Tjops in the Karoo

[Grootseun]

I was in two minds about writing a report of my recent trip.

(Warning: I write as a form of catharsis, there are some photo’s along with lots of ramblings from a purely personal point of view.)

Today I’m feeling real low. Have not felt like this in a very long time. I have been suffering from depression my whole life, and only the last two years have I sought help, which was a life saver (no pun intended). The last while, I have been slowly but surely been regressing, and I will probably need to re-establish a connection with a professional going forward.

As I am sitting here post-insane deadline (SNAFU for this time of the year) I have been flipping through some photos on my phone.

I had a look at the pics I took on the trip, as well as some of the pics posted on the riders group, and I guess it inspired me to get this going. So here goes:

I was fortunate enough to have been invited for a weekend trip by my mate Biesie. Being based in the big smoke, travel time on a bike to get down to the cape and back up to JHB is always a constraint.

A plan was formulated, which meant some air travel and a hired bike.

The time from finalizing plans, to the actual first day of travel always goes far too slowly.

The broad plan was, fly down Friday, ride to our first stop-over in the afternoon, ride Saturday and Sunday, fly back home Monday.

Leave was approved (Both work and home) and all was golden.

I don’t really have a format of this report in mind, and I’m just jotting stuff down as I remember.

(The photos will start shortly; I am sorry that I write so much nonsense)

Friday:

Fairly bumpy flight from Lanseria.

Got picked up from the Airport by Biesie. We have to go and collect the hired bike in Ta’ble-vu

This bike will be lovingly known as Terminator for the duration of the trip.

The bike was rented from https://adventurebikerentalscapetown.co.za/

This service was highly recommended for good reason, the only way to describe their operation is excellent, the bike was absolutely spotless. After a quick low-down of the workings of the terminator and lowering the bike so I can just about flat-foot it, I was on my way.

I made my way to Biesie’s house in the Paarl via Durbanville, where I joined the Highway at some point before Kraaifontein.

I am feeling quite intimidated by the terminator. It’s a big bike, and with the twist of a wrist, it’s mach three.

It’s as if my name changed to John Connor when I swung my leg over this beast. The terminator is exactly as deadly as they made it out in the movies in my mind.

Made it safely to Biesies house. From here the plan is to cruise to Montague for our first night’s accommodation at Biesie’s parents..

We are joined by Yellowfever (or Silversurfer or whatever his Forum handle defaulted to)

After packing, repacking being worried about packing, We hit the road, skip the tunnel and take old Du Toit’s Kloof. I am equally enthralled by the twisties in the road and the amount of water that came down on these mountains. It is clearly evident in the washed away sections on the side of the mountains. Nature is pretty amazing.

Temps are cool, I uncharacteristically checked the weather prior to the trip, and luckily packed accordingly.
We take a small break along the road, Terminator glaring at me from the front. I take no care in framing the photo, with the resulting randoms spoiling an otherwise below par photo

Onwards to Montagu.

There is evidence of the amount of water that recently came down in the area everywhere.

We roll into Montagu a little while after sunset. Get settled, and crack a most welcome beer.

A hearty supper of braaivleis is had.

The lamb tjops becomes a bit of a theme for the trip.

We turn in for the night as there is riding to be done tomorrow.

To be continued....

 

[Wildwindfr]

Thanks for sharing!
To busy at this point to take any trips so living through others!

 

[Grootseun]

Day 2

(Both of the trip, and me writing this report. )

My day this morning started with an involuntary cold shower like my day in Montagu. Apparently it’s good for you. I’m not 100% convinced.
Back to the trip:

Breakfast was left-over supper with a fried egg and sweet coffee.

Conditions are overcast, with the beginnings of a drizzle. The ground where we parked our bikes is soaked, and soft under foot. My first battle with Terminator is getting the beast to roll back out of the divot the rear wheel made in the soil. I eventually get out with the help of Biesie’s dad.

I had the realisation right there, that I can not afford to get stuck or into technical riding with this beast. It’s not mine after all, and this trip is not about suffering and epic adventures as depicted in magazines.

We top up fuel and hit the road.

You will have to be patient with me, I don’t know the area at all, and I did not have a GPS on the bike to record tracks to go back to check names. (Maps.ME on the phone was abandoned as I can’t read the text without my glasses, and it’s UX is shit.)

Conditions as I said are overcast. The road surface is compact with almost zero dust. It’s not really cold, but 15 degrees is not warm either. The lining in my jacket and the buff is doing it’s job nicely.

We ride through light rain at times, one can see it rolling in, or us rolling into it as the road winds.

The scenery is really something, I will not ever get used to mountains, hills and the distorted rock shelves that was formed in this area. I should have taken more photos.

We stop every so often to regroup and check that everyone is ok.

The terminator has been well behaved. The unadulterated power on tap scares the shite out of me. The suspension is quite something, even with the 19inch front, the bike sits firm around corrugated corners.

We meander on and stop to take in the Anysberg vistas. ( I had to think very hard to remember this name)

We get to our first obstacle of the day. A fairly fast flowing river, washing over the low-water bridge.

There are some vehicles stopped on the other side, which is not confidence inspiring for me. I get to go first, I guess it’s better to get it over with. It’s gonna go one of two ways….

I make it through the water with surprising ease. The Mud on the other side is another story. My line gets altered, I panic but luckily keep the throttle steady, my line is now straight towards the first vehicle. I guess the bike’s TC did it’s thing, and I somehow correct and miss the vehicle. Guess Terminator did not want to go down right there, because I was certainly not in control of the terminator at this point..

Evidence on the photo. (I notice the forklift on the tractor afterwards…I’m sure it’s there to fish oversize and heavy bikes out the water)

Our plan is to meet up with the balance of our group in Laingsburg. They left CT in rain, which maintained all the way to the meet-up point.

We are a group of 5 now.

We roll on towards Sutherland, our overnight stop.

Road conditions is not bad, here and there are some deep drifts, but out group is very considerate, and someone always stops to warn the rider behind of the hazard.

We get to a washed away bridge. We dismount to inspect a possible route through, my feet sink about 10cm into the soil. In my head, I clearly think: “I’m not wrestling a bike through this.”

Down river there is a possibility to spend about two hours navigating bikes over and around some round stones, but this is not that ride. We turn around to the last fork in the road, and follow some powerlines towards the general direction of Sutherland (or not, I have no farking idea where I am)

We get to another bridge, we dismount to see if we can see below the surface, but there is no way to tell. While we are discussing various options, MellowJo switches on his Kroes Control and rides through. No issues. So no excuse now. Each one gets a turn, and make it through with little effort.

At the next junction, I offer The Terminator to Biesie for a ride.

I get on his pig, and never in my life had I thought the day would come where a leven fiddy ADV would feel like a little bike, but it does. And it’s AWSOME.

A big fan of the 1150GS (Pun intended)

Perhaps it would be warmer if these fans were not left on?

The 11fiddy is riding well, I instantly feel comfortable on the bike. Maybe a little too comfortable. At one stage I was going along nicely, but chose the line through some water/mud incorrectly – The bike’s rear is trying to overtake the front. I don’t panic, or I do, but I don’t overreact. The bike finds solid ground and straightens out.

MellowJo is behind me, and bares witness to the spectacle. He rides up next to me to either tell me I ride like tjop, or he cant believe I saved it. I can’t tell, as the adrenaline is pulsing through my whole body.

We are getting close to Sutherland. I know this because it’s colder than it’s been the whole day. (and the sign at the T-junction shown a directional arrow with the name.)

It’s now raining properly, with icy wind. The 20kms on the tar feels like an eternity.

We roll into Sutherland, and find a spot that serves warm beverages.

After warming up and having a light snack, we stop at the bottle store to pick up meat and liquid refreshments for the evening.

The overnight stop is Rhenoster Vallei guest farm, about 40kms out of town. The road climbs steeply the last 5kms, and I did not think Sutherland can get colder, but I’m sure it gets frosty this high up.

It’s a quaint farmhouse with all the amenities. I’m not sure if the people that built this house was midgets, but the door frames are all very low. I take note of this walking in, and subsequently forget about it. I knock my head on the frame, and if I was not wearing a cap, I’m sure I would have split my scalp. The cap hides the bump on my head nicely.

We kuier, and have Lamb tjops, braai broodjies and bykosse. It was most delicious.

(There may be photos left over at the bottom, that I did not insert into the post. For your viewing pleasure.)

 

[Grootseun]

Still more to come...

 

[Eisbein]

Just a quick add-on
This was where we witnessed the Kroes control

Highlander with his 1200 and Grootseun on the Terminator

 

[Black_Hawk]

Lekker man, ons wag in spanning vir die res van julle avontuur.

Daar is niks beter as 'n lekker bike trip saam met goeie vriende om jou kop so bietjie skoon rte maak nie.

 

[MellowJo]

Hi GS (Grootseun), if you don't mind, I will just add a few words about the Bomb squad who joined the party on Saturday .....?

 

[MellowJo]

So Biesie included me and Eisbein in the invite, but I could only get a one-night-pass, and that was with serious negotiations ....

The weather forecast was showers all day, so I packed and dressed appropriately.

The Plan was to meet the A team at Laingsburg at 10h00.

We left from Melkbos and Brakkendale around 6am and met just outside Klipheuwel, from where we slipped over Bainskloof and on to Ceres for a fuel stop.

 

[MellowJo]

It was so wet, that we decided to stick to the tar after Theronsberg pass, and turn right to pass Aquila Nature reserve and then to join the N1 just outside Touwsriver ....

As we emerged from a very wet Ceres, we sipped away from the rain and the road became dryer as we went up the Theronberg pass .......

And so the plan changed back to taking the gravel road straight through the Tankwa to Matjiesfontein, finally ending up at Laingsburg just before 10

 

[Eisbein]

So Biesie included me and Eisbein in the invite, but I could only get a one-night-pass, and that was with serious negotiations ....

The weather forecast was showers all day, so I packed and dressed appropriately.

The Plan was to meet the A team at Laingsburg at 10h00.

We left from Melkbos and Brakkendale around 6am and met just outside Klipheuwel, from where we slipped over Bainskloof and on to Ceres for a fuel stop.

I can't remember when last I went over Bains Kloof so slow
It was raining cats and dogs, was dark and my visor kept fogging up




MellowJo asked me to take a photo here, as the previous time he was on this road this was where his GSA drowned

 

[Grootseun]

Thanks MellowJo and Esibein.


Day 3:

I wake up with a headache, not sure if it’s the refreshments or the bump on the head.

The group has some coffee and left over braai broodjies and braaivleis.

I should have posted this in the previous day's report, but here's a photo going up to out overnight stay

Our accommodation

We saddle up and hit the road. About 500m down the road is our first water crossing, I’m mentally not prepared for it, but after the crossing, I’m fully engaged.

We bid our hosts farewell at their house on the way out.

The vista is something to behold. It’s really breathtaking. It’s difficult to concentrate on the road, and the scenery at the same time. I think there is a place for a chameleon eye control augmentation in humans… ( you will have to excuse me, this is day 15 since starting to write this report, and I may be going crazy due to workload.)

We meander down into the lower (or regular height) sections of the Sutherland area and stop in town for a sip of fuel.

Our group splits up. Eisbein is not feeling it on the bike He took an alternative way out of the second water crossing, and in Sutherland decides to take the fastest route home. MellowJo accompanies him.

Ride to ride another day.

More to come.

 

[Grootseun]

Day 3 Continued:

I was fortunate to form another friendship, I really enjoyed meeting MellowJo, his calm demeanour and friendliness makes one feel comfortable, like old friends.

We are three again. The plan for the rest of the day is from Sutherland, to ride down ouberg pass. Biesie and I have some unfinished business with the pass. In December I bought my 800GS adv in the cape, and during my journey back home, we had to turn around going up Ouberg due to flood damage.

There is still a sign at the top that warns of flood damage….

After 5 minutes at the top, taking in the vastness, and the spectacular view, we roll down.

I struggle to get comfortable on the terminator. Eventually, I remember to get my weight back on the bike, and it seems to be rolling down without trying to run away. 1st gear and clutch is the way to go.

As we roll down, I keep on waiting for the gnarly sections to start, but there has been some repair work done to the pass, and it goes by without incident.

I am now on “familiar” roads. Except, the road surface is completely different from what I remember from December. It’s the equivalent of a dirt Autobahn. Ze Terminator does not let this opportunity go by. Before I know it, wer’e flirting with 180. It’s farking ridiculous. I reign ze german killer back in and we negotiate the turn successfully. At the split in the road our Trio regroups. Words to fully describe what just transpired fails me.

It's a lot warmer down here than at the top, and I rid my jacket of it’s lining for the first time in 2 days.

We get to a river crossing. I remember the bridge being washed away when we crossed the opposite way in December. It’s even more washed away now. The route we took last year is not an option anymore. There are tracks where vehicles have crossed previously. I walk it (barefoot for some idiotic reason) and identify a possible path.


We walk Biesie’s bike through. Yellowfever is next, he rides through with no issues. I ride through as well (boots I wanted to keep dry earlier, is nice and wet now. )

Not long after the river I stop for the obligatory photo at the signpost.

I’m back in the Tankwa karoo. A place that has forever a piece of my soul and Biesie’s sole. I can’t fully believe what I’m seeing. The purple fygies has coloured the side of the mountains. Interspersed with yellow flowers (please forgive my ignorance of the correct karoo flora)

I often stop to take in what I’m seeing, and I realise it’s not possible to record my experience in photos.

I’m rambling.

We roll through to Padstal. After a burger and a beer, the one (tallest) leg of our tripod heads home to CT.

Biesie looks at the height of the sun in the sky, he turns to me saying that there are roads to be ridden, with plenty of daylight still ahead. The sun only sets way after 7 in the Paarl.

I came here to do one thing, and that was ride bikes with friends.

We ride up katbakkies (Lots of Water here) and in stead of turning left towards Ceres, we hit a right towards Oasis ( A fabled place, I have read of on the forum, and heard stories from fellow travelers.)

Just as I think there could not possibly be more varied and breathtaking vistas, we meander through the Cederberg mountains. I cannot believe my eyes and the road seems to go on forever.

The road snakes through the valley, and eventually to a rise that I saw in the distance when we started this meander. There are two vehicles parked at the top. Inside and around the cars are female students from Stellenbosch. They are dressed for the temperatures, and I struggle to focus on getting the bike turned around to stop and take a photo, of the valley – the Cederberg valley…

A little number with a French accent approaches, she is super friendly, enquiring about our journey on our motorbikes. I am equal amounts amused and bemused. Why are they here in student vehicles clearly not suited for this road? I soon realised she approached the two dirty old bullets on bikes to find out how far to the tar road, as they have been travelling super slow, and they need to get back to Stellenbosch.

No-one is going to believe us. Biesie and I share a knowing chuckle, this is the stuff of campfire stories, where no-one believes the teller.

They manage to get everyone in the vehicles, I did not mind waiting and observing the spectacle. They move along and we can finally take that photo we have been waiting for.

(Which in hindsight is a bit of a let-down by comparison)

We roll into Oasis for a beer. We settle our bill after a brief chat to SweetiePie.

Next up is Uitkykpass. The recent rain has the water pouring out the side of the mountain. The pass is great to ride, and feels like it’s over too soon.

We get to Boesmansrivier, but it flows too fast to cross on bikes. We follow a dirt road next to the river, through some citrus orchards. I can’t believe how sweet the air smells.

The road is quite nice, and would have ridden beautifully if there weren’t as many potholes. The road is being used by a lot of vehicles that can’t fjord the river.

We roll into Citrusdal, fuel up the bikes for the last stretch home.

I was pretty gatvol at this time (alugh this may be too strong a word) , fatigue is setting in, but the wonderful views, and golden hour kept me focussed. The cruise control on the bike is just what I needed, and I take to opportunity to take some snaps.

Biesie’s house is reached just after sunset. My head is buzzing from the day’s riding, the views, the roads, the students….

We unsaddle the horses and I hit the shower.

A lovely supper of lamb tjops, wors and braaibroodjies was had along with a couple of glasses of red wine. I hit the bed and sleep like a corpse.

The next morning my trip that still feels so surreal concludes. The bike is dropped off, and I am headed to the airport for my flight back to the big smoke. We stop off for a beer at the Blue Peter, on what seems to be the most perfect Cape Town day. A great way to end a trip of a lifetime for me.

Thanks to my riding companions, a great bunch of guys I will share the road with you any day of the week. Special thanks to Biesie who always opens his home to me and welcomes me like part of the family. It's always bitter sweet leaving my friends in Cape town, I know I have made lekker memories, but going back to Joburg has me feeling sad, always. It's a necessary evil I suppose.

I started this thread with a mention of Depression, writing and sharing this has certainly helped, and the feelings I had when I started writing is now in the past. It goes like this sometimes. Some days can be so bloody low, and a couple of days later, everything seems fine again. If you are a sufferer, and you have not sought help, do so, for your own sake and your loved ones.

If you feel like having a chat, or just sharing when you have no-one else that can listen. Hit me up on private message.

Thank you for reading.

 

[Fuzzy Muzzy]

Lekker man, welcome to the playground for adv bikes. for me nothing solves depression like riding a bike to your limit and then some, touring, being with mates, sleeping under the stars next to a fire, food for the soul.. you inspired me to start writing ride reports again

 

[Sheepman]

Great report and pics GS

 

[grim101]

Awesome trip. Jy maak my sommer jaloers.

 

[GeelKameel]

Great report, uit jou hart en siel!
Baie dankie dat jy dit gedeel het


Interesting comment you made:

I get on his pig, and never in my life had I thought the day would come where a leven fiddy ADV would feel like a little bike, but it does. And it’s AWSOME.

Viva 'leven-fiftie!! Die koning van die boxers!

 

[RobLH]

Such a lekker report, thanks.

 

[2StrokeDan]

I like your honesty about things in your life, from your depression to your feelings while on the bike.

I enjoyed reading your report.

Thank you.

 

[uyster]

Lekker report ! Dankie

 

[Chrisl]

Ek het die RR nou vreeslik geniet, jy moet meer skryf en ry.