Well we are not done yet..... :ricky:
The evening was spent in a recommended restaurant, which was excellent and we had Portuguese flat chicken, wine for swambo and a beer for myself, as I still had to ride back to the hotel, they had a restaurant but it would not open before 8 and as usual, we were rather hungry and decided to go downtown. It was a good choice. Some light drizzle woke us up the next morning but stopped just before we started riding towards Porto. It rained on and off and the temperature had dropped considerately, so we decided to skip camping and booked a room in the Ibis Hotel, not expensive and pretty central so we could walk to the old town of Porto and stroll around the many very old buildings and the river front, where all the action is. In one of the side streets we found a local restaurant, that really looked good but they specialized on prawns and octopus meals, which swambo does not eat. She said we should stay and she will have something later but that was not ok with me, so we carried on and found a place which made lekker prego rolls and we tasted various Port wines from the region, which went down well. There were many people around and lots of live entertainment, altogether a round evening and we enjoyed walking quite a bit for a change. The bike was safe in the underground parking and the hotel staff very friendly.
A tram, which we haven't seen for quite a while:
Some of the port we had to taste
Interesting road signs!
Everything is pretty run down in Portugal. Either they do not have the funds for maintenance or they do not spend the money for it, which is a pity. We had done enough coastal stretches and decided to cut inland towards the mountainous area. What a good call. En route we still found another Garmin shop, but once again no battery in stock and a three day waiting period, which we thankfully skipped. So we continued without GPS and followed the map, which was rather large. Often we circled a round about a couple of times, before somehow deciding which exit to follow, as neither was the road named nor the next city we wanted to go to. Eventually you follow the general direction and get to where you want to be. The road led us via Braga through the mountains to Chaves and further to Braganca, a beautiful stretch to ride and very little traffic. Not far from the old city centre we found the Tulip Hotel, a three star establishment with a Pizzeria restaurant attached. Two beautiful old beemers with Swiss plates were parked in front.
The restaurant proved to be a pearl of note. So far the only good pizza you can get in Italy, in other European countries it is called pizza, but it is just not the same. The owner had his training in Italy and cooked up a storm. The waitress was a gem, extremely helpful, not overbearing and made some really good suggestions regarding the food and which wine would be best to round the meal up. Eventually she told us that she was the owner's daughter. After dinner we joined the Swiss couple and had a great evening. We exchanged details and hope, they will come and visit us in SA. They were quite keen. Some Spanish chaps we met told us about the beauty of Galizia, but eventually we decided to carry on to Picos de Europa instead. Towards the Spanish coast, we reached Leon, where we found a BMW dealer. I quickly went in and asked them to check the GPS, one of the wires had come lose but we still had the issue with the dead battery. They had a BMW GPS unit, which is identical to the Garmin and has the same battery. Once swapped, the GPS worked like a charm. But they did not have a battery in stock, it would take three days to order. I don't know if I mentioned this, but we heard that story rather often. So I said to the guys, order one, but give me the BMW GPS battery. That seemed to be a strange concept but after a while they agreed. Yay, our GPS was fully functional again. We found a little tapas bar/restaurant and decided for dinner to buy some lomo ham, cheese, bread and red wine, for the pricely sum of EUR 14 which proved to be a rather good dinner which was consumed in the hotel room while watching the demolition game between Germany and Brazil. We could hardly believe what we saw......
En route to Leon
The Bazilian demolition
We focused on Picos de Europa, what a stunning area, a must for anybody in the area. We found a bed and breakfast for hikers in the little dorpie of Sta. Marina de Valdeon. Bunk beds (too short for myself), in a loft room, toilets and showers two stairs down, pub/restaurant in the middle. But the owner, a young couple, were fantastic and did everything themselves. A couple of dishes were offered in the evening and it was really nice, homemade food and as usual some local red wine. The owners father also stayed for a couple of days and really enjoyed talking to us in German nogal, he used to work for Siemens. The total population of Sta. Marina de Valdeon is 13, During summer a few more, so the one night we met with 75% of the local population in the pub. We stayed two nights and toured the area, nature at it's best, Mountains, valleys, gorges and all, very good roads, little traffic, all in all a little paradise.
See for yourself
Sta. Marina de Valdeon
Handmade weather forecast
We hiked a bit
Our B&B, very cosy
Riding all days was fun...
Picos de Europa
Our very nice hosts
Our next station working along the coast was Laredo. The original plan was to go to Biarritz and up north along the French coast, but the weather forecast got continuously worse so we changed our minds and went east to Pamplona and do the Pyrenees instead, which was a good call. Once again we were caught by rain in Pamplona (the bull run was over already....) and one car was just so slow I had to overtake. Just as I accelerated, the rear wheel started spinning and the battle ship made a funny side move. The traction control kicked in and steadied the bike instantly. I am quite happy about such technology and can't say, if I would have saved it on my own, but fully loaded two up it is a handful to control.
The weather got worse, the rain more and fog was added to the mixture that you could hardly see anything right in front of the bike. Eventually we called it a day in a small hotel on the French side, very neat and very expensive.
Dinner, various courses, the menu looked very promising and it tasted great. Just too little and after all courses I started getting hungry. The French....
I had enough of the rain and ordered sunshine for the next day. It worked! :biggrin:
The further we went, the more beautiful it got. Up and down, serpentines, switchbacks, stunning views, mountains and valleys you can cruise through all day long and it does not get boring.
Some of the roads through the Pyrenees are actually part of the Tour de France and plenty of signage tells you when it will be closed for public traffic. There were plenty of cyclists on the road, I still rather use the throttle to get up the mountains.....
ot: :ricky:
We zig zagged through the Pyrenees, followed the scenic routes as per map and worked our way north. From the German forum we picked up that the bridge of Millau is something to see so we took the general direction towards Millau. We stopped over in a small coffee shop. They do not serve breakfast?! But the owner managed to get us some toast and jam, plus two coffees. All for just under R 200..... At the coffee shop we met two Swedes, father and son team on their enduro bikes. We had a quick chat and they admitted, they would love to have a full German breakfast again. Once again as we were about to carry on, it started raining heavily. We had taken out the map to check the route and I quickly shoved it into the compartment of the tankbag. As the bike was standing in full sun, they plastic was very soft and in my haste I ripped the top corner open with the map. Nothing that can't be fixed with duct tape, though.
We found a very neat camp site in Lacaune. Once again joint bathrooms for men and women. Our cooker's fuel line became porous and all I managed was a big fireball, again and again, burning some grass, but not heating the water for our spaghettis. Eventually I gave up and we walked into town, about half an hour from the campsite. With our usual luck, it was a public holiday in France, which we just did not know about. After a while, we found the one and only open pub in town and had dinner.
Well dined and wined we made our way back to our tent, to fall into some well deserved sleep. Not so! about 50m away was a small hall and it was the local bingo night, with entertainer, loudspeaker at full blast so did not miss anything at all. Swambo mentioned, it will only be until 10 and then it should be over. Well ok then. Not so! First of all it carried on up to 10:30, after which the disco started. I could have killed someone and was about to take my leatherman and cut the main power line to the campsite....but eventually I fell asleep. Camping is great!
The following day led us through beautiful areas as we were approaching Millau, to view the "Le Viaduc de Millau". I had not seen any pictures yet and for what it's worth somehow I expected a gazillion year old stone bridge. Were we in for a surprise. check these pictures of this masterpiece!
A BMW advert worth picture: Freude am Fahren
Once again, despite GPS, I got lost and we did the bridge twice. We cruised through the Cevennes, a stunning area. Whilst doing so, I saw a sign diverting from our route and named Gorge du Tarne and after a quick consultation with my cruise control, we agreed to give it a try. It was a good decision.
Camping along the river Tarn
Definitely an area for another visit...