The Unforgiven Trail - and the legends that tamed it

[Hardy de Kock]

The decision to wake the riders up early was made to ensure all the riders got back to camp in the daylight. This day's route included our previous route but it was 200% longer this time around.
a Few of the bikes had illnesses and time provision had to be included in the route plan to allow for punctures, falls, injuries, group photos in Van Zyl's Pass, Marienfluss, Rooidrom etc.

I woke them up with Xavier Rudd's "Follow the Sun" which usually ensures that they get out of their sleeping bags with a smile on their face and this time was no different.

After breakfast most of the group left in the correct direction of our trail.... Thanks to Gerry the guilty ones was made aware of their mistake after which they did a 180 and sped back, after the others - this time in the correct direction.
Chantal and myself made our way through the Otjiho Plains and made our way east, just behind @hartebees (Jaco's) dust.

I love this part of the country and the diverse terrain you encounter (on a bike or in a 4x4) in some places leaves you breathless.
We stopped to pump the Cruiser's wheels at one of the many Baobab trees found on this trail and carried on as we tried to catch up.

At a very thick sand section on the trail we found Jaco and one of the riders who came of second best in this almost fesh fesh pit.

Just as this rider got out I saw Justin and Martin arriving from behind us. They unfortunately made a navigational mistake but luckily realised it in time and were working their way back towards the rest of the group. I advised them to ride around the sand pit to try and save them some time. One of the riders listened and one didn't.

After we helped the rider and his bike back up we all got underway and a little later we found the group where they were resting next to a few Mopane trees on the 40km point that we all agreed on before departure.
The group got underway soon after that and for a good while we were treated to trouble free driving and riding whilst embracing the unspoilt wilderness that this place is.
At the split on the trail we saw that a few riders turned right and that meant we had to go and find them. Jaco called me over the radio and told me that he spoke to one of the locals who told him that the riders who missed the turn to the left realised their mistake and cut through the veld to join up with the trail. Without knowing it this old man saved us valuable time.

We found Jean and Andrew next to the track just before a steep rocky climb standing over what seemed to be a dead DR.
The casing was shattered and with it the smile on Jean's face. After a failed attempt to make ourselves believe we could revive this DR in the veld we loaded the bike and Jean. Just before we left we saw Pierre (Jean's brother) and Johan Liebenberg making their way down the rocky climb on foot. They walked back to check on Jean as the realised something was wrong. Not willing to ride that rocky climb again they walked 2km back on the track to find their brother/friend.
Well done guys.
I gave them a lift back to their bikes and carried on trying to make up the time we lost due to the ill DR.

I have had this scenario many times before on tours. a Rider takes a fall and his bike breaks so severe that we are unable to repair it. I remember wondering how Jean was going to react to the situation he seemingly found himself in now.

We arrived at Van Zyl's Camp, just before Van Zyl's Pass and found the riders waiting at the entrance to the camp. One or two nasty comments were thrown in Jaco's direction about us not being three minutes behind them as we promised. I laughed it off for the ridiculous comment it was and realised that the trail was taking its toll on some of the guys. I quickly briefed the riders on what they could expect in the pass. I told them that it would take at least 90 minutes to do this pass, based on past rides where the guys took their time to enjoy this place that they will probably only see once in their lives, gathered at the viewing point for a group picture and assist one another down the infamous step. Bart made the comment that it can be done in 30 minutes.
I responded by saying that I will pay back anyone who made it in 30 minutes their tour fee.
I can honestly say that I did not think it was possible to cross this very technical pass, top to bottom in 30 minutes.

Enter @dirtWarp and his appetite for speed and a tempting wager....

Pierre or @dirtWarp as we know him here, managed to ride VZP in 22 minutes, all the way down to the rock monument at the bottom. Well done Pierre - it is really fast.
I hope you come and spend your winnings with us again next year on this tour.

The ride through the pass went without issues up until we found Jaco Noteboom standing next to his bike. Jaco's ass has been taking a beating (from the seat chafing ) over a few days and his face was a picture of pent up pain when we stopped next to him.

The decision was made that Chantal would drive the Cruiser, I would ride the 500 belonging to @hartebees (my ex bike) and @hartebees would ride Jaco Noteboom's bike.
I almost always get myself into a position where I have to ride a bike down the pass without any gear. Luckily I knew this bike and all went well. Chantal drove the Cruiser through the step without flinching and we all gathered at the bottom where @ETS and some of the other riders were waiting. I got back in the Cruiser and off we went to enjoy the Marienfluss.

Jaco Noteboom again attempted to ride but finally called it a day just after Rooidrom. I again rode the 500 and I must say that I really enjoyed this section where I could allow the 500 to do what it does best. I remember passing @Aprilian in Jan Joubert Pass and at some point Gerry and I had some fun with the bikes all the way into camp.

Later that evening we started to work on Jean's DR (it has been discussed here and I won't bore you with my version of what happened there.)
It was a good day - and it was made even better by Sharon and Allan's stew that has been cooking away since early that day.

 

[dirtWarp]

Ek wil baie, baie graag weer volgende jaar daar wees Hardy, en daardie winnings kom blaas!

Sal wel die Oktober variant moet wees, want op 17Mei 2024, word my ma 80 jaar oud.

 

[hartebees]

One of the riders listened and one didn't.

 

[petri oosthuizen]

That Honda CRF 300....mooi geloop??
Im curious....Nice bike
Edit : And is it stock, stock suspension etc?

 

[Hardy de Kock]

That Honda CRF 300....mooi geloop??
Im curious....Nice bike
Edit : And is it stock, stock suspension etc?

Die 300 het puik vertoon.

 

[hartebees]

Day 7 – Marble Camp to Purros

Today’s ride would be a new one, even for the veterans. The track goes east after the Otjiha plains and then gradually become more technical, until we drop into a canyon which eventually joins up with the Hoarusib river. Anyone that enjoys riding riverbeds would be in for an absolute treat today.

As stated before, Justin’s DRZ’s clutch cable gave up and this seemingly meant the end of his trip (in terms of riding). He was going to ride to Purros with Greg in the Unimog. Although this must a super disappointing day for any rider, one thing that this enables is that you can actually “see” a lot more of the area.

We started a bit later than normal, around 10:30, as the distance for the day is 144km and everyone wanted to recover a bit from yesterday.

At exactly 42km into the day’s ride I saw Gerry and Jaco N riding slowly from the front. Martin had a crash on his 990 and they were looking for his axle nut. Apparently, after having fiddled with his brake pads the morning, he had breakfast in the middle of his work and seemingly forgot to tighten the pinch bolts or axle nut on his front wheel. So while he was cruising at around 60km/h everything was great until suddenly it was not. I’m not sure exactly how it went down (Martin can tell us himself) but the front end of the bike was in a very poor state and the bike also would not start.

Since we already had the DRZ on the bakkie we couldn’t load the 990 and we would come back for it either later today or tomorrow, as tomorrow is a planned rest day.

Martin took his valuables off the bike and got on the back of the bakkie, taking over the crows nest position from Jean.

The landscape for the next 25km was amazing, with each vista having a better view than the one before. Mount Okandjombo and other interesting shaped koppies lined the landscape, with many interesting trees and plants growing on top of them. It was now around midday, temperature well north of 30 degrees.

Just as before we got to the crossing were we turn into the canyon, I saw Conrad and Steve riding very slowly in front of me. Steve had a front wheel puncture and was looking for a shady spot to stop. About a kilometre later they stopped under a tree where others were also having a rest.

Pinch flat. We replaced the front tube, using one that a rider had placed in the spares box. Steve proceeded to ride about 1km before he stopped again - front wheel was flat again. Took out the tube - a seam running right around the tube had separated. So someone put an old, buggered tube in the spares box. We tried to see the funny side in it but it was a bit hard while working in the sweltering heat. Anyway, we put a proper tube in this time and off he went.

Now we were in the canyon, riding a dry riverbed which had stoney areas. It was fun but hard work, especially for the guys on the bigger bikes. I recall Conrad remarking that he enjoys riding bike but that this was now starting to not be as fun anymore. I think quite a few riders echoed his sentiment in their helmets. The Unforgiven Trail was showing its teeth.

Underneath a big tree about 10 or so riders were having lunch. As we rode up to them I felt my rear wheel squirming – flat. It was also here that Jean informed us that the fabricated cover of the DR650 was beginning to fail and that he would not be able to ride any further. At this point Conrad, Andrew, Robert and some others decided to try and make one whole Suzuki from the two broken ones by transplanting the clutch cable from Jean’s bike onto Justin’s. It was not a perfect fit but they made it work, so the DR650 went back on the bakkie, Martin hopped on the DRZ, Jean took Jaco Noteboom’s WR450 and he got on the bakkie. After all the shuffling the convoy moved forward, tackling kilometer after kilometer of thick riverbed sand.

At one point Steve on the 890R was taking a breather and I asked him if we could swop bikes for a bit. He agreed and for the next 20km I was really enjoying the smooth power of the 890R in the sand. Steve also enjoyed a break from wrestling the heavy bike and was making the most of the freedom that the 500 now gave him to have fun in the sand.

We started encountering some wet patches, indicating that we had joined up with the Hoarusib river. Conrad saw two elephants in the distance but we only heard about it after we had passed the point. We were also running a bit behind schedule so we did not turn back.

The vegetation became thicker and thicker and at one point I asked Hardy to go ahead of the riders to check for elephants.

Just as the thick vegetation started to clear, a wet patch that had turned into quicksand caught the Cruiser unawares and it got properly stuck.

To be continued…

 

[hartebees]

 

[m0lt3n]

View attachment 835261

hahaha sies!

EK en kameras werk nie lekker saam nie! EN jy sou nou ook nie my recovery af neem toe ek besluit skroef dit en RY hom nie.

 

[hartebees]

An attempt was made to dig the wheels free and pack some rocks underneath them. Everyone present helped with this operation – it is much appreciated. However it proved to a fruitless endeavour. Hardy was able to reach Hein, the manager at Purros Bush Lodge, on his satellite phone and make arrangements. This was incredibly fortunate and saved us at least 3 hours – the alternative was that I would have to ride to camp which was still 30km away.

Greg would make sure his recovery equipment is packed, get in his Unimog and drive in our direction. I would meet him on the way, with the rest of the riders making their way to camp. Once I met Greg I would stash my bike underneath a bush and hop in with him to take him where the bakkie was located.

Before the bakkie got stuck, Jean and Jaco N had swopped places on the WR450 so it was Jean that stayed behind with Hardy and Chantal while the rest of us moved ahead. We were about 8km away from the hard track that runs next to the river back to camp, so once we could get there, things would be a lot easier. However this last bit was also the most treacherous with numerous drop-offs, marshy areas, thick vegetation and rock piles that we needed to get through. The sun was now setting and it was a race against time to get the riders to camp before dark. When we eventually got to the exit, Pierre DV and Jaco N had disappeared - they were still somewhere in the canyon. I asked Martin to escort the present riders back to camp and I went back to look for Jaco and Pierre. About 3km or so back up the river I found them – they had missed the track and ended up in a dead end amongst the bushes. I was very glad when I found them because if they were still lost when it became dark it would have been a terrible situation. We started heading back to camp, while I stopped periodically on top of the koppies to try and reach Greg on the radio. Eventually I got hold of him – he had covered about 10km in 90min of driving. That’s how difficult it is to manoeuvre the Unimog over that terrain. And this was still the “easy” road!

When we met up with Greg he told me that the other riders passed him a short while ago. Pierre V was with him in the Unimog which was a welcome form of help as he could now take my bike and escort other Pierre and Jaco N back to camp. Thanks for your help Pierre!

Greg and I now continued onwards. Like I said the going was slow (impossible to go much faster than walking pace) and we still had about 13km to the entrance of the canyon and then about 7km in the canyon itself to where the bakkie was located. We passed a large group of giraffe on the way and with the sun setting behind them it was a special moment I could capture on video.

When we got to the entrance of the canyon it was just dark. Very dark. To me it seemed pitch black outside the beams of the headlights. Now we had to navigate up this canyon in the darkness. It had to try and remember the terrain from before. Following the bike tracks was not an option as they passed through areas where the Unimog could not fit. If we made a mistake here and got stuck in the sand or mud we would be properly fucked. At many points I got out and with only my cellphone torch had to walk up and down trying to find a place the Unimog could pass. I had to test the wet areas to see if they were soft and at times break branches to make a clearing. And Jean will agree with me that being in that canyon after dark is a very scary experience! It feels like a wild creature (of which many live there) could attack you at any moment.

So with a great effort we covered every meter towards the bakkie. Then, all of a sudden, we see an orange glow coming from ahead. The canyon was on fire! As we get closer we start seeing massive flames coming from where the bakkie was….

 

[hartebees]

hahaha sies!

EK en kameras werk nie lekker saam nie! EN jy sou nou ook nie my recovery af neem toe ek besluit skroef dit en RY hom nie.

Dankie Martin, nou dat ek die reaksie by jou gekry het waarvoor ek gevis het sal ek voortgaan en jou redemption hier wys.

 

[hartebees]

We passed a large group of giraffe on the way and with the sun setting behind them it was a special moment I could capture on video.

 

[hartebees]

As we get closer we start seeing massive flames coming from where the bakkie was….

 

[m0lt3n]

Ek is al weer n dag agter.(my familie lees ook, so nou word ek herinner...en almal wil my weergawe van dag 7 hoor. sug)


my dag 6.
I started latching onto Justin here. He had a nice pace, very consistent and I liked it. I could still stop for pics and catch up again if I push it. Worked lekker for me, except this morning he didnt follow the tracks so well and I didnt think for myself, so we did 40km extra, which is a lot in this terrain. But we did manage some pics of a lonely man he missed on day 5.

My day was okay. went well. I have read many times that VZP is not the difficult bit, but all the little passes before and after and that is how I experienced it as well. Bart summed it all up well, RELENTLESS.
On the big bike this was a tough day. I was also not expecting all the thick sand sections inbetween some tricky rock sections. Anyhow, other than my tip over that was shown by Hartebees earlier I had two more tip overs.
Following the track I saw a track veering off to a nice big baobob so I followed it and prompty got reminded, not for the first time 'dont follow a 500!'
Turns out it was Fred and he jumped a ditch there, more than half a meter drop I had to do a flippen hard brake, tipped over when front wheel was already over the edge. Got up and went through. I did not want to jump it as jumping into thich sand can not end well.
Got my pic at Baobob though.

Day went well further although there was some times the fatigue really got to me.
VZP was a nice experience for me. I found Fred on top of the lookout at VZP and had a quick chat and took the vid. very surreal moment. VZP has been a bucket list for me for a long time, a big one. It was nice finally being able to do it, logistics to get to experience this is a nightmare, unless you pay up for a tour like this. Worth it.


Going down VZP I chose to take it save, especially with cameras on me again, so I switched off engine and braked with clutch. Not so elegant but effective, gritting my teeth for the rattling brake discs.
Just after the steps there is a tricky rocky descent. Robert and Werner did not want to disturb me lumbering down so they went around me, Werner was a little overeager or fast and ended up going down VERY fast, it was quite the show, that 500 hopping down rocks on the front wheel. Impressive riding on an impressive bike, I lumbered on.

At the bottom we all took a break, I think we were the front group again. Thereafter I took it calmly throught he Marienflusch sands, think doing 80, very nice moment. Took my pics at the red drum and continued on.
It was turning out to be a very long day, and Red drum pass just before camp was rather unsuspectingly tough. Big rocky climb just reiterating the relentlessness of the day. to top it off, 30km from camp my fuel light also came on. not the first time this trip my bike would be giving around 10kmpl.

I think I must have double the next worse fuel consumption for the trip.

anyhow, I would be fixing my rattling brake discs that night and show that pesky fuel light who is boss the next day!

 

[m0lt3n]

My take on day 7.
After hammering the rattle out of my floating disc, we struggled a bit to get the brake in place and keep it in place when putting the wheel back. Tried again and again till eventually it was sorted. Left the bike, packed my kit, got to bike again and saw the pad fell out again. Seems like somewhere my wheel wasnt replaced correctly and there was a groove cut into the caliper which was supposed to hold the pad in place. Not cool, I would need a new caliper.
Struggled a bit more and it was in place. I consoled myself the pad was already chowed skew badly so I will just not try to use my front brakes much and see what I can do the next day re blanking of the one disc/caliper.

Well, not far into the trip I felt I had no front brakes, stopped and saw the disc haning again. Decided screw it and rode off to only hear a clang and see it fly by me. Okay, so now I really had zero front brakes for the day.
1km further I realized how important front brakes are when I hit a ditch way to hard, one of those hits where your feet hurt, so I took it slow.
Few km further we were on a nice flowing gravel road and I could pick up speed, but not to much.
I was probably doing 60kmph, just after a blind rise which I took slow, when I realized I wasnt riding my bike anymore but sliding next to it, no warning, berm of the road was fast approaching and you know you are a passenger now. I rolled a bit when I hit the berm but fortunately I hit no rocks.
Bike was not so fortunate. It took a big blow in the face. The complete speedo cluster was bent over the handlebars and I couldnt even turn the key.

When ETS stopped by me I had already picked up the bike and was looking at it, getting that cold feeling looking at the bike that I really screwed up this time. the grab screws supposed to hold axle in place was loose, not even hand tight, loose loose. I could only blame myself.
Oh, and I dont have insurance, nice the thoughts that then pass through your head.

Anyhow, put the wheel back, it will be necessary to load the bike anyhow. Took a pic and I was riding bakkie shotgun.

A day I would like to forget.

 

[petri oosthuizen]

View attachment 835351

.........and??
Sorry or did I miss something??
STUNNING Pics from Everyone by the way, thanks!!!

 

[m0lt3n]

The ride on the back of the bakkie on the DRZ wasnt to bad. Its actually very funny how when the going gets tough you will stand up on the pegs as well!
we helped Steve with 890 and were off again. I really believe tubeless rims love snake bites unless you ride them very hard, after the puncture Steve increased pressure and I dont think he had another issue.
Jaco was being very nice here, or very gat-sore, and gave the WR450 for me to ride. I dont know small bikes at all and struggled to gell with the bike, but it was still fun. It would probably have been better had I rode it after the DRZ episode coming next, getting acclamatized first.

After a not-so-long-while we met up with the 650 and its drama.
and I realized this will be an issue for me, so I really tried nicely here to convince all that we should really try to get the clutch cable of this suzuki onto the other and it became the plan.
Selfish me realized if you were to recover two bikes the next day it will be a mission and a ling day, meaning no time to work on the 990 to get it going. I was very relieved when the plan worked and the bikes could be swopped.
I dont know how it came to be that I was to ride the DRZ400 but I have to say a big thanks to Justin here, its a flippen champ! This bike really is like cheating. It just putters through, over and around everything. I had a good day's riding.

I remember one spot in the river bed, following Andrew's tracks taking it wide where the sand was fresh around a big tree, there was a big hole in the ground, probably 2m2! Dont know if it was where elephant dug for water but I just missed it, catching it on the edge. Almost rendered two bikes poegaai.

Ater the cruiser getting stuck, this pic was actually supposed to be a video but my celphone screen was broken due to the fall so I got it wrong, but it was taken seconds before the cruiser got stuck.
And also great pic of Andrew making friends with his dust cloud.

oh and I found another limit this day! The limit to Hartebees's patience!
we were collecting rocks to stack under the cruiser wheels and I managed to splash some water in his face. I really felt bad, extra so when I realised everyone had a limit, even the ever helpful and calm Jaco, he really bit on his tongue not to cuss me out.
Would have been fine Jaco to give it to me!

The last 5km in sunset ride to camp on this day was epic. And even more so when we rode by plenty of giraffe and me that could just chill on the relaxed and quiet DRZ. Epic ride that afternoon.

 

[hartebees]

That Honda CRF 300....mooi geloop??
Im curious....Nice bike
Edit : And is it stock, stock suspension etc?

@Blackspar by ‘n steil gedeelte van Van Zyls. Die 300 loop gemaklik soos ‘n klipspringer daar.

 

[Puls0nic]

Ek was nog altyd 'n fan van kleiner adv bikes

 

[sidetrack]

@Blackspar by ‘n steil gedeelte van Van Zyls. Die 300 loop gemaklik soos ‘n klipspringer daar.

View attachment 835384

Lekker

 

[Hardy de Kock]

@Blackspar by ‘n steil gedeelte van Van Zyls. Die 300 loop gemaklik soos ‘n klipspringer daar.

View attachment 835384

Ja nee kyk, as daar nou een ou is wat my verbaas het met hoe vinnig hy die Kaokoland baasgeraak het is dit Pierre de Villiers.
Baie respek vir hom en sy broer bygekry op die toer.
Dis jammer die video wys nie regtig hoe steil die deel is nie