Barberton - Cape Town and the wrong way home, my Epic Solo ride (Finally done)

[Chrissie B]

Nuwerus

 

[Chrissie B]

Once I was on the N7, the road was just one long, almost dead straight piece of tar!  Not very exciting actually, but it was something quite different to what I was used to.

Shortly after Bitterfontein I crossed over from Western Cape to Northern Cape.  Not that the landscape changed much, but now I was in Namaqualand.  It would have been really nice if it was the flower season, but at least I can now say I have been here, even without the Namaqualand Daisies.  :toothy4:

I decided to stop in Garies as someone told me there is a Hotel there with a bar that serves cold drinks.  I found the Hotel and had a quick drink before setting off on the road to nowhere.

There were some mountains in the distance, the Bokkeveldberge, never even heard of them before, but they added some variation to the otherwise pretty monotonic landscape.

 

[Chrissie B]

As I did so many times before on this trip, I was often engrossed in my own thoughts, and here even more so as there was not all that much to see.  I contemplated my life, what I was doing with it and how much of it I’d already wasted, how few placed I have actually been as I spent most of it trying to earn enough money to raise my kids!  Being a single mom for many years is not always an easy task, but somehow I made it!  They’re all grown up and I’m doing this fantastic ride!  A year ago I would never have imagined that I would be doing this, my life was in shambles and I had no idea what path I was going to get onto next.

Riding a motorcycle around the country alone is absolutely one of the greatest, but also one of the loneliest undertakings I have ever completed, but it has also taught me so much about so many things, including what I am capable of.
 
I stopped for some photos now and then, when I saw something worth capturing.  There were of course the obligatory sheep but not much else!  There was a rather interesting gravel/sand road which followed the N7 a lot of the way and had entry/exit points to the main road, so I often contemplated giving it a try.  But in the end I decided to give it a miss, as with my luck it would probably end up turning into the opposite direction at some stage and lead me astray again.  Maybe in a group I would have considered it.

I think it was on this stretch of road where I had my first “oh sh!t” moment!  ??? :mumum:
I was cruising along, alone with my thoughts, the road was quite empty, only now and then I’d have to pass a car or slow moving truck, but nothing really exciting.  I saw a truck coming towards me, but thought nothing of it, until to my horror, a car came out from behind the truck and attempted to overtake it!

WTH!!!  Can’t he see me coming from the other side!  The Twin’s lights are very bright, much better than most of the other bikes!  But he kept coming and I kept getting closer.  And instead of either getting back in behind, or speeding up to get past, the ***** stayed next to the truck!  I was too close and also going too fast to try to pull off the road, the side strip was uneven and the drop too high to chance it.  I only had one choice, to go as close as possible to the edge of the road, pray the truck does the same and hope the ***** in the car manages to stay in the middle without touching either of us, never mind my bike was so darn wide with the luggage on!
 
Well, since I’m still here to tell the story, he obviously managed to do this.  We all passed each other simultaneously without incident.  But I was livid!  :cussing: If I had a faster bike, more time and a weapon, I would have turned around to follow him and given him hell.  But instead I took a deep breath and eventually got back into my groove. 

 

[Chrissie B]

Just before Springbok the landscape changed again as I approached Burke’s Pass.  They call it a pass but it was not like the passes in the Lowveld or the Eastern Cape.  But it was a nice change from the dead straight road.   :thumleft:

The vegetation was interesting, very different from the Lowveld or Gauteng!

 

[Chrissie B]

As I rode into the outskirts of Springbok I was quite taken aback, it was nothing like I expected!  I had somehow pictured it as this forlorn plattelandse dorpie, but instead I arrived at a rather clean, pretty town surrounded by rocky hills.  Nice, I like this place already! 

So I set about looking for the Springbok Café, which TGG had mentioned.  They apparently have well priced accommodation, so it seemed like a good choice.
But before I stopped, I took a quick tour through the town and did some sight-seeing.  But eventually I decided I’d better get my bed organized.  The Springbok Café is a bit of a peculiar place!  There is a café with the normal sweets, chips and cold drinks, a book shop with all sorts of interesting reading material, a semi-precious stones shop and a fully licensed restaurant.  Yes, this will do! 

I organized my accommodation, which consisted of an en-suite room in one of the buildings across the road.  It seems all the yellow and white buildings are part of this slightly unusual Guesthouse set-up.  My abode happened to be right across the road from the church… good, then I would not have to go too far to take a photo. 

I had to take a photo of the Pathcare lab, as Pathcare is actually rather relevant to my trip and my story!  Wanita worked at Pathcare in Bethlehem, where we lived together in a house.  The she was homesick and got a transfer to CT.  So if she's tired of CT, then she can come to Springbok, they have a branch here too!!  :imaposer:

Springbok has a very interesting traffic circle with a huge rock inside, as well as plants, lights and decorations.  I liked that!  :biggrin:

(Distance from Vredendal to Springbok: +/- 290km)

 

[Chrissie B]

Once I had settled in and had a refreshing shower, I wandered down to the restaurant to have a bite to eat.  While I was there I also bought myself a 2nd hand book to read, although I was not really sure why I did that?
 
After strolling around town for a bit, it was time to think about some nourishment after a long day.  I ate a really good meal that evening for only R85.00!  They served a huge Schnitzel with baked potato, a side salad (that’s what they called it, for me it would have been a main meal!) and a serving of 3 different vegetables!  :snorting:

Wow, I really tried to eat it all, but in the end it was just way too much and I was feeling a bit like an elephant when I ambled back to my room to continue reading the book I started while eating my dinner.

 

[Chrissie B]

Well, the book turned out to be a rather silly thing to buy!  I should know myself by now, once I start reading I simply cannot put it down, and it was not even a particularly exciting book… just Danielle Steele and her usual somewhat predictable love stories, but the pre-loved book choices had not been that great.

So I read and I read and eventually long after midnight decided that I’d better get some sleep if I want to be on the road again in the morning.  The next two sections of my trip were going to take a bit longer than what I had done to date!    :-\

And as I was still busy with that thought, I had a better one, why not spend a day in Springbok, what’s the rush?  I only had to be back in Barberton on Friday, tomorrow was only Sunday, I had plenty of time to spare.  :laughing4:

 

[Chrissie B]

Staying put turned out to be a rather good idea, as I just could not get myself out of bed, especially with the drizzle of rain outside.  The rain; that was a bit strange, since some lady told me yesterday that it hardly ever rains this time of the year!  Well, this was a perfect book reading day.  I sauntered down to the Café, booked my room for another night and had a late breakfast, read my book, strolled around Springbok and for the first time this whole trip I just relaxed and did nothing in particular.  This was also the only day that I never rode my Broom at all, she was having a rest day too!
 
I cannot totally explain why I liked this little town so much, it just had such a peaceful air about it, it was relaxing to be there, the people were friendly and not being tourist season (thanks to the lack of Daisies) it was almost deserted.

Only much later on at night did my peace get disturbed!  I was just falling asleep when other residents staying in the building decided to have an argument, they were incredibly noisy and I could hear a woman shouting and yelling at a man, sounded like a marital tiff.  I tried to ignore it for a while, but she just didn’t stop!  And she had a horribly, high pitched, shrill voice, as many women of her kind do… I have a name for them, but don’t want to insult anyone here who might have a wife like that.  So I plugged in my little speaker and tried to play my music so I would not have to listen to the commotion.  But it didn't work, she just kept on and on and on.
 
Anyway, those of you that know me well, will also know that once I get pee’d off, I have one hell of a temper!  I couldn't hear the exact words, but I know she was screeching in Afrikaans, so eventually I’d had enough!  I stormed out of my room and banged on their door and told her in my best nasty Afrikaans to ‘shut the … up’.  She yelled back at me to mind my own business!  I didn't really know what to do… so we had some more heated words through the closed door and then she toned it down a little bit.  In the end my only solution to get some sleep was to stuff toilet paper in my ears.  Unfortunately I’d forgotten my earplugs at home.  I do try to remember to take them with me on long bike trips, now why didn't I take them with this time?  Darn it…

But finally I fell asleep and woke up at a reasonable time.  First I went down to the Café/Reception to advise them about the disturbance and the chap was rather surprised about this piece of information.  He said there was only supposed to be one older man in there, who was taking an early bus to somewhere, but he promised he would look into it.

I walked back to my room and started loading some of my things onto my bike, when I saw a man come out of the building, he went to get his car from the car park and proceeded to load baggage into it.  I just ignored him, I was actually in no mood to fight and just wanted to get my bike packed and go have breakfast.

But on my next trip to my room I could hear her again, going on and on.  But now the door was a little bit ajar, so I pushed it open and gave her hell!  They tried to slam the door in my face but I stopped it with my foot.  I told them in no uncertain terms that scum like them should be exterminated!  Finally they managed to close the door.

I finished packing quickly and rode my bike down to breakfast, I didn't want to chance leaving my Baby anywhere near these low life’s.  I informed the Reception that there was definitely a woman there and that they were still in the room.  I think the Oomie then sent someone up there to go and check.  But that this point I had lost interest and just wanted to finish my food and get on the road.

I went to fuel up the Broom and hit the road again.  Oh how nice and peaceful it was under my helmet!

I was now crossing the bottom bit of the Kalahari and the landscape changed once again.  The soil or sand was kind of reddish and there was very, very little vegetation.  I kinda liked it though, it was amazing to think that people actually survive here.  By now I was used to the heat, but I stopped a few times to drink water as I didn't want to dehydrate, but also take some pictures, especially of the rather interesting weaver bird nests.  Some of them really knew how to build a mansion, but the best one I only saw the following day! 

 

[Chrissie B]

From Springbok I started heading east on the N12, I was now facing towards home!  The end of my adventure was in sight and I wasn't sure whether to be sad or to be glad.  In a way I missed my bed, my room, my animals and my own things.  But I also didn't want this to end, there were so many more places I would love to go and see.    :3some:

At Pofadder Auto I fueled up again, although it really wasn't necessary yet.  But the distances were a bit longer and more awkward now, if I skip a fuel stop I might not quite make it to the next one, so I figured rather safe than sorry.

 

[Chrissie B]

The plan was to make a quick stop at Augrabies, to see what all the fuss is about.  I was told not to expect much water, as once again it was the wrong time of the year, but never mind, I still wanted to go and have a look. 

Augrabies/Kakamas was another place that took me a little by surprise!  :smileinbox: One minute there was pretty much nothing and the next I rode into what seemed like an Oasis!  The contrast was really amazing! 

They grow grapes here too, I actually never knew that!  And I never really bothered to find out much about this area, like a lot of people I know, I was under the impression that not much goes on here.  I suppose not much does, except around the banks of the Orange River.

 

[Chrissie B]

When I arrived at the falls, I saw a parking lot full of expensive cars.  I spotted mostly BMW's with German registration plates and fancy wrapping, as well as stickers advising: GOVERNMENT APPROVED HIGHSPEED SAFETY TEST!  :headbang:

Wow, what was going on here and why didn't anyone ask me to participate in this?  Hahaha…  :dontknow:

And indeed, there were a lot of my fellow countrymen milling around looking very officious.  I wanted to find out what they were doing, but somehow the few I approached were not very talkative, even in their own lingo!  Bloody Krauts!

 

[Chrissie B]

I swapped my boots for takkies, had a quick and rather expensive Smirnoff Storm, read the boards in front and then proceeded down the path to the waterfalls.
 

 

[Chrissie B]

I must say this place is very beautiful and even without too much water, the Augrabies Falls are still impressive.  I walked to all the different platforms and tried to picture what it was like when in flood?  That must be a sight to behold!  :hello2:

I think one day I will come back and spend a bit of time here.  But I am NOT eating at the restaurant!  I contemplated having lunch here, but after seeing the prices on the menu, I decided to rather stop in Kakamas to find a place to eat!

 

[Chrissie B]

I took a slow ride into Kakamas and decided to stop at the Roast Bistro next to the petrol station.  I know, not exactly gourmet food, but I needed nourishment and an ice cold lemonade.  :bar:

It’s a pity that I only found out when I got back, that one of my friends, Chris my kids ex- English teacher, had really moved there!  I remember him saying that he was going to do that, but no one actually believed him!  But apparently he is coming back to the Lowveld, Kakamas turns out to be a bit too isolated for his liking.  :imaposer:

From Kakamas I made my way through Keimoes towards Upington.  It was scorching hot and I couldn't wait to get out of all these clothes.  I was also in no mood to stop and take pictures, when standing still my aircon was turned off!  :

 

[Chrissie B]

Somewhere along the line, I think it was before Upington, there were some road works and stop n go’s, but for the life of me I really can’t recall exactly where that was?  But that is where I had my next WTH moment!!  :cussing:
 
Now I have passed through many stop ‘n go’s on this trip and over the last few years, but so far I have never had any bad incidents.  But like with everything, there could always be a first!  I usually make my way right to the front so I don’t have to sit behind the traffic.  I don’t do what some bikers do and go while there is still oncoming traffic, which would be just suicidal.  

So I waited patiently and eventually the stop turned to go, she moved the barrier and off we all went, me and a queue of cars and trucks.  But to my complete disbelief, just a little way down the road I spotted traffic heading straight at us from the other side.  The young girl in the City Golf behind me saw it too, I saw her terrified face in my rear-view mirror!  Initially I thought of going on to the unfinished side on the right, but it looked very unappealing, it was very rough and I also doubted that the cars behind me could fit there.
 
So I watched the traffic from the front and proceeded to go forward carefully, looking out for a suitable spot where me and my followers could pull over to let the danger pass!  Fortunately I found a large enough space just before the other vehicles had reached us!  They looked just as confused, I guess they weren’t expecting us any more than we were expecting them!  So I waited until I was sure there were no more surprises and then I waved to the rest of the entourage to follow me.  :thumleft:
 
I am not sure what I was expecting in Upington, but it’s a fairly large place that I could get lost in!  Now how was I supposed to find accommodation here?  I tried to find one of those ‘I’ for Information Centre signs, but no luck!  I did however manage to find the Dros, so I thought that’s as good a place as any to figure out what to do next.

:bar: After having my now almost compulsory Smirnoff Storm, I started Google’ling.  I also asked the nice young waitress for assistance, which she very happily did.  But all the places I phoned were either full or hopelessly too expensive for my now almost depleted budget!  I even went onto WD’s again and was given the suggestion to contact Pepe.  I sent him a PM, but not everyone reads their messages as quickly as I do!
 
Eventually one of the Guesthouses gave me a number for another place that might be cheaper and have space.  And finally I had secured my bed for the night.  It was still not really cheap, but a bit better than the others.  And lucky for me it was not too far from where I was and as an added bonus it was on the Orange River.

When I arrived there the Tannie was all ready for me and ever so helpful.  She proceeded to clean up all my bags, brought me a towel to the swimming pool and generally faffed around me.  She was very sweet, but I wished she’d just ease off and let me get some rest.  Eventually she disappeared to her room and I could relax properly, have a nice bath (no shower here) and then, for the first time on this trip I watched some TV (although I did have some literature on my bedside table) until I dozed off.  :sleepy2:

Oh yes, almost forgot, as I was getting settled in, Pepe phoned… ah well, a bit late.  But we chatted and agreed it was a pity we would not get to meet.  

(Distance from Springbok to Upington, via Augrabies: 445km)

 

[Chrissie B]

The following morning I loaded up my Broom again and headed off to the Pick n Pay to get some provisions for the road.  And as it often happened, all sorts of people came to chat to me.  Asking about the bike, the lack of a ‘husband’ to accompany me, where am I from, where am I going… blah, blah, blah.  :mblah05:
 
So I was not surprised to see yet another chap approach me as I finished parking the bike.  But this one knew my name!  Oh boy, surely I can’t be that infamous?  It was Pepe, he was also on his way to the shop and when he saw my bike he immediately recognized it (oh duh, who can miss the ‘Fuchsia’ trim). 

So we did get to meet up and chat for a little while after all.  ;D But sadly I had to hurry on, this was the longest stretch and I was now seriously running late and I hadn't even gone into the shop yet! 

In due course I was back on the road again, now heading towards my old home town, Lichtenburg.  I lived there for 3 years, went to school there in Std 4, 5 and 6.  I wanted to go and have a look if I would still remember where I lived and where the schools were. 

The road was fairly monotonous most of the time, but it was here that I found the weaver nest to top all weaver nests, this one was a work of art, great architecture.  I also spotted some camels in the desert; well, sort of a desert, but they were real camels!  I only managed to take a pic of one lonely one, as I couldn't stop where I’d seen a whole herd of them.

 

[Chrissie B]

I passed through Olifantshoek and other funny little settlements and then Kuruman.  That’s when I knew my holiday was almost over, I was suddenly back in territory that I was more familiar with, and not in a good way!

Where the all the ‘Capes’ and even FS had been clean, the roads reasonably good (other than stop ‘n go’s, good sign, at least they are fixing) and the towns were mostly quite pretty, Kuruman was a dump, the roads got worse and the population looked grumpy and unfriendly, sometimes almost threatening.  

The only nice sight was the glimpse of bushveld I saw just before the mielie fields started.  

 

[Chrissie B]

Vryburg, Delareyville and Sannieshof followed along the same lines and eventually I was at Biesiesvlei, which is where I would phone ZAR to get directions on how to get to his place, as I was spending the night there.

I had been trying for days to get hold of Slakkie in Coligny, but I finally only managed to speak to him earlier in the day.  He’s always complaining that no one comes to visit him and when I do, he’s out of town.  He contacted ZAR/aka Etienne and arranged a bed for me at his place, just outside Lichtenburg.

 

[Chrissie B]

Etienne gave me directions and said they would be leaving work soon too, and I’m to meet them at their plot.  But true to form, I got lost again, well not lost exactly, I just couldn't find the gravel road to their place.  So I called from just outside town and he told me to wait there, they were on their way and then I can just follow them home.  Cool, that worked for me.   :thumleft:  I was totally exhausted by then and just wanted to get out of my kit.  

I got introduced to the whole family including the biggest dogs I have ever seen!  But since I have such a bad memory for names, I promptly forgot them all again.  Thank you all for your hospitality and a lovely dinner.   ;D

And once again I didn't think to take any photo's, I think ZAR and I were yapping too much!

(Distance from Upington to Lichtenburg: 620km)

 

[Chrissie B]

ZAR took his V-Strom to work in the morning, to keep me company riding the few kilos into Lichtenburg, where I went on a little exploration mission.  With some directions from Etienne I did find my old High School, Lichtenburg Hoerskool.  I rode in through the gates and had a bit of a look around.  Unfortunately the gate to the school buildings was locked, so I couldn't go in there.  I wonder if it’s to keep the teenagers in or keep the bad elements out?  There were some youngsters on the sports field and I could see them eyeing out the Broom with some interest.

I also went in search of the Primary School, but when I didn't find it, I decided to go down to the lake and see if I can figure out which house my best friend Stella lived in.  I think I found it, but was not 100% sure, it was so long ago! 

Next I made my way to the other side of town, past the two lakes to hunt down our old house.  And I found it!  It still looks pretty much the same, except that they have turned the garage into a room.  I was busy taking photos when an old Oomie came out to inquire what I was up to. 

So I explained to him (in Afrikaans), that I used to live in that house.  He asked me my surname and he got ever so excited when he found out that he in fact bought the house from my parents!  He says he remembers them well and was quite sad to hear that they both passed away a number of years ago.  We talked for a while and then he let me have a look around the backyard, I remembered all those trees well, they were just much bigger now!

Before leaving, I rode down to the lake where I used to catch little fish and bring them home in a bucket.  But since we were not actually going to eat them, I would let them swim around the bath tub for a while and then I would take them back to the lake and set them free.  :lol8: