Nam - of matrimony, larceny, skeletons and unforgettable times

[Pongo]

I have not posted anything for some time, but then I have not been on a trip worth writing about for some time. This changed in October.
I got the inspiration for my first long(ish) trip from the Wild dogs (Nam 2008). I don’t get to spend much time on the forum, but I have to share this story with the dogs.

Two years ago, after that first Nam trip, I started nagging an old friend in Pretoria, André, to get himself a “stofdonkie” so he can share in the adventure.

When my wife and I got an invitation to a wedding (my sister’s daughter) in Windhoek and wifey could not join me driving there, I saw an opportunity for another Nam trip. Initially my wife would fly in for the occasion, but that plan also got sidetracked. My partner on the previous Nam trip, Raymond, could not go (he had just done the Parys – De Aar). When I talked to Andre again, he promptly traded his Yamaha FJR1300 for a new 1200 Super Tenere.

My first 800 was written off in March after an encounter with a taxi. I love the bike so it wasn’t difficult to choose a replacement – this time I got the “Lava orange” (best of both worlds, I reckoned). Liefie had her 10000 km service and some extras and we were ready.

Itching and planning started. I wanted to do the north-western part of Namibia and Andre has seen all of Nam but the coast. That made for some serious riding in the ten days we had for the trip.

André got his First Edition in time to still have the 1000 km service done before the trip and on 13 October he rode from Pretoria, I did the 900+ km from Cape Town and we met in Upington. All the way up the west coast I had to fight a cold, strong north-westerly wind and even Springbok was a chilling 13º C, not what I expected for mid-October. André’s moonbag with his passport and camera was stolen in Kuruman where he stopped for coffee, but he somehow charmed the people at the local Home Affairs office into issuing him with a temporary passport. Like he said - nothing would bog down this trip! Positive vibes, only positive vibes!

The first night, after dinner in the Dros in Upington, we crashed in a chalet in the Kalahari Monate Lodge, which is part of the Spitskop Nature Reserve just north of the town. A recommendable stay-over.

 

[Chrisl]

Ingeteken. :thumleft:

 

[RUPTO]

.

 

[Oom Foe-rie]

My popcorn masjien is aangeskakel ................... :thumleft:

 

[zetman]

Njam njam ...

 

[Pongo]

Sorry, ek stoei net eers bietjie met ImageShack.

 

[steady eddy]

subscribed :bueller:

 

[Pongo]

Day two, Thursday October 14:

The plan was to stay over in the Keetmanshoop area and not do the stretch to Windhoek in one day, so we were not in a hurry. Breakfast was had in Upington, Andre did some shopping to replace stolen goods and we crossed the border at Ariamsvlei/Nakop just before noon. In the Karasburg area we visited acquaintances of Andre on their farm and that night we stayed over at the Lafenis Lodge just outside Keetmanshoop.

Day three, Friday October 15:

I didn’t pack any warm clothes as it was already October and I did not expect temperatures in Namibia below 10º. The weather predictions I checked before the trip all had double figures. Alas, for the second day we had an early morning temperature of 6º. We decided to enjoy the cool weather as much as we can while it lasted.

Before taking the B1 north we visited the Quiver tree forest. This place is like a natural marvel and it gave me a sense of awe which cannot be captured on film:

The tarred road to Windhoek can get quite boring so we raised our cruising speed to 170 - 180 km/h. Andre did not have a problem with his 23 liter tank, but I soon discovered that the fuel range reading on my dash did not correlate with the signs along the road telling you the distance to the next town. At one stage I was 30km short, so I had to adapt. Amazing what difference 20km/h can do!

That evening we had a good time in Joe’s Beerhouse with my sister and also met Stephan, a colleague of hers who joined us two days later on the next leg of the trip from Windhoek to Epupa.

Day four, Saturday October 16:

My sister was caught up in whatever mothers do when their daughters get married so Andre and I explored Windhoek. I also bought a warm top which of course I did not need for the rest of the trip.

The wedding ceremony was in the Christus Kirche and the reception at the River Crossing Lodge which is on top of a hill east of Windhoek. It was truly a fairy-tale wedding.

Day five, Sunday October 17:

Initially we planned on staying over at Kamanjab, but since the road is tarred from Windhoek right up to Opuwo, that is where we headed for the day so we would later be able to spend more time in the north along the Kunene.

The road from Otjiwarongo to Kamanjab is just fine but speeding would be dangerous because all along there are hundreds of warthogs close to the road feeding on the last roots of the dry season.

In Kamanjab we stopped for a cold one:

and in Opuwo we spent the afternoon at the pool of the Opuwo Country Hotel where we stayed over.  

Judged by the mirages, whirlwinds and haze towards the north, it became quite clear that I would not need my new warm top after all. The swallows and doves visited the rim flow pool in swarms because it must have been the only open water source in the area. At sunset there were so many swallows, it seemed like they must have some kind of air traffic control – they approached the pool from opposite directions and never crossed each other’s flight path.

The sunset that evening was like I remember a sunset in the northern parts of Nam – simply amazing, with or without a silhouette.

Day six, Monday October 18:

We had breakfast at the Lodge, filled our bikes and fuel bladders in Opuwo  and took the C43  into real Ovahimba country.


What bothered me along the first stretch of this road is the lengths to which the young Ovahimba people would go trying to stop any passing vehicle so they can beg. This includes stoning when you open the throttle to get them to clear the road. We also heard from local people of an incident where a rope was laid across the road and picked up when a vehicle approaches – that could hurt if you’re on a bike!!. Tourism in my opinion is not good for a people so different than the tourists. What is supposed to be their culture and pride, has turned into a means of making money which lead to moral decay in more than one way, which is further exploited by some bad tourists. But enough of that.


At the turn-off to Swartbooisdrif we decided to go to Epupa Falls first and maybe do the road along the river to Kunene River Lodge the next day on our way back.

At Epupa Falls Camp we had a couple of cold ones, some Russian and chips and had a look around.

It was noon and close to 40º so it wasn’t too difficult for zamalek and me to convince Andre that riding any further would not be very enjoyable. We decided on staying at the Omarunga Camp, unpacked and explored the Falls. The rainy season has not begun and the level of the river is quite low. The Falls is however still awesome, with typical oasis-like scenery all around:

The Omarunga Camp is idyllic, the staff really great and the food is scrumptious. I would love to take my wife there. She is however not at all comfortable with an ambient temperature above 25º (neither am I any more) so we will have to go in autumn.

That evening after dinner we discovered that our tent had been cut open and more than half of our luggage have been burgled, among other things a GPS, camera, passport and reg. documents and all our clean clothes. In less than ten minutes the local policemen were there, armed and ready to track down the criminals. This was the first time in history a robbery of this magnitude took place in Epupa – and we never thought we would come all the way from Pretoria/Cape Town to be robbed in paradise.

We were moved to the owner’s family unit and treated on night caps in the bar until late in the night, waiting for any news. The manager, Andrew also went out to help with the search, but the perpetrators got away in the dark.

During the night the police somehow got word from an old man who saw two guys passing his dwelling carrying peculiar looking bags. Early the next morning the search was on again.

 

[zetman]

Aitog afirmative shopping daar ook al

 

[Pongo]

Day seven, Tuesday October 19:

Andre and I had to decide on a deadline for getting any returns and leaving without our stuff. Meanwhile the owner of the lodge, who stays in Swakopmund, offered any help we needed and also said we are guests at the lodge for the time being.

During the morning the police wanted a list from each of us stating exactly what was stolen. A little before noon we heard the good news that some of the stuff was found and by 13:00 we had everything back, my passport as well. Only the energy bars and other edibles were consumed. Two guys from Ruacana region were arrested near Okangwati, some 40 km south from Epupa. They were on foot, so the energy bars must’ve come in handy.

We had to sort, clean and re-pack everything, but did not mind - we were too happy to have everything back. (Not that I would pass on a private interview with the two amateurs). The detective then started taking down affidavits to back the criminal case against the two and we decided that we’re staying for the night. The memory card in Andre’s camera was wiped, so he went down to the falls that afternoon to take some pics again while I lounged at the pool.  


The professionalism and competency of the Namibian Police is really noteworthy and for the Omarunga Lodge and its staff – you will see us again. Thanks.

The team:

Our hosts Andrew and Trixie:

Day eight, Wednesday October 20:


We left Epupa early in the morning for Opuwo. The initial plan was to camp at Ongongo, but since we have lost a day and had to be back home/office by 25th, we realized that we had to make up time. We cut out a planned loop via Brandberg and Uis to Hentiesbaai and went straight for the coast along the C39.

The C43  between Opuwo and Sesfontein takes you through nice hilly terrain and the Joubert Pass:

There are a few surprises when you crest some of the steep hills. The road is being repaired and until it can be built up again, nasty rocks have been used to fill up washed away areas. My front wheel got a knock or two, something I only learned later on was more serious than I thought.

Beautiful scenery along the road in the Anabeb Conservancy:

We refueled at Sesfontein and had a bite at Fort Sesfontein:

On the way to Palmwag we had more openness with great scenery.

Only problem is at this temperature it takes courage to stop for a picture:

Palmwag is another jewel in the desert. Another “must take wife there”.

Before booking in at the Palmwag Lodge, you have to sign an indemnity against any injury by elephants. I thought Ja right!! Later this turned out to be very appropriate. A lone desert elephant bull roamed the camp that evening. He must be used to people and a camera flash does not even upset him, but I have not been this close to a “wild” elephant before:

His intentions were not very clear and some of it was hanging out too, so after this picture I backed out. He nibbled on a Mopani bush in front of our rooms and wandered off.

 

[mother]

always nice to ride Namibia....pity about all ur theft issues...glad it didn't dampen ur ride too much

 

[letsgofishing]

Great trip guys - pity about the theft though, but at least it ended well!

 

[ktmrules]

Thanks :thumleft:

On the bucket list :drif:

 

[wimpie]

Nice one Pongo, thats the way to go!

 

[Kokkie]

subscribed  :thumleft:

 

[Brakenjan]

Hell, I love stories about competent police, catching perps within 24 hours and returning your stuff to you!!  :thumleft:

Thanks for the RR - Nam surely is a great place!!

 

[roxenz]

Great stuff so far Pongo. Appreciate your attitude: sh!t can/does happen anywhere, only diff is how you handle it.  :thumleft:

 

[Pongo]

Thanks guys. About the shit happening R – it’s exactly like you put it. On a trip like this, with some added challenges, you really get to know yourself and your companion better as well.

 

[Pongo]

Day nine, Thursday October 21:

When we arrived at Palmwag we started asking around about the condition of the road down the coast through the Skeleton Coast Park (C39 and C34). We got just as many different answers as people we asked, so we decided to go look for ourselves. This also happened later in the trip when we asked about the C14 between Walvis and Solitaire. After that we concluded that a realistic interpretation of the condition of a dirt road can only be one by another biker coming from the opposite direction.

Just after breakfast at the lodge and refilling the bikes and fuel bladders we left Palmwag for the Skeleton Coast.

On this road between Palmwag and Bergsig I had a couple of close calls, smelled chloroform once. I just loathe a corrugated road and the same goes for marbles (don’t think its possible not to). A part of this road (can’t remember which part, it’s mentally blocked from my memory) is so badly corrugated and strewn with a thick layer of marbles that no vehicle even leave a track to ride in, they just drift all over. To me this was a real nightmare on the bike. The touring screen I put on the GS withstood some serious whipping here. Like on all the other challenging parts of the roads we travelled – sorry, at the time stopping to take a pic was the last thing on my mind.

We arrived at the northern gate of the Park (Springbokwasser) at about 09:00. No entry without a permit, but that is for free at the office and you have to sign out on the other side. I guess they just want your name and registration on a list to make sure you get out at the other gate (for your own sake as well).

I wanted a picture of my bike together with an Oryx. If you look closely you will see him:

For those whose eyes aren’t that good any more, I zoomed in on the Oryx:

It amazes me how an animal that size can survive in these conditions.

This is what it looks like towards the coast. You can already smell the ocean from there:

Closer to the sea the dunes warned us of possible sand:

For quite a distance  the sand kept us really busy and we had to work hard to keep the rubber down. Fortunately an inshore breeze kept the temperature below 15º, which made it easier to get through the thicker patches.

Although remote, harsh and almost lifeless, the Park has a charm of its own. The scenery also changes every ten km’s like in the rest of Nam:

We did not see any more wildlife, but there were signs of jackal and a fresh spoor of a Brown Hyena.

We reported at the southern gate (Uchabmund / Ugab River) at noon:

visited the Seal colony at Cape Cross:

had coffee and a bite in Hentiesbaai (yes coffee, the temp was still below 20º) and enjoyed the easy riding on the salt road to Swakopmund.

In Swakop we stayed at Alte Brucke and had a beer at the new “Jetty 1915” restaurant on the end of the old harbour:

After the past two days’ riding we had something to celebrate and that we did. Eisbein at the Brauhaus:

and a nightcap or two (or was it three?) at Tiger Reef.

 

[Oetie]

Wow!! Thanks, the to do list gets longer by the day!!