Green Namib 2011

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This ride report should have been posted almost a year ago, but life happens while you make other plans and with that I almost postponed the posting indefinitely. I feel however it would be shame not to share this trip.

Coming from Namibia and having spent many holidays in Swakopmund, a trip to Swakopmund via the Sossusvlei on the bike, has always been one of those bucket list type trips I imagined when the bike was bought. As one thing lead to another I never really got around to do the trip.

Thinking that this might be the last chance to fulfill this dream, I started planning the trip. I decided to do the “bottom” route via the Augrabies Falls.

Initially there was relative open window in March. As various things happened this trip was done in eight days. In hind sight, this is not recommendable (One would require at least two weeks).

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The Route

Day 1 Pretoria to Augrabies (949km)

Thanks to all the ride reports and advice from friends, I quickly had the route laid out. Day one and underway to Augrabies. As usual getting away a little late. Unaware of what laid ahead, I was sure one could make up the time.

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Cosmos & Sunflowers - Finally leaving the rat race behind! :)

Then just after leaving Gauteng, the first of many stop and go’s. Initially I still tried to make up some time. In Kuruman I gave up and hoped that the Falls would open early enough, to fit it into the next days schedule.

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Stop & Go (At least they are fixing and improving the road)

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Waterwheel in Keimoes

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Crossing the Orange at Kakamas

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The view from the lodging

Day 2 Augrabies to Canyon Road House (Fish River Canyon) (685km)

Relieved to find out that the Augrabies Falls Park already opens at seven am, leaving bright and early.

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Compared to the last time I was here, there was still a lot of water. Seeing what damage was done to the viewing platforms, its hard to imagine how much water must have gone past here earlier this year.

Next up was Poffader and Springbok. This piece of road was unbelievable straight, though not the last one on the trip. I enjoyed the wide open spaces.

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Border, Not our queue though

A pleasant surprised at the boarder with friendly officials and efficient processing at both posts.

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Crossing the Orange:

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WELCOME TO NAMIBIA


Filed up in Namibia (±R 1,00 cheaper) and cooled down with a milkshake.

Moving out of the Orange River Valley, it was surprisingly dry with very little vegetation. But soon this changed

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Straight road (once more)

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Here the adventure starts!!

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Deflating the tires

At this point I have to mention, that I had never done any substantial distances on gravel together  with a pillion and even on my own I only did about 3 trips with longer gravel sections. I was pretty nervous how things would turn out, especially if  I could maintain a pace to stay within the schedule as well as my limits. Non the less, gravel is what adventure riding is about!

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Canyon A Teaser, still some distance to go

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Rain in the distance

There was at least one rain shower on the route. Not bad, considering traveling through the oldest desert.

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There are many pictures of the Fish River Canyon, but none do it justice. It is just impossible to take it all in at once. Natured added to the drama, as the clouds gathered, the skies darkened and the thunder increased in frequency.

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The last stretch to the Canyon Road House became a race against the rain, the rain won. Soon I realized, that unlike in the Lowveld, the roads here are not at all slippery when wet.

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From an accommodation point of view (Paid accommodation, as nothing beats staying with friends), this was certainly the highlight of the tour. What a lovely setting, friendly staff and good food.
 
Day 3 Canyon Road House to Sossusvlei (547km)


When yesterday the gravel section was still a minor part of the total route, today there would only be 94km of tar.

The road to Seeheim was in a good condition and a real confidence builder and soon I was able to average around 80 to 90 km/h. Here some pictures on the go.

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At the Naute Dam turn off, there was a big board with “Road Closed”. What to do? I then realized, that with all the rain, the Loewen River was also in flood. That however was about a month ago and I hoped the water would have receded by now. Thus I ignored the sign and proceeded.

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Loewen River:The challenge was the sandy section in the back

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Closed Sign: Made it

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Fish River

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Bethanie: See fuel, buy fuel

Bethanie, on the way to Helmeringhausen hitting the dirt again. By now I actually was looking forward to the dirt section. This stretch was very good condition and I could even start to enjoy the scenery.

Moving on further north the vegetation became more and more dense. At least for this area and it is just amazing how many rivers carried water.

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Lunch at the Helmeringhausen Hotel. I do not want to start a debate, but this Apple crumble was first class!

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Helmeringhausen welcoming committee

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Local pet

Next up, the Remhoogte Pass along the C14 almost to Maltahoehe and then turning off towards the Tsaris Hoogte Pass on the C19 which would lead one to Desert Camp near Sossusvlei.

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Another river with water

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Prophetic sign

In the mornings one was normally greeted by open blue skies with only a few clouds, however these would increase steadily and by noon larger clouds would form. This repeated itself daily and from about two o’clock one would pass through the occasional rain shower. These would not last very long and mostly were welcome cooling of periods. Only once it became slippery.

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Approaching Remhoogte

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A Green Schwarzrand (Black Ridge)

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Mud and Water as promised, but no rain (that would come later)

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More mud and water

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I really hoped the road would go on straight, but it veered to the left and we experienced that shower first hand.

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Some local fauna

Unfortunately, when it rains there are no pictures.

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At the edge of the plateau, there was a beautiful clear sky with some dramatic clouds in the distance.

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Approaching Tsaris Hoogte

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Tsaris Hoogte Pass

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Nubib Mountains

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Just beautiful, look at the savannah like plains

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Approaching the Namib and rain?

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Rainbow, missing the pot of gold or maybe not, riding in it all along!

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Then bright sunshine again

Somewhere along this stretch I had my first wobbly. Tried to find a different line and it turned out to be a lot softer there. Nothing happened and no harm done, now I was certainly 200% awake, not that I felt sleepy  ;)

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The Naukluft Mountains, getting closer to our destination :)

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Desert Camp, our accommodation near Sossusvlei

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More desert rain

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The Naukluft Mountains draped in the last rays of the day

For dinner, got some sandwiches at the service station, which weren’t bad at all. Went back to the “tent” and enjoyed the evening. One thing that was strange however, there were hardly any stars. I always associated with the Namib night skies with bright clear stars. This time however they were hidden by the clouds. A small price to pay, as it was the rain that clad the desert in green.
 
Wow lovely pictures - so different from when its dry
 
Namibia is always beautiful ................. wet or dry ......... ;)

Lekker ride report and waiting for more ................... :thumleft:
 
Day 4 Sossusvlei & Sesriem to Swakopmund (346km)


Got up bright and early, to catch the ride to the Sossusvlei, as this was the reason for the trip in the first place.

Here some pictures:
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A lone Oryx

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Faerie rings

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Tsauchab

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Grass covered dunes

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Dune 45

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Big daddy

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Dead valley

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Sossusvlei


Back at Sesriem it was already 12:00 and departing for Swakopmund at 12:30. Why this detail? As I would find out later, 12:30 was a bit late. However lets not get ahead of ourself.

First stop would be Solitaire. This is the major tourist route and also serves the farming community, the traffic (if you can call it that) picked up. I kept on wondering why people in City Golf’s were looking at us in such amazement and I must admit the feeling was mutual. Who would explore a desert in a City Golf or Tazz. No wonder the rental companies have these multi page disclaimers.

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En Route to Solitaire

Who can go past Solitaire and not enjoy the much raved about apple crumble? Once again the clouds started to gather and there was thunder in the distance. Although I prefer to stay dry, the prospect of rain did not bother me that much any more and my main concern was the additional traffic, hopefully staying on their side of the road. Little did I know what laid in store and that the next stretch towards the Kuiseb canyon would be significantly more challenging then anything I had encountered so far.

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And on we go

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An unexpected companion

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Wide open spaces…

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More greenery

Very soon after leaving Solitaire the gravel surface became more and more loose and even sandy. With the main tracks heavily corrugated. This not only reduced the average speed, but also my confidence, especially after having had a couple more close calls. You had two evils to chose from, soft smooth surfaces or a corrugated slightly more firm surface. On the up side, all the tight neck muscles were shaken loose.

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Tropic of Capricorn  I look a lot more confident then what I felt…

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Gaub Canyon

Next up the Kuiseb Canyon

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... this is not the canyon yet.

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En route to the Kuiseb Canyon

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Some running repairs, yes there are some brief stretches of tar

The Kuiseb Canyon was just unbelievable, I have hardly seen any vegetation coming past here in previous times and now it was just green. It almost had a Dullstroom feel to it. More a meadow than Savannah.

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Kuiseb Canyon

As you leave the canyon and the road turns west towards the coast you hit the plains of the Namib. The road improved, but by now it was already past five and another 120km of gravel had to be covered. That would be a tight fit.

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Magnificent view of the Namib, as far as the eye could see the desert was turned into a Savannah.

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We made it.

Just in time. Fortunately there was no evening mist and the last stretch to Swakopmund was uneventful.

Day 5 Swakopmund – Rest day

The next two nights where spent in Swakopmund having a wonderful stay with friends.  After having a fish braai on the beach, I was coxed into swimming in the Atlantic. The last time I did this, I was still at school and a 17ºC water temperature did not seem that cold.

Another rarity, here some pictures of the Swakop river flowing into the Atlantic.

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Bliksem....dit lyk lekker. Liewer laat as nooit ne!  :thumleft:

Hopelik suiker paar van ons Desember soontoe!
 
Lekker solo trip! Nice phodies. In the pic "More desert rain" you can almost hear the desert drinking it all up.
 
Day 6 Swakopmund to Windhoek (379km)

I took it easy today and only stayed on the black stuff, the only day I was not worried about the schedule. Lunch in Usakos, next to the Khan river, got some biltong in Okahandja and then did a quick loop through Windhoek.

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Namib

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Spitzkoppe

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Erongo Mountain

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Khan River

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Karibib

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En route to Okahandja

In Windhoek, we also had the privilege of staying with friends. I must apologize to all of you who we did not see on our way. :(

Day 7 Windhoek to Upington (997km)

Again up, bright and early leaving Windhoek with no hick ups on our way. Some claim this to be the best rainy season since 1963 and it also showed along this part of the route. It made what is normally a long straight dreary road bearable.

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Brukkaros

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Keetmanshoop (Bypass)

Lunch in Keetmanshoop and as usual the clouds were gathering again.

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Karasberge

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Gruenau

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Getting rid of the last N$

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Farewell Namibia

Once again the personnel at both border posts were efficient and friendly.

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Upington here we come

Not much was planned for Upington (Fuel, Eat, Sleep, Eat, Go).

Day 8 Upington – Pretoria (828km)

Apart from a sore bum, there is not much to report on this stretch.

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Katu (reminds me of the Tonkas I used to play with)

Back in Pretoria in one piece, tired and with a very sore bum. In the days to come, the pain dissipated and was soon replaced with the awesome images of this trip.  ;D

Unfortunately the memories of this trip will always be mixed ones, but let me not burden you with this.

Thanks to my pillion for the on the go pics.

A last note, 4722 km's and the GS did not miss a beat, not bad for a 16 year old!  bike:ricky:
 
Lekker report with beautiful pics ....................  :thumleft: :thumleft:
 
Some very nice pics there. :thumleft:
Congrats to the camerapillion :thumleft:
 
chrisL said:
Some very nice pics there. :thumleft:
Congrats to the camerapillion :thumleft:
Your photographer has a good eye, to capture the mood & scene, keeping the pics interesting.
Almost a "I wish I was there" moment.  :thumleft:
 
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