Into Africa - DASKOP's 12000km drive

[DASKOP]

Charcoal and diesel.

On the one side of the road is the sale of charcoal, which although illegal, is prevalent all over. The local vegetation is being devastated by the chopping down of the trees and vast areas are either barren or burnt down in order to produce the charcoal.

Hence the term, Africa is burning. Sad, but true.

On the other side of the road the illegal dealing in diesel is advertised with the orange containers. In some areas they adorn the road like cheap flowers for kilometers. Diesel is illegally purchased cheaply from skelm truck drivers and then sold to those who are not concerned about the origin of their purchases.

 

[DASKOP]

Scenes from Mozambique.....................not the travel brochure version.

 

[DASKOP]

I was surprised to come across the first sign of formalised farming. The crops looked amazing and it is indicative of what can be done. I cannot understand, given the natural resources available here, that there is not a lot more of this type of cultivation evident. Politics and greed seem to remove the ability for rational thinking.

 

[DASKOP]

The last section to Chimoio............little did I know at that stage what lay ahead for me in Chimoio.

 

[Mr Zog]

I agree with Murphy, definitely for the Roll of Honour  :deal:

 

[DASKOP]

I agree with Murphy, definitely for the Roll of Honour  :deal:

Thank you.  :thumleft:

 

[DASKOP]

Something I forgot to mention earlier, which is another thing we just take for granted in RSA, are speed signs. Most of the time there are no signs and you have no idea what the speed is, so to avoid trouble, you travel slowly. It is helluva comforting when you see the signs and then you can drive accordingly and enjoy your surroundings.

 

[DASKOP]

Chimoio was like a whole trip experience all on its own.

I get into the outskirts, get stopped by the cops. Very friendly, no problems and I get sent on my way. I get to the traffic circle and my GPS, for some unknown reason, and I are in conflict as to the direction to go. So I go back, turn left onto a road, stop at a vehicle roadworthy inspection building (very ironic if you look at the general unroadworthiness of vehicles), no English speaking people, head back to the cops and get directions into town.

I was initially going to travel back through Zimbabwe, but was after Murphy's experience, Mozambique was maybe the better option. As I did not have international roaming on my phone and could not have it done outside RSA after Murphy left, I was buying sim cards and air time for each country and was going to buy for Zim. But the change of route meant a change of sim card requirements.

I needed to first draw money and then buy the micro sim card for my S4. No chance. It must be pension pay-out or pay day Friday. The queues at the ATM machines are down the road and around the block. At ALL of them. The banks have closed their doors and are not allowing anyone in because they are totally full of people. The cell phone shops are all closed, must be mosque time.

I am buggered. I don't have much more cash on me and a useless cellphone. It is becoming clear that I will have to return in the morning to get sorted, because there is absolutely no way that I am going to have any success today. It is getting late and I need to find accommodation.

I find Mira Chirumba Lodge, on my GPS, (we seem to have resolved our differences) which is about 40km from Chimoio on the road to Mutare, Zimbabwe, just in case I decide tonight to rather do the Zim option tomorrow. I really want to see the Eastern Highlands.

I drive past a sign that says Linda's Lodge, (YOU WILL SEE THAT NAME AGAIN) as I head out of town, the cops wave at me at the roadblock, and I head to my accommodation for the night.

There are no photos of this section, so just some random of my drive to Chimoio. The next batch start as I hit the gravel road.

 

[DASKOP]

:ricky:

 

[DASKOP]

:biggrin:

 

[DASKOP]

The first 20 odd kays are tar, then I hit 18 km of the most horrendous corrugated gravel road that I have ever ridden in my life. Then there were the intermittent soft sandy patches. I was at times considering riding through the adjoining forests just to escape the continuous pounding. It was too late to turn back, so I had to push on.

Then I saw the expanse of water to my right and stop to take some photos and re-settle from the bumpy ride.

 

[DASKOP]

From there it is around the corner, through a small village and then I come upon this dam wall. It is a hydro-electric supply dam.

 

[DASKOP]

Mira Chicamba Lodge................not what I expected, much more rustic, rural, but very clean.

There is an open plan thatched dining area and bar with some satellite thatched gazebos, camping spots, an ablution block and some chalets / rooms / rondavels. But, it is lake side and has an amazing view. Just how amazing I was to find out at sunset.

The barman / reception man speaks some English and I get a room with a bathroom for the night. No camping, I want to get going very early in the morning.

YEAH RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!! How was I to know.

 

[DASKOP]

Mira Chicamba Lodge

 

[DASKOP]

There is absolutely no ways that any photo will ever be able to do justice to the sunset I witnessed here.

 

[DASKOP]

I was sitting on a concrete ramp, transfixed by the beauty of my surroundings. How privileged was I, to be here at this moment, enthralled by this sunset splendour.

 

[DASKOP]

As the sun continued to set, the colour intensity of the scene became more and more striking. It was a mind blowing, breathtaking setting, the effect that it had on me at that moment, becomes very apparent, listening to my commentary on the video I took.  

Despite what was to come, it was the highlight of my trip through Mozambique.

 

[DASKOP]

27 July 2013.

It has been a month on the road without any problems, but that was about to change.

Misty morning on the lake. The mokoro returning is the same one I saw the previous night. They go out and fish all night and go back in the mornings. Well that is what I think Miguel said.

It is early Saturday morning. I am up before dawn. Pack the bike, shower and kit up. Check that I have everything.

Get on the bike, key it on and press the starter button. It just turns and turns and turns, but does not fire up. I leave it for a while and try again. The same result. A little later, again, same result.

Now I am buggered. No useable cellphone, very little cash in my pocket, no other guests at the lodge and nearly 50km from the nearest urban area where I might find help.

And everyone speaks Portuguese.  

Then there are the "tarentale". There are two groups. The albino and four friends are the outcasts and the bigger group of about fifteen are moer-of-unhappy at their presence. And they follow them around informing them of this all day AND all night long. It is irritating to say the least.

I am trying to figure out a way of getting my bike going and these feathered fiends are making a constant racket of note.

 

[DASKOP]

Eventually I move the bike to a place where it will stand level, take the seat off and see if there are maybe any loose wires. Me and mechanical..........not a good combination.

According to Miguel, the barman, concierge, maitre-d', receptionist, chief cook and bottle-washer, his boss, who can speak English will be there later on during the day and he is sure that I will then get some help.

OK...........I have serious reservations, but I have limited options. Actually, I have none. Nothing else, but to be patient, wait it out, have some refreshments, do some laundry and try to start the bike a few more times in between some exploratory excursions around the place. Would be a pity to let this opportunity go to waste, so see what you can.

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

Side stand switch ...?

:ricky: