The Warm Heart of Africa - by PopFunPlot & a Lady (Complete at LAST ... !!!)

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Day 8 – 8th May 2009 : Chipata to Lusaka
Route: Chipata, Katete, Petauke, Nyimba, Chongwe, Lusaka
Distance: 568km
Fuel: Freely available although sometimes not at Nyimba (expensive)
Border costs: n/a
Accomodation costs: Pioneer camp – US$ 6.00 p/person. Good facilities, Bar & menu


The campsite at Mama Rula's

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It would be incorrect to list this day as anything other than moderately interesting. The first 240km from Chipata to Nyimba was just a road in a foreign African country.

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After Nyimba the next 120km made up for it and by the time we got to the Luangwa river bridge our hearts were pumping. I will come back one day, without panniers and really give it a go. Nothing like burning the last bit of carbon OUT OF EVERYTHING…. Heh heh heh…..

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The bridges on our trip fascinated me and the Luangwa River bridge was one of them.

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A bit of research revealed the following:

“The Luangwa Bridge is the only large bridge and the principal engineering challenge on Zambia's Great East Road, crossing the lower Luangwa River where it flows from the Luangwa Rift Valley into the Zambezi valley.
The river is 250-400 m wide in this area, and though in the dry season it may be confined to a shallow channel meandering across sandbanks, at the end of the rainy season any bridge has to be able to withstand a full-width, deep and fast-moving flood. The Great East Road runs for most of its length on watersheds at an elevation of around 1000 m, but the river is at an elevation of 390 m at the bottom of the valley. The bridge approaches have to contend with steep rugged slopes and deep ravines covered in forest or thick bush; the area is remote and about 250 km from the nearest city, Lusaka.
The First Luangwa Bridge was built in Zambia's colonial era in 1932 as a narrow 300 m long wide steel and reinforced concrete deck on concrete piers and columns. Its proximity to Mozambique and Zimbabwe, as well as its status as the only access point within the country for Zambia's Eastern Province, makes it strategically vulnerable in any conflict. After Zambia's independence in 1964, President Kenneth Kaunda's support for freedom fighters in neighbouring countries led to the bridge being destroyed in revenge.”

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There was a horrible section where there were roadworks in progress and this is unfortunately where we needed to refuel.
Riding in the dust was one thing, but having an 18 wheeler hurtling past and showering one in tones of dust is another.
In for a penny ......

The Dromedary bags work really well

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Making sure this was DEFINATELY the road to Lusaka  :D

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A Happy camper  :3some:

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We may not have been all that good in timing our arrivals each day, but our choice in accommodation on most days was superb. Pioneer camp was another good choice – the bar was well stocked and the steaks large and juicy.
Another evening shower ensured that our tents were to stay wet at least another day
 
Day 9 – 9th May 2009 : Lusaka to Livingstone
Route: Lusaka, Kafue, Mazabuka, Choma, Livingstone
Distance: 509km
Fuel: Freely available, expensive
Border costs:n/a
Accomodation costs: Muramba camp – US$ 10.00 p/person plus wood ZK 10 000 per small bundle (approx R 20.00) Excellent facilities but restaurant very expensive – so we braai’d.


The reception and Bar area at Pioneer camp - a good place to be  ;D

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Lets "steek vas" a little in Lusaka.
What pleasant surprise

Take a look at the streets of Lusaka

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We can learn a bit or two
This city was clean and tidy. Thumbs up Zambia and the City Fathers - you have done yourself proud  :thumleft:


Fuel is, errrr........ pricey !!!!

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This actually, in my mind, an African joke. Shame, - the poor dudes. Sometimes even their pocket calculators fail them as the screens are not big enough.


Travelling through Lusaka

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Another neat little town
We stopped at the Shoprite to get some bread and cheese for lunch

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Another section of road being worked on and the dust was terrible - deep and powdery

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The potholes were something else. Not fun when you are fully loaded and a spare rim is a thousand km away

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Some sections were really good

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We were excited about getting to Livingstone and by mid afternoon our party arrived

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A name was randomly selected if I recall and we chose our campsite - Very pleasant

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of course - the main reason for coming here .......

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The Bridge from Zambia into Zim

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and the beautiful rain forest

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Livingstone himself

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After a great visit to the falls we headed back to town, got some, er.... provisions and made our way back to camp.
Zambians are great capitalists, so make sure you have enough dosh when going to the falls. Even the raincoats are for rent and they are not shy with the entrance fees

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Day 10 – 10th May 2009 : Livingstone (Zambia) to Francistown (Botswana)
Route: ZAMBIA – Livingstone, Kazangula, BOTSWANA – Kasane, Nata, Francistown
Distance: 573km
Fuel: Freely available and cheap
Border costs: Zambia – Ferry US$ 5.00 p/bike (Cars are US$ 20.00). Botswana – Temp import permit: Pula 50.00 and Road safety levy Pula 20.00 (approx R 110.00)
Accomodation costs: Woodlands US$ 8.00 p/person. Best facilities by far on the trip. Lovely campsite


It’s 04:32 in the morning and I hear the sound of a zip. It’s a sound common to any campsite, but still as irritating as hell, zweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet, zweeeeeeeeeeet and then, as a final insult, another short burst, zweeeeeeet. Now I’ve already been up and done my thing and had hoped to catch a bit more shut-eye but it was not to be. I hear a fumble and a body falls out of a tent lands in the soft earth with a thump. DAMN !! it say’s. Popipants was awake! He had tripped on the edge of his tent as he was exiting and had landed flat on his stomach OUCH!!!!


By 06:50 we were on the road and on the way to the ferry. This would be the first morning that there was a slight bite in the air.

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With the early morning sunlight still casting shadows and rays of light still dancing between the trees we turned off the main road and down to the border and ferry.
Interestingly this where I noticed for the first time how the open skies contributed to the GPS satellite reception. Accuracy was 2m and at times all 12 bars on the receiver were active.

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As usual the money changers and hustlers were upon us, but being slightly more savvy by now we chased them off and told them to come back once we had cleared passport control. Funacide in the meantime paid the ferry costs which worked out at US$ 5.00 per bike.

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The ferry crossing took much less time than expected as we were put onto the first available one together with two trucks, two 4x4’s and a busload of pedestrians.

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For the first time on this adventure we experienced the Botswana Customs and like our Namibian trip last year were pleasantly unsurprised. Their system is pleasant and efficient with the only bottleneck once again being at the payment of the taxes and permits.


The Kazungula ferry crossing from Botswana into Zambia must arguably be one of the busiest and time consuming border crossings in Southern Africa if you are a trucker. The queue to cross from the Botswana side must have been at least 4km long – quite amazing to say the least.


The road to Nata, straight as a pin and almost as boring. The first real African game was spotted in the form of a nice large African Elephant although the evidence of their presence was everywhere – the destroyed landscape and calling cards scattered now and then on the tar.

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The last time I had travelled this road was 22 years ago and remembered it well. Although certain portions were the original bitumen surface, a lot had been redone.
A notable exception being an approximately 60km portion just before Nata and for the umpteenth time we found ourselves dodging potholes and trucks. It is impossible to read the road surface and speeds of more than 40 - 60km/hour were nigh impossible.

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Although Nata was our planned destination for the day, we decided to push on till Francistown as it was only 2pm and this would shorten our final day by a fair margin.


Mobile washing line  :eek:

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With the sun reaching the horizon we approached Francistown and elected to stay at the Woodlands camp.

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Although not cheap, it was neither that expensive. The campsites were grassed

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and the ablutions were possibly the best I have ever seen.

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We discovered only later that this place was infested with ants and they got into everything.
Considering the Doom was not on our packing list we had to resort to alternative methods and products.

We had packed Peaceful Sleep and Popipants and Funacide had packed Tabard aerosols. Due to a series of experiments we concluded that Tabard wins hands down in the ant repellant department.

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It works better as a surface contact spray and is by far the better flame thrower. Clearly the researchers in the Peaceful Sleep factory have not had ant problems.

Unfortunately we only had so much Tabard and after nuking a 100 trillion ants, we ran out of the flammable stuff.
When you were desperate, then desperate measures had to be employed and the ants were now subjected to our new alternative pyromaniac plans – we poured a good deal of benzene on them and torched the little shits !!

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And, as they still said when cigararette ads were still around: "After Action - SATISFACTION !!!"  ;D >:D  :deal:

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Our security guard just looked on in amazement - strange people, these travellers from the South

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It was rather cold, sooner than later we said goodnight and retired to the warmth of our sleeping bags
 
Day 11 – 11th May 2009 : Francistown to Pretoria
Route: Francistown, Serule, Palapye, Martins Drift, Ellisras, Vaalwater, Nylstroom, Pretoria
Distance: 692km
Fuel: Freely available
Border costs: None

It was actually quite cold when we awoke and only the pressure on our bladders forced us out of the warm of the sleeping bags and tents and into the frosty air.

With the ant ant population temporarily decimated, we packed the wet tents in peace, made the all important Funacide brew and were on our horses by 7am.

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The main road through Francistown

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The border post at Martin Drift is always most pleasant and efficient and this day was no exception.


Back in SA and now in familiar territory, we cranked the throttles a little bit

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A final beer stop was made in Vaalwater, and then it was "oop ketel - huiswaarts"
Strange, in a way it was good to be home and when the overhead signs came into view - we knew it was over - Another African Adventure sucessfully completed

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Back home, our GPS's had a few stories to tell

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Once again, thankyou to my fellow Adventurers
It was great, you were all great.

And to my lovely wife - what a great experience to share with you.


Thankyou to all who read this report and the positive comments. Thankyou for your support and patience.


:3some: :thumleft:  TILL WE RIDE AGAIN ......  :) :thumleft:
 
jis Plothond, You guys rode the route I did in 2002, just in reverse.

Still remember getting to Mama Rulas, and they wanted to charge us US$50 per person!! I turned around, said no way, and as we walked away they called us back and dropped the price to US$25 per family of 4, including a steak dinner. Was a Mr Breytenbach that had the place at that time, the shark!  ;)

My g@t juik nou vir ry Malawi toe!

Lekker report
Groetnis
Deon
 
at last 'after action, satisfaction'!
 
Thanks for the lekker (as usual) report, as soon as I'm fit again, I'm going for a ride......
 
Thanks Plottie & Co.  :thumleft:

I really enjoyed that and i am looking forward to the planning of our trip for next year. Thanks for the breakdown on the costs, distances, etc.

Really great RR  :biggrin:
 
Nice report plottie, thanks for that.
 
What? It's finally finished?  :eek:

Some reading to do then for me.  :biggrin: 8)
 
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