8615KM, 5 COUNTRIES IN 25 DAYS, (RR COMPLETE!)

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Fork Hennie , jy trek die stoppe uit nê , wat n lekker trip . Eendag as ek nie meer boer nie , dan gaan ek saam met jou so trip doen .  :thumleft:
8500 kilo's in n maand se tyd , sê vir my julle gatte het seer geraak en julle het gewens vir n aircon Hilux . ;D Iets sê my jy gaan hierdie trip vir lank onthou , verseker ja . :thumleft:
 
Fenderbender said:
Fork Hennie , jy trek die stoppe uit nê , wat n lekker trip . Eendag as ek nie meer boer nie , dan gaan ek saam met jou so trip doen .  :thumleft:
8500 kilo's in n maand se tyd , sê vir my julle gatte het seer geraak en julle het gewens vir n aircon Hilux . ;D Iets sê my jy gaan hierdie trip vir lank onthou , verseker ja . :thumleft:

thanks man, jys reg dit was great en ons gatte was seer maar dit was so great jy dink nie daaraan nie.

maar wag die beste kom nog, dis net so baie fotos om uit te sorteer!!
 
A very refreshing read. Thanks for sharing with us. Let me know the title of the book if you publish.
 
Day 14:

Yesterday (14 Nov), as I'm 2 days late due to full days and lack of reception.

This morning I woke up a couple of times and stood up looking for Elephants but could see any from the lodge.

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We had breakfast and Abri washed the dishes in the bath and yes I have pics to prove this. The sun and blue sky were back.


We left after that. A moment of stress going out of the camp. And off we went on the Elephant road. I stood up on my bike for 30km looking into the bushes. And then thought whatever. This is the most boring road we've done so far. Then moment of panic in the helmet, everyone shouting. Photo blablabla and in Afrikaans so I could only guess there was exitment. And there it was, 20m on the left everyone piling on the breaks. We got a couple of pics but Abri wanted to take pics from behind, the bikers were quite keen to take it from the front, you can only imagine we were quite keen to pass it and then think of pics. We were undoubtfuly in first gear at all time ready to burn the rear tyre. All in we missed the money shot picture. A bit later, we wouldn't miss the next elephant pictures. We were looking at the bull and got amazing pics. We shut down the engine not to diturb him but I can guarantee you we know exactly how to start the bikes quickly. Abri left the car to take the pics but not too far and ready to run.

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Later we saw a whole bunch crossing the road a few hundred meters away. Hennie shouted "quick boys" so we gave gaz up to 150km/h and saw them very well but arrived too late for an ideal pic.

We arrived at the Zimbabwean border. We knew it was a quite border going in a national park. But we didn't know how the road would look like, neither do we for the next days. Everyone at the border on the Botswana side told us it wouldn't be a good idea. They showed us the border registration book showing only 4x4 were going. In the dry season it would be doable but it had rained the day before and the last 4x4 got stuck.

The more people said it was not possible, the more I left my quote "fuck the adventure" behind and wanted to go for it. I could easily feel my friends thoughts too. Abri was a definitely no go as he drives the car which is not a 4x4 and which is very low to the ground due to all the thinks we have in the car. He was keen to take the tar road and go for another border. Hennie and I shared the same thought. So we decided to throw the coin to the best of three tries. The HK dollar coin said twice no, and there was no need to theow it a third time. I was still in for it and said to Hennie, fuck the coin, let's go for it. I could see by his smile that he was a 100% with me.

Then we asked another guy from the Zimbabwean side how the road looked like and he said that it was shit for 8km and then better. It's the kind of situation when you asked the same question to everyone until you get the answer that suits your will.

So off we went and had to get into Zimbabwe. It took Hennie an hour of discussion, a couple of beers and a lot of negociation to get us through with one third of the price asked first. There we were, off in the bush passing a board indicating the safari area. The bikers were exited and Abri, whose smile had disapear for a long time, was livid.
We were told there were lions in this reserve. So Hennie was riding in front. The first thing we saw was a girafe skull. The tone was set.

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After 1km, in the second muddy part the car got stuck. The words that were then pronounced can't be written down. The bikes were through. So we stopped all three of us and it took us 1h30min with the jack, the spade, many stones and a lot of sweat to get the car on solid ground. Abri was supsisiously clean. Indeed you don't get very dirty from calling for help :) Just pulling his led here as his role is not always the nicest: taking pictures, going through difficult road and being in charge everyday of the unpacking and packing of the car.
We temporarly forgot about lions while trying to free the car.

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We carried on me upfront this time, saw a lot of game, like baboons that terribly look like lions from far, kudus, plenty of crowned headed guinewfowl, waterboks and all kind of boks. Hennie was guiding the car, I was in front trying to read the holes, not be in the way so Abri could keep momentum, and not be to far in case I'd have an unfortunate encounter if you see what I mean.

At the top of a small hill with difficult rocky raod, we saw buffalos. We unfortunately split the herd on both sides of the road and had therefore to be extra careful. Nevertheless we stopped the engines to enjoy the sight. At that very same moment, a car which I took for a game drive car with tourists, arrived. They stopped and started to talk to me. I clearly noticed it was the police and told them naively we were surrounded by buffalos. Hennie got that it was the police and, as we avoid contacts with them, he kept on shouting through the radio "go Fabian, go". My helmet was screaming and I had all the reasons to obey, except the 3 guys at the back with their AK47 Hennie, hadn't seen, who were very clearly not happy for me to move. Now the choice between Hennie's orders and 3 AK47 was quickly made. I didn't move and they started to ask us questions. They let us go but not without telling us that bikers were not allowed in the parc. We then asked if there were lions in the park as everyone told us. They answered positively, stating that it was the exact reason why bikers were not allowed. They also added that the lions were always following the buffalos. At least it was clear...

We carried on and didn't hear Avri much except for directions. Hennie and I were absolutely chuffed about the ride. The scenery was magic going on this road, through the bushed, watching the animals and reacting to every smell that could indicate a presence. An eagle took off just in front of Hennie's front wheel which reminded me of the smaller bird that crashed dead on his helmet on the first day on the South African highway.

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The second part of the drive was quicker on better, yet floaty, dirt roads. It was not Abri's day. I fell for him in the bukky on these roads. For us it was fantastic, the vegetation, the animals, the road, the sun setting down in our backs lighting up our faces in the mirrors. I was quite happy we made it through the park before dark. We were on the tar again in the dark. My eyes we tired because of the sun and the dust.

We had another 50km to do to get to the victoria falls, which we did our warning lights on, to reckognize eachother and as if we were escorting a vip, which we did in the person of Abri. We saw a Lepard crossing the road. As we were riding and driving towards the Vic falls, we saw beautiful lightnings in the far. Approaching the town, we slowed down as people were driving really bad and there were loads of people walking on the road.

We arrived at the lodge and went straight to the bar and the pool. Hennie went in with all his clothes, I went half dressed. This had two benefits: we cooled down after a very hot sunny day, especially trying to free the bukky, and our clothes were more or less washed.

After dinner, we then went to unpack the car and in order to finalize his bad day, Abri broke one the car's windows. That gave us one of these opportunities to end up the day with a general laugh, eventhough we were certainly not sure whether it was because it was funny or just faith. We were all tired and the only way close the chapter was to order two wiskies each just before the bar closed and share the experience of the day.

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DAY 15

This morning (15 Nov) we had breakfast and bought Zimbabwean dollars which made the three of us billionaires in dollars, eventhough these are Zimbabwean dollars. Being billionaires made our day.

We left for the Vic falls after breakfast. I went with Abri to take some pictures. It is said that they are rather dry at this time of the year but I can't imagine how strong the current, falls and created mist are when it is not "dry". Obviously we had to pay to get in the park and approach the falls. As usual, europeans pay more than south africans. Anyways, it was a pleasant walk on the opposite side of the falls. The mist created by the falls, came back all the way up above the edge of the cliff. The park is full of monkeys and boks peacefuly walking around.

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Talking about monkeys, after 15 days and 4500km, I wouln't mind a softer saddle ;-). Also, the left side of my hip has been painfull for the last couple of days. I think it's from lifting the bike from left to right when on the side stand 20times a day.

In the meantime, while we were at the Vic falls, Hennie stayed to watch the vehicles and all our belongings, while harrased by all the official and less official souvenir sellers. It was annoying and reminded me of Tangiers and all the people harrassing me when I put my first foot in Africa back in 1999.

We then left for the border Zambian border which was less than 100m away. With a bit of hassle and a couple of beers, we left Zimbabwe. In one way or another we had a Zambian "official" getting into the car to "help" us get through the border. To get there we had to cross a one way bridge which was a perfect opportunity for a picture, so we tried to stop. It was too difficult so we carried on. At the end of the bridge, we were asked for our passports by a very agressive police agent. He explained us that we were not allowed to stop on the bridge as "apparently" clearly stated on both sides and that we just commited an offence according to the Zambian law. So "he would bring us to the police station or what do we do...". When he asked what was on for lunch we understood we were in for another bride. 5USD lighter, we arrived at the Zambian border and we understood the guy in our car was from a "clearance" company. When he said he would get us through for 500USD, we understood quickly this wasn't gonna happen. We then decided to get it done ouselves despite the harrassement. Abri and I kept the guy busy while Hennie started the process which would last for 2h30... These clearance agents are officials but not requested. It doesn't seem they would accelerate things unless you have a truck with plenty to declare. So we were going from one counter to the other with 20 clearance agents sitting and watching behind us. It all lasted for 2h30...

Carbon tax, visa (50USD for me, nothing for SA), entry fee for persons and vehicle and in total a pile of docs to fill in had to be dealt with. A 150USD lighter (still better than 500USD, we FINALLY managed to get through. But were then arrested at the exit gate because had insurance, but not the yellow one, obviously... So that would have been another 90USD and God knows how much of that into the guards pocked. We had to park after the gate. After a bit of talking, being behind the gate (as in already in Zambia) and having our stamp, we decided to leave despite all bullshit recommendations. We had a very uncomfortable feeling about the country. We clearly got that in Zambia the National sports isn't football nor rugby but BRIBERY. This is the most corrupt country I've ever been into.

We were not happy as we didn't feel welcome at all and had to pay lots for only 150km in the country as we would exit into Namibia a bit later.

We went through a first border
In the meantime, throughout all this discussions and payments, Hennie ended up with a bank note of 100 trillions Zimbabwean dollars. He had jumped to a higher club, we were billionaires, he was a trillionaire. He made us feel like lower class people. I must say, money has changed him :)

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Bliksem, ek love die trip ou Hennie!  Kan nie wag vir nog nie!  8)
 
HP Keep it coming , I retire in a couple of months , watch this space  :thumleft:
 
Day 16:

You understood that yesterday was a less usual day. TIA (this is africa) in a different way. Nevertheless the mood hasn't been bad at any stage which is great as we have been 15 days together. We believe that getting through difficulties and haven't been arguing at all yet is amazing considering we are tired. We think it will stay that way.

We stayed in Katimo with great people and had a fantastic braai:

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The road today was full of promises as we left Katima for Divundu through a Namibian National Park in the Caprivi strip along and between Angola and Botswana. We first had to get through a Vet border and again desinfect boots and tyres to avoid spreading sicknesses from cattle to game. It was 36-37 degrees on a straight road that turned out to be boring. We stopped a couple of times to rest. One of the stops was by a school but the kids were too afraid to come any closer than 40m.

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We decided to accelerate and give it a push to arrive early after having been unsuccessfuly looking left and right to spot elephants for most of the road.

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At 130km/h I suddenly spotted a grey elephant standing 2m off the road as I was passing by. We turned around to check him out and turned back toward our destination before stopping 5m away from him to try and get the money shot. I was always engine off but ready to go, first gear and the right fingers on every button to dash as soon as I could if needed. Hennie took a chance to get off the bike while the animal looked away for a better pose. We had him to check us out and get an nice imposing pose with his big ears wide open. We then had our pics due to Abri and decided not to push our chances any further.

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Arriving passed Divundu, we checked out the a lodge at the disappointing poppa falls after having seen the Vic falls.

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We then went to our planned camp. Hennie, knew, but hadn't told me anything on purpose. He was laughing in his beard. Indeed, there was 4km of deep sand and after handling it perfectly for 1.5km standing on the bike, I fell like a stone flat in the sand. Abri was not yet in sight so I tried to lift the bike myself before he could take any pictures. When he arrived camera in hands I left the bike avoiding to be on the picture. Standing back up, the confidence was gone. A second massive patch and I was down again.

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By then I was sweating big time. It was hot and I was tired, very tired. I managed most of the rest until we arrived at the a board stating "all 4x4 should engage 4x4, deflate tyres, engage lower gear; all bukkys drive normally". There is was a way for 4x4, a way for 2x4. Hennie asked me which way. I thought he was challenging me again. Naturally, I said 4x4 but he meant the way for him and had a very hard surprise when he understood I also was in the 4x4 path. I was tuck again and he took it out, me pushing behing. The lesson is with no appeal the gsa doesn't go where the off road harley is flying. We finally arrived at the lodge.

The place is fantastic, along the Okavango river. This is the only river in the river that doesn't flow to the sea but it goes directly into the delta. Our tents are set up, the fire is beautiful, we saw and still hear the hippos. Hopefully the night will be quiet as the hippos were in the camp last night. These animals are agressive and make more human casualties that any other predator. Everyday is different, every day is exiting.

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We have discussed the next steps and are making making changes to our way down to see more different things. It's an adventure for the three of us and our next stop is definitely Etosha.


 
:thumleft:

Awsome report!! Keep up the good work!
 
Hennie, daai foto van jou Harley met die Olifant is  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:

 
Day 17:

Last evening was a bit special. We try to leave the phones on the side but one of us couldn't reach his wife (not me obviously :) ) and that was getting worrying. Anyways it ended all well and we went to bed. I didn't sleep well with all the noises. I woke up at night and heard an animal moving things around the kitchen and opening a crate. These boxes in which we pack everything are 50 to 60cm high so I knew it wasn't something small. After 30-45min Hennie woke up too and we discovered it was just a bloody dog. We were all very tired this morning.

During breakfast, we saw a massive 1m50 likewaan, the same animal I talked about earlier that was on the catfish in the orange river. I also surprised a 75cm green snake that we believe is a boomslang, hopefully not a green mamba.

We actually decided to leave last night place despite the 2 night intended stay. The place was lovely with external bathroom overlooking the river, caged swimming pool in the river to avoid hippos and crocs, nice deco, etc. Nevertheless the place is run by 4 young arrongant idiots who were not welcoming at all. This ruins all the magic of the place.

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We left after a long breakfast for long straigth roads. But we had first to go through that 4km of thick sand. No falls, lots of concentration and sweat. I fell like a bodybuilder afterthat having had to compensate for my front wheel going all directions as soon as it deepened in the sand. For the rest, the majority of the activity consists of greeting (school)kids, avoiding cattle and getting lost in our thoughts; and for Abri, it was a new opportunity to be on the phone ;-). Therefore the day was a bit unusual and the radio wasn't used much. We only stopped every 75km on average and in Rundu to refill. We also saw 2 vultures on a dead tree and a breed of donkeys mixed with zebras. Today we broke the 5000km mark and have now done exactly 5,100km. We are for the first time heading south. The temp went down from 36 to 26.5 degrees as we were very close to a storm. That is the amazing thing in Africa, unlike Europe where it's either sunny or raining everywhere, it can be blue sky in one place and pouring with rain a few km further. Today we were lucky again and had few if no rain at all.

Along the road people sell oranges and wood unlike in Zambia where only coal was sold by the villagers along the road.

We have now arrived at a campside, just after a vet border, on our way to Etosha. This will be the highlight of the trip in terms of game and plan a promising game drive. I also look forward to a day of rest as I can feel my body is shutting down. The ride and the heat have taken their toll.

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At the campside, we have our ritual as soon as we arrive. I go on the side as soon as Hennie and Abri open the backdoor of the bukky. As usual they have a 5 to 10min brainstorming session in Afrikaans about what and how to unpack. It's funny. Once I see they reach a sort of consensus and put a first hand on a crate, I join to help unpack.

Tonight is chicken pooitje and an early night (9pm) as, not only we are in the process of deciding where to settle around Etosha National Park to have reasonnable km to ride per day and to have a good spot to see as much as we can of the park, but also because there are more things flying around than there are stars in the sky.
 
Day 18:

We stood up at 6am after a good night sleep. We had a quick breakfast and packed everything. Just before 8am, we left for beautiful hilly landscape.

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The road was along the bush fields (brousse) and we had to watch for animals. We saw kudus, ostriches, lots of crownheaded guinea fowls and some warthogs. I loved the riding today. We had our longest riding non stop today but also our quickest stop. Indeed we parked close to a police car and as soon as the cop started to ask for water, cool drinks etc we decided to get moving. He also asked how the "money" was and then pretended he said "morning". Off we went, away from the potential troubles.

Today my hip is very sore. I have a sharp pain on the left (groin) that becomes a problem whenever I get on, and even worse when I get off, the bike. It is more confortable being on the bike than walking at this stage.

I would have loved to do the dirt road that would have shorten the ride a bit but it had been raining in the morning. Given the numerous waterholes around we knew though that these 130km could have turned to become a nightmare and we wanted to arrive as early as possible. The riding conditions were excellent with  an overcast 25degrees. 100km before the lodge, the clouds made room for a sunny sky and we were welcome by a 32degrees blue sky.

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So, we have arrived at a stunning lodge between Outjo and the Etosha national park just before 2pm after an intense day of riding (475km). We treat ourselves with some well deserved luxury. We have now 5,575km under the belt. We are looking forward to a day of rest and game drive in Etosha.

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The rooms are really nice. Nevertheless, right after a welcome tea, we went straight to one of the pools that overlooks the bush. I had a divine nap while the others orgabized a full day game drive in Etosha. We'll take off just after breakfast that is planned at 6am. We are now going to prepare the pictures for a next update. Not too sure when we'll have wifi next to upload them though. Tonight we'll have dinner at the restaurant and most probably an early night.

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Fantastico! Hennie can't go wrong coming over to the "dark side" of Nikon! Amazing trip and beautiful photo's! So nice to see a Harley full of dust & mud!
 
Day 19:

After a good night sleep in a large confortable bed in the aircon, we woke up at 6am. We then had breakfast before leaving for the Etosha national park.

The Etosha national park is a park around the Etosha pan. It's like a massive dried up lake that is filled during the rainy season. As the rainy seasons is about to start, we saw the pan completely dried up. Around the pan, the lanscape is greenish sometimes, yellow most of the time and could be pretty called the savana.

Today was a pictures day. We took hundreds ! We obviously saw hundreds of boks (most common being impalas, sprinkbok - gazelles, gemsbok - orix), some chacals, a dozen of girafes eating or drinking, hundreds of zebras and close to a hundred wildebees (gnous). We saw and photographed a couple of nice birds including preybirds like falcons and eagles. We saw 2 rhinos, a white one and a black one from about 50m. For a long time, we observed a rhino which seemed to want to cross the road. After 15min, he made a move and we had that black rhino 15m in front of us.

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We didn't see any elephants as they move up west or north when the rainy season start. The sky was beautiful, blue with beautiful clouds.

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We were the three of us on an open game drive car and stopped for lunch along the pan. We fell like russian millionaire as we had our driver setting up a whole delicious lunch with wine and champagne while the other people in their private cars or overlander trucks not only were packed in there like sardines, but were eating whatever it was from brown paper bags.

The highlight of the day was obviously to see all these animals in the wild, drinking at waterholes and playfighting. Nevertheless the most amazing moment was when we saw lions stalking. 2 lionesses were on the lookout and observing boks 25m away from us. I had seen lions before but not in clear daylight and in activity. We saw another couple of lions mating. The lion was magnificent and huge. These were less than 5m away from us. On our way back we saw another female lion.

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On the way back, we were blessed by a magnificent sunset over the trees, one of those only Africa can offer you, one of those of which we took pictures of but yet had to give up on trying to translate it into a picture. That is how beautiful it was.

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Tonight we are sitting at the bar and will have an early night and wake up at 5am and, in a changed planned compared to previously announced, we try to shoot 800km downwards to get back towards the south african west coast. The trip has been so amazing that Hennie plans a couple of highlights towards the end.

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