"Twie Tiewe" and dinner with a President - another side of Namibia

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R

Red

Guest
After reading through our fellow travellers' trip report it is quite obvious that from an adventure point of view we are never going to beat it.  Wow, what a trip.

Stephan and I was on our yearly "Trip without any dependants" and we were having a ball, even though we did not do the full-out adventure thing.  We travelled more than 4000km and around 1000km on dirt.

Please don't laugh, but I thought Namibia had some sand dunes, a canyon and and almost no water.  The bits sticking up was according to my limited knowledge Spitzkoppe, the Moon Landscape and the Waterberg Mountains.  Of course every now and then some Bushmen painting were done on some rocky bits.  Before I forget, there was Henties, Etosha, the Skeleton Coast and Naukluft as well.  Apart from a few towns that was what I expected.

I was so wrong.  We met wonderful people, saw some stunning scenery, travelled some interesting roads and we can't wait to go back.

We will start posting the full trip report tonight.   ;D
 
i'd rather hear about nam from a real woman's perspective  :peepwall:
 
Day 0: 6/6/2008

We left home around 15:00 after final delivery was taken from KLR Central, a sterling job was done by Groenie and Charlie, and made for Zeerust.  We arrived there whilst riding into the setting sun.  After our first trip dinner of hamburgers at the Spur we were referred to the Abjaterskop Hotel. 

We officially started our trip parked next to a Persian carpet.  Not bad.  Not that our accommodation stayed that way.    ;D

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Cost for the evening:  R440.

Day 1: 7/6/2008

We made for Ghanzi on the first day, not sure of the fuel and accommodation situation once we turned left onto the TransKalahari towards the border.  We saw a place Ghanzi Trailblazers on the way in and I got the bright idea that it might nice staying there.

Ja right.  The first km, it was quite a good dirt road.  After that it turned into a bike breaking sand road lasting 4 km.  Stephan fell twice on the way in.  The first time we had to unpack the 1200 completely because we could not lift it fully loaded in the soft sand. The second time the foreman of the place came to the rescue, helping to lift the bike without having to unpack AGAIN.  He told us he ran out of his house next to the gate to stop us because he knew we were going to have problems, but we did not see him. 

The camp itself was quite funky when we got there, even though we could not see much because it was dark already.

Cost for accommodation: 110 pula.

Day 2: 8/6/2008

After sleeping in a Bushman hut for the first time in our lives, we started packing. 

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Stephan decided that I went native.  :p

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The way out was not nice, because we knew what was waiting this time.  To add to the sand problem was the fact that there were hidden rocks buried in the sand.  Just to make things interesting.

Then Stephan went down.  I was behind him, just seeing the bike spinning around completely.  By the time I got to him, he was up but limping and one of the panniers was lying on the ground, looking a bit busted. 

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While we were busy trying to figure out what we could do, the American looking chewing gum munching owner of the farm first tapped his fingers on the steering wheel waiting for us to get out of the way and then he nearly run me over with his fancy 4x4.  Not offering any help or anything.  I got a â??Rude piece of sh**â? in when he was level with me.  I really hoped he heard me.  @sshole.

A plan was made.  KLR Centralâ??s racks to the rescue. 

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One 1200GS pannier loaded and we left for Gobabis.  The trip was uneventful and we arrived at Gobabis nice and early, finding place to stay at the â??By die Damâ? resort.  Nice and clean.  We pitched our tent for the first time on the trip on our little patch of grass and we had the whole lapa to ourselves.  Will try "boer maak 'n plan" with the pannier tomorrow.

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Cost for accommodation: N$ 100 per day.






 
Kom sister skryf, this looks like yet another good report, in the making.  ;)
 
2008. The year the WD's invaded Nambia! :cool:

Waiting in anticipation for the rest, Red!
 
Morning you wonderful people.......ok thats all the nice you get from me, now where is the rest of the report... ;) :)
 
Day 3: 9/6/2008

Gobabis.

Stephan went looking for someone to help sort out the pannier, get a haircut and do some grocery shopping while I looked after our camp. 

I saw an interesting bike coming in and went to investigate with the camera.  The Blingmobile is NOT residing in Gauteng.  It is in Gobabis.  The ownerâ??s name is Michael.  He told me he had 13 bicycles in his life but â??Die ander 12 is almal opgesteelâ? (The other 12 were stolen).

He put his pride and joy in the sun for me for a nice photograph, but declined the invite to pose with his bike.

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In the camp there were a herd of springbuck.  The last evening they played and displayed their white â??flags.  It was really special.

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Stephan came back after 4 hours (still without a haircut) because the guy helping him had some serious â??kuieringâ? sessions while working on the brackets that he and Stephan designed on the fly.  Apparently he left the building completely for quite a while to go and visit someone.  Donâ??t you just love small towns?  No rush.  :D

Allâ??s well that end well.  Here was the final solution.  It lasted the rest of the trip without any problems.

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Day 4: 10/6/2008

Gobabis, Hochveld, Waterberg Plateau.

I had another brainwave.  We were going to bypass to Windhoek and take the C30 from Gobabis to the Waterberg.  It was a good idea at the time.  :eek:  The GPS did not cooperate.  According to the Garmin the trip was 1000km+ and according to the map around 300km.

During the course of the day I decided that my brainwaves are going to die a very violent death because we had to work hard. 

The road was very good 70% of the way with some very nice hard tracks.  Unfortunately we had to deal with an evil wind that kept blowing us into the â??middelmannetjieâ?.  We had to counter the wind most of the way.

A pink road.

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A white road.

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To add to the wind fun we had to deal with some sand.  Quite a few kmâ??s were red sand, which did not really give any problems apart from me talking to myself quietly.  The interesting bits were some sandpits in the road.  You would travel nicely in your hard tracks and all of a sudden there would be this enormous shallow hole in the road (not riverbeds).  One of them nearly got me because I started getting the â??Its not so bad â?? just look ahead and all will be OKâ? feeling.  That oneâ??s sand was deep and Stephan thought I was going to come down because I was weaving madly, I stayed on top and at the rest stop I demanded after that, I carefully studied the road for quite a while.

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We could refuel in Hochfeld.  We found 3 well groomed ladies there.  One of them told us that it was around 130km to the Waterberg Plateau resort.  She lied.  It was 200.  Damn Namibians.  Never believe them when they tell you anything about a road.

Along the way we met several â??packsâ? of warthogs, which always wanted to be on the other side of the road, crossing at great speed right in front of the bike preferably.

When we got to the tar, we looked back.  We travelled exactly 323km on dirt and we still had a bit to go before we got to the resort.

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The resort was very nice, but ridiculously expensive.  If you would ever like to go in that direction, there are some altenatives just down the road.  At that stage I was so tired, I could not travel another 500 meters, let alone a few km's.  I nearly fell asleep with my face in my spagetti that night.

Here is some proof that dustbins outlast goverments.  :ricky:

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Cost for a camp site for the two of us, one night only:  N$ 420
 
Sorry, went to dinner with friends last night and I am desperately looking for a batch of pics that went missing.

Apologies on the quality of the pics, though.  Our camera decided to pack up on the trip.  Some pics were taken with Stephan's cellphone.   :mad:
 
ya more - don't let friends keep you from a nice rr ;)
 
Day 4 - 6: 10/6/2008 â?? 13/6/2008

Waterberg Plateau to Khorixas

We decided that we bought a piece of the mountain. So we drove around in the resort (took us about 5 minutes) and took some pictures.

Here is one of the sticking up bits I knew about in Namibia (it was in the guidebook and our paper map).

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We then left for Tsumeb.

We just need to explain a bit about this decision.  We are slowly getting into the minerals thing.  Not serious or fanatic and we do not plan to start buying minerals on a big scale, but we are starting to read up on it, and if we know there are displays etc. we will go and have a look.

Tsumeb delivered over 200 different minerals over the years and is renowned around the world.  More than 40 of these minerals are unique to the area.

We arrived in town and started looking for a place to stay.

The old municipal campsite is still beautiful however the ablution blocks are a disgrace, but I will not let my dogs sleep there.  Stephan asked at an Information Centre and we were referred to â??Mausbadâ?.  We arrived there and we had the first really big laugh of the trip.  It turned out to be â??Mousebirdâ? â?? a backpacker establishment.  Well, beggars canâ??t be choosers so we pitched our tent under the washing line in the back yard for 2 days.  We learned the ropes of staying at a backpackers very fast.  Donâ??t leave ANYTHING in the fridge without you name written on it.  Our tomatoes disappeared into their stew and the milk got used for coffee and tea. 

We walked around in town and really met some interesting people.  Some of the locals were living there for years, and you can write books on the stories they tell.  Apparently the old Tsumeb miners were master smugglers.  There is a legendary foot high transparent blue crystal that was smuggled out of the mine in the seventies.  Apparently it was sold on the pavement by some lucky guy for R250,000.00, a small fortune for those days.

Unfortunately the little shop where we thought we might be able to purchase something had almost nothing in the shop.  Several mines closed down, and there is no source for the shop anymore.

Some interesting story about one of the mines is that it was flooded a few years ago.  One source said that it was due to a power cut that lasted for days and another say that the miners went on strike and because the pumps were not manned, the mine flooded and all of them are now without any livelihood.  The last bit of information was in one of the guidebooks.  I thought the whole Namibia was a desert.  ;D

Etosha Café is an oasis in down.  â??Old Germanâ? according to real McCoy German backpackers.  There are some Nazi stickers and badges in a display cabinet in the shop.  The beergarden is at the back of the shop and really very nice.  Stay away from the hamburgers unless you are desperate, the patties contained more bread crumbs than meat.  :p  The beer was nice and cold.

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â??Mausbadâ?: N$ 120 per night.

After messing around in Tsumeb, we made our way to Twyfelfontein where we planned to stay at a community campsite.

On the way there we stopped at a Crystals and Minerals shop in Outjo.  Fortunately I had limited resources because I could have spent a fortune there without breaking into a sweat.  As it was I broke into a sweat trying to decide what I would buy.  :drif:

In the end I bought a polished fossilized nautilus and a little Lapis Lazuli elephant.

Arriving in Khorixas we realised that we were not going to make it to Twyfelfontein and started to look for accommodation.  We went past the hotel because the sign did not say anything about camping.  We found the Khorixas Rest Camp just outside of town.  It belongs to Namibian National Parks.

At the front gate we were met by 2 policemen and 2 armed soldiers.  I made a joke asking:  â??Why are there soldiers and police at the gate.  Are there lots of crooks inside?â?  My stand-up comedy career lasted about 3 seconds.  They were extremely serious and they let us in after signing a book.

At the pub after sorting out the payment, the nosey barman kept asking us questions.  Who are we?  Where are we coming from?  How did it happen that we landed up in Khorixas?

Then he told us that the President of Namibia is on his way to stay there for the night.  Oh, and the â??Old Presidentâ?, Sam Nujoma will be in the party as well.  They were scheduled to have a series of meetings with the local people the next day, amongst others about plans to tar the road to Hentiesbaai in future.

After finishing our beers we left to pitch tent and go clean up.

As we came out of the bathroom we heard the noise of the presidentâ??s convoy arriving.  Something was making an enormous racket.  I thought it must be a huge truck with a major siren attached to it.

Second big laugh of the trip.  It was a 1400 Nissan bakkie.  Its roof was taken over by two gigantic lights and some megaphone type thing.  It would have woken the dead.

So, that night we had dinner with the president.  He was in the dining area of the resort and we were quietly eating our Salty Cracks and mussels, trying not to make any sudden movements because there were guys with big guns walking around.

Cost for a camp site for one night:  N$ 125
 
Trailrider said:
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;D :thumleft:

;D  Well, I told Mrs Trailrider that it will travel everywhere with me when she gave it to me, and it does.  It went to Moz and our trip to Bots as well.  It is going to be the best travelled Wilddog blanket in the world.  One of the best gifts ever. 

 
 

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