Our non-adventure Lesotho adventure (RR completed)

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m0lt3n

Grey Hound
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Location
Kathu (NC)
Bike
KTM 1290 Adventure R
Yap, as seen in the heading, we had a fake adventure, we had a support bakkie joining us. But to make it worse, I even trailered my bike to Bethlehem! I hope it can be forgiven...

In on this trip was myself from Kathu on an 1190, Tinus from Sodom & Gomorra on an 1190, Henk and Johann both from Bethlehem and both on 990 R's.. In the old Hilux was my brother and Stean from Durban and Jan from Bethlehem.

The plan was to ride from Saturday to Saturday, 8 complete days of fun fun fun, but as always are plans and reality not always aligned, more on that soon. Here is some taster pictures before I start my ramblings on our Losper sourced route. I will try to not share to much of my random opinions and thoughts
 

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PHILIPKUHN said:
Net 2 fotos? :confused2: :confused2: :confused2:

Dink dis daar wat die kak begin het en die kamera weggeraak het  :peepwall:
 
Gooi daai ride-report, ons wag vir hom :biggrin:
 
Heimer said:
PHILIPKUHN said:
Net 2 fotos? :confused2: :confused2: :confused2:

Dink dis daar wat die kak begin het en die kamera weggeraak het  :peepwall:

So iets Heimer....meer in lyn van dinge het begin erg woes raak

Martin ek is seker daar sal ingechip word soos jy aangaan.
 
Before  just start with the trip I thought the whole prep process really should get a mention. There is so much that goes on before a trip start that its often overlooked.

The planning for this basically started in April. First I had to see what can work for me. I have a 1 and a 2 year old and I cant just hop on the bike and let my wife look after them. So first I had to see how she can be accomodated. That sorted then starts the process of seeing how many friends can join. The whole process of inviting 30, get 10 eager ones which quickly drop to 6 while 4 pitches in the end. Henk was keen, we try to do something similar yearly, and Johann which has joined us previously also falls in. I invite Tinus not knowing him at all and what a great choice. While I am more of an instigator Tinus is the guy that follows through. My brother, Jean, does not want to miss out and insists on joining with his bakkie, with his heavy in tow. Jan is Henk's neighbour, wants to join and is now another new friend!

So we have an idea that we want to do Lesotho or at least Old Mill Drift and then maybe a bit of Swaziland, I snoop around a little on the forum for a route and it wasnt long till I get hold of the legend called Losper! He is very keen and helpful with a route, really putting effort into it after we explained our needs and we get the tracks a few days later. We leave it at that, but as one after the other of the group looks at the route with the intent to edit cut or change, we realize this is really going to be awesome, there is a lot of weird deviations that speaks of Lesotho experience way above our own. He really should ask a fee!

A friend of Tinus made the nice graphics of our intentions, a nice summary of the planned route
 

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SUBSCRIBE ...I must get back to Lesotho on a bike again
 
The Friday all sounded calm with everyone's final preparations while I was fuming. My trip was not off to a great start. i wanted to leave work before 12o'clock but only managed to get away at 14:30. I then first had to do someone a quick favor I could not get out of and on my way I got lost, losing another hour. We packed in a rush only to find my car battery was flat (I dont drive it much). First I try to charge it for half an hour, no luck, take out my bakkie's battery and jump it...no luck, so then started a whole bundu bash mission to get the bakkie behind the house next to the garage/car to jump start. success. We finally leave only to realize 40km on I forgot my passport at home, turn around to fetch it only to realize at home that it has been in my wife's bag in the car the whole time. Thinking about it I must really have been super amped for this trip, normally I would not have stayed as calm as I did. I think we got in Roodepoort where my wife would stay the week with her sister after 12 o'clock at night and I set off again at half past 4am to be in Bethlehem at half past 7.

Some pictures of the prep:
I made snack packets per day. I don't think everyone did but I do think everyone will next time. Lesotho is not the best of places to grab a quick lunch snack when getting fuel. My brother fitted a nice canopy thing for touring which also had a roof rack, I can really understand now why all the touring 4x4s have these contraptions, it really helps a lot to order everything. (he fitted the camo wrap after pic)
Tinus was on his way with his huge bag on the back, good thing it went into the support.
I never got around to filling the bike up so did it on the back of the trailer, it was already a late night, an extra minute now wont change much.
There is always final minute drama before a trip it seems, picture shows the Hilux leaking brake fluid, or flooding it or whatever, it seemed serious so Henk got him a lot extra.
Last picture is taken at Johann's home and my bike is not in it...why...because it was just out of the frame at his workshop, my unhealthy unrelenting unnatural unwanted relationship with loose stearing neck bearings had started. I basically had to tighten them almost every night.
 

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Day 1 started with me immediately being speeched how we can not start off with Old Mill Drift route and that we should do it at the end. I really thought that that is not going to happen but did not push the matter, I saw Tinus did not have pannier racks on his bike. He was the most inexperienced of our lot but even if that was not the case, it would not be a good idea. In the end I do believe we did tougher routes though, so much for that.

We set off and I was not in the zone. Not at all. I struggled to keep up with the lot. I have not been spending a lot of time on the bike lately and it was telling. We took some backroutes around golden gate though which was a nice warm up session and by the end of it I was feeling better, more focussed. I think the same was also the case for Tinus who over ran corners, twice (pic 1). Super dangerous, I think it was a case of target fixation, not looking through the corner but at the corner. I must add that somehow Tinus adapted incredibly fast and it never happened again, even when we were really gunning it.

We entered Lesotho through Monantsa pass, it was fun and scenic, but one of those bike breaker routes. Johann, who has done it before, reckons the road is in the worst shape it has ever been. Loads of washed out pieces, corrugation, generally just a very harsh road.

At the border post (pic 2) I was in for a surprise, I saw the value of someone knowing the local language. Johann was near-to fluent in Sotho and it was a huge help everywhere throughout the trip. People were instantly friendly and helpful everywhere. The border crossing was quick and easy on SA side, Lesotho side also although we almost thought there was no one there for a moment. Just when we wanted to ride off again we found Henk had a flat rear tyre. It took almost an hour and a half to fix and we just could not get it to bead. Even Henk bouncing it at near to 3.5 bar made no difference and eventually we just set off with it as is. Pic 3 of Henk doing kettlebells with the rear, bouncing to help with beading and pic 4 also of hlHenk fixing the tyre. Deep peace ande happiness for this man when working with tyres...

I stopped for a pic of my bike as well as Johann's bike when I had my first moment. After taking pictures of everyone passing as well I got on my bike from the wrong side, felt it slip from sidestamd, yrabbed it and the handguard snapped in my hand as the bike fell. It lay very uncomfortably halfway in the bushes and was a mission to get up, no pictures. I think this was also when I scratched my fairing around the tank. Very frustrating the hear the little ones laugh at ke when they were just seconds before begging for sweets.
 

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You know I am always stunned about guys taking bug dualies on technical sections & trips like these - but please not at all should you read a negative tone! In fact; I am sort of admiring you guys guts and endurance to do something like this on these big beasts! One thing I do know; it comes at a price because these machines do hurt and the maintenance afterwards can be costly but if you can afford it why not?

Please keep the pictures coming!!  :thumleft: :laughing4:
 
Tom van Brits said:
You know I am always stunned about guys taking bug dualies on technical sections & trips like these - but please not at all should you read a negative tone! In fact; I am sort of admiring you guys guts and endurance to do something like this on these big beasts! One thing I do know; it comes at a price because these machines do hurt and the maintenance afterwards can be costly but if you can afford it why not?

Please keep the pictures coming!!  :thumleft: :laughing4:
Nothing negative taken. I can say that once the items are upgraded, like rims and handguards there really isnt much that needs to be repaired after the trip. The 990s on this trip had no repairs required as everything that should be was already upgraded. Even on my bike its not to bad, basically handguards and mirrors. I sheared a bolt of on the bashplate as well but spoke to KTM yesgerday and the guy wasnt surprised, talks about a bolt upgrade kit they have as the bolts rust and break from vibration only. Mine had a bit more persuasion than just vibration but all in all its not to bad...if you can live with scratches on your crashbars.
 
Another disclosure wrt our non-adventure adventure....Lesotho has good cell phone reception! This really felt like cheating, it was even better than the reception I normally had when doing my iron butt rides in South Africa! I could run our tracking app and it updated regularly. Please look at the link to see the route we did take in the end. Note also that there is pictures at some spots where I got a gap to take them on the app itself, it gives a nice indication of what was happening or what was the scenery or situation at selected spots on the map.

link:
https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php?id=15b675985596aa09ff&hoursPast=0&showAll=yes


You simply buy a sim for R5 at almost any shop, (I was ripped off, some members paid R2.50!) load airtime and convert to data. IIRC data was R45 for 900mb for 7 days. A bargain!

Back to finishing day 1...
The Tyre patch took some time and I was not used to having a bladder on the back with water all the time, so soon I ran out and did the last bit with no water. Actually quite a few hours and it was really getting to me. I was starting to get headaches and having to concentrate on whether I have to press up or press down on the gearlever for the next gear, when we finally got to tar near Kala. I was surprised how quick and profound is recovery with just one sip of water. I bought the aforementioned sim card also here and we waited for support which took the same route as us and got a little lost.

After some driving around looking for our planned accommodation for the night, Liphofung caves, we finally got there well past sunset. And like I said, cheating, dropping pins for the location on a working whatsapp group helped a lot. Pretty beat up after all the riding it was awesome to have support guys to braai and dish out some Amarula for the night.

Pic of braai at night and rusks for breakfast before tackling the next great day.
 

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Adding to day 1 and the trip to Liphofung caves on Jan's recommendation. Johann and Henk went looking for the bakkie whilst Martin and I went looking for accommodation. Liphofung is en route to Moteng pass on a fresh piece of twisty tar (unlike the road displayed on Google maps). Here, already dark, and with a helmet visor full of dust, we set off when I got a massive skrik. Local driver in a small car on our side of the road making use of the entire road. Impressed with the ABS on the 1190 we live to continue the trip. That night I dreamt of lifting the front and bunny hop over the car.

I took up the responsibility of organising accommodation. Lesotho accommodation isn't well found on the tourist map with contact details being few and websites even scarcer. Liphofung was a nice place for the money (R250 for the bungalow of 4 fixed beds) and the bucket toilet/shower system made for interesting shower and toilet use. Jan had been in the big house but said it wasn't furnished. When I looked it appears they've since semi-furnished it and comes in at R 600 for 8, not bad at all.

Not sure if Martin will go into the long wait for the key but it felt like hours.

The symphony of snores, cringing and farts got everybody into a peaceful sleep.
 
^^^ flippet I am still not sure if Stean was being murdered or enjoyed being murdered or murdering someone or whatever in his sleep, but I was genuinely concerned if he will make the night!
 
:laughing4:

It sounded like he was recovering from a heavy car crash or something. Cringing, stop breathing, and in true pain. He knew nothing of course the following day.
 
Day 2 was to be the first full day of following the route as set out by Losper, and it definitely did not disappoint. We were to ride from Liphofung caves to our fanciest accommodation of the trip at Motloang. Washing up in cold water in Lesotho in winter does not rate as a fond experience, so we had high hopes. First though we had to get petrol and water. For me further on in Lesotho my focus or worry moved not from always having petrol, but rather always buying water. See pic of Tinus shopping, with a leaking bladder and impressed girl!

The route was very random, but awesome, we would be riding on tar or decent gravel and then just suddenly have to turn off onto some single track. At first we would wonder if it is a mistake but after repeated rewards soon loved these turn offs.First up, as was the case for most days,  was some nice-ish gravel, roads where you would see the occasional car but not really like to take your bakkie there. Most of the time we would be able to do about 50kmph on these routes, easy progress but not easy enough to relax on. The single track on the other hand would never see 3rd gear. Oh, btw, I went two teeth up on my rear sprocket, a move I was very happy to have made. The low down power was amazing and I was also able to do a lot of these slow single track in 2nd gear which was not as 'catchy' as first.

I think the pics will tell the story, nice varied terrain we rode.

The last pic with the spotlight shining up (and mudguard broke)... I hit a sheep. In general I don't really focus much on animals, dogs will bark but never really get close enough, cows will ignore or move away, goats will ignore you as will donkeys. But sheep is a different level of stupid. They would dart over the road in front of you for no reason. Or other sheep will, I am sure this one got some sense knocked into it. I hit it on the head while I was probably doing about 50ish. It was lights out for a few seconds before trying to get up, I think it fell down for probably 6 times before going off the road. After hitting it I pulled over to see if it was okay, I was very worried as killing a sheep in the middle of Lesotho I can only imagine being loads of drama, and riding on ignoring a dead sheep would mean loads of drama for the next bike rider. But fortunately it survived, kind off, and we rode on again.
 

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Next up I am going to try uploading or embedding some youtube clips of some of the more technical pieces we did. Pics don't do it justice, but neither does the clips. Its like a gradient is loss on a video clip, you will see a bike struggle to get traction, but it seems to be doing downhill!

Anyhow. First up is Tinus doing a little uphill. We did eventually succeed in getting him to stand up more when riding got more technical!
Its also funny how we would stop and take vids of stuff in the beginning of the trip, thinking that's awesome, but later do stuff twice as difficult or intense, stop, think how awesome that was, and then aim for the next heap of rocks.
[youtube]https://youtu.be/kl2y5YObOxw[/youtube]

At another spot we had to do a very tough downhill. Again of our own making as we missed the track somehow and saw it again in the distance and went for it as the crow flies (Is there another way!?). This time it is Johann riding. Watching the video afterwards Johann was not very happy with Henk for not putting his back into that lift, leaving Johann to do all the heavy lifting with his one leg that was touching... :patch:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/8uoiTduNB1U[/youtube]


[youtube]https://youtu.be/cVz4puR-ovA[/youtube]
 
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