Kaokoland: a perspective from a pink bike

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Day 4 continued

Back on dry land, Lance was certain that we were meant to take a more obscure path. Duncan objected when he saw the reeds. It meant one of two things: boggy conditions or elephants! Oubones and Duncan decided to keep to the ‘main road’.

47980584982_c8d63fcdfe_b.jpg


Pete and I continued to follow Lance, and found neither grey mammals nor green marshes.

47980578878_3bb64e18bd_b.jpg


What we found instead was a last remnant of the old Kunene road!

47980584912_44a20482f9_b.jpg


47980578818_0802b378b2_b.jpg


Lance was bounced off the road to the left here:
47980584822_d9eecd3e6a_b.jpg


A check-in by Lance at a split: “You ok with following this old road?” A unanimous: “Yes!”

47980578713_cfc81733c6_b.jpg


It used to take people one to two days to traverse this road. My parents did it by 4x4 and needed a stiff brandy to calm the nerves.

If you dig on this forum, you will find some RRs featuring the old road. Sadly, hardly any of it is left. The new road mostly follows the old road’s route, obliterating the older track in its wake. This section was a rare gem.

Photos don’t do the gradient justice:
47980578663_e917dba0a5_b.jpg


47980578633_cd81808e20_b.jpg


47980584682_b77be1970f_b.jpg


The Kunene River to the right:
47980631041_e271775bf1_b.jpg


47980584372_5ccb5277f1_b.jpg


47980578363_cdbbbaf37a_b.jpg


47980578293_a34bf8041d_b.jpg


The “wow” response!
47980584132_5219ac7d89_b.jpg


Hardy meant for us to take this route. We were soon joined by Craig, Abel, Hardy, Kobus and the air-con boxes. I assume that most of the rest missed out.

47980578023_6c8ebf6724_b.jpg


Both Lance and Ian went down to the river, but were called back due to the very real threat of crocodiles. These sneaky logs have a deadly burst of speed and have nabbed some people before.

Continuing on the old road:
47980578043_6fff9c7bb2_b.jpg


47980577913_abc24d3d54_b.jpg


We were advised to head to the new road when we could, because today would be a long day. We found the split…

47980583832_e5ec790614_b.jpg


…but decided to stick on the old road as long for as long as we could.

47980583727_9b06a9810b_b.jpg


47980630296_5ef55799dc_b.jpg


47980577663_e75ff70035_b.jpg


It didn’t take long before the old road was swallowed up by the new one.

47980583612_4f3e69099d_b.jpg


But we kept looking for the old road, taking random turn-offs during the search.

Seems legit?
47980583562_55965d8209_b.jpg


Pete was with us and in a similar frame of mind. He and Lance had a short sand excursion.

47980583557_01d763d3c3_b.jpg


And so it went, good / new road, followed by bits of old road…

47980577513_c44e238e5a_b.jpg


…back to the new road, etc.

47980630066_2281dcb90e_b.jpg


My closest call to a fall on this day actually happened on the new road. It still had some unexpected dongas, dips and rocks to throw at you when you least expect it. The road is like a roller-coaster, with very steep hills and dips. The gradient hides the wash-aways until the last moment.

I hit a good-sized rock on a mini-step and was flung forward over the handlebars. Lance said I was on my front wheel for a bit. I don’t know how, but I managed to hang on, with only some sore fingers to show for it (I ride with two fingers on each hand resting on my levers, as a rule).

The new road is obviously a health hazard! Time to find pieces of the old one again.

47980576638_394917654d_b.jpg


47980637111_94b5746da8_b.jpg


Back on the new one. Bugger!

47980629116_c4254a954d_b.jpg


Friendly locals:
47980583352_26f225fc1b_b.jpg


At least the new road still had water crossing obstacles.

47980628966_1cee4974df_b.jpg


47980576203_26508df375_b.jpg


47980576088_2181306793_b.jpg


The bank on the other side was steep and had a donga to the right. Some local kids were gesticulating wildly. We took it as a wave or the usual “make-your-bike-go-vroom!” action, but when considering the footage, it looked more like a “slow down!” wave. Later that day we found out why: a biker had hit earth hard in that donga.

47980575948_cd876f274a_b.jpg


Another piece of old road:
47980576003_ff8b6021f6_b.jpg


47980628536_2b6ec6c4e3_b.jpg


Back on the new one:
47980628326_ecb459b7e0_b.jpg


Still pretty:
47980575548_3fd662e608_b.jpg


We were less than 40 km from our destination of Epupa Falls when we spotted a sign that is surely irresistible to most bikers. It said “cold beer”. Sure enough, we spotted some of our crowd.

Gordon, Brian, Hennie R, Pete and Lance:
47980576793_509ce1e116_b.jpg


Oubones had a prime spot:
47980637306_644d94cb28_b.jpg


We decided to try some cold juice. In Kaokoland, this can cost upwards of R30 for one! This particular spot (owned by someone called Corrie, I think) was more reasonably priced.

Refreshment bliss:
47980575408_a379113342_b.jpg


Don’t turn your back on the water for too long:
47980629366_9947e3df52_h.jpg


There were interesting objects, both of the natural variety (such as this big tree)…
47980581527_e4e2f026bb_b.jpg


…and man-made.
47980575248_c64be9d3fb_b.jpg


It was here that we bumped into the riders of the Triumph and new Africa Twin. The guy on the Triumph was obviously having a bad day. He was the biker who had come short on the donga by the waving kids. The front end of his bike looked a bit sickly.

47980637226_65912fe363_b.jpg


Back on the road again, all refreshed:
47980581317_74f8323d59_b.jpg


47980627791_a3954a3b91_b.jpg


Excuse the lens flare from the GoPro lens protector:
47980574938_da011d9e26_b.jpg


Still hugging the Kunene:
47980627521_ba258b89e2_z.jpg


Beautiful scenery:
47980627496_d1f4405197_b.jpg


With a beautiful baobab:
47980574598_502f050042_b.jpg


47980580642_1d75749787_b.jpg


And then we arrived!

47980580602_fde106e990_b.jpg


Epupa Falls Lodge and Campsite:
47980627081_980f515b25_b.jpg


Pool and beer available at the end of the magical stairs:
47980574228_e2d45439a1_b.jpg


The Epupa Falls are visible from the deck of the camp restaurant / bar.

47980574153_c2c5bd7a42_b.jpg


But the best view is out the main gate…
47980580162_b83ddba3cd_b.jpg


…and around the back.
47980580112_57a5bf5c20_b.jpg


47980626721_ddc64eed85_b.jpg


47980579917_528a6c3198_b.jpg


47980579762_170d39d420_b.jpg


47980626431_10b0efc80b_z.jpg


47980579462_c5820f9d45_b.jpg


47980573373_8bce69714e_b.jpg


47980579562_e4c954eb27_b.jpg


Given the good facilities at the campsite, it was time for some bike TLC. I was worried about my air filter, given the state of the air filters I’ve seen from Duncan, Oubones and Kobus’s bikes. I needn’t have worried. Mine was still good to go.

47980579327_ed92a1e39f_b.jpg


Next was an oil change. I like doing my own, because that means that no washers go missing (looking at you, Lance!) and all bolts / nuts are tightened to Zanie-strength, i.e. I can loosen them again without stripping a bolt or my moer.

47980626096_e681a5c0e8_b.jpg


Lance got called in to be the official oil-container-holder (pic by Kobus):

47980572793_e0c7f9bc2a_b.jpg


The humidity was high next to the river, which meant uncomfortable heat. I did not touch the hot water tap of the shower.

Supper was a carboload smorgasbord: pasta bolognaise, served with bread. We were being prepped for survival. Tomorrow is our first shorter-distance day. Remember what I said about short-distance days?

The high humidity and heat also meant mozzies! Craig’s tent set-up seemed like a plan. For some reason he brought his own tent (Mr. Camel Man?).

47980579087_4896d51ba0_b.jpg


We used one of the Specialised Adventures tents, minus fly-sheet, for maximum possible air-condition.
 
Awesome. Thankyou. We were there many yeas ago, in 4x4. If only i had found adv biking then. We walked down river from the falls and swam in the river. Was young and dumb then. But it was a awesome hike down river
 
Thank you Zanie. This is absolutely great to read and see. You transport us there and bring back good 4x4 trip memories. It is of course much greater fun on a bike!
Looking forward to the rest.
 
Day 4 was my third favourite day of the trip  :ricky:
I found some videos covering most of the old D3700 along the Kunene. It looked like a real challenge back then:
[flash=900,506]https://www.youtube.com/v/CLVYEQDMLYk[/flash]
 
Great RR! These reports inspired me to get a DS bike and now I am busy overcoming my fear of sand... Your videos are awesome! Did you do the Wildcoast adventure ride?

Cheers Lars

Subscribed
 
Magic ride you guys.  :ricky: :ricky:
 
MRK Miller said:
Awesome. Thankyou. We were there many yeas ago, in 4x4. If only i had found adv biking then. We walked down river from the falls and swam in the river. Was young and dumb then. But it was a awesome hike down river

It's a good thing the crocodiles weren't hungry on that day!  :eek:

Lars said:
Great RR! These reports inspired me to get a DS bike and now I am busy overcoming my fear of sand... Your videos are awesome! Did you do the Wildcoast adventure ride?

Sand can indeed be conquered, but a small bike helps a lot with the conquering.  ;)

I'm not sure what you mean about the Wild Coast adventure ride? I haven't been there on an adventure bike (on my to-do list), but a bunch of us did go on the dirt bikes. It wasn't really a club / organised ride in the usual sense; just one person who did a block booking and then "found some friends". We spent 4 days at Trennerys and 4 days at Kob Inn, using those spots as a base for exploration. It was epic.

Noneking said:
sidetrack said:
"Sounds like a KTM trying to start"  >:D :biggrin:

Hy’s oppad in ń krat

Lance has some personal experience in this matter. He has a 2-stroke KTM and it did not like starting during our Wild Coast trip!
 
Zanie, dis goedr om te sien hoe ver jy al gekom het met jou ryery. En dat jy dit geniet. Jy moes net eers die bike vind wat vir jou werk.

Dankie, ek lees lekker.
 
Zanie said:
Day 4 continued

Back on dry land, Lance was certain that we were meant to take a more obscure path. Duncan objected when he saw the reeds. It meant one of two things: boggy conditions or elephants! Oubones and Duncan decided to keep to the ‘main road’.

47980584982_c8d63fcdfe_b.jpg


Pete and I continued to follow Lance, and found neither grey mammals nor green marshes.

47980578878_3bb64e18bd_b.jpg


What we found instead was a last remnant of the old Kunene road!

47980584912_44a20482f9_b.jpg


47980578818_0802b378b2_b.jpg


Lance was bounced off the road to the left here:
47980584822_d9eecd3e6a_b.jpg


A check-in by Lance at a split: “You ok with following this old road?” A unanimous: “Yes!”

47980578713_cfc81733c6_b.jpg


It used to take people one to two days to traverse this road. My parents did it by 4x4 and needed a stiff brandy to calm the nerves.

If you dig on this forum, you will find some RRs featuring the old road. Sadly, hardly any of it is left. The new road mostly follows the old road’s route, obliterating the older track in its wake. This section was a rare gem.

Photos don’t do the gradient justice:
47980578663_e917dba0a5_b.jpg


47980578633_cd81808e20_b.jpg


47980584682_b77be1970f_b.jpg


The Kunene River to the right:
47980631041_e271775bf1_b.jpg


47980584372_5ccb5277f1_b.jpg


47980578363_cdbbbaf37a_b.jpg


47980578293_a34bf8041d_b.jpg


The “wow” response!
47980584132_5219ac7d89_b.jpg


Hardy meant for us to take this route. We were soon joined by Craig, Abel, Hardy, Kobus and the air-con boxes. I assume that most of the rest missed out.

47980578023_6c8ebf6724_b.jpg


Both Lance and Ian went down to the river, but were called back due to the very real threat of crocodiles. These sneaky logs have a deadly burst of speed and have nabbed some people before.

Continuing on the old road:
47980578043_6fff9c7bb2_b.jpg


47980577913_abc24d3d54_b.jpg


We were advised to head to the new road when we could, because today would be a long day. We found the split…

47980583832_e5ec790614_b.jpg


…but decided to stick on the old road as long for as long as we could.

47980583727_9b06a9810b_b.jpg


47980630296_5ef55799dc_b.jpg


47980577663_e75ff70035_b.jpg


It didn’t take long before the old road was swallowed up by the new one.

47980583612_4f3e69099d_b.jpg


But we kept looking for the old road, taking random turn-offs during the search.

Seems legit?
47980583562_55965d8209_b.jpg


Pete was with us and in a similar frame of mind. He and Lance had a short sand excursion.

47980583557_01d763d3c3_b.jpg


And so it went, good / new road, followed by bits of old road…

47980577513_c44e238e5a_b.jpg


…back to the new road, etc.

47980630066_2281dcb90e_b.jpg


My closest call to a fall on this day actually happened on the new road. It still had some unexpected dongas, dips and rocks to throw at you when you least expect it. The road is like a roller-coaster, with very steep hills and dips. The gradient hides the wash-aways until the last moment.

I hit a good-sized rock on a mini-step and was flung forward over the handlebars. Lance said I was on my front wheel for a bit. I don’t know how, but I managed to hang on, with only some sore fingers to show for it (I ride with two fingers on each hand resting on my levers, as a rule).

The new road is obviously a health hazard! Time to find pieces of the old one again.

47980576638_394917654d_b.jpg


47980637111_94b5746da8_b.jpg


Back on the new one. Bugger!

47980629116_c4254a954d_b.jpg


Friendly locals:
47980583352_26f225fc1b_b.jpg


At least the new road still had water crossing obstacles.

47980628966_1cee4974df_b.jpg


47980576203_26508df375_b.jpg


47980576088_2181306793_b.jpg


The bank on the other side was steep and had a donga to the right. Some local kids were gesticulating wildly. We took it as a wave or the usual “make-your-bike-go-vroom!” action, but when considering the footage, it looked more like a “slow down!” wave. Later that day we found out why: a biker had hit earth hard in that donga.

47980575948_cd876f274a_b.jpg


Another piece of old road:
47980576003_ff8b6021f6_b.jpg


47980628536_2b6ec6c4e3_b.jpg


Back on the new one:
47980628326_ecb459b7e0_b.jpg


Still pretty:
47980575548_3fd662e608_b.jpg


We were less than 40 km from our destination of Epupa Falls when we spotted a sign that is surely irresistible to most bikers. It said “cold beer”. Sure enough, we spotted some of our crowd.

Gordon, Brian, Hennie R, Pete and Lance:
47980576793_509ce1e116_b.jpg


Oubones had a prime spot:
47980637306_644d94cb28_b.jpg


We decided to try some cold juice. In Kaokoland, this can cost upwards of R30 for one! This particular spot (owned by someone called Corrie, I think) was more reasonably priced.

Refreshment bliss:
47980575408_a379113342_b.jpg


Don’t turn your back on the water for too long:
47980629366_9947e3df52_h.jpg


There were interesting objects, both of the natural variety (such as this big tree)…
47980581527_e4e2f026bb_b.jpg


…and man-made.
47980575248_c64be9d3fb_b.jpg


It was here that we bumped into the riders of the Triumph and new Africa Twin. The guy on the Triumph was obviously having a bad day. He was the biker who had come short on the donga by the waving kids. The front end of his bike looked a bit sickly.

47980637226_65912fe363_b.jpg


Back on the road again, all refreshed:
47980581317_74f8323d59_b.jpg


47980627791_a3954a3b91_b.jpg


Excuse the lens flare from the GoPro lens protector:
47980574938_da011d9e26_b.jpg


Still hugging the Kunene:
47980627521_ba258b89e2_z.jpg


Beautiful scenery:
47980627496_d1f4405197_b.jpg


With a beautiful baobab:
47980574598_502f050042_b.jpg


47980580642_1d75749787_b.jpg


And then we arrived!

47980580602_fde106e990_b.jpg


Epupa Falls Lodge and Campsite:
47980627081_980f515b25_b.jpg


Pool and beer available at the end of the magical stairs:
47980574228_e2d45439a1_b.jpg


The Epupa Falls are visible from the deck of the camp restaurant / bar.

47980574153_c2c5bd7a42_b.jpg


But the best view is out the main gate…
47980580162_b83ddba3cd_b.jpg


…and around the back.
47980580112_57a5bf5c20_b.jpg


47980626721_ddc64eed85_b.jpg


47980579917_528a6c3198_b.jpg


47980579762_170d39d420_b.jpg


47980626431_10b0efc80b_z.jpg


47980579462_c5820f9d45_b.jpg


47980573373_8bce69714e_b.jpg


47980579562_e4c954eb27_b.jpg


Given the good facilities at the campsite, it was time for some bike TLC. I was worried about my air filter, given the state of the air filters I’ve seen from Duncan, Oubones and Kobus’s bikes. I needn’t have worried. Mine was still good to go.

47980579327_ed92a1e39f_b.jpg


Next was an oil change. I like doing my own, because that means that no washers go missing (looking at you, Lance!) and all bolts / nuts are tightened to Zanie-strength, i.e. I can loosen them again without stripping a bolt or my moer.

47980626096_e681a5c0e8_b.jpg


Lance got called in to be the official oil-container-holder (pic by Kobus):

47980572793_e0c7f9bc2a_b.jpg


The humidity was high next to the river, which meant uncomfortable heat. I did not touch the hot water tap of the shower.

Supper was a carboload smorgasbord: pasta bolognaise, served with bread. We were being prepped for survival. Tomorrow is our first shorter-distance day. Remember what I said about short-distance days?

The high humidity and heat also meant mozzies! Craig’s tent set-up seemed like a plan. For some reason he brought his own tent (Mr. Camel Man?).

47980579087_4896d51ba0_b.jpg


We used one of the Specialised Adventures tents, minus fly-sheet, for maximum possible air-condition.

Fantastic photos Zanie and Lance. Makes me tired once again just looking them.  Can't we repeat the trip?
 
I'd love to go on a trip like this again. If you got tired from day 4's photos, wait until day 5. That's when the fun started! And when you started your collection of bruises.  :eek:
 
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