Day 24 28/12/2010 Narok------Nairobi in Kenia
The next day we left early as we still wanted to find accommodation in Nairobi and see if we can find a Yamaha dealer as Juan's bike is still running with the same clutch cable which was tied down with a piece of wire in Karema on Lake Tanganyika many moons ago. We did buy a look alike cable from a Chinese bike shop on the way but it was much thinner and had no adjustment on, so we were not sure if it would work if need be. We rode right through save for stopping at a lookout point to look at the Rift valley. Entering Nairobi from the west was quite an experience, along the road was some nurseries and instead of having them in an enclosed area the beautiful flowering plants was stacked next to the road for a couple kilometres. We set the tracks 4 Africa to look for accommodation and it picked up an Italian guest house. The area must be a rather upper class area as all the different embassies were in this area. We arrived at the gate but there were no sign to indicate that this was indeed a guest house. We asked the security guard at the gate next door and he said yes that was the correct place and we rang the bell. A young Italian lady came out. We asked her the rate for accommodation but it turned out a bit stiff for a bikers budged. We then negotiated a more reasonable rate and it turned out great value for money. The owner of the establishment was a lady in her 90’s and her daughter was also there from Italy and the lady who opened the gate was from Tanzania and she had her baby there as well. So it was 4 generations present from different parts of the world together for Christmas to New Year. We just off loaded the bikes and got directions from our host to the Yamaha dealer in town. Here we hit the real Nairobi traffic and I got a wake up call and a culture shock and a real African driving lesson all in one. Here we saw minibus taxi's like in Johannesburg for the first time on our trip. As all traffic approach a red robot they just cross it and if you dare stop they hoot at you and nearly ride over you. At a circle it is free for all. I eventually kept extreme left at the many circles and always ensured that there are a car to the right of me to take the impact if need be. The mini bus taxi drivers in Jhb seemed to be angels with white wings all of a sudden. We made it alive to the Yamaha dealer in the City Centre and the workshop manager was extremely helpful. Although they don't keep any spares for our bike they allowed me to service my own bike in the back yard. Fortunately I brought everything along from JHB. 4 Litre Yamaha Lube, air filter, oil filter and a spark plug. Juan in turn did not service his bike. As they shared the wash bay with Toyota next door they washed our bikes with soap and a high pressure machine free of charge. The show room and workshop was on par with any Yamaha dealer I have seen in JHB quite a contrast to their traffic. They only stock 125cc and 200cc Yamaha's and spares, the one is made under licence in India and the other one in China. They sell 500 of these a month and I don't think there is a dealer in the RSA that sells so many bikes a month. Even a spaza shop on the way to the Equator was selling 5 a month and I wondered why our local population don't buy these time saving light on fuel bikes. Do they know something that our local population don't know? After servicing my bike we went next door to a spares shop much like Midas in RSA but much bigger as it was 2 floors high and we bought some chain lube as we were using oil for the last 1000 km or so. After the shopping we ventured back in the chaos of peak hour traffic. The traffic was like Spaghetti and it almost felt safer as all the cars and minibus taxis were entangled and could not move. We managed to ride around on pavements and in between the vehicles in by now true African and Kenyan style. As far as we rode people would hang out of the taxis and shout Mzungu (white man in Swahili) in a friendly way. We again made it back alive to the guest house where our host had the dinner ready and as we chose to sit around the same table than the family and for the rest of the evening they told us their very interesting family history in Africa from before the Second World War to date.