S&M Tour.

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Smithey

Race Dog
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Messages
2,222
Reaction score
1
Location
Stoke-on-Trent
Bike
NER-A-CAR
We planned for a nine day trip around certain parts of the country. Mostly the Eastern Cape, Western Cape and the Free State.

We had a look at a lot of ride reports for ideaâ??s and inspiration. Asked other dogs their opinions. Browsed the internet for places of interest and thumb sucked the rest as you will see.

We wanted a holiday and a ride to remember, we got just that  :thumleft:

Iâ??ve been tinkering with the 950 sorting out little issues the previous few weeks. On the Thursday night before our departure my petrol pump finally died. This would not be a problem as I had bought the Facet 40105 pump a few weeks before as a backup. I left work Friday morning at about 12 heading home to change the petrol pumps.

A quick 30 minutes work and the new pump was installed. Well it doesnâ??t work. I donâ??t know how the other 950 riders got this pump to work, but I couldnâ??t. Petrol starvation and a very shit throttle response was soon evident. I messed with the idle on the carbs and could still not get the bike to run correctly. By 3pm I had enough of this shit. I called Mav who works round the corner from Pro-Action in Johannesburg and pleaded with him to go pick me up an OEM pump from them. Yep, kak and betal old Smithey. We were now R2200 less from the holiday fund. Mav got home to Vanderbijlpark around 4ish and I fitted the pump. No hassles what so ever. Thanks buddy, I owe you big for this favour.

Malibu got here just as I was finishing the bike off. Relieved to say the least that we were still on track for 9 days of adventure.

We spent the night going over the route and checking our packing to make sure we did not forget anything. We did.

Smitheyâ??s shaving kit.
Smitheyâ??s deodorant.
Smitheyâ??s braai grill.

You get the picture. Smithey donâ??t pack as well as Malibu. They were silly items that were bought on the route but still a nuisance to forget  :deal:

Saturday morning we were up bright and early. Bikes were packed and we were set to go.

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I had a little dance around the bikes for good luck before we set off.

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It was a boring 540km ride from Vanderbijlpark to Gariep Dam. We hauled down the N2 at an average speed of 125km. It got really cold around 2pm and we had to stop at the side of the road to put on our rain suits for some warmth.

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There are two sections of road that have been turned into single lane due to road works. This was very uncomfortable for two bikers having to wait 10 minutes in the wind and cold I can tell you. The wind really picked up just before Gariep and at least 3 times me and Malibu we thrown over the middle of the road into on coming traffic. It was scary and we slacked off to about 100kmh for the remaining distance  :p

We found a café and bought some supplies for the night and headed into the Forever Resort. It was R120 for the night and the cheeky people wanted another R20 for Malibuâ??s bike. The were politely told that two bikes have the same amount of wheels as a car and they can Voetsek. They voided the extra R20. Itâ??s a really fancy place. The ablution facilities at this place are immaculate. The camping sites were very neat and tidy.

We found a nice area and set camp, the first of 4 tent nights to come.

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We tried some arty shots whilst we waited for the fire to get ready.

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It got extremely cold as soon as the sun set and we put on all our under shirts and even a rain suit came out.

Malibu doesnâ??t handle the cold to good  :D

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Me checking dinner  :drif:

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This night we made one of the biggest mistakes we could have on the trip. A drunken couple pulled up in their cage and asked if we had any toilet paper for them. We gave them the only roll we had and suffered for it later in the trip.

Next morning we were up and on the road at 9am for the haul down to Addo National park. I thought we had about 100km of tar and then dirt highways. My planning and map reading skills leave something to be desired.

Between Venterstad and Steynsburg stopping for a smoke break Malibu saw the most amazing flock of Blue Cranes. I didnâ??t even know we had a national bird. Never to old to learn old chap.

Blue Cranes in Flight

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Me swearing that this was a gravel road on Garmap  :'(

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Riding on tar is really really boring at times so we had to stop for coffee in Steynsburg and re-kit as it was getting warmer. This is the back of the place.

Coffee shop Steynsburg

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Then it was off down Hofmeyr where we found a cute little farm shop with exorbitant prices. R35 for home made jam made me cringe and walk right out of the place.

It was pretty out-side the place and Malibu tried out her hand at the arty pics again.

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I had a sneaky beer and tried to figure out what this contraption was, a seeder I was told by my handy walking encyclopedia  :imaposer:

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We hit the road again down towards Cradock and I was sure that this time it was going to be gravel. I had put to many points into the route on the gps so I could not navigate the roads and had to constantly move the screen with the finder button. I couldnâ??t find the right turn offs and we started heading out on the N10. We done about 2km, stopped and decided to head back into Cradock and just take our time finding the route again. We did, and how fantastic it turned out.

R337 towards Somerset East which turned into an un-named road towards Addo.

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Yeeehhhaaaaa!  DIRT!  :thumleft: We had found it!  After all the miles on tar, this was such a welcome sight.  We set off at a pace and contemplated all that was to come.

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After a short while, the road became a stunning pass. We just had to stop to enjoy the views and hope that the rest of the trip would be this beautiful.

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Malibu was so smitten with the views that she was not paying attention when deflating her tyres, soâ?¦ she had to pump againâ?¦ what a giggle!  Daft bird!  :imaposer:

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We balanced the camera rather precariously on the baggage to get this oneâ?¦ hence Malibuâ??s worried look!

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After many miles of incredible views from the various sections of the road we had â??discoveredâ? we hit the flat lands on the other side.  And the roads were fantastic!  Twist the Ear was screaming in my head, and that we did  :thumleft:

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Miles and miles of dirt roads!  Heaven.  Most of the day was spent roaring down dirt highways that just never seemed to end.  There was the odd T-Junction that was dealt with by looking left, looking right, and then usually just turning left!  Malibu was so proud of me for forgetting the GPS and just riding for the sake of riding!  Due to my un-usual attitude to riding, we entered Addo from an un-known gateâ?¦ but the riding in there was just amazing.  There was a lot of game, Ostrich by the dozen, Kudu, Gemsbok, and others!  On the side of the road there was a board indicating a Lodge, so we trundled down the road, anticipating a cold one, but to our disappointment, there was not a soul to be seen!  The entire place was locked up!  Concern about the lateness in the day, we decided to proceed on and hopefully find a living soul who could direct us to some form of accommodation.  Miles later, we found a rather slovenly looking park official who charged us to stay at the camping facilities in the park.  After donating to some fund, we proceeded over the small hills to the dam.

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What met us were the most stunning views, and nothing else.  The toilet facility was a long-drop, probably dug some-time in the 1900â??s!  No water and nothing else for that matter. 

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After a brief discussion, priorities were set!  The obvious elephant and hippo tracks around the place indicated lots, and lots of fire wood would be necessary to fend off the wild beasties!  We located a number of dried trees and stripped them, oblivious to the thorns that were a good 3 inches long! 

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Camp was built, rock for the fire pit was found and within half an hour, we had established a super camp!  Water was a concern, but Malibuâ??s hydro-pack, that I had laughed at, came in very handy!  There was enough for Coffee and as a mix for my Scotch! So, perfect camp with a sumptuous meal of Bully Beef, fried onions, slices of tomatoes, day-old bread rolls, and Creamy Coffee!  (Marula Cream Coffee)

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The wind was still blowing, but that had just blown up the surface of the dam and we enjoyed the evening at the fire listening to the waves crashing just a few meters from us!  ;)

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A snap photo of our tent alluded to having wild beasts already on camp, probably circling, waiting for the opportunity to eat us, but then we discovered that it was just our trusting steedsâ?¦ with reflective paws.

The only real animals that tried to attack us were a few bats and a bunny rabbit  :imaposer:

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Early morning on the shores of the Darling Damâ?¦ appropriately named!  What a beautiful morning! 

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Because we took a different route into Addo, we obviously had to take a different route out.  At this time, we lost power on the camera, so we donâ??t have any pictures of the amazing route we rode from Addo to Kirkwood except for a few on the cell phone.  The dirt pass we rode over was truly stunning, and the gorges were spectacular.

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I was running low on fuel now, and at a t-junction we had friendly help from a local farmer, short route to the tar â?? 5kmâ??s or long route â?? 17kmâ??s!  We took the 17kmâ??s route. 

We hit the tar, the R75 and stopped at the first petrol station!  If you could call it that.  There was a cold Zamalek, but no fuel.  The pumps were older than my mother! Malibu had to take a pic of me drinking a Zamalek at the empty pumps  :mwink:

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The KTM gently cruised into Kirkwood on the fuel fumes, Malibu grinning â??cos she still had some fuel left!  The smells of Kirkwood?  Neroli!  We wafted in and wafted out! The orange trees were in full flush and the concentration of aroma took us down to 20km/h as we tried to get as many wafts in a possible! 

From there we headed to Utenhage, Hankey and Patensie. On a side note, we went through Van Stadenâ??s Pass, which was VERY closed for road-works!  Kak met dit!  We ride DS, so we skipped the barricade by bouncing the walls and preceded through, waving at all the strange people that were waving at us in a â??WTF U DOINGâ? style! Was a fat laugh!

We re-fueled in Patensie, grabbed a burger and bought supplies. 

Next stop, Komdomo for the night!

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Beef curry for dinner was on the menu. The beef cubes we bought were out of this world. Marked as goulash it was actually fillet.

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Malibu indulged in a few Marlula coffees and was off to bed early. I discovered that the valley was a great source of entertainment. Can you say WOOOHOOO woohooo  wooohooo. Yep, I discovered a mountain echo and sang the night away supping Scotch listening to my self.

Up early and away at 9am. We tend to fart around in the mornings witch was actually very enjoyably. No schedule is a great thing.

Entering Baviaans Kloof.

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We met a French cyclist on this bridge who had his whole left arm bandaged from a fall up the pass. He was telling us in a rather French way, â?? Zat pass is veryy dangerous, beeg stones and ze rocksâ? â??Ze make you cryâ?  Oops we though, it might get tough from here on in.

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The first water we hit and I had to walk it. I wasnâ??t ready to get my boots wet so I levitated the crossing.

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Looking for â??Ze beeg rocksâ? we realized we were at the top of Combrinkâ??s pass. Nothing difficult so far as both bikes handled the dirt easily.

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Arty shot.

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Fashion shot

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On to Holgates pass, still looking for â??Ze beeg rocksâ?

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Somewhere down from Holgates we had our first decent water crossing. Something we had both been looking forward to.

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SandVlaakte I think this is called.

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I saw 5 Kuduâ??s running across the road and was trying to indicate to Malibu to pull up to have a look. Her bike is so noisy it scared them away !!!

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The river crossing at Smitskraal. What a jol. I walked the crossing first to make sure where the 2 holes were in the road. Left or right from our side.
Malibu crossing the first section.

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Smithey crossing.

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Howâ??s this one for an arty pic 

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Second section, Malibu cruising it no problem.

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Slight falter to the left with a quick recovery brought my babes over safe.

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My turn. It was rather rocky but my long legs stood fast and helped me over the hurdles.

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On top of Grasnek Pass I tried out my Elvis impersonation.

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Malibu reminded me not to be over confident or I would end up in the ravine.

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Before the exit gate we came across this little chap that refused to get off the road.

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Malibu was laughing at me because I was directing the tortoise off the road. It actually worked and caused us both to burst into fits for 5 minutes.

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Leaving the nature reserve and heading off into the unknown.

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Arty shot of the donkeys.

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By this time it was so hot we had removed the jacket liners and I was riding in a vest. We stopped at most of the water we could find to dip the buffs in to keep us cool. It was a fantastic day but we knew it couldnâ??t last. The wind is a beast.

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We were now on a run to Makkedaat caves, our only reservation on the trip. We passed a Police Station and then found the best whoopsies everâ?¦ a long run of brilliant bumpsâ?¦ was a blast, the wind a bit annoying, but still fantastic.  A little while later we popped into Babes se Winkel for some supplies and watched the donkey carts racing around.  Then on again to the caves.  The wind was now becoming an issue, so we were very relived when the signboard for the caves came into view.  Well, the lady there is a hunny. She baked us a loaf of farm bread and later delivered it with a selection of home-made jams and a pile of lamb chops. 

The lodges are built into the caves, and are too gorgeous for words.  We had booked for the open cave, but they had upgraded us to the big one.

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Views from the upper deck.

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Smithey looking very relaxed!

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Malibu perusing her surroundings!

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The post-Baviaans laundry tub.

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Trying to get Smitheys boots dry.

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The wind as it was howling through the gorge.

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Karoo Lamb Chops and home baked breadâ?¦ hot with butter!  Yummmy!

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A dirty GS.

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Out of Baviaans we headed towards Willowmore to fill up the bikes. We met about 9 KTM lads on there way to RR heading there via the Kloof. Swopped some info on road conditions and off they set. I hope they all made it there ok as the wind was picking up again.

We headed down towards Uniondale for a breakfast before the Avontuur road â?? Prince Alfredâ??s Pass. Our first meet with a Harley couple who were on their way to Graaff Reinet for the Harley rally. They were just as cold as us and were also digging in the wardrobe for extra clothes to wear.

The start of the pass.

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The route down.

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A spectacular gorge, one of many.

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An old house on route.

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Arty picture from the building.

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Slamming down the forest road towards Knysna. We almost got taken out by two guys on quads. They were gassing it, and I guess the same as us having a great time.

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We eventually made it to the coast.  Turned onto the N2 and proceeded to Knysna.  Following the GPS, we headed for the Knysna Heads where there was to be camping places.  Found no camping spots but did stop for a few pics of the famous heads. 

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We decided to look for camping places elsewhere, and the shock the Malibu showed regarding the changes that had occurred in Knysna was obvious.  She was devastated.  The quaint little town she was hoping to show me was gone.  Too much development has turned the place into something completely different to what she remembered when sailing in years ago.  We did however meet a super chap who owned a restaurant.  He offered for us to camp in his garden.  Malibu commented on the looks my ass was getting, so we decided to try further a field.

We headed down the coastal route into Sedgefield. Followed some tourist boards and ended up at a B&B on Myoli Beach. What a jol this place was. They basically gave us the run of the establishment. We were the only people there and partied with the staff till late in the night. It started to rain about 9pm but this didnâ??t stop us venturing onto the roof much later to check out the Jacuzziâ??s.

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Balcony view.

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Roof view

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Entering the beach

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Malibu rocks

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I had to teach the barman how to make a hand grenade once the night progressed.
Pull the pin and drink it

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Dump the nade

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KaBoom

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The next day, with no plans on where to go next, we decided to go ride an ostrich in Oudtshoorn.  We set off, now relegated to tar again for the short, very scenic ride through Wilderness, on to George and then out through the Outeniqua pass back into the Klein Karoo. 

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We arrived at Oudtshoorn, only to be informed that I was too fat to ride a silly bird that can push a rugby ball out itâ??s a@@.  Darn!
Well, there was an advert for the Calitzdorp Spa.  Ooooh, hot springs in the mountains.  Sounded good.  So, again, we shot off and headed for the hot springs.

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Fantastic place, R81 and all the swimming you can do!  We spent the evening in the roman-style bath, warm, wet and content! 

No bar on site! Had to drown my sorrows!

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I had bought a bag of bird meat in Oudtshoorn, and we proceeded to braai every variable that it came in!  Well, Malibu was in her element and ate loads of the stuff, with the Gooseberry marinade I had made, but as far as I was concerned, terrible stuff!  Just did not like it at all.

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I was told to stop taking pictures of Malibu at the camp site so I just had to find another subject!

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Leaving Calitzdorp spa the next morning, this was the scene.  The black storm clouds were blowing in and we decided to hi-tail it inland.

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We rode through the Meiringsspoort pass after Oudtshoorn. I discovered here that my cornering skills are almost non existent.  Four GS boys left me feeling like a tit on the road. I'll be working on this the next few weeks. Malibu says I have gotten better since the start of the trip, but I need a lot of riding to get it right. Corners scare me and it shows. Another hurdle to over come.

From here on in we didnâ??t take the camera out much. We were to busy fighting the wind and really not enjoying the ride anymore. 230km is all we got in to Beaufort West and we were finished. Found a Spur, cause I was lus for spicy chicken wings. Spoke to the locals and got a tip on a really nice B&B down the road. Booked in, quick shower and we took a walk down the main street. Nothing much to report except the same old local town drunk seems to find you and beg for money no matter where you go.

Couple of drinks in the Dros and we headed to the B&B for Pot Noodles for dinner. Found a little pub and restaurant at the B&B and spoke to other travelers for a few hours. Fantastic people doing exactly the same as we were but with different means of transport.

Next morning we decided to try for home. No checking of the time, no odometer checks, we just ride and see what happens.

We ended up in a convoy of about 30 Harleys returning from their Rally in Graaf Reinett. Some very nice people and a few pretentious twats. We had a laugh with them at the road work stops and it was actually very enjoyable.

Waiting on the Harleys to catch up.  :imaposer: Harleys f@rk off we didnt wait for many.

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We drove the whole day with stops every 150km or so. We got back into Vanderbijlpark just before 9 last night. 12 hours on the road and 939km done.


Total trip of  2764km in 8 days.

We both fought over the keyboard writing this so excuse the different styles.
 
Very very nice Smithey and Mal

How do you guys like my side of the country. :ricky:
 
CAPTAIN SLOW said:
Very very nice Smithey and Mal

How do you guys like my side of the country. :ricky:

Its beautiful, the people are so friendly and a hidden treasure is behind every corner.




The wind you can @$!# keep for your self  :imaposer:
 
Excellent report and pics, thanks for posting. I can think of no better way to tour our country. Two people sharing every experience, riding to same roads, and sharing a tent.

:thumleft: :thumleft:

Congrats to the two of you.
 
Thanks for all the comments so far. We are both sitting here in a daze that its actually over, reading the ride report again and again, and.................. planning the next trip  :thumleft:

New drug of choice, LIFE and ADVENTURE.
 
great report and pictures, thanks for sharing. Wind can be a bummer in the cape , but you get used to it.
 
Smithey said:
Thanks for all the comments so far. We are both sitting here in a daze that its actually over, reading the ride report again and again, and.................. planning the next trip  :thumleft:

New drug of choice, LIFE and ADVENTURE.

That tends to happen when you buy a 950 :thumleft:
 
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