Day 8
Kariba to Binga
408.6 kms
7:15 – 17:00
This was again a hard day’s riding. We woke early and having had lots of practice in packing, were ready to leave at just past seven. Our route took us halfway down along lake Kariba to the small town, Binga. The morning offered great twisties and spectacular views through a big nature reserve. There we’re way fewer people and villages next to the road, but the villages were now a lot bigger. Many signs next to the road warned of the danger of elephants nearby and after finding them on our route the day before, I was excited to see more. We had some rocky sections, but nothing crazy. An easy day ahead of us…
We could notice that more tourists pass through here. People were less surprised to see us and all the pre-school kids were standing next to the road, hands cupping out, begging. There were more buildings next to the road, but most of them condemned and abandoned.
As I said earlier, there are schools everywhere and even if there was nothing else in the village, they each had a neat sign, showing the name and shield. This area’s school uniforms were now khaki. I mention this, because it makes me think that there must be a lot of national investment in education.
We were stopped and our bikes disinfected at a tsetse fly checkpoint (read: Man on plastic chair with clipboard and can of Doom), crossed a big river and stopped for lunch. Then everything changed. Suddenly the great views were gone and all our focus was on the road. We were faced with about 200kms of hard gravel covered with a 5 - 10cm pebble blanket. It is not hard to keep the bike up and stay on it, but having fun whilst doing so is! My kidneys are still there somewhere, after being shaken from my body and all the concentration power I had saved up during varsity is now gone! This was by far the worst road we had on our entire trip.
The locals here obviously have no idea what “good road” means, because we asked every single one and they all assured us that the road ahead is great. Eventually we met a young man on a bicycle who shared our frustration.
80 kms before Binga, the pebbles receded and we could speed up. Rocks and ditches found their hiding in the shadow of trees as it crept over the road, edging us more and more to its side. A couple of close calls later and we met up with the tar road. We found our campsite just in time to wash off the day’s blood and sweat in the pool, enjoying the sunset / Lake view combo and have Dawie’s KWV who was buming a trip with us all the way from home.
We left camp at about 8 in search of a restaurant. Not really kitting up, we headed for a building just across the road. It turned out to be a shebeen playing load music with words I didn’t understand. The gps believed that there was another option, just a few kms away. Half an hour later, we were battling a sand tweespoor with plakkies and t-shirts in the dark only to hear the place had already closed! We returned to the shebeen and had some great chincken for $7 and beers for $1 each eventually having a good kuier. Later a big main in a shiny suit approached us, looking very intimidating. He was the “leader” of the town and came over just to thank us for coming to Binga and supporting the locals. Tired, we went to bed early.