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- Aug 5, 2010
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- Location
- Hout Bay
- Bike
- KTM 890 Adventure R Rally
Curious to read what you find on the other side of the lake.
SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
- Thread starter wildside
- Start date
wildside
Pack Dog
DAY 3: TUESDAY - 18 DECEMBER 2018
MAKUZI BEACH LODGE to LUKWE BIO CAMP (near Livingstonia)
DISTANCE: 250 km
8.30 am --> 5.45 pm
‘Does the road wind uphill all the way?
Yes, to the very end.
Will the day’s journey take the whole long day?
From morn till night my friend.’ Christina Rosetti
The sound of energetic birdsong woke me up at 5 am. It was pleasant lying back and listening to them waking up as well. I took this opportunity to walk on the beach and enjoy the sunrise. Jet, the crazy resident boxer, bounded up also full of renewed energy. So we enjoyed each other’s company while exploring the nearby rocks and shoreline. Eager fishermen were paddling around purposefully, either heading off or returning. It was a perfect scene for a sunrise.
Definately crocodiles in the lake but they do appear harmless
The other two had woken up by the time I returned and Kingsley made us some coffee and we munched muesli.
Chatting with Brett, the owner, this morning also confirmed that we should give Tanzania a miss. He felt if we were three young males and it was the dry season it would make more sense.
We were out of there by 8.30 am and looking forward to an easy days ride and an early arrival at Mushroom camp.
We hadn’t even gone 10 km and Roxy wobbled to a stop....another puncture. Poor Kingsley had another repair to take care of. We were once again entertained by the kids selling mangoes.
We stopped for fuel just outside Nkata but they would only take cash so we needed to go into Nkata village to get cash and check out the ferry timetable. We found two ATM’s which would only accept Visa card....we had Mastercard. So reluctantly we cashed in some dollars. Sometimes if lucky you will find a Standard bank as they accept Mastercard.
Continuing down the road and through the village took us to the Malawi Shipping Company at the port. A friendly chap came out to assist us and were told that the Ilala was departing next Monday evening, Christmas eve.
He tried to convince us to go on another little wooden vessel that certainly didn’t look ‘water worthy’. On inspection of this ‘ferry’ which was full of water, a few planks for seating, no shelter and limited space for the motorbikes, I decided ‘not a chance’....with the slightest rough waters the bikes would be thrown off balance. This was leaving on Thursday with a load of ‘medical drugs’. Kingsley and Rox were keen and couldn’t understand why I was not prepared to risk my life in this poor excuse for a vessel. I put the argument to bed with ‘I’m not getting on that f*^@#~g thing’!!! .....Message received !
Before leaving town we needed spare tubes as our supply was running out. Roxy managed to buy us two simcards but to find a place to register them was proving to be difficult. All these little stops gobbled up so much time. On arrival at the fuel station back up at the intersection we were now informed that they had no fuel so we needed to move on to the next fuel station...our luck was in. It was a continuous climb up into the hills that led to Mzuzu, 30km away. You could feel the chill in the air and see the rain up ahead. After a quick stop we covered our backpacks and donned our jackets. Within minutes the threatening rain arrived. It’s the feel of that first trickle of water which snakes its way down between your legs that is initially so unpleasant but once you’re completely wet it’s bareable.
Once again our pace slowed as we cautiously wound our way up the wet, slippery twists and turns. The skies cleared as we arrived in Mzuzu where we found a Standard bank and withdrew some cash and found a place to set up our simcards. Lunch consisted of bananas which we bought from a local vendor. We still had 160 km to go and an agitated Kingsley politely encouraged us to get a move on.
Stopping at the local market in Mzuzu for our supply of potatoes, tomatoes and onions
At this stage we were quite a distance inland but as you head towards the lake again there is a pass that leads to the shore with some impressive views but the road surface has deteriorated terribly and rock slides have also blocked off parts of the road. Once again we had to ride with caution. We had company at the view point and offered them our mangoes and they kept us entertained for a while.
A family portrait
wildside
Pack Dog
It was a pretty ride as we hugged to shoreline up to the turn off to Livingstonia.
It was now 4.30 pm and for some reason a vehicle had blocked the narrow little track so we maneuvered our way round between some huts and back onto the road. We had all been looking forward to this 16 km stretch of road that climbs 700m in altitude through a series of 20 hairpin bends. It started off being a sandy strip of road and turned into very rough road with lots of rocks and occasional muddy patches but it improved as we got higher up.
We all managed to keep our pace and wound our way up, up and up passing through dense woodland and occasionally we would be treated to awesome views of the lake. I was initially apprehensive about this section of road as I had read somewhere that this route was often described as ‘one of the most exciting roads in Africa’. It was picturesque and a great ride but at no point challenging or dangerous as most of the sharp hair pin bends had been concreted, making riding a lot easier despite some scary drop offs. It was difficult to stop on the uphills to take photos but we do have sections of it on gopro. There is no public transport available on this road resulting in tourists hiking up or being offered lifts by people with their own transport.
I have posted a quite a few photos heading up the hill just to give you some idea of what the road is like....as you can see it's not so bad :ricky:
It certainly is a lot easier, faster and more comfortable on a motorbike than in a vehicle bouncing around. After about 12km we turned off to the popular Mushroom Farm. From the parking area there’s a steep pathway that led us down to the restaurant and pub area where we met up with a lot of tourists lazing around the place. This Eco Lodge overlooks the Great Rift Valley offering stunning views of the lake. There was such an awesome vibe here and we were keen on spending the night but unfortunately no accommodation was available. So we quickly gulped down some coffee before continuing up to Lukwe Eco Lodge.
This camp was also in a very tranquil setting, spread out between the natural bush and linked up with neat little pathways with pretty well kept gardens in between. We all liked the idea of staying here and booked in for two nights as we now had more time on our hands to enjoy Malawi before heading back to Nkata Bay in six days time. The restaurant, pub area as well as our tented chalet had an amazing view all the way across the lush green Rift Valley down to the lake and in the evening the many little flickering lights was an indication of the many villages spread out in the distance .
A mattress had been brought in for Roxy and placed on the floor. It really was a comfy and clean spot. We placed our dinner order for 7pm and headed up the long scenic pathway to the showers. From within the showers you also had a view of the surrounding bush as the walls and doorway only came up to neck height so one could socialise nicely with the occupant next door.
After a generous portion of stir fry we relaxed back on our deck in the darkness and tried to absorb the peacefulness of our surroundings. We have a habit of carrying our alcohol in water bottles, for obvious reasons, so tonight my tooth brushing time came with a numb gum surprise. Nice for a comfy night knowing we had no drama or challenges in the morning.
It was now 4.30 pm and for some reason a vehicle had blocked the narrow little track so we maneuvered our way round between some huts and back onto the road. We had all been looking forward to this 16 km stretch of road that climbs 700m in altitude through a series of 20 hairpin bends. It started off being a sandy strip of road and turned into very rough road with lots of rocks and occasional muddy patches but it improved as we got higher up.
We all managed to keep our pace and wound our way up, up and up passing through dense woodland and occasionally we would be treated to awesome views of the lake. I was initially apprehensive about this section of road as I had read somewhere that this route was often described as ‘one of the most exciting roads in Africa’. It was picturesque and a great ride but at no point challenging or dangerous as most of the sharp hair pin bends had been concreted, making riding a lot easier despite some scary drop offs. It was difficult to stop on the uphills to take photos but we do have sections of it on gopro. There is no public transport available on this road resulting in tourists hiking up or being offered lifts by people with their own transport.
I have posted a quite a few photos heading up the hill just to give you some idea of what the road is like....as you can see it's not so bad :ricky:
It certainly is a lot easier, faster and more comfortable on a motorbike than in a vehicle bouncing around. After about 12km we turned off to the popular Mushroom Farm. From the parking area there’s a steep pathway that led us down to the restaurant and pub area where we met up with a lot of tourists lazing around the place. This Eco Lodge overlooks the Great Rift Valley offering stunning views of the lake. There was such an awesome vibe here and we were keen on spending the night but unfortunately no accommodation was available. So we quickly gulped down some coffee before continuing up to Lukwe Eco Lodge.
This camp was also in a very tranquil setting, spread out between the natural bush and linked up with neat little pathways with pretty well kept gardens in between. We all liked the idea of staying here and booked in for two nights as we now had more time on our hands to enjoy Malawi before heading back to Nkata Bay in six days time. The restaurant, pub area as well as our tented chalet had an amazing view all the way across the lush green Rift Valley down to the lake and in the evening the many little flickering lights was an indication of the many villages spread out in the distance .
A mattress had been brought in for Roxy and placed on the floor. It really was a comfy and clean spot. We placed our dinner order for 7pm and headed up the long scenic pathway to the showers. From within the showers you also had a view of the surrounding bush as the walls and doorway only came up to neck height so one could socialise nicely with the occupant next door.
After a generous portion of stir fry we relaxed back on our deck in the darkness and tried to absorb the peacefulness of our surroundings. We have a habit of carrying our alcohol in water bottles, for obvious reasons, so tonight my tooth brushing time came with a numb gum surprise. Nice for a comfy night knowing we had no drama or challenges in the morning.
wildside
Pack Dog
DAY 4. WEDNESDAY : 19 DECEMBER
REST DAY at LUKWE CAMP
+/- 15 km riding --- LIVINGSTONIA
“When it’s not always raining there’ll be days like
this,
When there’s no one complaining there’ll be days like
this,
When everything falls into place like a flick of a
switch,
Well my mama told me there’ll be days like
this.” Van Morrison
What a treat waking up to no alarm ringing in your ear and not having to rush around. Once again it poured with rain again during the night but this morning was a lovely day.
Kingsley boiled us some water for coffee only to discover to our dismay that he had poured the same ‘water’, as I had brushed my teeth with the previous night, into the pot. So that was now the end of our precious Gin supply.
A lot of thought and planning had gone into developing this establishment and making it into a functioning Eco camp. The lights are all solar powered...even the little lamps they supplied for our tent. The toilets were very nicely designed ‘long drops’. The user was required to use the wooden spoon supplied to scoop up ash and leaves, dropping it into the pit after use. So no flushing required. Strangely enough there were no flies and an absence of odour. A locally made clay pot filled with water, a cup and a basin next to it was the hand washing facility. All was very clean and tastefully done. Oh...you also had a view of the surrounding bush and trees as again the wooden/reed structure was only shoulder height. A loo with a view!
After a certain period of time the used ‘long drop’ would fill up and then be left for a while to allow it to become compost. The other ‘loo’ next to it, in the same enclosure, was now used instead. When I originally saw this I was confused and thought that they were catering for very social toilet behaviour. This compost then became the fertilizer for growing the fruit and veggies. Everything that is prepared and cooked here comes from their garden.
There’s a path that leads through the lush organic vegetable gardens and takes you through the natural bush up to a clearing to view the Manchewe Waterfalls... about a 15 minute walk away.
These are the highest waterfalls in Malawi plunging about 120 meters into the Rift Valley. A cave behind the falls was apparently used many years ago by people hiding away to escape from the slave traders.
So after breakfast Roxy and I decided on checking out the falls. At the viewpoint there is a small building with a veranda where tourists can purchase cold drinks and food stuff.
If you at any stage plan on visiting the Manchewe falls then take cash with you as unbeknown to us there was a small entrance fee as we were soon made aware of when one of the locals approached us and demanded money for the viewing. After explaining that we had not brought any with us as we were not informed back at the camp that there was a viewing charge we suggested he walk with us back to the camp if he wanted money. Fortunately he left us alone.
Later in the day we hopped on our bikes and made the short ride further up the mountain to Livingstonia. We were surprised to see a new tar road a few kilometres from our turnoff. However, there are no signposts indicating that we need to turn left and go up the steep road to Livingstonia so after riding a few more kilometres we realised we needed to turn back and eventually found our way to the top of the little hill. It’s a confusing area to ride around with not many people out and about to ask directions. This fascinating and quaint little village was founded in 1894 by Scottish missionaries. The Livingstonia Mission, named after David Livingston, a British physician and explorer in Africa, is located up here in this small forgotten town. It was originally down at Cape Maclear but the malaria problem forced them away from the lake. The Mission church was closed but I managed to peep through the window. Apparently this little church attracts a big crowd on Sundays.
The stain glass window shows David Livingston holding his sextant.
Dr. Robert Laws was the leading missionary in this village for 52 years, which ultimately led to building of the Livingstonia University in 2003. I was really impressed when I saw building and even more surprised when I discovered that it was a University.
After aimlessly riding around awhile we found the original homestead of Dr. Robert Laws, commonly known as the Stone House. This lovely old building, dating back to 1903, now boasts a small museum. Due to lack of interest from the other two we didn’t venture inside.
There is also the David Gordon Memorial Hospital
There were a few folk milling around the little shops and after enquiring we found the little market where we bought some bananas, eggs and freshly made crumpets....what a treat.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing on the deck, admiring the view, cooking and enjoying the time out. We were hoping there would be days like this!
REST DAY at LUKWE CAMP
+/- 15 km riding --- LIVINGSTONIA
“When it’s not always raining there’ll be days like
this,
When there’s no one complaining there’ll be days like
this,
When everything falls into place like a flick of a
switch,
Well my mama told me there’ll be days like
this.” Van Morrison
What a treat waking up to no alarm ringing in your ear and not having to rush around. Once again it poured with rain again during the night but this morning was a lovely day.
Kingsley boiled us some water for coffee only to discover to our dismay that he had poured the same ‘water’, as I had brushed my teeth with the previous night, into the pot. So that was now the end of our precious Gin supply.
A lot of thought and planning had gone into developing this establishment and making it into a functioning Eco camp. The lights are all solar powered...even the little lamps they supplied for our tent. The toilets were very nicely designed ‘long drops’. The user was required to use the wooden spoon supplied to scoop up ash and leaves, dropping it into the pit after use. So no flushing required. Strangely enough there were no flies and an absence of odour. A locally made clay pot filled with water, a cup and a basin next to it was the hand washing facility. All was very clean and tastefully done. Oh...you also had a view of the surrounding bush and trees as again the wooden/reed structure was only shoulder height. A loo with a view!
After a certain period of time the used ‘long drop’ would fill up and then be left for a while to allow it to become compost. The other ‘loo’ next to it, in the same enclosure, was now used instead. When I originally saw this I was confused and thought that they were catering for very social toilet behaviour. This compost then became the fertilizer for growing the fruit and veggies. Everything that is prepared and cooked here comes from their garden.
There’s a path that leads through the lush organic vegetable gardens and takes you through the natural bush up to a clearing to view the Manchewe Waterfalls... about a 15 minute walk away.
These are the highest waterfalls in Malawi plunging about 120 meters into the Rift Valley. A cave behind the falls was apparently used many years ago by people hiding away to escape from the slave traders.
So after breakfast Roxy and I decided on checking out the falls. At the viewpoint there is a small building with a veranda where tourists can purchase cold drinks and food stuff.
If you at any stage plan on visiting the Manchewe falls then take cash with you as unbeknown to us there was a small entrance fee as we were soon made aware of when one of the locals approached us and demanded money for the viewing. After explaining that we had not brought any with us as we were not informed back at the camp that there was a viewing charge we suggested he walk with us back to the camp if he wanted money. Fortunately he left us alone.
Later in the day we hopped on our bikes and made the short ride further up the mountain to Livingstonia. We were surprised to see a new tar road a few kilometres from our turnoff. However, there are no signposts indicating that we need to turn left and go up the steep road to Livingstonia so after riding a few more kilometres we realised we needed to turn back and eventually found our way to the top of the little hill. It’s a confusing area to ride around with not many people out and about to ask directions. This fascinating and quaint little village was founded in 1894 by Scottish missionaries. The Livingstonia Mission, named after David Livingston, a British physician and explorer in Africa, is located up here in this small forgotten town. It was originally down at Cape Maclear but the malaria problem forced them away from the lake. The Mission church was closed but I managed to peep through the window. Apparently this little church attracts a big crowd on Sundays.
The stain glass window shows David Livingston holding his sextant.
Dr. Robert Laws was the leading missionary in this village for 52 years, which ultimately led to building of the Livingstonia University in 2003. I was really impressed when I saw building and even more surprised when I discovered that it was a University.
After aimlessly riding around awhile we found the original homestead of Dr. Robert Laws, commonly known as the Stone House. This lovely old building, dating back to 1903, now boasts a small museum. Due to lack of interest from the other two we didn’t venture inside.
There is also the David Gordon Memorial Hospital
There were a few folk milling around the little shops and after enquiring we found the little market where we bought some bananas, eggs and freshly made crumpets....what a treat.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing on the deck, admiring the view, cooking and enjoying the time out. We were hoping there would be days like this!
Awesome ride report :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Thank you for sharing
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for keeping us updated, looks like a very awesome trip :thumleft:
wildside
Pack Dog
TANZANIA
DAY 5: THURSDAY - 20 DECEMBER 2018
LUKWE ECO CAMP to MATEMA (TANZANIA)
DISTANCE: 250 km
8.15am --> 3.30 pm
“ I want to feel sunlight on my face
I see that dust cloud dissipate without a trace
I wanna take shelter from the pouring rain
Where streets have no name.” U2
Roxy was most unimpressed with waking up at 5.45 am. But with all our fussing around one only gets going about 2 hrs later. I know from experience that it’s necessary to start our day early as we never know what curved balls are going to be tossed our way and we need time to deal with any hassles. Kingsley was really taking his job of looking after us very seriously and spoilt us with decent coffee and scrambled eggs for brekkie before departing down the fun and windy road back to Chitimba on the main road heading north to Tanzania.
We really enjoyed this stretch of road and spent a bit of time at the turn off buying curios.
Travelling north towards Karonga where we refueled was enjoyable. The road from here to the border post was in good condition and obviously constructed by the Chinese who had improved the infrastructure in many African countries.
Fun time at fuel stations ;D
Departing Malawi was hassle free despite parting with our TIP’s. These we had hoped to keep for our multiple entry, but no luck, we were now going to have to part with lots more money on re-entry...damn.
At the Tanzanian border post we had been chosen by one of the locals to be escorted into the building. No matter how determined we were to avoid him so he was more determined to assist us. They just have a knack of forcing their help on you regardless. The officials are also to blame as they don’t communicate with you and leave you wandering what your next move is. I was now required to have photocopies of our documents done for them to keep...so of course you are going to accept help from this guy when he indicates for you to follow. Before I could object too much he was getting my photocopying done, fetching the printed copies, stapling them together and handing them back to the officials....okay, so now we were committed to this guy.
While I was busy inside Kingsley and Roxy waited outside with the bikes under the shelter as the heavens had opened. On completion of our paperwork this chap now insisted that we need insurance and only because we couldn’t arrange for insurance for Tanzania back home we were kind of persuaded to consider this. In the pouring rain Roxy and I accompanied him to his ‘office’, out past the exit boom, down some narrow little lane, through some dodgy little shops and bar and into a dingy little Insurance office. The warning flags had been raised! He then informed us it would cost $34 per bike ...without even asking for the values of each. Now I smelt a rat. If this Insurance was legit he would have had an office at the border post. We immediately turned around and walked out. I returned to the guy from customs and explained the situation. He told me this guy was taking a chance and that there was no government insurance offices here so we should just continue on our journey as no one will request our insurance documents. On returning to the bikes the same chap was there. We gave him some cash for helping us out and he apologised for having wasted our time. Once again we were on our way into the pouring rain and new territory.
'I guess it rains down in Africa..." Our entrance into Tanzania :toothy2:
Despite the continuous rain it was a lovely ride to the most northern point of the now Lake Nyasa. We experienced various road surfaces as there was a lot of road construction happening. Despite all the mud, puddles and dirt we all just soaked up the beautiful scenery... along with the rain.
Some of the images are taken from the Gopro...hence the raindrops...but merely an idea of what we experienced.
At one stage we headed east into the direction of the Livingston Mountains appearing in the distance. The closer we got to them the more impressive and massive they appeared. I reminded myself that heading into those mountains was what this trip was originally about for us.
The finally stretch of tar road was lined with bright green banana plantations and brightly decorated little shops. We all just had a good feel about this place and now riding south towards the lake with the mountains ever present over my left shoulder felt marvelous.
Sadly the Blue Canoe Lodge was closed for this period so we found our way along the wet, sandy track to Matema Lakeside Resort which immediately appealed to us. We were fortunate to get a room right on the beach front. This long, sandy, tropical beach was so pretty and ended in the east at the base of the Livingston Mountains which rise up to a height of 2500m. We settled in here very quickly and before long we were showered, dry and clean and in search of some food at the welcoming restaurant as we hadn’t eaten since breakfast.
We met up with some very interesting tourists from Germany. Max, one of whom we had briefly seen at the Mushroom Camp, had studied in Cape Town and was finishing off his time in Africa with some travelling. Talking to this youngster who was travelling on his own, through Africa, using only public transport, made us realise we were looking for excuses to opt out of our initial plan. We’ve had no problems up to now and decided to forge ahead into the Tanzanian Southern Highlands and should we feel out of our depth we would simply turn around and go for plan B or C.
This now meant that we would not be able to stay for an extra night but would have to continue on our way in the morning. We all felt good about this decision and enjoyed a good night’s rest looking forward to heading up into the mountains.
DAY 5: THURSDAY - 20 DECEMBER 2018
LUKWE ECO CAMP to MATEMA (TANZANIA)
DISTANCE: 250 km
8.15am --> 3.30 pm
“ I want to feel sunlight on my face
I see that dust cloud dissipate without a trace
I wanna take shelter from the pouring rain
Where streets have no name.” U2
Roxy was most unimpressed with waking up at 5.45 am. But with all our fussing around one only gets going about 2 hrs later. I know from experience that it’s necessary to start our day early as we never know what curved balls are going to be tossed our way and we need time to deal with any hassles. Kingsley was really taking his job of looking after us very seriously and spoilt us with decent coffee and scrambled eggs for brekkie before departing down the fun and windy road back to Chitimba on the main road heading north to Tanzania.
We really enjoyed this stretch of road and spent a bit of time at the turn off buying curios.
Travelling north towards Karonga where we refueled was enjoyable. The road from here to the border post was in good condition and obviously constructed by the Chinese who had improved the infrastructure in many African countries.
Fun time at fuel stations ;D
Departing Malawi was hassle free despite parting with our TIP’s. These we had hoped to keep for our multiple entry, but no luck, we were now going to have to part with lots more money on re-entry...damn.
At the Tanzanian border post we had been chosen by one of the locals to be escorted into the building. No matter how determined we were to avoid him so he was more determined to assist us. They just have a knack of forcing their help on you regardless. The officials are also to blame as they don’t communicate with you and leave you wandering what your next move is. I was now required to have photocopies of our documents done for them to keep...so of course you are going to accept help from this guy when he indicates for you to follow. Before I could object too much he was getting my photocopying done, fetching the printed copies, stapling them together and handing them back to the officials....okay, so now we were committed to this guy.
While I was busy inside Kingsley and Roxy waited outside with the bikes under the shelter as the heavens had opened. On completion of our paperwork this chap now insisted that we need insurance and only because we couldn’t arrange for insurance for Tanzania back home we were kind of persuaded to consider this. In the pouring rain Roxy and I accompanied him to his ‘office’, out past the exit boom, down some narrow little lane, through some dodgy little shops and bar and into a dingy little Insurance office. The warning flags had been raised! He then informed us it would cost $34 per bike ...without even asking for the values of each. Now I smelt a rat. If this Insurance was legit he would have had an office at the border post. We immediately turned around and walked out. I returned to the guy from customs and explained the situation. He told me this guy was taking a chance and that there was no government insurance offices here so we should just continue on our journey as no one will request our insurance documents. On returning to the bikes the same chap was there. We gave him some cash for helping us out and he apologised for having wasted our time. Once again we were on our way into the pouring rain and new territory.
'I guess it rains down in Africa..." Our entrance into Tanzania :toothy2:
Despite the continuous rain it was a lovely ride to the most northern point of the now Lake Nyasa. We experienced various road surfaces as there was a lot of road construction happening. Despite all the mud, puddles and dirt we all just soaked up the beautiful scenery... along with the rain.
Some of the images are taken from the Gopro...hence the raindrops...but merely an idea of what we experienced.
At one stage we headed east into the direction of the Livingston Mountains appearing in the distance. The closer we got to them the more impressive and massive they appeared. I reminded myself that heading into those mountains was what this trip was originally about for us.
The finally stretch of tar road was lined with bright green banana plantations and brightly decorated little shops. We all just had a good feel about this place and now riding south towards the lake with the mountains ever present over my left shoulder felt marvelous.
Sadly the Blue Canoe Lodge was closed for this period so we found our way along the wet, sandy track to Matema Lakeside Resort which immediately appealed to us. We were fortunate to get a room right on the beach front. This long, sandy, tropical beach was so pretty and ended in the east at the base of the Livingston Mountains which rise up to a height of 2500m. We settled in here very quickly and before long we were showered, dry and clean and in search of some food at the welcoming restaurant as we hadn’t eaten since breakfast.
We met up with some very interesting tourists from Germany. Max, one of whom we had briefly seen at the Mushroom Camp, had studied in Cape Town and was finishing off his time in Africa with some travelling. Talking to this youngster who was travelling on his own, through Africa, using only public transport, made us realise we were looking for excuses to opt out of our initial plan. We’ve had no problems up to now and decided to forge ahead into the Tanzanian Southern Highlands and should we feel out of our depth we would simply turn around and go for plan B or C.
This now meant that we would not be able to stay for an extra night but would have to continue on our way in the morning. We all felt good about this decision and enjoyed a good night’s rest looking forward to heading up into the mountains.
- Joined
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Great news that you decided to press on, loving every installment, thanks
- Joined
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This is so helpful as usual from you 3. Plenty good research for me, thanks!
8)
8)
NoRush
Pack Dog
Thank you for sharing this trip with us. :thumleft: Huge motivation for my wife, who started riding as well.
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