Our non-adventure Lesotho adventure (RR completed)

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Before I continue with the story see this pic of the support bakkie. Looks nice. They also had fun today!
 

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Next up was Lundeans Neck, which was not much fun at first. The road was also in a bad condition like Monantsa pass on the first day, but eventually it got better and we could actually enjoy it. I enjoy a super bad road which is technical riding, and then I enjoy a good gravel road, I don’t enjoy the stuff in-between, the bike abusers. Next up was Bidstone which I have not done before and was surprised to see it was actually a little technical. I previously almost did it with my wife on the rear. Previously with a heavily loaded bike and only 1 years riding experience, it would not have ended well….

At Tiffindell I was super disappointed! Not because Henk preferred beer over a good coffee but because the flippen ski slope was build/thrown/made over the road to Ben Macdhui pass! This was a bucket list pass for me to do and a big reason why we were even in the area! We could have stayed in Lesotho. Anyhow, we did some refreshing at the bar and chatted to a girl who told us a GS is the best. We defended our bikes’ honor and the discussion was concluded as a manner of saying goodbye that at least we are not Harley riders, well….that was a bit harder to defend so we set off again!

This day really started to get to me, my feet were shot. The boots I wore did not have the shank in the sole to support one while standing. I was sitting as much as possible to save my feet and when sitting I struggled to keep up with Henk. Lagging behind was frustrating and did not help my confidence, and all of this was not helped with the neck bearing being lose again. Riding a bike is all about confidence in myself and the bike, and it wasn’t going very well. I still enjoyed it though, but was starting to long for some smooth gravel roads which there fortunately was at that time.

At Rhodes we had a good, if expensive, burger before unpacking. The initial plan was to camp but there was no need for such drastic measures with the rooms looking at us, calling us. After relaxing a bit, combined with the ritual of tightening neck bearings, the night was ended off with a build-it-yourself pizza at some local place with a nice kuier on the side. It was a good day again.



Memorable moment for the night: “Almost like my R1, just with less power!”  Hahahahaah

 

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Martin if you don't mind I'll chip in a bit here.

Being the "rest day" for me I went with Johann to Telle Bridge where we would bid our farewells. The road from Malealea was gravel for the most part descending into the valley for quite a few km's before hitting the A2 and impeccable tarmac.

This was quite a surprise because I thought the GPS will take us back to the tar road I came in where I threw in the towel and left for Malealea, it didn't and the gravel was great. Not as technical as day 3 but on occasion had to be wary. Some of the sections running alongside cliffs had massive boulders (rockfall) in the road and the thought of one of those brittle looking pieces coming loose crossed my mind but equally lost interest in it very quickly.

At Telle I thanked Johann where he returned to Bethlehem approximately 2.5 hour ride away.

This is where I said I'll wait for Martin and Henk however, convinced they could not be far behind I pressed on slowly first speaking to my wife on the helmet comm en route to Lundean's nek. The phone cut out, stopped, no signal. checked the last message, Martin and Henk at Telle (no more than 15 minutes behind). Press on taking it easy and enjoying the scenery.

At some point the road split with Lundean's nek towards the left and I can't remember which one went right. I picked up the pace a little knowing I'll meet Martin and Henk at Tiff where we agreed. If I get stuck, they won't be far behind me.

I took the wrong turn and only realised it about 5km into it. No problem just turn around and correct. Massive flock of sheep in the road, must have lost about 15 minutes waiting for them to clear. Henk later said just go through them, they'll move.

Now I'm convinced they're ahead of me and I'm pushing hard now on some good gravel. Get to another fork and get some locals together asking "have you seen bike like this, x2, which way?" I get the go left signal. My Sotho is nowhere near that of Johann or Henk which has been a great help thus far on the trip. 

I'm pushing really hard now trying to catch them. Quick check of the phone, no signal. No time to waste press on.

Like Martin said, some good some bad sections Lundeans. Didn't stop for photo's just went for it. Somewhere after Lundean's the gravel is smooth and slippery as snot, and I quickly learn to go slow in the corners still convinced they're ahead of me. I don't see bike spoor but sometimes I do catch bike spoor and it is all becoming a bit confusing.

Bidstone cottages are ahead marking the start of a 15km trip to Tiff, ok, no problem.

It is important to note that save for the stop and bidding farewell to Johann, I had not stopped to rest the entire day.
For those who know what Bidstone is like, concentration is important.
Had it not been for the riding of day 3, I would have had an off on this road. How a 4 wheel vehicle gets up there I don't know, it must take hours on a car.

I was not mentally prepared for this but quickly got in the zone and pressed on. It was hard on the arms. Standing on an 1190 using that power (Offroad mode) takes its toll. 15km becomes 10km, 5km and eventually some flat sections. I can see Tiff and Ben MacDhui. Ben Macdhui does not nearly look as intimidating as I had thought having watched Trygve's videos on Mountain passes. Get to Tiff, ask around for some bikers, none. Ok, maybe something happened to Martin or Henk but least they had each other to help.

Hung around for a while and decided to make a line for Rhodes, I'm buggered.

Carlileshoekspruit pass was like the N1 compared to Bidstone. Smooth, loose like snot gravel but good.

Get to Rhodes, a one horse town and the horse died a long time ago. Beautiful place don't get me wrong. See a sign that reads Bar and decide to stop thinking I'll have a cold one or two before looking for the place we had booked. Closed and no car, or horse in sight. Opposite the "Bar" which I learned from the young Cape Town guy "running" (if you can call it that, I'd rather say waiter) that the Bar was for sale. Opposite the bar at the information center where a friendly elderly lady advised me I'm looking for Rubicon guest house. She also says I can have something there to eat and drike as well as Walkerbouts and their pizza. Rubicon rings a name and head there 4 or so blocks away.

Not a bike or backup bakkie in sight. The bar is open, I'm hungry and thirsty and make quick work of 2 beers and burger. We were supposed to camp here on the lawn next to the old school when I asked to open the room as we had agreed the bathroom will be open for use. Once inside I notice a fireplace, high ceilings, very comfortable beds and immediately go back, take my stuff off the bike and pick my bed. "How much extra", the young Capetonian mumbles R 105 extra i.e. R 200 per night. I give him the cash and make some small talk with an elderly man that rocked up on a 300 KTM with a rear sprocket that looked like toothpicks. Martin and Henk arrive and discuss the events of the day. Henk had a flat.

Not long thereafter Jean, Jan and Stean (backup) join and everybody decided to trade the comfort of a tent for a mattress and warm fireplace.

Reluctantly I did not take many photos. Here is one near the top of Bidstone

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The scenery here is truly amazing and one can notably feel the difference in temperature as altitude increases. Think the highest I saw for the day was around 2800m, circa 200 short of Ben Mac.
 
Furthermore, since I lost signal towards Lundean's I only got it back near Tiff where I lost it again only to come back close to Rhodes.

I did have to restart my phone and don't know how much of it was because of something that went crazy on the phone or truly a network issue. After the restart messages didn't immediately stream.
 
Thanks Tinus!

I have been slow in updating, most of the best bits was done plus work has been getting busy, or the lazyness took over, I dont know which is to blame but here goes day 5!

Morning broke and we were all fired up to start the day a bit earlier than the previous day. The earlier we are done the earlier we can braai!
We greeted Henk, being your own boss meant no more frolicking about and he set off. We kitted up, got on the bikes aaaaaand found Tinus had a flat rear. So off came all the kit again and we set about fixing it. Fortunately the bead on that Shinko broke a lot easier than the E10 on Henk's 990 so after little persuasion from the side stand on my bike that bit was done, tube replaced and we were off again, after another coffee from our wonderful support! As we were a bit tired and lost some time we had a long discussion on what we can skip for the day, so ended up only doing Bastervoetpad pass, a pass neither of us have done yet.

We chose the route that looked the easiest, or the only route I cant remember and were off but soon found the gravel was remarkably slippery. There was very little traction, nice for doing some slides but I was to lazy to do any fancy riding anymore. We made decent time and soon saw the sign for Bastervoetpad pass. I like these old rustic signs.

I dont know what I was expecting but it was different. Route itself was easy but tiring. Very rocky and steep, oh, and long. What did surprise me was the scenery! Some of the best we had had all trip. I dont know if I just appreciated it more because it was hard work to get there, but let the pictures speek for themselves.

Pic 1 was us getting calmly ready for the day, we had started early enough so no pressure.
Then the tyre repair, some pics en route and finally bastervoetpad pass. The pics dont do it justice, but everyone always says so!
 

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So i cant say I was enjoying my day to much, it wasnt long till my neck bearings loosened again and I was feeling the constant knocking in the handlebars, normally this will rob a lot of my confidence in the bike but this time it was worse. I could also see way to much movement in my headunit.

Now let me explain, I judge my own stuff harshly, my bike has not been without a few issues (but a lot was of my own doing), so coupled with this I research a lot. So I am aware of a lot of possible issues that could pop up. So in this case I immediately though the looseness of the headunit had something to do with having read that the whole head assembly is mounted on plastic brackets prone to wearing out. So I was worried. Unnecessary as I have since found its my fairings that was loose, probably a lost bolt.

So I wasnt enjoying myself as much as I should have when I heard another rattle from beneath the bike.
Jap, another issue. I stopped and found one of the bolts on a bracket of my bash plate was missing. Very frustrating. I checked but saw that there was no immediate danger or solution so we pressed on. My confidence now down to zero.

We got to gravel again and decided Elliot should be bigger than Ugie, bigger chances of finding loctite there so we went to Ugie for fuel and loctite. We got fuel but Shoprite could not help with loctite, and it being a holiday today no other shops was open, so we set off to Rhodes again. The tar outside Elliot was rather nice then, having grip and doing proper speeds was refreshing.

On the gravel we pushed and I was just starting to have fun again when I felt that my bike was suddenly very tough to steer. Sure enough, I had a flat on the front wheel. So guess what, as I had a rather big smiley on the crappy rims I had a tube in, tubeless on the rear but this flat had to be on the front.

And if you cant understand why my bike is on its side on the ground...call it a perk of having a non OEM twin exhaust.
Worth it.
We set about changing the wheel, but I was having a very hard time with bolts that was over tightened and soon stripped one. We struggled for probably 10 more minutes before we asked the support team to join us. See pic of two very relaxed beer drinkers rudely interrupted.
They arrived and after being humiliated on the dual purpose nature of my bolts, which could be loosened by sockets as well. The tyre was soon off, repaired and fitted again. Jean was raring to go for a spin so he drove the last 15km to Rhodes.

Back at our lodgings we found that the bash plate bolt had not lost but was sheared of in the engine casing. Frustrating and not good for my trust issues. Anyhow, Jean took Jan for a spin afterwards and both returned with a big smile, for the first time ever Jan understood why people would ride bikes, he had a very big smile!

And then we could braai.

I have since learned that these bolts tend to rust and break a lot, but at the time I just could not figure out how I broke it, I never hit the bashplate very hard.
 

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Support guys send us this pic of the sheep they also got stuck in. Probably the same flock Tinus met. They drove with the bakkie to Tiffendel today, had a beer and joined a random tour. Guess I can someday bring my family here and have them stay at Tiffendel while I explore more of Lesotho on a bike.

We deeviated from Losperz route further on, or rather we quit aqfter this day, aq pity in hindsight but thats how things go. I did not want to do much more gravel with my bike as I was gritting on my teeth all the time, expecting the bashplate to come loose filurther or such issue.

Last poc is of the lonely 2 1190's left over.
 

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Day 6 and we were going home! Sort off, it was pretty far.

So we would still ride together the first bit of the route, Naudes nek, and then split IIRC at Mt Fletcher. We set off on time and had a decent day. The bakkie kept up nicely but I dont think thats normal. That poor Hilux is dog slow but wasnt today! It is a very funny sight to see this old loaded camo bakkie come charging on the turns and all these leisure 4x4 stuff like Pajeros and Prados getting out of the way. Very entertaining, but I dont know how the support guys inside that bakkie's backs felt, or if they had teeth fillings left.

We had a good time except for a crazy wind. Normally I dont mind riding in the outside spoor on these high passes but not today. Today I opted for the safer inside track, even if it was in worse shape.The wind reallly was rough, capable of blowing a bike of its side stand. There was one spot where we came up to a hairpin with the wind blowing from the rear, not much of a decline but I just could not shed speed! Stressful moments, I believe Tinus also had a tough time here with making the corner.

But later the wind got better and the gravel faster. I had another moment where i hit a low water bridge at speed and felt something hit me in the back. K immediately knew I must have forgotten to close my topbag. Sure enough it was my tool roll which I ended up sitting on. Looking back I coukd see cloves and food strewn over the road. I believe collected most valuables in the end though.

We refilled gas and tyres at Mt Fletcher where afteŕ Tinus took a bee line for home. I fell in behind the bakkie on the way to Himeville. The plan was to maybe do Sani, but to sleep over at least, with Jean dropping Jan of at Mooiriver the next day where ahenk will fetch him.
But I coukd only do 100kmph for 10minutes. I think my OBC was also recording 26kmpl or some such disgrace. I did some calculations, decided it would be awesome to do Sani again (I have in the past)  so I went for it, figuring I coukd be done by the time they get there.
After Kokstad though I was grabbing a bite and calling my wife Jean got hold of me to tell me they are going to Durban, Sani is out. I had to decide whether I would continue, I coukd do Sani still and stay over at Henk or skip all and join them for the night, he will take Jan back the next day in his faster and more economical car. So of to Durban it was, I spend little enough time with my family.

My ride to Durban then started out very good till I got bored of the highway and decided to get of it at the first 2 spoor I saw. Turns out I coukd do an awesome 10min of riding in that area as well! See pics... I am now of the opinion I shoukd really hook uo with some Durban dogs for a local ride. If you knew the area there really should be great riding to be done.

Entering Durban en route to the Bluff wasnt fun. Tracks for africa is useless in a city so I was checking my phone gps all the time. Stupid me only figured out later it wont give voice updates while music is playing. To top this off I had no mirrors and traffic was rough. Eventually they got home before me while I took a few wrong turns. It was nice to get out of my kit that afternoon. Durban is always hot and humid!

See nice first sunrise pic by Jan. He actually took a hell of a lot of photos, I just havent seen a lot. Then pics of Naudes nek, at that sign Tinus was taking the pic and I was struggling to stay upright. His bike lay over on the side stand at a much better angle than mine. Then also pic of support guys quickly sorting out my huandguard that came loose again. It was pressing against the clutch and I did not want to risk a burned clutch. This was luxury! Riding and then just standing back and munching while others sort little issues!
 

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Last pics of me on highway and getting of it. I ended up following some more scenic secondary road which had more scenery and followed the coastline better. A nice ride.
 

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Last day after catching up on Game of thrones and having a solid breakfast we set of for Bethlehem. Highway driving the first part, the chocolate alternative route to get my wife some sweet stuffs to love me again, topped off with a Golden Gate blast. I dont know when I will get tired of Golden Gate but its definitely not soon. I love that pass!
 

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Thanks
Martin for the invite
Henk and Johann for your advice
Jean, Stean and Jan for the braai every night and everything in between
Losper for one helluva route

Truly a privilege to have joined you guys.

My repairs are done and already longing for saddle time but I have to earn quite a few points with my wife.

 
At the end of a ride report I like to give my opinion on bikes or gear or whatever. So I think I can compare bikes...

I used to ride a GS and then a GSA, air cooled. So I was wondering if I would have been able to do this route with them as well. There was some spots where you really cant believe you just got over huge rocks or took a big dip and at speed. Well I akso remember having thkse moments with the GS, so in ky koinion this would have been possible on a GS. But it would be harder work and less fun.

I think the GS is lower to the ground, so it would probably scrape more, but then also it had a much better bash plate design in tthe Touratech I had. The handguards would also probably have survived and I would not have had neck bearing issues. But then I was always tightening my windscreen on the GS so I could have been having kther similar issues on them. Oh, and I hate tubes!

But the 21 front definitely made a huge difference. Confidence inspiring and it made the knocks the bike takes from the rocks better, more handleable (if that makes sense). So the GS coukd do it, but I would have struggled my arse off to keep up with those 990s.

On the mighty 990 vs 1190.
Well the 990 riders have been on some other tough outrides and rated this one uo there. So I believe it wasnt a walk in the park. I can not say they ever had any advantage wrt power delivery or tracktability or anything drivetrain related.  They ride crazy hard so could take the knocks, but I took them as well. The extra ground clearance on them was nice, the few times it mattered. But I think the 1190 having a lower seat would have helped the shorter Johann actually when the going got very tough.
And then these 990 buddies of mine was frustratingly slow on tar, and I am just average...

On reliability it is tough to compare. I had stupid issues. My neck bearings have never been properly fastened with a proper tool. Rest was stuff coming loose. The bashplate issue is just crap, the dealer says its very common for these bolts to rust and then sheer off from rattling. The 990's had a lot less issues, but these two are not your average 990R's, a lot of money was already dumped on each. Other than suspension upgrades, they already had handguard upgrades and foldable mirrors. But ignoring this, its not my first rodeo next to a 990 (950)  I do believe they are more reliable even stock for stock.
 
Thanks for sharing your excellent trip as well as the bike comparison - pretty spot on and objective :thumleft:
 
Hey Martin, I enjoyed reading your RR, I cannot consider myself hardcore or even close to that considering the real hardcore riders on the group that I have ridden with, however, thanks for the compliment, not my compliments to the bike.  As you said riding a bike is all about confidence, having confidence in your bike is a big yes especially when it comes to the type of technical riding that we did.

Loving the 990 a lot more than the first day I got it.  I must admin that it is not the most comfortable bike for long stretches of tar.  These hardcore technical sections is really where this bike is in its element.

Good luck sorting out all the issues on the 1190.

Tinus, I have to congratulate you on the riding that you did.  I could really see that you were thrown in the deep end...  You never complained and I could see your abilities improve greatly on this trip.  Looking forward to the next hardcore ride with you!!!

Seems like Jean, our backup driver wont do the backup driver again as he will join us on the bikes...  Keep it up Jean!
 
Sheepman said:
Thanks for sharing your excellent trip as well as the bike comparison - pretty spot on and objective :thumleft:

Thanks. I try to be objective but guess at the end of the day no one can truly be.

Jackol
There really is no way around having confidence or not, helped a lot when you can actually stand without hurting. Over the weekend I could feel that my feet is still not 100%, will definitely not do a trip without proper boots again.
With 1190 issues you refer to the bashplate bolt. Should be getting the quote today, will be interesting what KTM charges for a helicoil, and then to see if I can get insurance to pay!

I cant wait to get my tubeless status back!
 
Thanks for taking the time to do this Ride Report, nice story and some great pics.

Seems like you guys had a lot of fun.

I agree that Losper should start charging for the tracks and advice he so willingly hands out to people.
 
JonW said:
Thanks for taking the time to do this Ride Report, nice story and some great pics.
eikeboom said:
'n Lekker avontuur en mooi fotos!

Dankie en dankie. Terugvoer word nogal waardeer, dit bietjie boring om te skryf en dit lyk of niemand lees nie :)
 
Aish, You guys are braver than me :biggrin:


Surprised you said Monantsa was in a state. I rode through there in December and it was a lekker chilled ride, ust one or 2 steepish rocky sections.

 
Roadhawg said:
Aish, You guys are braver than me :biggrin:


Surprised you said Monantsa was in a state. I rode through there in December and it was a lekker chilled ride, ust one or 2 steepish rocky sections.

Johann complained a lot on it, he also rode it last year in a much better state.
For me it was just one of those roads that's very harsh on a bike.
 
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