Overland Bruce said:
....
Your frankness is welcome.
The reason we were comfortable with the slime is that we'd already successfully patched a tube with it. I carry vulcanizing glue and big Slime (brand) motorcycle patches, not those flimsy bicycle patches. I can assure you, if you apply the vulcanizing glue to both the (cleaned) tube and the patch, leave it 15 minutes and then apply it with pressure, nothing is going to make that patch peel off.
One of these days, I'll make a video demonstrating this.
Personally, I believe that the reason patches fail with slime is becasue often:
1) the patch is a flimsy bicycle patch made in China from a cheap bicycle repair kit.
2) The glue is contact cement instead of vulcanizing glue.
3) The rider is too impatient to wait 15 minutes for the glue to vulcanize.
4) The tube is a shitty Chinese tube with very little rubber in it's chemical makeup, so patches are less likely to stick. I've started using Michelin tubes recently which aparrently have more ruber in their chemical makeup (and are therefore more easily patched with vulcanizing glue).
Would love to hear your thoughts...
I stand corrected then. In the interest of research, I would still like to understand more details though - do you by any chance remember what tube it was you guys patched?
I still would stay clear off Slime or any similar product, unless as a last desperate resort - e.g. I run out of patches in middle of nowhere so will try to pour that stuff in to see if it can stop / limit air leak. I'm skeptical they really work with tubes as these stretch (I believe these product were intended for tubeless tyres, which do not flex much) - and the fact that you already had to patch tube with one in it seems to confirm this to an extent. Also they make proper mess of any future flat fixing with that goo messing up everything. They also do tend to block up the valve stem making pressure reading unreliable.
Patching the tube is topic that fascinates me as it is absolutely essential skill for trips like this and yet - even after years of reseach and trials - it still seems like an alchemy - or rather black magic - to me. I can patch a tube nowadays with reasonable success - i.e. I will usually manage to make it work but it takes sometimes multiple tries.
My current understanding is as follows (and I invite and appreciate comments from fundis who know what they talk about as I would like to get to the bottom of this - it really is essential skill for this kind of riding that I am not able to master 100% for some reason): The root of the problem is that the compounds used for tubes have changed over the years.
- In old days mostly natural rubber was used for tubew, which responds well to the traditional vulcanizing process you described Bruce
- Currently most of the tubes are made of butyl rubber (synthetic one) - including Michelin ones at least according to this post:
https://www.bobsbmw.com/store/product/michelin-tube-17-rear. The main reason is cost - they are significantly cheaper than natural rubber ones. They have some functional advantages (do not leak air like natural rubber) as well as disadvantages (more prone to catastrophic blowouts). I think it is pretty safe bet, that - unless you specifically seek and order specialized natural rubber ones - most tubes you will buy on the shelves in the bike / HW shops are butyl rubber, especially here in Africa.
And here lies the problem IMHO: the butyl rubber doesn't respond to vulcanizing as the natural rubber does. It actually works exactly other way around - you should not use vulcanizing glue on butyl rubber, but have to use rubber cement.
Here is my understanding of it now after many frustrating hours in various bushes in Africa (Bruce, you might recall my struggle not far away from Epupa Falls on our trip:
https://wilddog.net.za/forum/index.php?topic=222953.msg4039508#msg4039508):
Natural rubber: follow the vulcanization process Bruce described
Butyl rubber: In many ways the process is exact opposite of the natural rubber:
- use Rubber cement, not vulcanizing glue
- use cement very sparingly - a lesson I have learned in the link above. Ignorantly (or rather being used to vulcanization) I have spread cement generously over clean tube as well as patch, and even after letting it dry for 10 minutes or so, it will always come off. Justin finally explained on satellite phone that I have to use only minimal amount on the tube itself and not on patch at all and after letting it dry up I would press it on with the round end of my wheel spanner.
With this approach I was able to fix even heavy duty tubes, which before were abslutely unfixable for me (and even some shops that tried).
I welcome any feedback on this as I would like to get to the bottom of what the right approach is. It is annoying that one needs to know compound of the tube to be able to apply right solution.