a quick nap.
:biggrin:


We took our leave and went up to the airfield on top of this cliff.




And this is what we saw.










After that, we hit the tar to Mthatha, were we said our goodbyes over a beer and some salad, and Michnus left for East London while I took the road to All Saints Neck, Ngcobo, Cofimvaba, Cathcart, and eventually pulled into the in-laws driveway in Fort Beaufort at about 16:00.


Total distance: 1710km



And look, my tyre lasted!



Now it’s ready for an honorary burnout before I fit the crisp new Desert waiting in my garage.



While this trip started out badly, I'm glad we pushed on despite MJ's off and the certainty of heavy rain. I stopped counting the number of times we had to put our rainsuits on and then take it off again. The habit of riding in the dark in Africa is something I promise myself every time that I wont do ever again, but if you have no choice, and ride within your limits, it can actually make for a very memorable experience. But it's dangerous, especially if it rains.

We had to abandon the initial idea we had of taking the hard way through the mountains to the other side of Lesotho. But that did not detract from the enjoyment of the trip. Instead, it offerred us the chance to spend an afternoon in the company of the people of this little country. That is also what makes a trip special. Dont ride too much. Stop when you feel like it. After all, a trip is a holiday, and should be approached with a spirit of relaxation. I've done a 5000km trip in 8days, and while it was great fun, I ended up feeling cheated in the end, because all we did was ride from dawn to dusk.

Thanks to MJ and Michus for the company, and hats off to Michnus for riding that 1200 like poetry in motion. I've only seen one other guy ride a 1200 as well as Michnus, and that is Ama ride ride. Truly a beautiful thing to behold.

Kaboef out.
 
Many thanks Kaboef.
I really enjoyed the ironic writing.
I am bookmarking this report for reference should I go to that area.
MJ set off with almost a road tyre to do that route!
 
Wow !  Some awesome views!  Keep it comming...   :thumleft:
Yes it would be interesting to see the route.  :ricky:
 
Fantastiese trip! Lekker report as well Kaboef. The bikes and the scenery look ultra cool, and with your gay club baardjie and Michnus/ pornostar hair you two are quite the couple. Well done to everything. Sympathy for the early retirement, MJ, but it does prove the old adage that it can actually happen to the best of riders.
 
enjoyed reading this RR, thx K :thumleft:

sumtimes these spur of the moment trips can be the best..
 
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