Niassa, Chucky Norris and John the Baptist.

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The next morning dawns slow and peaceful.

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Brian’s spot.

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Ablutions

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We hit the road, we are going to be passing through Lichinga again on our way east.

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Everybody is feeling perky today.

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And we get the right kind of roads too, nice and fast.

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Many of the villages we pass through have specially made structures for shade. 

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When we hit Lichinga again we have lunch and as chance would have it we meet Warrick, an ex-South African. He farms in the area that we are going to be travelling through today and we are invited to stay over on his farm.

This is very fortunate as Lichinga is our last fuel stop for the next 600 odd km. He will cart our fuel drums to the farm.

Leaving us to steek it without all that dead weight.

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This river later cuts through the farm.

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When we pull up at the farm we introduce ourselves to his wife, Fenn, who immediately offers us something cold and sends us to the river to swim with the kids. This river is right below their house, and it supplies their drinking and irrigation water all year round.

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We spend most of the afternoon in Fenn’s lovely company, Warrick only arriving at about 21H00 from town with our beers.

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Some of you will remember when Moz invited commercial farmers from SA and Zim to relocate to underdeveloped areas of the country. The basics were that you get the land for free as long as you create a farming enterprise from scratch.

Warrick and Fenn came here to an area of complete wilderness, and have turned it into a sizable well developed farm.  Hectares have been cleared, irrigation installed and thousands of cashew trees planted. Still some years to the first harvest, but I am mightily impressed by what Warrick is creating here by himself. I certainly have neither the skill nor the tenacity required.

For instance, he has a generator and irrigation pump running off a Land Cruiser engine 24 hours a day. Except this engine is not running on petrol or diesel, it is running on wood. Check this out.

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The first cylinder is burning the wood, the suction of the engine pulls the gases down so that there is no flames or smoke, just glowing coals. These unburned gases then moves through the next cylinder which uses water to cool it. What the third one does I do not remember, but this gas then goes straight into the inlet manifold where the carburetor normally would be.

Like so.

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Amazing stuff, a R24 000 a month diesel bill sent packing.

Like I said before, on every trip I learn some new shit.

Hopefully Fenn will follow her dream to have a guesthouse here, it will be the only one in a radius of several hundred km. They are wonderfully hospitable people and a treat to talk to.

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On top of eating like kings, having cold beers and sleeping in a proper bed, we are also lucky enough to be joined by some professional hunters that will pass through Mavago the next day. We also are to travel through Mavago and they offer to drop our fuel at the government office there.

Most excellent, this takes our fuel far enough that we will now certainly have enough to reach the next fuel quite comfortably. One of our main obstacles sorted.



 
Welcome back. Not a moment too soon. Shit, I thought I was going to have to join my family watching re-runs of Idols!
 
Fantastic :thumleft:

I dig that wood burning engine - never seen anything like it 8)


Just be careful of over-stepping the forum porn rules:  :biggrin:
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growweblaar said:
Fantastic :thumleft:

I dig that wood burning engine - never seen anything like it 8)


Just be careful of over-stepping the forum porn rules:  :biggrin:
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yip, and rule # 1 is: NO NAKED MEN

:biggrin: :biggrin:
 
popipants said:
yip, and rule # 1 is: NO NAKED MEN

:biggrin: :biggrin:

I would post it on the "Nurse EV" thread, but then I'm stuck with it on 'New replies'  for the rest of my life  :biggrin:

And that's just a tad metro-sexual, even for a Capetonian.
 
Great stuff!  Vintage MJ: beers, bars and beautiful women!  Oh yes, some spectacular riding too.  With a great eye for composing outstanding photos.  Keep it coming man!
 
growweblaar said:
popipants said:
yip, and rule # 1 is: NO NAKED MEN

:biggrin: :biggrin:

I would post it on the "Nurse EV" thread, but then I'm stuck with it on 'New replies'  for the rest of my life  :biggrin:

And that's just a tad metro-sexual, even for a Capetonian.

Wow, what a sexy ass !!!!!!!!!!!

You also have to agree that THAT is ART !
 
Nardus said:
growweblaar said:
popipants said:
yip, and rule # 1 is: NO NAKED MEN

:biggrin: :biggrin:

I would post it on the "Nurse EV" thread, but then I'm stuck with it on 'New replies'  for the rest of my life  :biggrin:

And that's just a tad metro-sexual, even for a Capetonian.

Wow, what a sexy ass !!!!!!!!!!!

You also have to agree that THAT is ART !

No, I think it's an ism!

;D
 
Stunning story and pics. My kop is te plat om te verstaan hoe daai waterpompenjin werk!!!C.
 
Wow! very nice MJ! Keep them rolling... :ricky:

Hoe sê hulle... BOER MAAK 'n PLAN! What feet of engineering that engine is!!!
 
Today is the day that we get to Reservo do Niassa.

Reservo do Niassa is the reason we came on this trip.

The reserve is massive. Twice the size of Kruger National Park. It’s northern boundary is the Rio Rovuma, the border between Moz and Tanzania. It’s western and southern boundary is the Rio Lugenda. Around the park are what is called buffer zones. These  zones are hunting concession areas. Check it out.

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Aerial surveys have shown it to have 12000 elephants, 6000 lions etc.

It has always just been wilderness and was only proclaimed in the 90’s. Tourists are rarely seen. The ones that do come here get flown in from Pemba by the hunting concession holders. The reserve has only one official entrance, coming up from Marrupa. We are not using that entrance.

The riding is easy, nice hardpacked track with the odd rut. The only thing that upsets the cart are the bridges. Every couple of kms we cross small streams that cut across the path. The bridges are made of raw logs suspended lengthways. Like this

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Of course, I have to be the first schmuck that gets it wrong.

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I’m thankful for the axle nuts though.

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Every one is different and I inch my way across. The bloody logs does not have a flat top, it is round and tend to not only go up and down but also bend from side to side with knots sticking out here and there.

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Just like every where else in Moz that we have ridden to date, the miombo woodland has been burned and clear cut in vast areas. The locals build their houses and then start clearing the forest around it until they have to travel about 30km to get to the edge. Then they abandon their homes and move to start the cycle again. What I do notice is that the trees are cut off about a meter above the ground. Presumably so that it can regenerate for the future.

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On this picture you can see how the trees are cut higher up.

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This is what the virgin bush looks like. Miombo woodland, no thorns, just like Nardus said it would be.

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When we get to Mavago we create quite a stir. The moment I remove my helmet a general shout goes up : “Chucky Norris, Chucky Norris!”  I’ve been called Vincent Van Gogh before but never Chucky Norris.

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We fetch our fuel drums from the government offices and fill the bikes and 20l containers each.

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We try to sit down to enjoy a warm to hot beer but we get crowded so badly that we can’t seem to breathe in the stifling heat. I am very used to drawing crowds in rural areas, but here it is just extreme. Kids crowd right up against us. It seems the only white people that come here are people on organized safaris and they don’t step out of the Land Cruisers.

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We are just about halfway through our beer when a local policeman tells us to put it down and follow him to the office. We get ushered into the office of what I gather to be the regional head of the police. Here we are interrogated on what our mission is and which one of us is the leader. Again we find it next to impossible to explain that we are just friends riding bikes because we like to. This goes on for quite a while and I am concerned about our bikes standing in the village unattended. It turns out that they are concerned that we have come to abduct their children! Freaky.

Finally after taking down all our passport and vehicle details we are released and we part on friendly terms. Not wanting to spend much more time in Mavago we hit the road.

When we stop for a break some time later there are hundreds of little muggies trying to force their way into our mouths, noses, eyes and anything that is wet.

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I find it easier to bear the heat and give the muggies the finger.

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And the log bridges continue.

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I get the feeling that most of them are rebuilt every year after the rainy season. This is what the construction looks like.

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Some are better than others.

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Late afternoon and we are now well into the park. We start looking for a place to camp, but it is difficult to find an open area.

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Hennie is still dealing with the remains of his stomach bug.

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And we still cross one log bridge after the other. On the sparse ones like this I walk next to the bike.

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Brian though, rides many of them at speed and seems to get away with it. I try to follow suit and I pay the price. As I am just about across the bridge my back wheel slides off a log and gets thrown sideways. I stamp down hard with my left foot to avoid going down and I save it. Unfortunately this move exceeds the design specification of my foot and I am the unhappy recipient of a blue ankle. Brian’s wife had packed some serious painkillers though, and I remain indebted to her.

When we finally make camp in the dark, my hammock comes into it’s own. I have progressively trip after trip become obsessive as far as weight saving goes. Every trip I have paired down and paired down until I am so lean on packing that I have excess space left over.

Look here for instance, that black bag on the rack carries everything except my tent. It has my clothes, personals, food, water, bedding, spares and tools. When on a trip where fuel is not an issue, the saddle bags are empty. Here they carry only fuel, 10l a side.

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I read a ride report of a solo Trans-Africa traveler once. He mentioned that his hammock was the single piece of kit that gave him most pleasure. That stuck with me and on this trip, seeing as I had loads of space, I packed a hammock and a camp stool. Believe me the hammock is heaven. Especially when you have a sore foot. I will include one on all future trips where possible.

We finally go to sleep in a burned area of forest. Bright moon and deathly silence.

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Nee man!!!! Moenie nou stop nie
 
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