If Pigs might Fly.....

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Rat Man

Pack Dog
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
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Bike
Honda CRF-1000L Africa Twin
.....they certainly would like to hang out at the birding mecca of Wakkerstroom.
 

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I had attempted this trip before, but only partially completed it due major tyre trouble. I have not had another opportunity for over a year, mostly because of health issues and the small matter of getting married, but I got the green light to go as SWAMBO was pulling a work weekend, and I did not want to hang around town moping!
From a previous trip, I had a little taste of the amazing scenery and riding conditions, so I thought it was high time for me to pull my finger and make this trip report worthy. Over 6 years on the forum, and not one ride report, is really poor form.
So the idea was too travel to Wakkerstroom on as much dirt road as possible, and squeeze in some Battlefields Tourism.
 

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Last attempt of this trip I was on my trusty 800, I loved that bike, but the road I travelled gave it a bloody mouth. This trip will be my first overnighter with my newly neglected friend Ratpig, and we had some bonding to do. No one was available to join me on the ride, but I was secretly chuffed about that, I prefer riding on my own at my own pace.
 

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Leaving  Richard’s Bay nice and early in the morning and hit the railway service roads to Ulundi, past the imfamous township of Nseleni. Infamous because there are some stories of the Nseleni Lake Crocodiles being the biggest in Zululand near the Nseleni bridge, where it is rumoured that gangstas drop the bodies over to be “taken care of” by the crocs!
Zululand is very dry, and not much maintenance has been done. So all focus was on dodging pot holes, corrugations, goats, donkeys and stuffed up old FTB’s (FriggenToyotaBakkies) that love to come around a corner on your side of the road. Still there were some magic moments on the road.
 

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Eventually you get dumped on to a tar road South of Ulundi. Ulundi, which is a typical Zululand magisterial town, I was to continue on the railway road, and things were going to get really good, but I popped into the ULUNDI Battelfield memorial (British vs Zulu). Very well maintained, and has it’s own caretaker, which I found surprising. ULUNDI is the Heartland and cultural soul of Zululand. Interesting white elephant in Ulundi, The Prince Mangasutu Buthelezi Airport. Twice the size of Richards Bay Airport, with probably an 8th of the air traffic….go figure!

Anyway on to more exciting things, the riding was amazing on the service road, tunnels, bridges, twists & turns, valleys and stunning scenery. Ratpig seems to just loves this and we begin to bond.
Before you know it the road meets up on the tar to Vryheid, I squeeze in a quick lunch of last night’s braai oorskiet (chops and braai broodjies for those that want the detail) then I head to town where I filled up for part 2 of the day’s journey. The riding around the Balele mountains is just stunning. I would love to own land round here. Beautiful farmland. Beautiful roads.  I did a quick detour (40km) to the BloodRiviers Poort Battle Memorial (not to be mistaken with the Battle of Blood River Monument…more on this later). The memorial was disappointing, just a locked gate and a stone cairn, where the bronze plaque has been stolen. Don’t know much about this, other than the road was super fun….fast and open to drive.

 

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From there it was on the way to Utrecht via the  Knight’s Pass into the town and then back out another pass out towards Groenvlei…..up and down the Balele Mountains, what more could you ask for.
You get the most amazing views from the top of the passes..
 

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The pass out was in a terrible state, and I had a few encounters with FTB’s that got the adrenalin pumping.  At one stage I could not get any traction on the rear, with the rock and corrugation. I think this is what led to the demise of the 800 on the last time I attempted this trip. Once you get beyond this Basaltic cobble road there is some pleasant road to Groenvlei (A big clinic in the middle of nowhere). Groenvlei into Wakkerstoom past Oshoek, is over in a flash.
 

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Stayed at the Rustic Rose Guesthouse, which has been recently opened which was very comfortable and hospitable. Went for a walk round town, then came back to the Rose to watch the rugga (bokke v world XV) with the land lord who is a very passionate rugby supporter. Had the best Chicken Mayo Toasted Sarm, I have ever had.
After the rugby, sat and drank a couple of beers and chatted for a while, then went to wash off the dust and slept very well. Wakkerstroom is cold if you have been living in Richards Bay for some time.
Next morning, coffee and lekker breakfast, then off on the next leg. I strongly recommend the Rustic Rose to any potential Wilddogs visiting Wakkerstroom.
Ratpig was not keen to start in the cold weather, but once he got going there was no stopping the Wild Boar. Drove around Zaaihoek Dam, then down to the escarpment to the Coalfields?hinterland of Northern KZN. Even though it is smoggy you could see all the way to Newcastle which is 50km away. The roads were brilliant, open corners, good surface, and minimal livestock. Ratpig and I were on form!
 

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The next stop was at the Battle of Blood River Monument. There are a few volunteers keeping the place in order and open to the public, and doing a good job of it. The entrance is a cool R50 pp, but it was worth it. The roads to get there are also fantastic especially from Dundee side. If you are in the area go visit. I had to leave early on the “tour” but I got the idea that many impi’s perished there!
They have replicated the Laager in full size bronze statues.
 

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From there it was a push home. I chose to do the Babanango and Melmoth Passes home, I was a bit concerned about my tyre which was looking threadbare, but it did not stop me having fun in the corners. For any Tar Road junkies, I urge you to drive between Babanango and Melmoth….not for the fainthearted. As I dropped into the Coastal flats from Melmoth the temperatures soared to 36C, and this is supposed to be winter. I was happy to get home in one piece, and thoroughly enjoyed my little adventure, I hope you also enjoyed it.

Over and Out Ratman and RatPig!! :snorting: :snorting:

Distances:
Day 1 410km, 90% Dirt
Day 2 380km, 50% Dirt
Gear Review:-

Bike: BMW 1150GSA- There is a reason this bike is legendry, it absorbed everything I threw at it, a lot of hard rocky roads, and it soaked it all up (my 800 was a little worse for wear). I really like 1st and 2nd gear, good grunt, and even better decompression when going down steep descents. Not bad for a 12 year old bike with almost 80k km on it!

Luggage: Enduristan Monsoon bags- Light, strong and keeps the dust out

GPS: Garmin Oregan 450- Light, tough, full functionality, and screen ok if you are not short sighted 

Boots: Forma Adventure- Comfy and supple with great ankle support, but if you are on the pegs for a long time, your feet begin to fatigue

Kit: BMW Rallye Pro 2-Just awesome…worth spending all the bucks

Leatt neck Brace- comfy, but still battle with vision, when swinging helmet around

Helmet: Uvex Enduro- does everything it should, but not as quiet, comfy or light as my Shoei Hornet

Grip Buddies: You get them from Bike AlanPE, they take some getting used to because your handles become much bigger, but I have no hand fatigue or blisters, which I used to always have without them

Camera: Sony Cybershot…makes no difference, I am the world’s worst photographer
 

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Every time I see an elebenfiddy Adventure, I think hmmmmm.  Nice trip that, although Dundee and environs is interesting on weekends and month end.
 
The trick is to stay off the beaten track! However there was much dodging of goats and goat herders ;)
 
Dorsland said:
Every time I see an elebenfiddy Adventure, I think hmmmmm.  Nice trip that, although Dundee and environs is interesting on weekends and month end.

Ek het daai selle probleem.....
Sal erens een in die garage moet trek.....
 
Noneking said:
Dorsland said:
Every time I see an elebenfiddy Adventure, I think hmmmmm.  Nice trip that, although Dundee and environs is interesting on weekends and month end.

Ek het daai selle probleem.....
Sal erens een in die garage moet trek.....

And I was drooling over your LC and HP2  :3some:
 
BMWPE said:
Nice RR   :thumleft:
Thanks for sharing
Thanks K, your tip on the grip buddies was well worth it :thumleft:
 
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