The Unforgiven Trail - and the legends that tamed it

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Stunning stuff
Thanks for sharing
I especially LOVE those lonely men "pieces".....SO cool🤩🤩
 
Day 6 – Marble Circle Route Over Van Zyls Pass

An early start – we need to use all the available daylight today if we want to return to camp before dark. The plan is to cover more than twice the distance we normally do in this area. The distance is 180km long but the terrain is unrelenting – loose sand, rocky hills, mopane mazes… the riders will have a hard day, without a doubt.

Previous mornings I noticed Johan and Gerry doing some stretching exercises while the others were still sleeping. Being in high spirit the previous evening I told Johan I will join him for his morning routine. I felt a bit different about the matter when he shook me awake on my stretcher at 04:30 the next morning but I was committed to give it a try. I followed along as he did his pilates and had to confront the fact that a man twice my age was seemingly more flexible and energised than myself. Which was almost as difficult, but not quite as difficult to maintain the positions that Johan instructed me to do. I tapped out about 20 minutes after we started and slumped in a chair drinking coffee while Johan and Gerry continued on.

The crew started with the breakfast preparations and packing the bakkie. The plan was to have breakfast just before first light and leave as soon as visibility was good. However, Steve had a problem with his front wheel – it was losing air. We inflated the wheel the previous evening but now it was flat again. He damaged his tubeless rim of the 890 riding the Khumib the previous day on lowered air pressure. So we unstrap the tools from the bakkie and get to work fitting a tube to his wheel. This all while it was still dark.

Although we left a little but later than planned the sun was not yet out when we rode out of camp. However, just as we got the T-junction 200m further (where we turn left), Gerry was waiting to inform us that he saw two riders turn right and head north. Immediately he set off to catch them and turn them around, which took somewhere between 20 and 30 minutes in total. It had been Andrew and Steve on the T7 and 890 riding blissfully free of dust most likely trying to catch up to nobody in front of them.

With everyone back on track we head out over the Otjiha plains but turn east towards the Etanga road. The riding is fast and flowing but interspersed with dongas and riverbed crossings. At one such crossing where the sand was especially deep, coupled with an angled entrance, the T7 goes down. While we help Andrew remove his busted mirrors, Justin and Martin come from behind. They had not turned off towards the Etanga road and realised their mistake when they saw the same Lone Man as the day before.

A bit further down the road we pass two magnificent boababs and I stop for a photo at the second one. For the next 30km I had to constantly fight the urge to stop and photograph the trees – the most amazing baobabs, mopanes, maroelas and other wonderful plants in various shapes, colours and state of bloom. If like myself you have a thing for trees, this is like riding in heaven.

The day is progressing well we are making good progress. We are starting to climb up the embankment and as the track starts to noticeably incline, the surface becomes rocker and more loose. The next moment I see the blue Suzuki DR650 laying on its side. Andrew walks over and tells me we have a problem…

@JeanDV, maybe you can continue this next part so that we have it from the horse's mouth. Meanwhile I will post some photos.
 
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Day 6 – Marble Circle Route Over Van Zyls Pass

An early start – we need to use all the available daylight today if we want to return to camp before dark. The plan is to cover more than twice the distance we normally do in this area. The distance is 180km long but the terrain is unrelenting – loose sand, rocky hills, mopane mazes… the riders will have a hard day, without a doubt.

Previous mornings I noticed Johan and Gerry doing some stretching exercises while the others were still sleeping. Being in high spirit the previous evening I told Johan I will join him for his morning routine. I felt a bit different about the matter when he shook me awake on my stretcher at 04:30 the next morning but I was committed to give it a try. I followed along as he did his pilates and had to confront the fact that a man twice my age was seemingly more flexible and energised than myself. Which was almost as difficult, but not quite as difficult to maintain the positions that Johan instructed me to do. I tapped out about 20 minutes after we started and slumped in a chair drinking coffee while Johan and Gerry continued on.

The crew started with the breakfast preparations and packing the bakkie. The plan was to have breakfast just before first light and leave as soon as visibility was good. However, Steve had a problem with his front wheel – it was losing air. We inflated the wheel the previous evening but now it was flat again. He damaged his tubeless rim of the 890 riding the Khumib the previous day on lowered air pressure. So we unstrap the tools from the bakkie and get to work fitting a tube to his wheel. This all while it was still dark.

Although we left a little but later than planned the sun was not yet out when we rode out of camp. However, just as we got the T-junction 200m further (where we turn left), Gerry was waiting to inform us that he saw two riders turn right and head north. Immediately he set off to catch them and turn them around, which took somewhere between 20 and 30 minutes in total. It had been Andrew and Steve on the T7 and 890 riding blissfully free of dust most likely trying to catch up to nobody in front of them.

With everyone back on track we head out over the Otjiha plains but turn east towards the Etanga road. The riding is fast and flowing but interspersed with dongas and riverbed crossings. At one such crossing where the sand was especially deep, coupled with an angled entrance, the T7 goes down. While we help Andrew remove his busted mirrors, Justin and Martin come from behind. They had not turned off towards the Etanga road and realised their mistake when they saw the same Lone Man as the day before.

A bit further down the road we pass two magnificent boababs and I stop for a photo at the second one. For the next 30km I had to constantly fight the urge to stop and photograph the trees – the most amazing baobabs, mopanes, maroelas and other wonderful plants in various shapes, colours and state of bloom. If like myself you have a thing for trees, this is like riding in heaven.

The day is progressing well we are making good progress. We are starting to climb up the embankment and as the track starts to noticeably incline, the surface becomes rocker and more loose. The next moment I see the blue Suzuki DR650 laying on its side. Andrew walks over and tells me we have a problem…

@JeanDV, maybe you can continue this next part so that we have it from the horse's mouth. Meanwhile I will post some photos.
On day 6, unfortunately, my trip became a mix of bakkie-ry, squeezing life out of my DR650 and riding other motorcycles who’s owners needed a bit of R&R.

After about 60km into day 6 on a steady, marble stone, incline my front wheel got thrown out of the track and my DR and I took a little tumble, ending up in a “moerse gat” in my engine casing.

Andrew, Jaco, Hardy and Chantal arrived and after they took out the shrapnel from the casing, tried to seat the engine cover, this will become its own story later that evening which @Runner can tell.

Unfortunately time and the Kaokoland sun were against us and we decided to load the DR and catch up with the rest, leaving the mending work for later that evening.

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Day 6 - which consisted of TWO day's riding of last year, half in reverse direction so double the effort required... and I remembered both days, however for different reasons! And Van Zyl's Pass was part of this day, the most technical part of the entire trip, and keep in mind that the runup to this bit is just technical rocks also!

Distance-wise only ~180km's so not too bad, and I probably could do this on my 12L tank - but did not want to risk that, hate stranding with an empty tank, so planned on filling up from Hardy's cruiser somewhere.
Oh, on the 3rd day (mix of dirtroad, Klein Van Zyls, Klein Serengeti and the Schlucht's riverbeds) I found out my 300 2T returns around 17 km per liter - surprisingly frugal for a smoker, viva TPI!!!! (y) It also used VERY little 2stroke oil, just under a liter for the entire trip, which had me worried a little in the beginning because it took so little to fill up... but more on this later!

Us leaving at first light was also an indication of here-comes-shite, and the possibility of us arriving back in the dark was hardly confidence inspiring.... my candle up front I've never actually used in the dark, and you want me to ride that rocky pass/section close to Marble Camp (not Van Zyl's, that's way earlier) with that????
Nie ekke nie dankie, fok dit! Ek sal seker maak ek's daai tyd al by die kamp, en ek's klaar jammer vir die ouens wat dan nog daar gaan sukkel, shame, nie lekker nie....

I was looking really forward though to the Marienfluss, that wiiiiiide open, only sparsely populated with trees reddish sand plain which stretches to the mountains on all horizons, where I remembered (from 2 years ago, wasn't there last year) you ride wherever you want, as fast as you want easily veering between the few trees, and with hardly a lurker present, just hammer it..... BLISS!!! 👌

Anyway, I had planned to stock up on a few cold beers in Hardy's coolerbox - of course, a cold or at least cool Tafel along the hot route will go down a treat, so I stopped at the silver shed along the route just a kilometer away from camp and bought a sixpack.
Parked next to the road and just waited for Hardy's trok.... which took quite long because he had to wait for the 2 idjits to be reeled back in by Gerry (a rather quick bliksem when he wants to, let that be said!). Anyway, plenty of time to take a few pics (below), so when the cruiser finally arrived I dumped the beers in the box and set off, determined to catch a few riders en route!

I did too - the beginning was fast and flowing, then later the veering inbetween trees following the track was also quick, and in no time I caught up with the lot parked in whatever shade was available. This was after some 40km or so, as per agreed beforehand, we'd stop every 40km to wait for the rest and the bakkie.
Good idea..... except when shit happens!!!
You see, we all had a really long day ahead, and if we all can go&ride this would not be a problem - but that only happens in dreams, and we all know these do not come true....

Due to a couple of spills from various riders (or a puncture, can't remember anymore) sweeper Jaco and Hardy arrived only after a while - no problem....
.... yet!
But after we left and rode the next 40 km's we had to wait, really wait, in some shade yes but long - actually: LONG!
Can't remember the waiting time anymore but it was "too" long, especially considering the day lying ahead... this was not going to work, and note this was the general consensus of the group lazing under those trees!

Someone (I forgot who it was, sorry, chip in here please....) decided to ride back and check, and he came back with the news that Jean's bike was fubar due to a fall on rocks, oil verywhere.... and Hardy et al arrived not too long after that, indeed with poor Jean 'riding' on his seat of his bike strapped on the back of the bakkie in the blazing sun!
Shame yes - but also shame on all of us, as with this agreement (waiting for the bakkie every time we stop at certain intervals) we'd not finish by daylight!

This was discussed with Hardy, and to his credit he relented to 'stop regularly, take pictures, stop at the viewpoint at Van Zyl's, but you do not have to wait for the bakkie anymore, and please take is easy and stay safe' ... a necessary practical decision dictated by the time remaining & distance remaining both rather than his preferred safe approach, to keep in close proximity of those needing help in case of a problem.
Look, he's the one who ultimately takes responsibility for the riders of his tour, so I (we all did!) respect this and accept this, but this plan can be modded to 'ride safely on your own' when the need for such exist, and today was that day.
Anyway, some got water from the truck but I had a Tafel, plus filled up my tank - the opportunity for doing this now, I would have plenty to reach Marble Camp.

Off we went, only to regroup at Van Zyl's Restcamp, before the real technical rocks start.
Now this camp deserves some description, and I'm sure most (all?) of the first-time riders do not know this!
Van Zyl's Rest camp has it all, well, a lot: space aplenty, nicely raked campsites (all sand of course), plenty of large shade trees, sinks with decent dishwashing space, toilets, showers, thermal solar geysers for the showers and a PVsolar powered borehole pump to supply the required water, hell, in the past they even sold bundles of firewood there!
"In the past" yes, because since a few years there is no water anymore due to an absolute ZERO maintenance done by those who run this community camp - so no water, no showers, no hot water either, no toilets (they're kakked full, disgusting!), no firewood for sale, NOTHING is there anymore.... but yeah, of course you're expected to pay the full campfees whenever you rock up, and your argument like 'but what for, there's nothing here???' is brushed off as not-important!
Really?
They turn the received fees into quarts of beer, which after consumption are broken into an atrociously big heap behind some rocks there, this glass hill is impressive in size, and proof of 'civilization' having arrived here. A darn pity, as the camp itself, when properly maintained, is a nice one!

They did not sell anything here for the past two years (a small village along the route nearby sells beers!) but now they do: warm beers & cooldrinks! No fridge you see, too much effort I reckon....
We did buy a few of these during our regrouping-wait, and even Johan, of course seeing nothing as per his habit, turned back and found us there.... you didn't see any tracks anymore Johan? 😋

Anyway, from here on I didn't see the bakkie anymore, and this probably is valid for most of our group.
The runup to Van Zyl was surprisingly rocky, way more than I remembered from 2 years ago, and this is probably due to the big rains they had here a year ago - this must have washed away most of the soil inbetween the rocks, to such an extent even that 4x4's visibly have stacked rocks there where they need a 'ramp' of some sort, otherwise it simply cannot be driven over anymore.... it is bad now!

But with my 'cheater-bike' this was almost a non-event, Andrew even remarked there that I seemed to idle past them lol - maybe true too, the going was very easy here on a light bike! I quickly reached the Viewpoint before the actual Van Zyl's Pass. Took a few pics and went down Van Zyl's proper, but again this was quick and uneventful, contrary from what I remembered from 2 years ago... I'm a lot fitter now then what I was then, sure it makes a difference.
I reached the tree at the level plain at the bottom without even realizing it, and joined some others there for a lunch.

Then when some of us decided to leave I was on my bike too, eager for the Marienfluss bit that lied ahead!
Unfortunately, due to the grass present there, apparently so for quite a while already, a single jeeptrack was present instead of the wiiiide open 'ride wherever you want' plains I remembered.... but fug zis, I had an awesome trip anyway! :p
Glorious loose sand, two tracks to choose from, no obstacles near the track, and on a screaming twostoke which you simply steer with oodles of power on command.... what's not to like hmm?
Yes, I'm addicted, and this was what I had brought it for .... man it was awesome!!!

Then the reddish sand gives way to the normal yellowish stuff, and here also more jeeptracks exist - and I saw some had taken another route, and later heard that some even had taken the wrong route lol!
Anyway, this ended just too quick for my liking, and the famous Red Drum was coming up... and here I found myself in company of Fred, the fast old fox ;)
We took some pics there and set off again, Marble Camp wasn't too far anymore.

The sand gives way to some rocky stuff which just gets more rocky, and somewhere there's a narrow pass-like loose rocky incline which I also remembered - quite strange to see actually, as this is a wide landscape, which must have many other possibilities for a track? Not so it seems, this route is taken by all & sundry who pass here...
Anyway, Marble Camp is close now, and I reached it riding alone by this time, as Fred had fogged off ahead already.

It was around 3 o'clock, lekker early, surprisingly so in fact - great, beats riding in the dark any day I'd say! :giggle:
So I went off to see the Marble Mine close by - which I had not visited the previous times funnily enough, so was earger to see for myself this time! There I found a few others also curious, including Greg with his Unimog.
Worth having a look, and it will give you an idea how, with fairly primitive means, you can mine rock in a remote desolate area, impressive really! (y)

Back at camp I took a pic of smiling Martin working on his bike, he wanted to fix a rattling brake disk - which he did too!
As for him smiling though...... time will tell ;)

This was the BESTESTEST DAY by far sofar, and me not being tired was another thing I was happy about!
Thanks Hardy & team for a super day, and for a next trip keep this loopy route in please!
Ah yeah, on condition we can ride 'free' of course, and this group has proven that they can :cool:
 

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Ai, ek kyk maar kry nie veel van my fotos hier tussen die whatsapps nie.
anyhow.

eks agter, werk bietjie rof die week.
my dag 5 was rustig. Dit was maar n oop lekker vinnige dag so ons het so gemaak. Ek en Fred kon lekker laat loop. Ons het wel by n kar wrak gestop vir n foto en toe n Kameelperd op n afstand gesien net toe ons wou ry. Die outjie was heel nuuskierig en mens kon sien hy kom loer ons van nader. Nice foto gekry, sal hom later maar deel as ek hom opsoor.
By die infamous manchester bar was die vog nie besonder koud nie maar steeds welkom, hulle het verbasend goeie stock levels daar. Daar was wel n redelik knaende over-familiar local wat ons lekker laat lag het. Toe Gerry die dame agter toonbank se n koeldrank ekstra vir hom was hy baie vinnig op ons/haar dat hy eerder n bier sal vat. Hy het darm later voete gemaak toe hy ander wegjaag en se ons wil rustig wees en nie gepla wees nie, toe se ek hom dit geld vir hom ook.
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EK het nie besonder lank rondgele nie, was kamp toe en daar n uiltjie geknip voor almal opdaag.

namiddag het ons die verlate marble myn besoek. Baie geld wat daar le. Sommer so sonder helmet ry hoor ek toe hoe erg my briek skoene raas (n 990 issue) en ek besluit toe om iewers dit uit te sort. plaas ek dit net geignoreer.

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ons wil rustig wees en nie gepla wees nie, toe se ek hom dit geld vir hom ook

Verstaan ek goed, jy was lelik met Gerry - die niceste ou wat forever vriendelik is en altyd smile????
Jou vark, vra verskoning sommer onmiddelik!
:p
 
Ai, ek kyk maar kry nie veel van my fotos hier tussen die whatsapps nie.
anyhow.

eks agter, werk bietjie rof die week.
my dag 5 was rustig. Dit was maar n oop lekker vinnige dag so ons het so gemaak. Ek en Fred kon lekker laat loop. Ons het wel by n kar wrak gestop vir n foto en toe n Kameelperd op n afstand gesien net toe ons wou ry. Die outjie was heel nuuskierig en mens kon sien hy kom loer ons van nader. Nice foto gekry, sal hom later maar deel as ek hom opsoor.
By die infamous manchester bar was die vog nie besonder koud nie maar steeds welkom, hulle het verbasend goeie stock levels daar. Daar was wel n redelik knaende over-familiar local wat ons lekker laat lag het. Toe Gerry die dame agter toonbank se n koeldrank ekstra vir hom was hy baie vinnig op ons/haar dat hy eerder n bier sal vat. Hy het darm later voete gemaak toe hy ander wegjaag en se ons wil rustig wees en nie gepla wees nie, toe se ek hom dit geld vir hom ook.
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EK het nie besonder lank rondgele nie, was kamp toe en daar n uiltjie geknip voor almal opdaag.

namiddag het ons die verlate marble myn besoek. Baie geld wat daar le. Sommer so sonder helmet ry hoor ek toe hoe erg my briek skoene raas (n 990 issue) en ek besluit toe om iewers dit uit te sort. plaas ek dit net geignoreer.

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Interessant!!!!!
Dis dus 'n SOLID "berg" marble daai..........???
Lyk soos ou murasies, so mooi reguit is dit afgekap (hoe "myn" hulle dit..........watse masjiene??)
 
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