A PIECE of PONDOLAND

[wildside]

This is also the vicinity of the final resting place of the East India merchant ship, the Grosvenor that ran aground in August 1782, en route to England from Ceylon. Story has it that it carried a fortune in diamonds and gems and this encouraged the development of the tunnel from the shore out into the ocean but this was unsuccessful. The winch that was originally used to help create this tunnel has also since disappeared.
I wish we had had enough time to visit this sight but it looked as if the weather was changing so after a quick cup of coffee and a chat we set off back to the main road. Within a few minutes of being on the track I lost control of my front wheel as it dug into the deep sandy edge and I ended up on my side. Kingsley had to leave the track to turn around and he got bogged down in some mud. Our friend saw the dilemma we were in and walked up the drive to help me pick up my bike.  It was here that I decided on giving Msikaba a miss....I was tired and we still had about 35 km of Pondoland distance to do...with more 4x4 track thrown in. It was necessary to double back about 20km to the Luphatana turnoff and then another 15 km’s to the camp.  I just wanted to get to our camp and settle down....and just as well we made that decision.

There was some lovely scenery of the sweeping grasslands as we dropped down from the hills and headed towards the coast.



The road was fine until we reached the 4x4 track which also was a bit of a challenge for me in places as we approached the coast. At this stage the wind started blowing stronger and it got colder as the thick grey clouds gathered together. We followed the grass track past the cottages down towards the river as this was where we had to park our bikes and walk , with all our luggage, across to the Drifters Luphutana Trail Camp. Speed was of essence at this stage as we could see this weather brewing into something nasty.








On arrival at the parking area we saw two BMW 1200’s. For some weird reason this gave me a bit of confidence and reassurance in what we were doing ( we weren’t the only idiots doing this ride!!).  We promptly started to remove our luggage and ensure that we had all our belongings, keys, helmets etc. We were reassured that there was a guard on duty at night. Now Kingsley is a chronic asthmatic and battles to breath when exerting himself. Fortunately Frank, the temporary camp supervisor came across the river to help us as well as one of the other guys belonging to the BMW. By now the thunder was rumbling and we had to negotiate crossing this river in a specific way which meant walking upstream a bit and then clamouring over numerous rocks through calf deep water downstream, the whole time being cautious in our chunky riding boots so as to not slip into the water with arms full of luggage.





It was at this stage the clap of thunder and bolt of lightning lashed out over our heads encouraging us to move even faster. Kingsley’s compromised lungs had now restricted even more with the pressure of rushing and he promptly sat down in the middle of the river as the heavens opened to try and recover. We continued (leaving him behind), in the pouring rain, to scramble across the rest of the river, over the slippery rocks on the other side, through the dense bush and finally onto the sheltered deck of the camps dining/kitchen area.





After waiting a short while Kingsley finally arrived as wet as a drowned rat. We all sat around introducing ourselves, laughing and chatting before been shown to our tent tucked away in the bushes.
We had our own clean bathroom on the end of the tent which was so divine. A hot shower and dry comfy clothes cheered us up and after sorting ourselves out we went back to the dining area to relax and recover.




A poor quality picture trying to capture the full moon and crashing waves across the river

 

[MRK Miller]

Awesome, what more can one say. Thanks a mil for sharing. Eagerly awaitng the rest :drif: :drif:

 

[wildside]

Day 5:
Rest Day  - Waterfall Bluff

It was such a treat waking up late and having a relaxing start to the day. It rained most of the night and the day was cool and overcast. Sitting around the table at breakfast made for interesting talk as us four riders showed concern about getting out of this area the following morning. That black sand would have turned into a messy sludge and we had to chuckle as the BMW boys were making all sorts of plans on how to get out.
These guys, Mark and Patrick were so entertaining with all their stories and provided us with many laughs and were awesome company. We were fortunate to have such great and like-minded people in the camp along with another couple of hikers, Alan and Lisa, who were also such interesting people.

Now Frank, who was looking after the camp, was also a fascinating fellow.  He had left his home a few months ago to walk south along the coastline, from somewhere up the North coast, and had adopted two lovely pooches in Port Shepstone to keep him company. He’s started a Facebook page called ‘Dead man walking SA’ (in case anyone is interesting in following him) and is relying on the generosity of the readers to financially assist him and these lovely dogs,  who are equipped with their own backpacks and carry their own food and water. Travel and adventure certainly broadens ones horizons and puts one in touch with fascinating and interesting people.

We had set aside today to take a 5km walk south along the coastline to see the spectacular Waterfall Bluff.  It’s one of only 19 waterfalls in the world that falls directly into the sea. It can only be reached on foot. It’s a pleasant and easy walk with the flat ledges running out into the ocean.















We met up with Mark and Patrick en route and continued on together.
Frank had told us about a cave just before the waterfall and if you don’t know about it you will never find it. Where the path starts taking you up a small incline is the point where you climb down the rocks onto the lower ledges and continue walking alongside the cliff face past lovely rock pools. We were fascinated by the different rock strata and formations on the cliff. It wasn’t long and we soon found the entrance to the most amazing coastal cave I had ever seen. Half of it held some water and the other half which was a higher ledge was dry. To one side was a pillar of rock that was supporting the roof of the cave. It was quite amazing looking out from this cave into the ocean. So few people know of this cave and I tried to ‘google’ some information about it but I couldn’t find any.

 

[wildside]

The best way to see the waterfall is to take the pathway down to the bottom of the falls. On heading back from the cave we somehow missed this path and ended up near the top of the falls and only once we saw other people coming up from the falls did we find the pathway. So it’s not a very obvious route. You actually end up walking over the top of the cave and look out for a pile of stones which seem to indicate the pathway down to the falls.
It was lovely and easy walking down to the falls and the path we took required us to scramble over some rocks but there are a few pathways if you need to find an easier way down.













Seeing the waterfall in all its glory was a great moment for me. For years I had wanted to see these falls but never thought it possible and here I was admiring this spectacular natural wonder. This is where the Mlambomkulu river runs straight over the cliff face and plummets 93m into the sea. What a beautiful sight!

 

[wildside]

A few kilometres south of here you will find another one of the 19 waterfalls which also falls directly into the ocean. This is the Mfihlelo Falls (60 m), often referred to as ‘Secret Falls’. I would have loved to have been able to see these as well.


The rest of the day we relaxed around the camp and I wanted to cross over the river to visit the ledges on the other side but the tide was up and I was in no mood to wade across and get wet.












Luphutana Camp


Franks Pooches

This establishment is self catering but Frank made us all some lovely ‘styve pap’ (a very thick sticky mielie meal porridge) and we supplied the ingredients for a tomato and onion salsa. I was most impressed with the BMW guys....they had arrived with a small packet of bricketts, firelighters and a cooler bag containing thick rump steak and wors which they prepared on the braai. It smelt so delicious. They had also gone to the trouble of bringing eggs, which actually survived the ride. Now that’s travelling in style.

 

[LRFan]

Very nice report and area, must make some time to go and visit that area.

 

[kevin]

Stunning pics - beautiful part of our country

 

[sidetrack]

Fantastic report and riding  :ricky:

 

[wildside]

Day 6:
Luphutana  to Umtentweni

We had been a bit anxious about our departure today so decided to try and leave a bit earlier and shortly after 8.30 we said our farewells to Frank. Kingsley and I carried our luggage across the river once again. Fortunately the tide was out and there was no pressure to move quickly so crossing was fine. The BMW guys had already gapped it so we didn’t see them again. This was also a good sign as it meant the road out was not too bad.





In fact the road was just fine and we got out there with no hassles at all. The usual Transkei roadblock provided an opportunity for a quick photie and I could see that these cattle were well looked after and healthy beasts.



We decided to take the same route back. It was a lot easier this time as I was now familiar with this route and once again I could soak up all the beautiful scenery surrounding us. The only disappointing thing we experienced was that one of the little locals had thrown a stone at Kingsley, a big stone as well, but fortunately it only connected the fuel bladder hanging on the side of the bike. On one other occasion I saw a little guy picking up a stone as Kingsley passed by and I rode directly towards him which encouraged him to drop it quickly and prompted a brief wave instead.





But all told it was a good day’s ride and late that afternoon we found ‘The Spot’ backpackers in Umtentweni and were in time to enjoy some sundowners with a beautiful view of the sea.









Once again we took the same quiet route home and made a brief stop at ‘Chillers Pool’. It looked like a small spaza shop with a pool room and loud music in the back shelter. Kingsley asked for a coke and the guy behind the counter scratched around the shelf underneath and with a huge smile on his face, pulled out a small bag of ‘dope.’ Hahahaha....we enjoyed a jolly good laugh, declined the kind offer and head off on our way once again...still with no coke.







Shortly after Ixopo we turned off towards Hela Hela and rode down the stunning pass to cross the Mkomazi River.





After a brief rest at the picnic site we set off for Byrne Valley and this was where we had a brief encounter with ‘Ian the Tooth.’ Sorry Ian... we didn’t recognise you then.
The rest of the ride home was a pleasure. We were very fortunate to not have had any hassles with these bikes as both were bought unseen from forum members last year and this was our first adventure ride since we lost our last bikes in an accident.

 

[Klein Torkar]

Thank you for sharing, and adding another reason for going to the Transkei.