Short way around the delta

[Xpat]

Hahaha that's always the problem with routeing like this  :lol8: You never really know what you going to find, locked gate, rocks the size of your bike etc. but its all kind of part of the adventure. I've headed down 40km of  farm/gravel roads only to find a large locked gate at the far end making turn back and ride around.  atch:

That is why I prefer to plot routes in Botswana, Mozambique, Zim, Swazi and Lesotho - no, or very little, private property there so you can be sure you are not going to be stopped by gate, which is highly likely in SA. But even these countries may throw a steep staircase in to stop you.

 

[GStry]

Awesome trip Xpat, enjoyed it and the pics. Thanks

Would appreciate some advice as I'm deep into planning a trip and hit some snags. I leave from Durban on the 21st September, doing Lesotho, Botswana, Namibia (maybe Vic Falls from Zim side) and down to the Cape, then back to Durban .
I called the [email protected] to make booking at Kukonje Island and Kubu. Was told "Thank you for your mail. Please note that motor cycles are not allowed inside the reserve". I'm assuming she's talking about Makgadikgadi in my case, as I will be doing the same route you did to Gweta from Letlhakane. Do I just do it? Obviously Chobe, Moremi and Savuti will be out of bounds.

I will also be doing Hunters Road and it says you need a permit. Where do you get the permits from. Can you expand on this.

Thanks Geoff

 

[Xpat]

I haven't been there since pandemic, but I seriously doubt that you are not allowed on Makgadikgadi on a bike (obviously outside of the Makgadikgadi / Nxai pan NP - but that is to the west and neither Kukonje, nor Kubu is part of it - they are both dozens of km to the east of the park boundary). I have seen number of ppl visit there recently on bikes and there are regular rallies organized on the pans on bikes and quads. So I would just merrily ride over there as I have done about 10 times before.

I have done Hunter's road coupe of times and never had or seeked any permit. I have bumped into BDF couple of times and they had zero problem with me being there and never asked for any permit. Not saying you might not need one, but I doubt it and I will just ride it again next time I'm there.

You can actually do quite a bit of riding in the Okavango delta. You are correct that you are not allowed in the parks themselves, but you can get legally on public road to Khwai river (which is basically the same as being in Moremi, just on the norther bank of the Khwai river and camp in the Khwai village (there are number of camping options. You can also rider the cutlines that run along the 19th parallel, as sell as road running west from Khwai village to Seronga through the delta itself. But it is not for feint-hearted - if things go wrong there at the worst place you have 100 km or so of deep sand to walk with big five roaming freely everywhere. this is indeed the toughest / dodgiest riding in the Southern Africa by far, so consider it only if you are into real adventure. T700 - if that is what you ride - is not going to help being very heavy and top heavy - that area is much better suited for 500 / 450 performance singles.

But hey, I have done it on XT660Z which is much worse than T700 (660 is actually one of the worst bikes ever made ) and I'm still here - so if you are keen I can send you the tracks and off you go. But it is indeed very risky - especially if you are going solo. Here is report from that XT660Z ride if you are interested:
https://wilddog.net.za/threads/christmas-safari.151222/

 

[GStry]

Many thanks for for the reply Xpat and I have come to the same conclusion, to just go.

I will be travelling with a friend on a GS800 which helps, but don't want to overdo the difficulty to be honest. I'm pushing 72 and I've picked up my bike enough in my life and even though its inevitable, I don't need to plan it. Sand is fine in stretches, its impossible to avoid in the Kalahari and I'm prepared for that, but will leave the hardcore to you young guys who can also run fast. Medium core is fine.
I do want to make this an epic ride though which I hope will include the delta.

I am busy reading your Christmas safari, I will finish that then come back to you with some questions if you don't mind. Thanks again.
Cheers Geoff

 

[Oilhead]

Awesome trip Xpat, enjoyed it and the pics. Thanks

Would appreciate some advice as I'm deep into planning a trip and hit some snags. I leave from Durban on the 21st September, doing Lesotho, Botswana, Namibia (maybe Vic Falls from Zim side) and down to the Cape, then back to Durban .
I called the [email protected] to make booking at Kukonje Island and Kubu. Was told "Thank you for your mail. Please note that motor cycles are not allowed inside the reserve". I'm assuming she's talking about Makgadikgadi in my case, as I will be doing the same route you did to Gweta from Letlhakane. Do I just do it? Obviously Chobe, Moremi and Savuti will be out of bounds.

I will also be doing Hunters Road and it says you need a permit. Where do you get the permits from. Can you expand on this.

Thanks Geoff

A suggestion as my son and I did much of your route, starting with a trip up the eastern side of Bots to Kasane.

In my experience it is easier, cheaper and safer to leave your bikes in Bots and take a day trip to Vic Falls.

Nam does not have multiple entry allowances so if you enter the Caprivi you pay, if you then go to Shakawe and the delta and then to Gobabis, you pay again.

 

[GStry]

Thanks, will keep that in mind.

 

[Xpat]

Thanks, will keep that in mind.

If you want to cross to Nam from western Botswana, use Dube border, do not go Gobabis.

 

[Brewed_Coffee]

Awesome trip Xpat, enjoyed it and the pics. Thanks

Would appreciate some advice as I'm deep into planning a trip and hit some snags. I leave from Durban on the 21st September, doing Lesotho, Botswana, Namibia (maybe Vic Falls from Zim side) and down to the Cape, then back to Durban .
I called the [email protected] to make booking at Kukonje Island and Kubu. Was told "Thank you for your mail. Please note that motor cycles are not allowed inside the reserve". I'm assuming she's talking about Makgadikgadi in my case, as I will be doing the same route you did to Gweta from Letlhakane. Do I just do it? Obviously Chobe, Moremi and Savuti will be out of bounds.

I will also be doing Hunters Road and it says you need a permit. Where do you get the permits from. Can you expand on this.

Thanks Geoff

Technically you can make a reservation for Kubu Island and if you google it, you'll find a reservations office In Mmatshumo Village. BUT, there is no need to do so, simply navigate your way there and when you arrive at the island a camp attendant will make his way to you, guide on where you may camp and collect your fees (you WILL get a receipt).
Kukonje on the other hand is wild open camping - nothing to worry about except the mus on the outer fringes .....

We've travelled there *MANY* ties on the bikes in the pro-Covid years.

 

[GStry]

Thanks for confirming that BC. I was planning on Kukonje, as i have been there before 40 years ago and found it to be a special place, but this time would probably opt for Kubu, just for something different.

 

[GStry]

If you want to cross to Nam from western Botswana, use Dube border, do not go Gobabis.

Thanks Xpat, noted.

 

[GStry]

Was just looking at T4A and it does look like the Transit road probably joins the cutline to Mababe. Also from what I can see from the legend, (road lines) the thin line west of Khwai says Offroad/Two spoor, don't think it says restricted, but of course, not sure.

 

[Xpat]

I have done the transit road, but on a 500 and I would strongly recommend to give it a miss on anything bigger (let's face it the bikes you guys will have a road bikes). It is 120 km of deepest sand in Botswana wounding in the bush with big 5 everywhere. The heatstroke is deadly and will most likely get you there. And there is no help around.

Here is clip from that ride:

 

[Xpat]

120 km of that on big bike in the Bots heat - that is asking for trouble.

Also, I have seen your planning thread and you are making classical mistake of trying to do too much in too short time, which will inevitably result in skipping the best parts. If you want to do the best things, do Botswana and make sure you do Kaokoland and Damaraland right (That on its own is about 12 days). You can check my report on those here - it is remote and tough, but much safer than the transit road in Bots as there are people living there and tourists around:

https://wilddog.net.za/threads/capie-and-vaalie-taken-for-a-ride-by-dodgy-russian.222953/


Skip Cape Town and the whole western coast and Cape - it is boring Disneyland tourism stuff for oupas anyway - and rather focus on the good stuff, which IMO is Bots and Nam. From Nam you will probably have to make dash back to Durban the shortest way. If you still have a time, then incorporate Richtersveld, Namaqualand and Riemvasmaak. I can give you tracks through Kalahari back home.

 

[Xpat]

On the transit road there is also river you have to cross - depending on season it might be completely dry or km or so long swamp with crocodilles and stuff. I have done it in December on bike and it was dry, and then again in May in 4x4 and it was swamp.

 

[Brewed_Coffee]

I have done the transit road, but on a 500 and I would strongly recommend to give it a miss on anything bigger (let's face it the bikes you guys will have a road bikes). It is 120 km of deepest sand in Botswana wounding in the bush with big 5 everywhere. The heatstroke is deadly and will most likely get you there. And there is no help around.

Here is clip from that ride:

Agree with Xpat - I know the area quite well from the days when we ran 4x4 tours up there. GStry, I'd be happy to share lots info with you if you'd like.

 

[GStry]

The whole reason for me putting pen to paper here is get advice, thanks for the reality check and I must agree, fighting deep sand is not what I want to do,...but it's tempting, even for this oupa. (6 times I might add)
Heading straight for Botswana, do the Pans and Hunters Road, that should be fun enough for this oupa, if we have time we can do Lesotho on the way home.

 

[GStry]

Agree with Xpat - I know the area quite well from the days when we ran 4x4 tours up there. GStry, I'd be happy to share lots info with you if you'd like.

BC, Thanks I would appreciate that. I have started a plan thread, don't want to clutter Xpat's RR.

Southern Africa ride in 32 days​

 

[GStry]

120 km of that on big bike in the Bots heat - that is asking for trouble.

Also, I have seen your planning thread and you are making classical mistake of trying to do too much in too short time, which will inevitably result in skipping the best parts. If you want to do the best things, do Botswana and make sure you do Kaokoland and Damaraland right (That on its own is about 12 days). You can check my report on those here - it is remote and tough, but much safer than the transit road in Bots as there are people living there and tourists around:

https://wilddog.net.za/threads/capie-and-vaalie-taken-for-a-ride-by-dodgy-russian.222953/


Skip Cape Town and the whole western coast and Cape - it is boring Disneyland tourism stuff for oupas anyway - and rather focus on the good stuff, which IMO is Bots and Nam. From Nam you will probably have to make dash back to Durban the shortest way. If you still have a time, then incorporate Richtersveld, Namaqualand and Riemvasmaak. I can give you tracks through Kalahari back home.

Thanks again, Kaokoland, Damaraland, are definitely on the list of places to visit

 

[GStry]

I have done the transit road, but on a 500 and I would strongly recommend to give it a miss on anything bigger (let's face it the bikes you guys will have a road bikes). It is 120 km of deepest sand in Botswana wounding in the bush with big 5 everywhere. The heatstroke is deadly and will most likely get you there. And there is no help around.

Here is clip from that ride:

Have watched this, very knarly.