On my list to do. Would like to see Malavi again. Thanks for the RR.
The Warm Heart of Africa - by PopFunPlot & a Lady (Complete at LAST ... !!!)
- Thread starter Plothond
- Start date
shanti
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Beautifully written and incredible photos , I enjoyed your RR alot and thank you very inspiring
Baches
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Great RR. Chris laat weet wanneer jy Malawi toe wil ry !!
cloudgazer
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Dunno how i missed this RR.
Thanks to whoever resurrected this thread.
Fantastic stuff.
Thanks to whoever resurrected this thread.
Fantastic stuff.
wildside
Pack Dog
We had planned a similar trip last year but put it on hold to do our Namibian trip in Dec09. After reading this great RR and seeing these wonderful pictures it has stirred something up and renewed our enthusiasm to pull out our old plans and do something with them. Well done to you all!! :thumleft:
Plottie
Small correction on your RR...
We actually bumped into you guys at the Malelane Wimpy That breakfast was not in Komatipoort...unless you had a second???? :imaposer: :imaposer:
At that time we had just bought our 990S...and it was still en route from Alfie Cox..we where there in a cage...en route from Nelspruit to Hectorspruit
My wife chatted to yours...and introduced us to the FORUM...and a great lifestyle...
We have since acquired a DR 650 for my wife ("Stofboxi")
Great trip...and RR :biggrin: Need to do it!!!
Small correction on your RR...
We actually bumped into you guys at the Malelane Wimpy That breakfast was not in Komatipoort...unless you had a second???? :imaposer: :imaposer:
At that time we had just bought our 990S...and it was still en route from Alfie Cox..we where there in a cage...en route from Nelspruit to Hectorspruit
My wife chatted to yours...and introduced us to the FORUM...and a great lifestyle...
We have since acquired a DR 650 for my wife ("Stofboxi")
Great trip...and RR :biggrin: Need to do it!!!
Plothond
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chopperpilot said:
aah, you right. I recall the conversation :thumleft:
Tonteldoos
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Plothond said:
Caught out! Liar
ot:JourneyMan
Bachelor Dog
Maybe the trip was virtual reality as well. : :biggrin:
:biggrin:Cane Rat
Race Dog
Great report and awesome pics.
I was last in Moz when I was about 6 years old, so don't remember much. Looking at your pics, its pretty much the same you see in Angola. Proof that there once was good infrastructure, nice buildings and civilisation, but after a sensless war, everything had gone south and the locals are not realy bothered with improving the situation.Whilst there is a lot of developemnt going on here, almost none of the locals are involved.
Seems that the blue and white taxis are everywhere. They make our taxis look like angels.
:thumleft:
I was last in Moz when I was about 6 years old, so don't remember much. Looking at your pics, its pretty much the same you see in Angola. Proof that there once was good infrastructure, nice buildings and civilisation, but after a sensless war, everything had gone south and the locals are not realy bothered with improving the situation.Whilst there is a lot of developemnt going on here, almost none of the locals are involved.
Seems that the blue and white taxis are everywhere. They make our taxis look like angels.
:thumleft:
Plothond
Race Dog
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Having just returned from the most wonderfull holiday to Malawi, I thought it may be of interest to update a few things.
This time the whole family was together and having 6 of us in one vehicle for 5600km was totally different to the freedom of the bike.
This is an Adventure Bike forum, but I know a lot of us have 4x4's and enjoy the family camping scene as well
Firstly the vehicle:
We travelled in a 2007 3.2 DID long wheelbase Mitsubishi Pajero and towed a Conquerer Courage trailer which included a trailer mounted tent and a folded rubber duck on top
The roof of the vehicle had an OZ tent, 2 ammo crates and the boat motor
Fuel consumption averaged at about 17.5 litre / 100km which is high but considering the load - I'm happy
I am very impressed with the Pajero. It is a perfect 4x4 touring vehicle and it ticks all the boxes - excellent 4x4, enough torque to pull the chrome off the tow-bar, comfort, good speed, excellent aircon, very powerful alternator (for the dual battery system) and spacious.
But enough of that: (most of the below is Car related)
BOTSWANA:
Entry at Martins Drift - Long queue on SA side, SAPS just plain full of shit and rude - but then I expected nothing less. Botswana Immigration and Customs - always a pleasure. Friendly, happy and helpfull. They even handed out travel books and advisories and a DVD
ZIM:
Entry via Plumtree from Botswana. Zim side - Rude unfriendly assholes who went out of their way to solicit bribes for better service. Well, I was on holiday and not in a real hurry (well I was - but Fcuk them - I was not going to part with one cent extra). We were made to rejoin the queue 2 times as each time they found fault with something. I stripped my moer and told him so - So for good measure we did a third trip
Get your 3rd party insurance from the AA in SA - It saves 1 queue and lowers the moer meter a bit. All you have to pay is the Road access fee and the Carbon tax
To sum up: Passport control, Third Party, Road access fee, Carbon Tax and TIP (They just love that word) "Temporary Import Permit"
I was definately not going to write ALL the import items at each border so at each country when they asked for a list - I gave them the RSA customs form (Registration of goods for reimportation) I made good effort with this form whislt still on the RSA side and listed all the potential hassle items - eg: camera's, laptops, my Jura COFFEE MACHINE (yes it went with !!! :ricky: ) the boat and motor etc..
Zim boytjies were happy with that and stamped the RSA form. They did this in Malawi and Zambia as well - so it seems to be accepted
They have a new bee in their bonnet now - They want to see TWO warning triangles, Two reflective vests (if more than 1 person in the vehicle) and a fire extinguisher.
They (Police and traffic Police) are not unfriendly - just alway on the lookout for an opportunity.
A trick I read on another forum - AND IT WORKS. When they stop you (we were stopped 7 times in Zim - excluding toll stops) - Look genuinely happy and SMILE and TAKE OFF YOUR SUNGLASSES. It works and immediately they become more friendly.
Get a pouch for your drivers license and attach to your car keys - you will need it OFTEN
Also get a list from the AA - white reflective stickers for front of vehicle and red for rear. ZA sticker on Car & trailer. White and black "T" on front of trailer and red and Black "T" on rear of trailer.
Guinea Fowls rest, 73km south of Harare (near Beatrice) is a lovely place to stay - google them. They will sell you lovely Steaks, T Bones, Wors, farm butter and Milk - but you have to pre order in advance.
Stick to the speed limit - they know exactly how to use the camera's
What is the speed limit ? - I had to regularly ask as signage is sadly lacking in places
Then, also a new thing - before and after every major town and city are "toll gates" 1 US$ OR R 10.00 OR Pula 10.00. Take 2 x 1US$ notes for each town. DO NOT give them 10 US$ - You will get 9 x the most disgustingly grubby sorry looking 1US$ notes back
Exit Zim into Moz at Nyamapanda - dirty and run down. Ignore the touts, be patient and you will be through in no time
We were definately expecting bribe solicitation and Zim and Moz did not dissapoint. So a PLAN was put into place > - a MASTERPLAN. ;D :biggrin:
It was Christmas time so the solicitation was expected to be higher that ever
we went to Makro and bought a few boxes of bulk sweets and chocolates and 2 rolls of gift wrap. Then we told the kids we were making gift packs for the poor Fcukers in Africa. 2 sweets and a chocolate bar went into each pack - maybe 5 bucks incl to gift wrap (okay make it 6 - kids LOVE sello tape)
This is the average scenario, or a Sofia in Golden Girls always said: "Picture this, Zimbabwe ....."
The hand goes up. We stop. I smile. I looking genuinely happy that this asshole is buggering up my average speed. I take off my dark glasses, I squint. I smile again. I saw HELLO !!! He says "Goodday Seh !!, How is your day" I say " It's WONDERFULL..." He looks happy, I look happy, We are all happy. Then we go through the motions : Driver license, TIP. He walks around both vehicle and trailer. All stickers are there... I sense disappointment. What is in there he asks. Where ? I ask - There he says - pointing to the trailer. Camping equipment I say. I want to see he says. OK !! (sometimes I open, sometimes he believes me) Then an epiphany !!! - WHERE are your warning triangles. My wife accepts her que - dutifully (she is very dutifull in Africa) she accepts her task and presents A triangle. I see a glint in his eye. She see's it too. She produces the 2nd triangle. He accepts defeat, so he cuts to the chase....
"what can we do about Christmas" By now the kids are literally straining at their seatbelts. There is a vibration in the back. Anymore tension and the belts will snap !!! By now they have checked out the "enemy" the boys have counted, The girls as self appointed auditors have varified the numbers. The stores are opened and the correct number of "bribe" packs are produced.
I'm still smiling. I'm still smiling as I drive off. Now I'm really happy.
Not quite sure is this what they expected, but WTF. My kids have learnt the value of giving freely this festive season :ricky:
MOZ
Get your third Party in SA at the AA
Make sure the Blue and yellow triangles are on the car and trailer - on the CORRECT side
Malawi
Ignore the insurance touts at Mwanza - They are so persistant, the gentleman and lady were so neatly dressed that I almost believed them.
The third party is outside the gate so one has to walk a bit. The touts wanted 30 000 Kwatcha (about R 1500.00)
I paid 10 000 Kwatcha at Prime Insurance
Change money at the bank - much easier
Roadblocks - they are all there - exactly the same spots as 18 months ago
Ignore the Shire River Lodge for beers or food - it looks as if they are adding on and the entire place is in a mess.
In my opinion it will be at least a year or so before one can consider going back there to either eat or stay - Pity - it was a good afternoon there
Stay over on the Zomba plateau. The view is breathtaking. The forest campsite is run down, no water or facilities. Ask for directions to the Trout farm. It is possibly the most beautiful mountain campsite I have ever stayed at. Well worth it
Fat Monkeys is slowly being upgraded. The bar is well stocked, cooldrinks, sweets for the kids. They have built in permanent seating - very nice. The rooms are being upgraded - very nice
Beware of the beach boy called Eric - he is a real shark. Rather ask for Enoch for anything from boat trips to fish for supper. If you want to hire a boat - ask for Jambo and Simon who run the "Sha Nana" They have a good connection with Metaljockey and are good guys
By all means - take a trip to the islands (5 US$ Park fee) but also go to Otter point - the snorkling is brilliant there as well
Both Lilongwe and Blantyre have the big chain stores we know in RSA, - Game, Shoprite, Barcellos, Steers, etc..
Zambia
Apart from Passports control - you need third party and carbon tax payments to be done
Our 4x4 - carbon tax was 200 000 Zam Kwatcha (R 1.00 = 640 Kwatcha) and third party was 216 000K
Then - you must ASK to pay for Road Toll Fee. It costs 20 US$. I did not know about it and got fined 270 000 K in Livingstone (about 57 US$)
There is a small, but acceptable campsite called "Bridge Camp" at the Luangwa Bridge - turnoff approx 1,5km from the bridge on the Lusaka side
Camping is no longer available at Maramba - they are using the area to build more chalets
We checked out the Vic Falls Rest camp on the Zim side - nice campsite
Zim to Bots
Instead of taking the Ferry into Botswana from Zambia - Consider the following option
At Livingstone - cross into Zim at Vic Falls
Head for the Pandamatenga border post - If they see 3 vehicles a day - it's a lot
The last 65km to the border is a dirt track, a bit rocky in places - although fine for a dual bike, it may be a bit of a challenge if there has been a lot of rain as it can be quite muddy in places. This will be my entry point in future
Entering Botswana is a bit of a joke as well - passorts stamped and we are waved on. Huh ? What about third party, road fees etc.. No the dude says - there are no payments here. So what if I get stopped I asked - just tell them you came in a Pandamatenga he says
Then, just when we thought we were through - Vet control stops us. We had a choice - get 10kg of meat confiscated or make a plan. There was no way I was going to donate 10kg - so I got out my camp chair, a case of beer, made a fire and had the biggest braai for years. - right there in no mans land. The family chowed about 1kg and we packed the rest into the fridge. Both parties thanked each other for their mutual co-operation and we went on our way.
Firmly set on small border posts - there was no way I was doing Martins drift again
We tried Zanzibar - tar road all the way. Itwas closed as the Limpopo was in flood. We went north 50km on a very bad dirt road to Platjan.
This must be the best, cleanest, neatest post Ihave ever been to - Definately one to use. the crossing on both sides must have taken a max of 20 minutes
That's all :biggrin:
This time the whole family was together and having 6 of us in one vehicle for 5600km was totally different to the freedom of the bike.
This is an Adventure Bike forum, but I know a lot of us have 4x4's and enjoy the family camping scene as well
Firstly the vehicle:
We travelled in a 2007 3.2 DID long wheelbase Mitsubishi Pajero and towed a Conquerer Courage trailer which included a trailer mounted tent and a folded rubber duck on top
The roof of the vehicle had an OZ tent, 2 ammo crates and the boat motor
Fuel consumption averaged at about 17.5 litre / 100km which is high but considering the load - I'm happy
I am very impressed with the Pajero. It is a perfect 4x4 touring vehicle and it ticks all the boxes - excellent 4x4, enough torque to pull the chrome off the tow-bar, comfort, good speed, excellent aircon, very powerful alternator (for the dual battery system) and spacious.
But enough of that: (most of the below is Car related)
BOTSWANA:
Entry at Martins Drift - Long queue on SA side, SAPS just plain full of shit and rude - but then I expected nothing less. Botswana Immigration and Customs - always a pleasure. Friendly, happy and helpfull. They even handed out travel books and advisories and a DVD
ZIM:
Entry via Plumtree from Botswana. Zim side - Rude unfriendly assholes who went out of their way to solicit bribes for better service. Well, I was on holiday and not in a real hurry (well I was - but Fcuk them - I was not going to part with one cent extra). We were made to rejoin the queue 2 times as each time they found fault with something. I stripped my moer and told him so - So for good measure we did a third trip
Get your 3rd party insurance from the AA in SA - It saves 1 queue and lowers the moer meter a bit. All you have to pay is the Road access fee and the Carbon tax
To sum up: Passport control, Third Party, Road access fee, Carbon Tax and TIP (They just love that word) "Temporary Import Permit"
I was definately not going to write ALL the import items at each border so at each country when they asked for a list - I gave them the RSA customs form (Registration of goods for reimportation) I made good effort with this form whislt still on the RSA side and listed all the potential hassle items - eg: camera's, laptops, my Jura COFFEE MACHINE (yes it went with !!! :ricky: ) the boat and motor etc..
Zim boytjies were happy with that and stamped the RSA form. They did this in Malawi and Zambia as well - so it seems to be accepted
They have a new bee in their bonnet now - They want to see TWO warning triangles, Two reflective vests (if more than 1 person in the vehicle) and a fire extinguisher.
They (Police and traffic Police) are not unfriendly - just alway on the lookout for an opportunity.
A trick I read on another forum - AND IT WORKS. When they stop you (we were stopped 7 times in Zim - excluding toll stops) - Look genuinely happy and SMILE and TAKE OFF YOUR SUNGLASSES. It works and immediately they become more friendly.
Get a pouch for your drivers license and attach to your car keys - you will need it OFTEN
Also get a list from the AA - white reflective stickers for front of vehicle and red for rear. ZA sticker on Car & trailer. White and black "T" on front of trailer and red and Black "T" on rear of trailer.
Guinea Fowls rest, 73km south of Harare (near Beatrice) is a lovely place to stay - google them. They will sell you lovely Steaks, T Bones, Wors, farm butter and Milk - but you have to pre order in advance.
Stick to the speed limit - they know exactly how to use the camera's
What is the speed limit ? - I had to regularly ask as signage is sadly lacking in places
Then, also a new thing - before and after every major town and city are "toll gates" 1 US$ OR R 10.00 OR Pula 10.00. Take 2 x 1US$ notes for each town. DO NOT give them 10 US$ - You will get 9 x the most disgustingly grubby sorry looking 1US$ notes back
Exit Zim into Moz at Nyamapanda - dirty and run down. Ignore the touts, be patient and you will be through in no time
We were definately expecting bribe solicitation and Zim and Moz did not dissapoint. So a PLAN was put into place >
- a MASTERPLAN. ;D :biggrin:It was Christmas time so the solicitation was expected to be higher that ever
we went to Makro and bought a few boxes of bulk sweets and chocolates and 2 rolls of gift wrap. Then we told the kids we were making gift packs for the poor Fcukers in Africa. 2 sweets and a chocolate bar went into each pack - maybe 5 bucks incl to gift wrap (okay make it 6 - kids LOVE sello tape)
This is the average scenario, or a Sofia in Golden Girls always said: "Picture this, Zimbabwe ....."
The hand goes up. We stop. I smile. I looking genuinely happy that this asshole is buggering up my average speed. I take off my dark glasses, I squint. I smile again. I saw HELLO !!! He says "Goodday Seh !!, How is your day" I say " It's WONDERFULL..." He looks happy, I look happy, We are all happy. Then we go through the motions : Driver license, TIP. He walks around both vehicle and trailer. All stickers are there... I sense disappointment. What is in there he asks. Where ? I ask - There he says - pointing to the trailer. Camping equipment I say. I want to see he says. OK !! (sometimes I open, sometimes he believes me) Then an epiphany !!! - WHERE are your warning triangles. My wife accepts her que - dutifully (she is very dutifull in Africa) she accepts her task and presents A triangle. I see a glint in his eye. She see's it too. She produces the 2nd triangle. He accepts defeat, so he cuts to the chase....
"what can we do about Christmas" By now the kids are literally straining at their seatbelts. There is a vibration in the back. Anymore tension and the belts will snap !!! By now they have checked out the "enemy" the boys have counted, The girls as self appointed auditors have varified the numbers. The stores are opened and the correct number of "bribe" packs are produced.
I'm still smiling. I'm still smiling as I drive off. Now I'm really happy.
Not quite sure is this what they expected, but WTF. My kids have learnt the value of giving freely this festive season :ricky:
MOZ
Get your third Party in SA at the AA
Make sure the Blue and yellow triangles are on the car and trailer - on the CORRECT side
Malawi
Ignore the insurance touts at Mwanza - They are so persistant, the gentleman and lady were so neatly dressed that I almost believed them.
The third party is outside the gate so one has to walk a bit. The touts wanted 30 000 Kwatcha (about R 1500.00)
I paid 10 000 Kwatcha at Prime Insurance
Change money at the bank - much easier
Roadblocks - they are all there - exactly the same spots as 18 months ago
Ignore the Shire River Lodge for beers or food - it looks as if they are adding on and the entire place is in a mess.
In my opinion it will be at least a year or so before one can consider going back there to either eat or stay - Pity - it was a good afternoon there
Stay over on the Zomba plateau. The view is breathtaking. The forest campsite is run down, no water or facilities. Ask for directions to the Trout farm. It is possibly the most beautiful mountain campsite I have ever stayed at. Well worth it
Fat Monkeys is slowly being upgraded. The bar is well stocked, cooldrinks, sweets for the kids. They have built in permanent seating - very nice. The rooms are being upgraded - very nice
Beware of the beach boy called Eric - he is a real shark. Rather ask for Enoch for anything from boat trips to fish for supper. If you want to hire a boat - ask for Jambo and Simon who run the "Sha Nana" They have a good connection with Metaljockey and are good guys
By all means - take a trip to the islands (5 US$ Park fee) but also go to Otter point - the snorkling is brilliant there as well
Both Lilongwe and Blantyre have the big chain stores we know in RSA, - Game, Shoprite, Barcellos, Steers, etc..
Zambia
Apart from Passports control - you need third party and carbon tax payments to be done
Our 4x4 - carbon tax was 200 000 Zam Kwatcha (R 1.00 = 640 Kwatcha) and third party was 216 000K
Then - you must ASK to pay for Road Toll Fee. It costs 20 US$. I did not know about it and got fined 270 000 K in Livingstone (about 57 US$)
There is a small, but acceptable campsite called "Bridge Camp" at the Luangwa Bridge - turnoff approx 1,5km from the bridge on the Lusaka side
Camping is no longer available at Maramba - they are using the area to build more chalets
We checked out the Vic Falls Rest camp on the Zim side - nice campsite
Zim to Bots
Instead of taking the Ferry into Botswana from Zambia - Consider the following option
At Livingstone - cross into Zim at Vic Falls
Head for the Pandamatenga border post - If they see 3 vehicles a day - it's a lot
The last 65km to the border is a dirt track, a bit rocky in places - although fine for a dual bike, it may be a bit of a challenge if there has been a lot of rain as it can be quite muddy in places. This will be my entry point in future
Entering Botswana is a bit of a joke as well - passorts stamped and we are waved on. Huh ? What about third party, road fees etc.. No the dude says - there are no payments here. So what if I get stopped I asked - just tell them you came in a Pandamatenga he says
Then, just when we thought we were through - Vet control stops us. We had a choice - get 10kg of meat confiscated or make a plan. There was no way I was going to donate 10kg - so I got out my camp chair, a case of beer, made a fire and had the biggest braai for years. - right there in no mans land. The family chowed about 1kg and we packed the rest into the fridge. Both parties thanked each other for their mutual co-operation and we went on our way.
Firmly set on small border posts - there was no way I was doing Martins drift again
We tried Zanzibar - tar road all the way. Itwas closed as the Limpopo was in flood. We went north 50km on a very bad dirt road to Platjan.
This must be the best, cleanest, neatest post Ihave ever been to - Definately one to use. the crossing on both sides must have taken a max of 20 minutes
That's all :biggrin:
Welcome back L, glad to hear you back safely...
Maybe you should start another thread and don't mess this one up with your 4x4 trip :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
Maybe you should start another thread and don't mess this one up with your 4x4 trip :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
Plothond
Race Dog
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- Sep 11, 2006
- Messages
- 4,929
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- 10
- Location
- Pretoria East - Home of Jameson
- Bike
- KTM 1090 Adventure R
Will do - will finish it here and then create a link
edit, changed my mind - more of an update than a trip report >
edit, changed my mind - more of an update than a trip report >
Tonteldoos
Race Dog
- Joined
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- Location
- Doornpoort, Pta
- Bike
- Honda XL1000V Varadero
So you were the arse-hole in the DID with the trailer... :biggrin:
Plottie can concur your statements also did Bots / Zambia and Mana Pools (zim) over Dec similar stories regarding bribes, the pains of border crossing and the requested "out of court" settlements.. : o and the 10zar = 1 dollar exchange rates..
One thing I learned quickly was to find a auto teller and withdrew money there..
Was still a bevange holiday!
Plottie can concur your statements also did Bots / Zambia and Mana Pools (zim) over Dec similar stories regarding bribes, the pains of border crossing and the requested "out of court" settlements.. :
o and the 10zar = 1 dollar exchange rates..One thing I learned quickly was to find a auto teller and withdrew money there..
Was still a bevange holiday!
ThomTom
Race Dog
Plothond, thanks for the updates;
bribes or no bribes, that’s a question - in a 4x4, a packet of smokes on the dash works like a bomb, it the cops always wave us through after departing with a single cigarette on request.
the meat issue, it is always a problem on the way south; the foot and mounth border controls - unpacked all meat and just leave cooked food and drinks in fridge
Malawi - i need to go back; backpacked there in 1986 and drove up and down in 2000, i can recommend a visit to the Lake to anyone
bribes or no bribes, that’s a question - in a 4x4, a packet of smokes on the dash works like a bomb, it the cops always wave us through after departing with a single cigarette on request.
the meat issue, it is always a problem on the way south; the foot and mounth border controls - unpacked all meat and just leave cooked food and drinks in fridge
Malawi - i need to go back; backpacked there in 1986 and drove up and down in 2000, i can recommend a visit to the Lake to anyone
