Yesterday (Wed 23 Dec), I spent some time with the esteemed Adventurer chewing the fat while adding some more bling to the GSA.
During which time the self same Adventurer impressed upon me the importance of me finishing this RR, failing which I could find myself exiled from WD’s to the proverbial cyber Robin Island, with no chance of absolution.
Adventurer I cannot guarantee when day’s 9 to 12 will be posted but I can promise I will finish, thanks for the encouragement.
So in light of the potential dire consequences of me not returning from my RR hiatus, I humbly offer for your festive season reading pleasure – Day 8.
Much Love & may you be blessed this Xmas, from me & my family to you & yours
FREEDOM
Day 8 – (Part 2) Camp Elephant Song (S19 13.114 E13 27.275) – Epupa
Have you ever been to a wedding were some delightful old aunt of the groom, exit’s the bathroom with the back of her dress tucked into her pantyhose exposing her chunky white derrière, and in a state of blissful inebriation makes her way to the dance floor to do the Macarena, drawing gasps of embarrassment from all present.
Well I am feeling like that aunt Mavis, as my arrival at the OK Bazaars in Opuwa has caused some consternation amongst the Local’s. Clearly my star-trooper outfit is inappropriate attire for a shopping expedition, it’s as though some higher power has pressed the pause button because the entire store is frozen motionless watching me go about my business. I find this all quite surreal because here I am the odd one out attracting all the attention, but all around me are half naked woman & men in traditional dress shopping at the only OK bazaars for 100’s of kilometers.
Main street Opuwa
It’s only when I get back to donkey I realize the cause of all the attention, I have had a brain fart & forgot to take my helmet & sunglasses off and must have looked like Darth Vader in their OK Bazaars.
A very phallic ant hill
As I guide Donkey out on the C43 and head via Okangwati towards Epupa I find I am still seriously rattled by this morning’s turn of events and am incessantly plagued by the reoccurring thought of how close I stood to those Lion while inspecting my exit route. No matter how much I try thinking of other things and to focus on my surroundings and the road ahead, the replay of events keeps sneaking passed the sentinel’s of my consciousness. I think I am possibly experiencing the effects of delayed shock as reality is diluting my bravado. I am vacillating between a multitude of differing emotions, from anger at my negligence, to excitement of the adrenaline rush, to loneliness, to missing home and my family.
My encounters with Himba along the road are becoming more frequent, my initial response to them is one of general disinterest, as I mistakenly regard their whole ”theme” as pandering to the hordes of tourists by “dressing up” so as to receive payment in return for a few photo’s.
On my travels around the world I have seen locals dressed as gladiators at the colosseum in Rome, Matadors in Barcelona, Superhero’s in Hollywood all with the same intention.
This logic is flawed however as I venture further north and discover that there are more and more tribes of Himba, and that their culture is very real, this is not some random act of cultural prostitution for the sole purpose of earning a bit of money. I have no doubt that they benefit from their exotic looks by expecting payment if you want a photo, but their way of life is authentic and they appear to be proudly hanging onto their heritage despite an ever encroaching western modernisation . This was not a people imprisoned by our fascination with them. I am becoming quite enchanted with these exotic remnants of a rapidly eroding Africa.
This was now more an Africa I recognized & romanticized about, Uis was the last town I passed through that hankered back to its colonial past. Thankfully the German colonial influences did not reach this far north in Namibia.
Epupa appears amidst an oasis of vivid, lush, welcoming green, hugging the banks of the Kunene River, starkly contrast against the background of the fawn arid bushveld with its Baobab tree’s forlorn of leaves with branches outstretched pleading for rain.
Epupa falls lodge is exactly the remote, rustic, riverside bush camp I need to have me reveling in the beauty of the Kunene River & Epupa Falls. I could not have created a more picturesque location for the Apex of my northward journey, even if the good lord had given me a palette of water colors to paint it myself.
My lodging for the night
It’s been a long day, compressed with a lifetime of emotions & experiences but I am here now & life is good!