Namibia DRIVE report, the Landy made it back!

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m0lt3n

Grey Hound
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Location
Kathu (NC)
Bike
KTM 1290 Adventure R
Thought I would share our recent trip with you guys after being helped with the route ( https://wilddog.net.za/forum/index.php?topic=227705.0). I believe there will be some good information for others if they plan routes in future also.

So our initial plan was to buy an SUV next year and do a proper Namibia trip. Life happens while me make plans and they stole my old Isuzu bakkie beginning of the year. We bought the Landy (my wife demanded a 7 seater and I have since come to love it)  and sommer decided lets do the trip this year already. I had to do a ton of prepping, roof rack and tent and such but fortunately got most things secondhand. Even had a drawer system thrown into the deal. We had to draw a line somewhere with the expenses so did the trip with a coolbox and not a freezer and also opted for a tent and not a rooftop tent as well as a blow-up matras and not proper self inflating matrasses with stretchers. Irritating at times but we managed (except for my back! I am getting old!)

The reason my wife demanded a 7 seater 4x4 was because she was tired of being left home when I go on bike trips after we got the children. Therefore this report is propably not rated Wilddog adventure driving and will be a lot of focus on my family and on the new Landy. a lekker softy report where I complain about corrugated roads, fuel consumption and Lollos.

First pic is my setup. I put the tent on the roof and fastened it with one Rox strap. Worked well. Also took of the Jerry cans from the holder and used that platform on top for wood. (another wilddog cracked his sunroof poking it with wood). I got the ladder as part of all the secondhand stuff, would not have bought it otherwise and would have had a tough time without it. The car was pretty much packed to the brim. I don't know how a trip like this could be done in a smaller vehicle, and it wasn't even an extreme trip.

We set off Friday after work, crossed the border and slept the first night at Grunau. Someone told me to rather buy meet at Grunau than at Luderitz....not happening or I completely missed Grunau CBD. We set of on the C12 and enjoyed the first of Namibia's famed good gravel roads(LIES LIES LIES). We made good progress and stopped at a new Padstal somewhere around Holoog. Spoke to the lady and she said they gave up farming, tourism was easier and better. Also got told the road is closed further on and we have to take the D545. The children enjoyed the Padstal which was set up pretty well with all the Namibia roadstall prerequisite old car wrecks. Also stopped at Seeheim just to see if the Hotel was rebuild. Front of it was fine but behind the big building facing you you could still see the damage. They seemed to be fully functioning and 'normal' though.

Tar road to Luderitz got long and boring so we pulled over for some more photos and for the children to get rid of some energy. We enjoyed the first scenery of all the 'open-ness' and the promise of what was still to come. We then stopped, refuelled and bough some supplies at Aus which wasn't stocked to bad, good meat and Coffee as well and got to Luderitz in good time
 

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In Aus I bought a Nam sim card so got that sorted while loitering in Luderitz,still slightly alive even though it was Sunday. We drove to the Luderitz camping sight next to the ocean and were rather happy with our decision of not sleeping there, it looked awesome but would have been very cold.
After booking in at some self catering we walked around on what I guess is a waterfront of sorts and allowed the children to play some. There was a jungle gym they enjoyed while being fascinated with all the little boats. Later on we had a sea food platter at some nice restaurant. Or I thing it was nice, we sat outside so the children could run around without spoiling the night for everyone. It was a good day, the first of many.

The next morning we wanted to be early at Kolmanskop so that the sun didn't fry us, but only the morning found a map of Luderitz with the Diaz cross and some other bits on it. So much for doing research on what to see at a place, we almost missed it. We did some more touristy stuff then, saw a lighthouse and the Diaz cross, then drove a little on the beach just because I could (okay, later learned I couldn't, more on that later..)

Got to Kolmanskop at around 9am and found the place already busy. Our first meeting with the tons of outlander tourists. Germans, French and Americans were everywhere. For the next few days we saw more Germans tourists than we saw Namibians. Anyhow, we explored a bit around all the old houses. Enjoyed the gymnastics exhibitions of what used to be popular in the days. Typical mining town setup. I also only later learned that my late Grandfather also stayed/worked there. Interesting and well worth stop.

We continued, drove to Aus, refuelled, got on the C13 and deflated for a few days of gravel. Drove a bit and took the D707 which was very enjoyable and scenic. It was also to be our first night of camping which was on the D707 at Koiimasses. We were booked for the executive camping with your own ablutions and it was very nice. Definitely a place I would recommend. Next time we would try to stay a bit longer to spend some time at the lodge and pool as well.
 

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Lekker Martin! Ons het 1 aand by Lüderitz gekamp toe ek nog 'n laaitie was en die wind het ons canvas come tent amper plat teen die grond gewaai! Ook 'n paar duintjies oor die pad gewaai oppad terug en goeie sandblasting job op die voorruit en ligte van die motor gedoen!
 
Luderirz - Shark Island Camp
Stayed there once in 2010, stayed for 2 nights, didn't have a breath of wind, not a cloud in sight - we were one of the few people there, its was brilliant
Went back in 2015 in a 4x4 - had to wedge my body into the passenger door opening so that my wife could get out - she was promptly blown over. Obviously didnt camp... BUT, they did have the World Windsurfing Speed Record runs taking place in that small bay on the way to Diaz Cross....
 
The Monday we set off again. Destination Sossusvlei. In the end it was a busy day.
on our setup: I tried to keep things simple for camping, used a little hiking gas burner which worked a treat for coffee and eggs in the mornings. so our mornings quickly got a rhythm with myself making coffee, then oatso easy and then eggs, feeding the children by which time my wife would have finished clearing up the tent inside. Putting away self inflating matrasses of the children, sleeping bags and our blow-down matras. Then break tent and pack the car. This would take about two hours by which time the sun would just start to rush you on and the air con be a welcome relief.
We missed having a rooftop tent, 20seconds vs 20minutes to put up the tent was still manageable, but all the bedding was also a lot of work and took a lot of space. It would have made our lives a lot easier with a rooftop tent, but we also agreed that it wont really work yet with the toddlers. so grit your teeth and get on with setting up camp was a necessary evil.

The roads weren't to bad initially, but the corrugation got worse and worse as we continued, Sossuvlei seemed to be the centre/pinnacle of this. I was also getting a bit concerned of getting a reputation as being the idiot LR driver among the tourists. I was overtaking a lot of international tourists in their rental 4x4 hilux's with rooftop tents, doing about 70 on these bad roads. I tried to maintain 110 with tyres at 1.8 bar.

We stopped at Dhuwisib castle which was an okay stop. Cant imagine how he managed to get all the material to such a remote place to build his castle but I guess anything is possible if you have enough money. I liked his bar which was in the solder below grounds. A proper man cave! Reading the pamphlet it was sad to hear that they didn't enjoy their castle for long. Soon after building it the first world war came, they were off on a trip back to their homeland Germany at the time and the Baron (iirc) wanted to be part of the action . He died shortly after joining the war and his (rich) wife remarried a bit later, never going back to the castle. The castle was unclaimed for a while until some Swedish family took it but also only for a little while (cant remember why, also died I think) till the government claimed it.

(@Chris, a flat tyre story for you!) On the way to Sossus I helped two German ladies with a flat tyre. They did not know how to change it. Super risky in these remote areas if you ask me... They insisted on paying me for these services rendered. I just took the money and counted it back in my car. R500! if they weren't German I would seriously have taken it back! Anyhow, I tried to be very helpful and friendly to all international tourist ladies after that  ;)
They were in an Xtrail but tyres were at 2 bar. I do still think they would have had a tough time, those cars are setup fairly stiff with not a lot of suspension travel imo.

We set up camp at Little Sossus campsite which was nice, we were to stay here for two nights but unfortunately could not book both nights at this place. We then went to have a look at the Sossus canyons (name eludes me now) with the gate guard allowing us to enter for free as we would be back again the next day and pay then. Nice guy (if you get past the attitude). Children loved the canyons. They are at a stage of wanting to climp over and into everything. With their first day back at school I was worried of getting a visit from the police, their shins and arms are full of bruises and scrapes from this holiday.

Back at camp we celebrated our wedding anniversary at the swimming pool. The swimming pools at the camp sites would soon turn out to be lifesavers! In the picture there is a spider in the ice, not planted...only saw it when I took the pic.
 

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We then went to have a look at the Sossus canyons (name eludes me now)

Dink dis die Sesriem Canyon.
Hoe het julle daai twee terroriste besig gehou in die kar of het hulle na n rukkie uitgepass?
 
ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS said:
We then went to have a look at the Sossus canyons (name eludes me now)

Dink dis die Sesriem Canyon.
Hoe het julle daai twee terroriste besig gehou in die kar of het hulle na n rukkie uitgepass?

:thumleft:  Korrek, Sesriem.

Dis so genoem aangesien hulle donkiejare terug ses osriemme vasgemaak aan 'n emmer nodig gehad het om water uit die canyon te skep. 
 
Of dit nou n "Drive Report" of n "Ride Report" is ........... dit maak nie saak nie ................. "Nam reports" bly maar altyd n wenner ................ :thumleft: :thumleft:
 
:sip: Thanks vir die DR, plekke wat ek al gesien en geniet het. Ek hou van die looks van daai kar, wou nog altyd een aangeskaf het. Sal seker nog, maar sal so moeilik van my Colt ontslae raak.
 
m0lt3n we need more.
Wil nie werk vandag nie, wil net DR lees so help ASB.

Sal nog met jou praat oor wat is n moet sien en wat kan gemis word want soos jy weet is dit ver van Durban af.
:sip:
 
Vis Arend said:
ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS said:
We then went to have a look at the Sossus canyons (name eludes me now)

Dink dis die Sesriem Canyon.
Hoe het julle daai twee terroriste besig gehou in die kar of het hulle na n rukkie uitgepass?

:thumleft:  Korrek, Sesriem.

Dis so genoem aangesien hulle donkiejare terug ses osriemme vasgemaak aan 'n emmer nodig gehad het om water uit die canyon te skep. 

Interessant Vis Arend

Chris dit was maar n storie. Ons kinders oor die algemeen okayerig met lang pad in die kar ry maar hierdie was bietjie next level vir hulle. Dit help dat hulle in die kar stoeltjies hoog genoeg in die Landy is om te kan uit sien, ek dink dit die grootste factor. Maar hulle het so uur elke dag geslaap ook en dan het ons so elke 3de dag prober n nuwe speeldingetjie gee. Ek was wel lekker boos toe my vrou R50 betaal vir n pers, n blou en n geel klippie!! En dan as die pad baie lank was die dag dan sal ons as laaste uitweg vir hulle die selfone gegee het om speletjies te speel, legkaarte bou en sulke goed.
Maar na die trip hou ek nou ook maar n oog uit vir hoe om skerms vir hulle in te sit in die 'headrests'. Ek het gedog dit n yappie foefie, maar kan definitief die nut sien. Die kar kan DVDs speel maar stop sodra mens ry, dan moet ons verder vir Lollos luister...



Ek moet om verskoning vra. werk is bietjie mal so ek vorder baie stadig. Sal probeer vandag bietjie plan maak. Daar was nog n paar goeie ekskursies om op te rapporteur. Die beste goed is mos die onbeplande goed....
 
The next day we went deeper into the famous Sossuvlei! If I can give a tip, really do try to do this early in the day, the sun was rough on us! There was a tar road inside which was a surprise, and then super frustrating as it had a speed limit of 60kmph on it. Come to think of it, the gravel road the previous day to the canyons was particularly bad, so I should have had more appreciation for this road. Anyhow, first stop was at dune 45 where we joined all the other tourists huffing and puffing up the dune. We took a lot of breaks as we were carrying the children. My daughter got hold of my water bottle halfway up and refused to give it back! She couldn't even open it... I also took a picture of the average parking lot. I did not see another Disco on the back roads, it really was mostly Germans in the self-drive rentals. Most of them hilux's with rooftop tents. In my opinion this picture also sums up the two types of car owners. Many (most) motivates Toyota dominance as the reason to buy Toyota vs not buying one exactly because of the dominance/commonness. I believe the car is to flippen expensive to just be another Toyota on the road and I was very happy with my choice on this tour. Anyhow, off topic...

After the dune we drove past Dooievlei to Sossuvlei and had a picnic there. Turns out that's all you can do there. It was a little bit of a let down. I did enjoy the sandy road though, there was some nice and extra sandy bits which the landy handled with ease. ITs got a nice feature where it automatically locks rear or centre diff as and when required, so you just go. Too easy. Coming back we stopped at Dooievlei but did not walk all the way, this time the heat was pretty rough and the children had had enough.

The night we camped at the place next to Sossus with the filling station. The camp site was okay it was just frustrating to break camp, move 40km and setup again. Poor planning on our side as we could have done an hour or two of the next days mileage already, Sossusvlei did not require as much time as we put aside for it. But the campsite was good and the next day we set off for Swakopmund. a long day.

The day was made even longer by us doing Remhoogte and Spreetshoogte pass as well as the road to Swakop. After a stop at Solitaire for the Appelstrudel (it was good, but the pies were awesome!) refuelling and some photos we did the two passes. Spreetshoogte being the nicer of the two it was a nice drive. It was soon forgotten though when we hit the C14 again to get to Swakopmund. It was very badly corrugated. Later on I deflated to 1.6bar but it did not help. I couldn't go lower as the tyres did not have a high enough profile but I seriously considered taking the risk anyhow. (255/55/R19)

We got to Walvisbaai in decent time, didn't like the town to much after a quick look over, and drove to our self catering for two(?) nights in Swakopmund.
 

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some more photos of the next day

solitaire obviously also have the compulsory pile of old car bodies...
 

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Baie mooi, met 'n kar bike fiets of te voet, daai plek bly maar mooi.  :thumleft: :thumleft:
 
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