The Warm Heart of Africa - by PopFunPlot & a Lady (Complete at LAST ... !!!)

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Day 6 – 6th May 2009 : Fat Monkeys
Route: nil
Distance: 0km
Fuel: n/a
Border costs: n/a
Accomodation costs: Fat monkeys MK 1000 p/p/night (Approx R 50.00). Basic but clean accommodation in dormatories, Clean Toilets, Hot showers, Bar & menu
Boat hire to Island: US$ 20.00 each (x4) including guide and lunch excluding drinks


I slept in...... ,
What a waste though - because by the time I dragged myself to the beach bar - the most perfect day was already presenting itself on the horison.  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:

We cannot even begin to describe what it was like and we were like young kids again. The excitment reached a new high as we eagerly awaited our guide to take us on the boat trip to the island.

But, .... lets start the day with the placid lake waters lappping at our bare feet, even before the sun rose


In no particular order:


The camp at rest

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A lone paddler appears, and then another

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.... and then some more.
There is a peace here - silently paddling along. A far cry from the chaos erupting whilst on our normal daily commute on a busy Gauteng Highway in South Africa, a few thousand km away. Maybe they know something we don't. Maybe these Malawians have found an inner peace that we work so hard to buy, so many hours behind our desks, in our cars and in the corporate jungle we call home.

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The tranquil beauty of an approaching sunrise

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see no evil, see no evil, see no evil ......  >:D

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The bar at Fat Monkeys where we drank an inordinate amount of Beer  :mwink:

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The bald chap in the foreground of the last pic was an interesting character to say the least
He has travelled all over the world on a bicycle, and this was his second trip down through Africa
If I recall correctly - more than 8 years now and well over 60 000km


.... and the campsite and rooms for rent
Can it get better than this ??  - I doubt it

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..... what then a better or more fitting title to our story ......

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So then the time arrived for our boat trip
En-route the guides stopped to picked up some supplies.
The children, curious to see what the visitors of the day looked like

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This little one, a little more indifferent, .....

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... aaaah the memories come flooding back. I remembered the beach much longer, the house much bigger - but then, 18 years is a long time and the minds dulls with time.
I did remember his name though - this was THE PLACE. This was MR STEVENS's place

However, time and the winds of change dealt him a cruel blow and places like Ghecko Lounge and Fat Monkeys are far more popular now.
There was also a time when the Ganjora's of our time frequented the place and it became quite a popular destination for those that wanted to "escape" for a while .........

Here's to you Mr Stevens - it was good

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Fish drying beds

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Some other accomodation along the beach

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and a rental establishment

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Not sure why, but when I saw these three - I thought of us - POPFUNPLOT  :ricky:
Free as birds - speading our wings on a journey through life

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We arrived on the Island.
The instructions were quite clear  :laughing4:

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Snorkeling on the Lake is an experience no man or woman should miss. It was just incredible !!!!!!

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..... and some of the other attractions in the water  >:D :mwink:

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Unlike the fish, we had to come up for air  :)

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Lunch being prepared

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Being guide, chef and supplier of info of all things lake related is hard work and our host took a well deserved rest

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There was a rocky outcrop a few metres away. Only I did not listen - it was more like a few hundred metres away - SILLY ME  :biggrin:  - Not fun on a stomach full of lunch and beer

Funacide and I on our impromptu expedition

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Explaining how big the man eating sharks were - out there in the deep blue sea  ;D

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Then another treat awaited us - beautiful Fish Eagles.
Beautiful birds

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and again

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Back to the mainland - We were content

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and sunburnt !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I cannot begin to describe how painfull it was wearing the bike jacket the next day

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All this drink was hungry work, and back a Fat Monkeys we had afternoon tea  ;D  - Pancakes with Bully Beef filling

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All this eating was thirsty work - so we had another beer  :imaposer:

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There was unfortunately some distraction, but we did our best to deal with it  8)

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Our orders arrived - HAPPY PANTS - Don't we just look dandy ...........  ;) :mwink:

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and our keyrings

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All too soon it ended and the sun set on a perfect day in Africa. Again, life was good;

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To prevent a culture shock - I think we go to Rake Malawi for a few days first before we go to heaven !!!!!

Thanks !!
 
Damn does that bring back good memories... Time to go again. What an awesome place for a holiday.
 
Sometimes ...




... the wait is worth it  :biggrin:

Thank you, looking forward to the rest  :thumleft:
 
Awesome!!! Really enjoying this one.

Now where is the rest :deal:
 
Wow lekkerrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pos meneer pos, ons wag!  :laughing4:
 
BUMP!!!!!!

:clock: :clock: :clock: :amazon: :amazon: :amazon: :sleepy2: :sleepy2: :sleepy2: :sleepy2: :sleepy2: :protest: :protest: :protest: :protest: :pottytrain2: :pottytrain2:
 
hey,,,im trying to not read this and waiting till its all written and done,,,,


this waiting is killing me,,,

think i'll take  maplot for kunch and just get the story firsthand,,,,

and not longhand like this is going,,,,,
 
Plothond said:
ok ok,

Will cancel the ride this weekend and complete the upload

HAPPY ???

;D

No Plothond, don't cancel a ride!!

Well wait...but don't let us wait to long!  :D
 
Plothond said:
ok ok,

Will cancel the ride this weekend and complete the upload

HAPPY ???

;D

No not happy... Thanks for the invite :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
 
funacide said:
Plothond said:
ok ok,

Will cancel the ride this weekend and complete the upload

HAPPY ???

;D

No not happy... Thanks for the invite :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:

mmmm...my invite must have gotten lost in the post ?!?!
 
We went through Zim, Moz and Malawi in '96 = puch 13 years ago!!! and it was an experience of a liftime!  :thumleft:
Only problem....I have a big problem adjusting to Africa-time.....not nice!
I know how that sunburnt back felt. Got my worst tan ever a Cape McClear! It hurt like.....and the evening before we went to bed, we covered the red backs, arms an dlegs with a aftersun lotion and woke up a 3 in the morning with little ants nibbling at our sore skin.
An adventure of a lifetime!!!
 
Plothond said:
ok ok,

Will cancel the ride this weekend and complete the upload

HAPPY ???

;D

Tik tok - tik tok - tik tok ........................!!!! Etc.
 
Day 7 – 7th May 2009 : Cape Mc Clear to Chipata
Route: MALAWI - Monkey Bay, Golomoti, Dedza, Lilongwe, Mchinji, ZAMBIA - Chipata
Distance: 369km
Fuel: Freely available
Border costs: Malawi – nil,  Zambia – Third party insurance ZK 100 000 and Carbon Tax ZK 50 000 per bike (approx R 300.00)
Accomodation costs: Mama Rula’s – US$ 7.00 p/person plus charcoal (no wood) Excellent camping facilities and showers, Bar


This is what our rooms looked like. Funacide and Popipants had some packing to do  :deal:

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First the bikes were prepped and packed. We were sad to leave and my sunburnt back was begging me to stay another day.
But we had places to go to, things to see.....

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..and then a decent Fat Monkeys' breakfast was had

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I remember the road between Cape McClear being a dirt road when I was last here 18 years ago. Now the mountain section was tarred. It did not make it any less challenging 2 nights previously, but at least there was no dust.

It was good to see in in daylight. This section of road has left me with a haunting memory over the last 18 years and seeing it again has given a bit of closure.

It was here, that after hitching a lift with two expat siblings, probably not older than 18 or 19 years of age, that we had an accident and the Suzuki Jeep we were in rolled onto it's roof.
The Australian who also with us had broken his leg a few weeks previously and it was in a cast.
By the time the dust had settled, his cast was broken and I had a deep gash in my arm.
Not good injuries in the Aids capital of the world.
Anyhow, that was then and this was now......

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Soon we left that flat lands again and the road rose into the hills.
This was not quite a direct route to Lilongwe, but the local recommended it - and who were we to argue ???
It had recently been tarred and I could soon see it could have been hell in the dirt. Some sections were exceedingly steep.

The road route must have been modified somewhat as all to often both Mapsource and T4A took us off the bitumen.

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Malawi is indeed an interesting country and is informally divided into various economic sections. The area around Zomba is known for it's coffin making, near Blantyre it's furniture and here it was carvings of an interesting nature

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The road builders could not have been long gone and the memories still lingered. All sorts of beautifully carved earthmoving equipment was on display. TLB's, Graders, Dozers, Loaders and Rollers.
If you are ever there in 4 wheels, leave enough space to take some of these works of art home.


Ever more the road climbed into the sky

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Again it changed,
Now charcoal was on display
Tens of little stalls. Each vendor eaking out a living, competing with his neighbour next door

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The outskirts of Lilongwe

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We stopped in Lilongwe to buy some food and change money
Again this was like sucking blood out of a stone.
Our honest advice is to plan your finances accordingly and change ENOUGH cash when the opportunity arises

After lunch we hurried to the border with Zambia.

This must have been one of the most backward and dirty crossings we experienced. Just altogether and plainly dirty, inefficient and poorly maintained.
The money changers and husslers are a PITA.

Somehow the road to Chipata was unsettling. It was dusk, we were once again in a foreign country and although we had a destination in mind, experience had now taught us to expect the unexpected.....

Happily this time, a little prior planning paid off and we got to Mama Rula's campsite just as the sun was settling behind the trees. There was a hint of a thunder storm, but it soon disappeared over the horison.

With a few cold beers down the tubes and a Jameson in hand, some meat sizzling on the charcoal (no wood here - just plain charcoal), again as per the evening before, and the one before that, and the one before that and,........
LIFE WAS GOOD .....  :thumleft:

 
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