Right, topped up the coffee and sugar supplies in Swak, now heading north. Or at least we would be IF I'D REMEMBERED TO CHECK THE BLOODY ROOM SAFE
Yep, 50km up the coast I patted where my money belt should have been and AAAARGH! And it was freezing, and it was a long way to our overnight in Kalmanjab. What a berk...
Anyway, we passed by the ship and shortly afterwards turned inland, the temperature rising with every kilometer we moved away from the coast.
The ride was pretty straightforward through a landscape that looked about as hostile to humans as it's possible to get, people survive but it looked a bit desperate.
If you're up that way, Alpec Bush Camp just outside Kalmanjab is a pretty decent place to stay. There is a warning on the gate about not taking any responsibility for, well, anything. So when I fell off at the camp entrance in a sand hole trapping my ankle under the bike at the end of a pretty shitty 2km track I couldn't complain, could I? :
Anyway, some brawny lads appeared and lifted the bike up while I tried to regain my composure. Gotta love Sidi Adventures, reckon they did their job well. My foot was sore, but nothing broken.
They've gone through some Jaegermeister over the last wee while...
Mrs 3D couldn't wait for the barman, so helped herself. Typical.
The following day my foot had swelled up nicely, so I had to adjust the straps on my boot, but once done up felt OK. Heading north through Kaokoland towards the Kunene river it felt as though we were starting to get remote, even by Namibian standards.
However, the road was pretty good, even if north of the bustling town of Opuwo we saw virtually no traffic. Gassing up in Opuwo, we were immediately surrounded by Himba and Herero people trying to sell us stuff, and it was clear that any attempt at un paid for photography was a no-no, so Mrs 3D was reduced to trying to snap pics on the way out of town.
I used my Desert Fox fuel bladder for the first time on this road. Great piece of kit, carried four or five litres, which with the 350km you can go on a tank gives a range that is good enough for most situations. When I wasn't using it I folded it up and stuck it in the pannier 'beavertail'
Anyway, it was all going along fine, until we reached this:
OK, no bridge, tons of sand on the other side and it's stinking hot. What to do? I had visions of completely unloading the bike and walking it through, but while we were scouting up and down for a better place to ford the river, some youngsters appeared and told me I could cross about 500m upstream- there were tracks everywhere, so this wasn't obvious. Anyway, they led us to a spot where we could cross- loads of deep sand but against all the odds I managed to ride it, with a bit of help in the form of some pushing from the larger lads. They then showed us the way back to the road. Damn though, it was hot.
Our rescuers/guides
I fished around in my pocket and found about eight dollars and pressed it into the hand of the lad lad who had been doing the talking. He looked at it and mumbled something about twenty being better. Cheeky little bugger, but I found some more and told hime to share it with the others. He'll go far, that one. :biggrin:
Once we reached the turnoff to Kunene River Lodge we had to start working hard again- some very steep rocky sections there- or so it seemed on the GS- but I just stayed off the clutch and drove her up and it felt good. I may be learning how to handle the bike on tough sections!. When we got to the lodge I had one of the most enjoyable beers in my life.
Our pitch, right on the river with Angola on the other side. Angola!