Our Story of the Honda Quest 2017

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Day 9

Puros to Palmwag

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13TXjR1d-XM

At the beginning of this whole escapade, I remember thinking at Windhoek in the dealership, “12 days? 12 days is a damn long time! That’s nearly 2 weeks of doing something intense” I wasn’t sure I’d be able to stay focused for that long.

Today certainly felt a little like it was the last corner before the final straight. Also, it was good to get back into the known routine.

Getting my bit of Connectivity



Getting ready



We apparently we were going to go down a riverbed that had Hardy a little jumpy about the probability of bumping into Elephants.





Looks serious!



I’ve seen enough ride reports to know that I really wanted the elephants not to screw up the opportunity to go down an iconic bit of Namibia. Another bit of newness was that Phil and I were Tail End Charlie today. We were going to be on the big dust suck concertina.

It was my turn to be on the manual.

Right off the bat, I had a good giggle… We had to get across the puros river before we’d even warmed up. It was a long fat section of deep sand under the already beating sun. We lined up behind the queue and waited for all to get across one by one. It was just dust and a bit of drama but no-body fell off and then it was just us to go with Jaco bringing up sweep. I let Phil go and was going to ride just behind him.

As I hit the deeper sand, the bike started farting and losing momentum. ****! I’d forgotten to turn the traction control off and in my frantic haste to gear down and at the same time try hit the traction control trigger to turn it off, I hit neutral too. The bike came to an immediate stop. Best just to relax, get my act together and start again. The problem is that getting going again in hot deep sand isn’t fun. I got it all set, hooked second, dumped the clutch and let the revs head far north.

Just milliseconds later I hear this huge cry from behind me? Then it all clicked….

Jaco had followed me in and not expecting me to stall, had come to an emergency halt a meter or two directly behind me. Just then , he got Puros’ finest sand bath – it was down his jacket, in his helmet, even up heis sleeves! I know Jaco very well – we’ve spent quite a bit of time together on trips and I knew two things as I got out the river bed;

I was laughing my head off in my helmet and he wouldn’t be!
He would think I did it on purpose and it might even cost me points!

I stopped once he’d made it out and tried not to laugh as I explained and apologised.



Immediately the world changed. It goes from utter desert to this oasis between these massive mountains. The track wound itself down the river crossing from one side to the other. It’s a beautiful thing. But, it was clear that Hardy and John were jumpy and keeping it slow.



It’s a bit surreal splashing down a river in a massive desert. Some of the crossings and puddles were not shallow.



I was pretty soaked in no time. Sidi’s are not waterproof, I had a small lake in my boots but it was refreshing and a change from the 40 degree heat.





Glenn and Grant were the team ahead of us. Grant started well, but it takes it out of you if you are nervous and not wanting to hurt yourself more. His ribs, even though he was well medicated, still reminded him that taking a fall wasn’t going to be fun. I could see that he was running out of gas, he was dropping the bike every second or 3rd stretch of deep sand.



Glenn and I would race over, check he’d not hurt anything, pick his bike up and carry on. I was loving the canyon, I’m not sure Grant was.

After a particularly sticky bit where it took us a bit of time to get going again, we came around a corner, the group had stopped and were all pointing back the way we came? This was the end of the road. There was a bull elephant, mother and calf just up ahead just off to the side in the thicker reeds and bush. It was discretion that owned the day.

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In all probability, those elephants would have probably not even have blinked at our little circus. However, Honda Quest was dependant on not getting into the news for the wrongs reasons and Hardy had warned us that being safe rather than sorry was going to be the order of the day. So, we took some very distant pictures and headed back the way we came.



I hate seeing guys struggle. To help Grant out a bit, I started cutting paths off the main track to avoid the soft sand bits. I was staying mostly in the hardpack, the vegetation or the wet riverbed. It worked. He didn’t fall once on the way out.

But, right at the end once out of the canyon and re-crossing the Puros River at a place a little further up than the place we’d originally crossed at,

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Grant had a monster crash. He’d made it across the bed, but on climbing up the bank on the other side, he’d gotten kicked off line, hit a vertical bit and been launched skyward to disappear over the other side in a small explosion of dust. ****!

Amazingly, after dusting him off, nothing was broken on either him or the bike, but he was a bit pale and sore. Or should I say a bit more sore. He’d dodged another one. In my video, he says a few words. Tough man that’s for sure.





I don’t remember much of the day after that.





It was a bit anticlimactic for me and I suspect others too; We’d had to abandon a highly anticipated part of the trip and, we were re-tracing some of our steps so there wasn’t the sense of newness and anticipation. Just the regular banter at all the punctures and rest stops. Punctures now were a non-event. Everyone was very well practiced at them, I don’t think it was taking us more than 10 or so minutes to get them done. 





Superman on the left…



I do remember the road through one part being savage. It was so eroded that it didn’t need grading, it needed to be resurfaced. Namibia, apparently, has been suffering a bit financially as well as experiencing some challenges similar to ours in the corruption department. Their once fabled dirt roads were apparently not immune to these challenges and were taking a battering as a result. Johannes was scathing in his observations.

It was another super-hot day. Riding in wet boots isn’t much fun. At the lunch/puncture stop, off came my boots. Standing in my wet socks on those hot rocks did the trick. My socks and boots were nearly bone dry by the time we got rolling again. For those of you who’ve tried to dry MX boots, you know how hot it has to be to achieve that little feat.

My phone got a little misty from the water…



I gave some kids a lift again at a fuel stop



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Open road again





There’s giraffe’s back there, (crap pictures due to the water)



I think this was my least enjoyed day. Phil and I were super relaxed and just rolling along soaking it in, but, I wasn’t unhappy to be rolling into Palmwag.

Quick rest…



That evening at the bar, it was great to relax and recount the days experiences laughing at someone or another’s expense. We’d become quite close.
 
Day 7 – Marble Camp to Puros
Bit of a mixed bag for me for the day
Started off with a great breakfast  that included some leftovers from dinner that the kitchen duty boys had managed to squirrel away somehow
I won’t bullshidt and pretend I was not dreading the sand that we all knew was coming and it did punish me in the initial part of the dry river bed we turned into.... I was definitely in the last group of “survivors” Andrew described
Eventually my ribs were just killing me so exited the riverbed and headed out for a bit of farming with Stoffel (Hingsding) to get around the worst of the sand. This turned out to be not as easy as expected when the road we thought we could follow headed off in the wrong direction and we had to do some rocky koppie hopping to get back to the river. Boet ...djy’s a fokken yster
Eventually we caught up the “sand machines” of the day resting under some trees while everyone regrouped... and then it was back into the river for another 70kays of surprisingly(for me) sublime riding. Glenn and I were at the back of the pack for the day and I can’t say enough about how much the oke helped me to get through... well actually enjoy those 70kays of sand. He chose some (in my eyes anyway) unbelievable lines but it got me to the lunch stop without incident. Amazing riding
 

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...more pics from just after the 70 kays of dry river bed
 

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Day 8 – Maintenance day
What more can be said ... fixing ... cleaning .... an amazing ride for some solitude out in the desert and an amazing sunset
I think an hour or so out there on the plains of Puros  on your own does something to your soul. First thing I did was lie flat on my back on the warm sand, stared up at the sky..... and just thought about ... well ... nothing. Then I did just sits ( ;) ) on my bike and thought about more nothing. Incredible . There are normally a multitude of voices in my head clamoring for attention, but for one sweet hour ... nothing. Bliss!
 

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Kamanya said:
Day 9
/snip

Glenn and Grant were the team ahead of us. Grant started well, but it takes it out of you if you are nervous and not wanting to hurt yourself more. His ribs, even though he was well medicated, still reminded him that taking a fall wasn’t going to be fun. I could see that he was running out of gas, he was dropping the bike every second or 3rd stretch of deep sand.
...


Glenn and I would race over, check he’d not hurt anything, pick his bike up and carry on. I was loving the canyon, I’m not sure Grant was.
...

What’s that? Me kukking in the sand you say ? That’s an understatement if ever there was one.
Check this rabbit-in-the-headlights stare  :eek:

 

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Kamanya said:
/snip
I hate seeing guys struggle. To help Grant out a bit, I started cutting paths off the main track to avoid the soft sand bits. I was staying mostly in the hardpack, the vegetation or the wet riverbed. It worked. He didn’t fall once on the way out.
In all honesty without the help of these 2 okes I might still be in that canyon. Glenn & Andrew  :thumleft: :thumleft:

[quote author=Kamanya]
But, right at the end once out of the canyon and re-crossing the Puros River at a place a little further up than the place we’d originally crossed at,

Grant had a monster crash. He’d made it across the bed, but on climbing up the bank on the other side, he’d gotten kicked off line, hit a vertical bit and been launched skyward to disappear over the other side in a small explosion of dust. ****!

Amazingly, after dusting him off, nothing was broken on either him or the bike, but he was a bit pale and sore. Or should I say a bit more sore. He’d dodged another one. In my video, he says a few words.
[/quote]
I remember thinking "OH SCHIIIDTTTT !!!!  and then standing around with Glenn asking if I was OK , trying to breath and figure out what had just happened.
It felt like a giant river-canyon god had dished out the universe's biggest lummy to my right shoulder. Weird feeling. It was numb but moer-sore at the same time... and I couldn't lift my arm.  But there was no way I was finishing this adventure any way other than on the back of that AT. Bike was fine, so after some "dusting off" used left hand to lift right onto throttle and off we went.  :ricky:

Rest of the day was a bit of a blur especially once the numbness wore off . Turns out my dodging skills were a little more on the slower side than I thought. The chassis would need a bit of straightening out when I got back home


 

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It was beautiful riding in that canyon though
 

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Day7  Marble camp - Purros

Today we had the privilege to be the first team to follow Tau.
So early morning we headed out from Marble camp with our destination being Purros. And since I had the honours of riding the DCT for the previous 2 days, I was back to the manual for today.  We started slow in convoy for the drone to get the footage seen in the video but later we started to spread out again.

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The road twisted through plains and we saw some giraffes running next to us at a stage.  Not knowing how far the crew was riding behind us, I later asked Hardy if he saw the giraffes running next to the road. They were obviously quite a distance away as Hardy asked " How would I have seen them"  :imaposer:      We later laughed and said that we were under the impression that Hardy sees all and Chantal replied, yes he does  :eek: ;D
:imaposer:

This was a very enjoyable and interesting road to take through the Otjiha plains. As can be seen in the video below, the route tangles and diverges and joins again at different places making this like "route lotto".  you pick a route, and see what it will bring, it might be 2 spoor, it might be sandy , it might be hard gravel,  but they all headed in the same direction. It was really awesome looking back and seeing everyone on different tracks but all heading in the same direction.

[youtube]https://youtu.be/lnE-C3xebtM[/youtube]


a Little later we stopped at another one of the lone men and we had to take some pics before we headed off again.
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Another few kms down the road we came across the Khumib riverbed, but this time round John didnt cross it and said that we are now going to ride in the riverbed......

wait.... say what now?......  ok bring it on  :)

Luckily by now Andrew knew that I wasn't very good at riding sand, and on the previous days he coached me a bit. This however was all done on short pieces of sand , and not a riverbed as the one we would tackle now. I was however not going to let the challenge get the better of me and took it head on. (My ma maak nie bang kinders groot nie :p)
At first I struggled a lot, and dropped the bike once or twice (or three times to be exact  ::) ) however Kamanya was always on my shoulder to coach me and shout tips and to help me get going again.

Every now and again Tau would stop, for the group to catch up, and soon we heard that Mcsack and Hinksding would be riding next to the river , making their own track. Once everyone caught up, we would set off again, but it was clear that a lot of the guys were struggling in the sand and the group got separated.
Just as I was getting the hang of riding the sand we were given the option to get out of the river.
As Kamanya mentioned in his post, it was made clear to us that by getting out of the river we would not be penalised, but sticking to the river and then screwing up would cost you dearly.
So we had a quick discussion and decided that Kamaya would stick to the riverbed and I would join the rest of the group that got out.

This was a difficult decision for me to make, as I wanted to ride the riverbed, and just before the stop I was really getting the hang of it and actually enjoying the sand. In the end however as Kamanya said, the better option, competition wise was for me to get out of the riverbed. I was a bit disappointed that I would not be riding the riverbed anymore but understood that the risk of staying in and loosing points in the end would not be worth it.

So as the small group of guys headed off in the riverbed we rode to the nearest road and was told to wait there for the other part of the group behind us that was told to get out of the river.

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Photo by charliepappa:  waiting for the other group.


Once the other group caught up to us, we headed off again and after a while once again caught up to the group ahead of us.

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So we were finally all out of the riverbed and riding on the hard gravel and we all rode up to a small lookout were we again regrouped and had our lunch.
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I was still a bit disappointed in the turn of events earlier however I knew I made the right decision and was starting to pick up again when we were told that there was another riverbed, the Hoarusib river , that we would take, and this time there was no other option, we had to take the riverbed. :ricky:

I was overjoyed!  I would again get the chance to ride the sand and riverbeds! So away we go, and I took to the sand just as I left it and soon I was really enjoying it!  We had a couple of stops for everyone to catch up before we would set off again. I was really having the time of my life.

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Before I knew we were at the end of the riverbed where the crew was waiting and making us some Jaffles.

while I was taking this photo and waiting for the rest to arrive, the content crew took the next photo of me.

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Something that maybe slipped Kamanya's mind when he typed his report was that out of the whole trip in the riverbed, he waited until this moment, where everyone could see him, including the crew, to take a tumble.  :eek:  He was trying to get past the support vehicles and get his bike to where ours was parked, when the soft sand jumped out of nowhere and attacked him  :imaposer:

After an excellent lunch we headed off again and from here it was hard gravel road, and sometimes even gravel highway all the way to Purros.

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Stopping to fix a puncture. This time Tau was the unlucky one.

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Later the evening we rode into camp in convoy again to the most spectacular scenery you can imagine.
I would love to visit here again  one day.  :ricky:

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Day 8  Purros Maintenance day

This was our rest day, or at least, maintenance day as we were told we would not be resting.  ;)

I woke up early morning and watched the sun come up over the desert landscape.

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we had some help from Scrat's brother who brought us some fuel and also to transport the stricken KTM that we retrieved from marble camp.

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our goal for the day was to service the bikes.  Oil change, Oil filter change and checking everything else was ok.  Soon after we started however the filter removal tool broke and in the end we were only able to do a oil change.  At least one of our bikes had a new filter on  :thumleft:

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All clean after the major service  ::) :biggrin:
The local Himba offered to wash the bikes for a very reasonable fee. In the end this counted against us. but if pressed I can think of a couple of reasons why it was a good idea to have them wash our bikes for us. Laziness not being one.  :imaposer:



after the maintenance was done to the bikes we had some time to ourselves. 

I took this time to wander around camp. and to take in the scenery.


This is what happens if you get a power connection for the first time in a couple of days.
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the view from the lookout deck. From here we could get enough cell reception to send a few photos and to let all at home know we are still ok, as we were out of reception since Epupa.
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some evidence of the local ellies:
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Later the evening we were told to put on our boots and helmets and to grab a cup.  we were not sure what was going to happen and a lot of theories started. including that we might need to push the bikes in the sand. Kamanya and I had a quick discussion, that if this was the case, I would do the bulk of the pushing as I am physically more fit and he would steer the bike as he is more skilled at that than I am. Something about taking a cup with threw me though and I thought that perhaps we would be doing some sort of skills challenge, like moving water from one area to another without spilling water from your cup. So I took my travel mug with its lid, just in case  :imaposer:

In the end we had nothing to worry about, and all that was planned for us was an hour of solitude in the desert where we could have some alone time.
Nothing else puts everything quite in perspective as did this hour of contemplating. It gives you a new perspective over life, time, and everything that you hold dear.
After spending an hour in the desert (it sure didnt feel like an hour, it felt a lot shorter) we quickly headed to a lookout to see the sunset and have a cup of OBS.

solitude:
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So the box on the photo says Castrol. What Castrol oil was used to service the bikes?
 
ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS said:
So the box on the photo says Castrol. What Castrol oil was used to service the bikes?

Gold tops - Full synth Power 1 4T  (guessing 10W50) ?
 
BiG DoM said:
ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS said:
So the box on the photo says Castrol. What Castrol oil was used to service the bikes?

Gold tops - Full synth Power 1 4T  (guessing 10W50) ?

No Dom. I was not synthetic oil. Castrol Actevo 4T 10W40 if I remeber correctly
 
Twister said:
BiG DoM said:
ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS said:
So the box on the photo says Castrol. What Castrol oil was used to service the bikes?

Gold tops - Full synth Power 1 4T  (guessing 10W50) ?

No Dom. I was not synthetic oil. Castrol Actevo 4T 10W40 if I remeber correctly

Ok - was a guess. Actevo should be good and I used to use in in my GS on dealer recommendation some years back. (Also some still believe one should not run a bike in on synthetic).
 
Besides what has been already mentioned I have little to add till the second last day (will post about that later). Except, I had mentioned earlier that we where getting to the riding I enjoy and O was it way better than expectations. The section after Van Zyl's till Sesfontein was perticularly special for me for a number of reasons.

First being that I had,had very little contact with home. This was self inflicted as I wanted little influence from business and home life on my mind, I wanted to bathe in this experience. This came to a crashing end in Purros when I felt I wanted to share this wonderful place with my better half and could not get hold of her, we eventually spoke but I am not sure if she realized how special that was and how special that place had become to me.

Secondly being the usual planning agent, route plotter and logistic guy I had decided before the trip that I would take the role of a sheep in contrast to the norm and just follow the "lion" where ever he pointed I would go, even if it was to hell and back. This was working really well as I had become so into the ride that real life had become a distant memory. I was living in the moment, so much so that I recall every turn and obstacle but now my brain had become a sponge absorbing the beauty and very little else, like the names of places and rivers etc. This I am sure showed later in the test where I felt like a sub A student in a matric exam. Ironically as I unpack the trip everything is coming back to me. I had set out to enjoy what I had lost over the years by being the station master and wow had I found it! I had always been very mindful and careful that I did not let my pleasure become work but it had and Quest had awoken my lust for this lifestyle again.

Thirdly the trip had so far been wonderful, the riding amazing but the beauty of Purros and the time alone overlooking the camp had got me thinking I am chasing the Dollar and not life. This is life and work is getting in the way of it, Jaco had said to me earlier when I voiced my concern that the one needs the other. I am not convinced yet and will one day work out how I can LIVE and stop existing.

For me Purros, the day leading up to it and the day that followed was special. I was for the first time in a long time at peace. For that Hardy and Barend I will be eternally grateful. Thank you.
 
This is life and work is getting in the way of it, Jaco had said to me earlier when I voiced my concern that the one needs the other. I am not convinced yet and will one day work out how I can LIVE and stop existing.

Man if we could only work out how to live and not exist. But money always gets in the way. 
 
Bwana said:
This is life and work is getting in the way of it, Jaco had said to me earlier when I voiced my concern that the one needs the other. I am not convinced yet and will one day work out how I can LIVE and stop existing.

Man if we could only work out how to live and not exist. But money always gets in the way.

For me this was quite a big thing as up until then I have always thought I enjoy what I do. Now I am not so sure. Being a business owner in retail is not what it was 20years ago. Ouch that makes me feel old!
 
"This came to a crashing end in Purros when I felt I wanted to share this wonderful place with my better half and could not get hold of her, we eventually spoke but I am not sure if she realized how special that was and how special that place had become to me."
                                                                                                                                                      - Throttle Jockey


You and me both Glenn..

 
working through my gopro footage of Day 9 in Purros canyon at the moment....


here is a little teaser  :imaposer: :imaposer:


Kamanya thought that Throttle Jockey was working hard and needed to cool down and hydrate  :imaposer:

It was all in good fun and it showed how much we were enjoying the canyon.

[youtube]https://youtu.be/5FcXqdBL1x0[/youtube]



photo below...  having a laugh about it at the next stop.
 

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Forgive me Father for I have sinned

I have to confess that I have missed some deadlines on updating the report and have been punished accordingly.

I had to scroll back to my last proper post and this not only made me relive the adventure but I also had to see pictures of Kamanya’s extraordinarily hairy body - made me think of that program - Ripley’s Believe it or not.

Some things have still not changed for me:

1. I want to go back everyday

2. I still love the AT.

As I have missed a few days and in order not to bore anyone I’ll post a few random pictures just to catch up.

Hardy told us before the trip that technology sometimes does not work out in the Kaokoland. They had everything planned to a T.

Tau stuck to the old school way of doing things.

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The riverbeds was simply amazing. Once you get up to speed and float the sand it feels like rally racing - I guess.
And yes it is both sandy and rocky.

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That afternoon we got served with the best jaffles for lunch. It was a very welcome break.

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Puros really is a special place. Something in my opinion that can only be experienced, not explained.

I was looking forward to the “maintenance day” hoping to get some rest, but alas it was anything but.

We serviced the bikes and cleaned it ourselves. I’ll confess that I saw the others taking their bikes for a wash and wanted to do the same but Barbara said no. We do it ourselves and she saw to it that we do a proper job.

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As far as I know only 2 teams washed and cleaned the bikes themselves. Hardy asked us about it and I am still not sure whether it was a good or bad thing that we did it ourselves.

Today that very same bike belongs to Barbara and she must be chuffed that she looked after it so well.

Despite everybody being in competition mode there was some time to just enjoy this very special place as a group of friends.

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This was also the only day of the trip that we did washing. Not only the bikes but the very dirty and smelly kit as well.

And then it was time to move on. We were all cleaned up and the repairs done ready for the final days. Still hoping this will never end.



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