Four Frozen Foreskins do Lesotho 2014

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The icy wind was gusting outside and we still had a long way to go to Katse. We promptly hit the road without a clue of what to expect, would there be snow? Rain? Mud?
The first stretch of road is a major construction zone, I would say for close on 60km, everywhere you look, is construction vehicles, blasting zones, Chinese wheel barrows (Those were interesting), Chinese workers and Chinese trucks going about the task of tarring the roads headed inland.  We were stopped at one stage while they loaded a truck with rocks to clear the road.

 
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The final bit of roadwork’s we encountered was a massive over pass bridge that is being built, dwarfing the old little concrete bridge below, after that it became plain old untouched dirt roads, through rural villages and over mountain passes. Winding along the Linakeng River. I had 2 near misses along this section with oncoming cars around blind corners, The roads are narrow and you don’t really expect it, spectacularly locking up my back wheel in front of a taxi almost had me soiling my underpants, I honestly thought I was going to hit the guy, quick thinking however had me pass him on the right out of harm’s way. The wind had calmed down and the temperature was up to around 13 Deg C some of our warmer gear was promptly removed. Once we got to Thaba-tseka the roads became more of dirt highways, wider but still windy, but with one catch, MARBLES!!! I hate that stuff, as slippery as a fresh cow pie on tar, that didn’t make for happy riding with me, but all went well and eventually we made it to Katse, the guys can correct me if I am wrong but that took around 7 hours for 229km. not for the faint hearted.

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Shrek?
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We had accommodation booked at Orion Katse Lodge, they have the lodge section in the main building and then flat lets which are the old houses built for the Construction workers that built the dam years ago, we got one of the houses, which is a full on house, kitchen, bathroom, lounge, garden, carport and 2 bedrooms. One thing Orko learned on this trip, seeing that he booked this legs accommodation, was to always inform the people you are booking with that we are 4 men travelling together, in other words we require 4 beds, he failed with this task, we got 2 single beds and lovely Double bed. Machete opted to sleep on the cushions on the floor in the lounge.
After a well-deserved shower we went back to the main lodge for supper and drinks, the wind had picked up again and the temperature had dropped.
Drinks at Katse aren’t at budget prices this we found out after we got our nasty bill at the end of the evening. The cold ride back to the house made sure we slept nice and warm that night.
Very chuffed with our days spectacular riding and successes on the technical bits had our spirits high as well and ready for the next day’s challenges through the rest of Lesotho and out at the border at Caledonspoort.

 
Yes a real shame some of the finest Lesotho adventure roads are being faarked up by greedy and rampant Chinese neo-colonialism !  :-\
 
BiG DoM said:
Yes a real shame some of the finest Lesotho adventure roads are being faarked up by greedy and rampant Chinese neo-colonialism !  :-\

Yes, and funny that only we see it this way. The Chinese has slipped in so silently between us and they are developing Africa but completely on neutral ground......However, nothing is for free and I would like to know what's going to happen in 50years time as they have a lot of patience and it seems a very well thought long-term plan
 
TVB said:
BiG DoM said:
Yes a real shame some of the finest Lesotho adventure roads are being faarked up by greedy and rampant Chinese neo-colonialism !  :-\

Yes, and funny that only we see it this way. The Chinese has slipped in so silently between us and they are developing Africa but completely on neutral ground......However, nothing is for free and I would like to know what's going to happen in 50years time as they have a lot of patience and it seems a very well thought long-term plan

Unfortunately no such thing as neutral ground ... a few years back they were building the new parliamentary buildings in Maseru as a 'gift' I believe!  ::)  Thirty tears ago when I first travelled in Lesotho it was really unspoilt and one met really interesting educated owners of trading stores etc ... now the Basotho sit outside hawking the goods of the store now owned by a Chinaman who speaks Mandarin and Sesotho and no English ... go figure. Yes they are interested in exploiting the natural resources of the continent ... there is no such thing as a free lunch ... or free road. They have learnt that the buzz word passport is DEVELOPMENT ... and as in SA you can get away with murder through flouting it.  8)
 
BiG DoM said:
TVB said:
BiG DoM said:
Yes a real shame some of the finest Lesotho adventure roads are being faarked up by greedy and rampant Chinese neo-colonialism !  :-\

Yes, and funny that only we see it this way. The Chinese has slipped in so silently between us and they are developing Africa but completely on neutral ground......However, nothing is for free and I would like to know what's going to happen in 50years time as they have a lot of patience and it seems a very well thought long-term plan

Unfortunately no such thing as neutral ground ... a few years back they were building the new parliamentary buildings in Maseru as a 'gift' I believe!  ::)  Thirty tears ago when I first travelled in Lesotho it was really unspoilt and one met really interesting educated owners of trading stores etc ... now the Basotho sit outside hawking the goods of the store now owned by a Chinaman who speaks Mandarin and Sesotho and no English ... go figure. Yes they are interested in exploiting the natural resources of the continent ... there is no such thing as a free lunch ... or free road. They have learnt that the buzz word passport is DEVELOPMENT ... and as in SA you can get away with murder through flouting it.  8)

Yes, the smaller towns we rode through, we always saw the obligatory Chinese store
 
Day 4
345km of mainly dirt lay ahead for us, but after the previous day’s awesome riding we were up for it, no sweat!!
Once again we were up around 6am; as you get older the body clocks just automatically wake you up. Bikes were packed, camel backs filled and off to the lodge for breakfast, it was a calm morning, the wind was gone, great news for us. We had another good buffet breakfast, answered questions from other guests as to where we were off to and where we had come from and got novelties on sale outside to take back home. The end of the day should see us in Kestell.
Below if the route that was planned, it looks easy and we had all day right? RIGHT!!

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First we needed petrol, there are no petrol stations anywhere in this part of Lesotho, the last one we had seen was in Himeville, so we asked a guard, he pointed up the hill to a red landmark, stating that there was a shop there and they had clean petrol.
So off we went, headed straight for this red landmark, through the little village and finally to the place we were directed to, a lad came out and confirmed that we were at the right place, we were expecting stupid prices but it was R14.80 a litre, not too bad actually, only the Triumph and KTM filled up, 15 litres each, the German Pigs still had enough to make it to Fouriesburg.

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Got to send this man a copy of these photos
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We hit the road and immediately remembered that this was marble territory, that stuff is nerve racking to ride on, slippery and personally I constantly feel like I am going to be rolling in the stuff.

Legen-dairy
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The route followed the dam edge albeit a lot higher than water level. It didn’t take long for the wind to start picking up again, this time it was back with a vengeance blowing like there was no tomorrow, picking up dust ahead and all around us. It was extremely slow going, a lot of narrow mountain side roads, high up mountain sides. Even here we still saw ice in places, that stuff doesn’t melt in winter.

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At one stage Machete and I got pretty far ahead of the other two Skins, after a while with no sign of them we stopped and decided to wait a while, it was now that we thought it would have been a good idea to have walkie talkies with us, we started getting worried, this was taking very long, eventually making the call to go back and find them, something must have happened, we kitted up and as we were turning around they finally rounded a corner in the valley below.

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Turns out the Red German Pig had decided to lie down and have a nap after Orko lost his footing while standing still. With the engine idling while she was on her side this pumped oil up into the Air box, when he stopped next to us the bike was smoking like a 2 stroke. Nothing you can do but burn it out.

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On we went, we still had a long way to go and we were way behind schedule, a few bends further down the mountain roads I came over a little rise and started going downhill, noticing a rut extending towards the middle of the road I decided to lay off some speed, lightly on the front brake and a bit of rear braking, Back wheel locks up, bike starts sliding out to the right, pump the brake again and it locks again, this is where I think target fixation took over, all I looked at was the rut, trying to stop the sliding, the bike started sliding to the left and I came to terms with the fact that I was going down, a low side, nothing serious, it shouldn’t hurt and damage to the bike will be minimal, then it happened the bike had other ideas, a low side will be too easy, let’s throw this Portuguese chap off and she flipped, for moments I felt like superman, it all seemed to happen so slowly, landing on the rocks next to the road, all I heard on the comms was Machete, “Are you ok bud?” ,  I replied that I was fine, stood up and packed out laughing, what else could I do? There I was looking at my German pig taking a nap in a rut leaning more to the upside down position. Just then Ginger Bread Man came over the hill, and of course in true KTM rider style he had a lot of glee at seeing the second German on its side for the day.

KTM riders, still smug
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We picked up the bike and assessed the damage, a scratched screen with broken lowed mounting pins, the left mirror snapped off, Top Box Lock pin broken, Pot protector a bit scratched and dented and a crash bar bag ripped a little. Nothing serious really. I was ok and the bike would be easily fixed.

That will buff right out
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Orko was missing though, he had apparently gone back to look for his phone at the place where he took a fall. We waited and waited, Machete eventually went back to go find him, not long after he had taken off, Orko rounded the corner, now upset about having donated his Samsung S4 to a shepherd boy, those kids are everywhere, you can ride and ride and see one or two, stop somewhere where there aren’t any and next minute they emerge from the mountains, many of them all holding out a hand asking for sweets or money.
We forged on, the wind had picked up even more now, we had probably done about 1km when I hear a loud bang and Machete over the comms announcing that the British maiden had died on him. He hit a huge loose rock in the road, square on the bash plate, there was a proper dent in the plate to testify to this incident, but the bike wouldn’t start, electrics came on and the engine seemed to make a different start up procedure sound, could it be the happy button again? We pulled the bash plate off fearing that the Lambda sensor wire had been hurt after being pinched between the plate and the engine, this exercise proved fruitless, the wire was fine and no other damage was evident under there. Now we stood dumb struck worried as to what was going to happen now, tow him out? We started checking fuses which made no sense, why would a fuse blow? But by the third fuse there is was, the engine management fuse had joined the heavenly choir. No problem there are spares, fuse replaced, turn on ignition and still the start-up doesn’t sound the same, try swinging the motor and still nothing, check the fuse again, it’s still good. Then we turned the ignition off and on again and waited for the diagnostics to carry on and finish their thing, which took a lot longer than usual, hit the happy button and Voila!! She lives!!! Turns out the Triumphs have a safety system going in their innards, in the event of a hard impact, like a loose rock on a dirt road in the middle of Lesotho, the fuse pops. Now we know!

Is that how you search for Sat phone signal?
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I am not a gynaecologist, but I’ll take a look
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After losing close to an hour with this last exercise we set off again, now with all of us not too happy, I had totally lost my rhythm and we were all tired and we had only done around 40km, at around about 4 hours after leaving Katse, this wasn’t good at all, at the next stop we all agreed that the best would be to take the next bit of tar that we found and head straight for the border. Turns out we were less than a km from the closest tar; we got on the black stuff and felt a lot better for it. The tar is fantastic, in perfect condition, we did of course get a bit more traffic with it as well and you have to be careful with that, those guys out there won’t be winning awards anytime soon for the world best driving.
 
Nice RR so far Mikie! Verry nice.

Say...KTM rider wearing a BMW jacket? WTF?
 
EssBee said:
Nice RR so far Mikie! Verry nice.

Say...KTM rider wearing a BMW jacket? WTF?

:laughing4: :laughing4: :laughing4: I was waiting for that one, he is a confused chap he is, our Gail

 
Mikie said:
, stopping again when we saw our first frozen waterfall. We were amazed, so much water frozen solid, it’s the first time in my life that I have seen anything like it, yes this place must get cold overnight.

Icy corner, I see they changed the road and channeled the water away from the road surface now. Previously the water iced over the road making for an interesting corner.

PS The pass is a easy to ride now that they worked on it. End last year we readied ourselves for the difficult pass and a few minutes later we were drinking beer.  ;D


PPS You might have been better off to overnight below the pass. Sani Top in such cold conditions is not always fun. The water freeze and then you have no showers or toilet flush.



Thanks for the great RR
 
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