Travels through God’s own motorcycle country

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I started reading this last week and just got through the last of it.

Thank you Panda man! It really gave me my fill for a good few days running - now I am dreaming of Namibia again! (I was there on a solo ride on a DR600 more than 20 years ago, but a slightly less ambitious route . . .)
 
Max and co.
An absolute terrific RR!! Thanks for making your reality my dream. Hopefully in the near future I’ll have the privilege to own a bike again and ride some memories of my own.
 
What a fantastic RR and excellent pics!

I didn't realise you Capies had such a sense of humour!

I hope you can keep it after the Sharks kick your arses on Saturday!!!! ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)

Well done man. One day will be my turn!

Love Nam.
 
Yeah, this RR was okay :lol8:

Great job fellas.

Professor- yuda man.  I once wrecked my KTM 990.  Broke my shoulder blade and a thumb.  Fractured a few ribs.  Dislocated my shoulder.  Had to ride in a sports car to the emergency room.  I felt every seam on the tarmac, something dripping out me eyes after every seam for the 15 minute journey.  I cannot imagine riding in the back seat of a small 4x4 for several hours like you did.  Hats off to ya, you are one tough man.
 
Jirre, you have got to tell me where you bought these long johns. LOVE IT!!!!!

Besides a broken leg and abandonment of the 690, this looks like a super fun adventure you guys had together.

Thanks for the good read.  :thumleft:
 

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Fantastic guys! This just makes me want to return there now! A lot of time and effort went into this trip and the RR. Thank you!
 
MTP, need an advice pls. How bad was your fork leak on 500 when you decided to push on? And were you able to stop it somehow?

Looks like i busted fork seal on 500 in cotton mud in Savuti marsh, and need to decide if i can push through delta or bail. Thank you.
 
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Xpat try making a seal mate / saver and give it a bash for now

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I have just bought a seal doctor that will be packed in future since roof trip fork seal leak

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Good luck and be safe
 
MTP, thank you very much for taking us on tour travels, Xpat has been at me to do a Kaokoland trip with him in the future, think I need to update my TE610 Husky though with a 500KTM. Really enjoyed your write-up. Life is nothing if you don't have memories!
 
MTP we are not worthy!

This is proper magazine / book level writing and pictures.

Thank you for a) the cojones to do a trip like this b) the effort to take pics and notes along the way (did you write a mini diary or something - I've always found that the days blend together on a trip like this) and c) compiling such an epic trip report.

Apart from the obvious Van Zyl's Pass and the softer riverbeds, it looks like most of this would be doable in a 4x2 bakkie if one has a brain?

May be an amazing trip win my wifey as a scouting mission for a scoot adventure in a couple of years from now.
 
Xpat said:
MaxThePanda said:
Hardy had warned us off the Hoarusib River  - one of three riverbeds he said were particularly dangerous on a bike because of poor visibility and prevalent lion and elephant. In retrospect I’m glad we didn’t take that route to Puros - with how our day was going we’d definitely have been attacked, and the views and terrain approaching from the other angle were magnificent. But I’d still like to ride it - it looks the bizznizz.
...

Hmmm, I have to say I differ on this one. And - if I understand correctly the route Quest guys took, even Hardy did take the party through Huarusib. I agree that the section downstream from Purros (Purros Canyon - which I'm interested to see if you did) is potentially risky, as it gets narrow and you have to navigate sections of dense vegetation with very limited visibility.

But the section upstream from Purros, is a wide valley with very good visibility of potential hazards and enough room to avoid it safely. And you can either ride riverbed (which is wide and very transparent) or ride on the side of the river on very lekker winding double track, where you can see river to one side, but are mostly riding out in the open (with few detours to the river). And as far as I know (and I think Hardy may disagree on this one), there are no lions upstream from Purros. I have ridden it 4 times and always made sure to get the latest cricket intel from the locals. And the message was always clear - no lions north of Purros. I have tendency to believe them as you will often meet locals walking along the river and even kids playing soccer right next to it (and they do respect lions - they have abandoned one village in Huab river due to very high lion danger). Yes there is high probability of bumping into elephant, but your chances to see it coming are much bigger than in Ugab (that is tricky one), Purros canyon, or Huab river - part of which you have already ridden on the way to Sessfontein (if I understood your route correctly).

That upper section of Huarusib is absolutely fantastic (sorry, that horribly corrugated D3707 is no match whatsoever) and the pass between Khumib and Huarusib is also something special to behold. But at least you have something to come back to  8)

Now I'm really curious whether you did the Purros canyon - because that is the really dodgy one (right after Ugab IMO). If I understand it correctly, Quest guys also had to get out of there half way through when they bumped into aggro elephant.

And that luxury lodge in Purros - avoid as a plague! They really like to mix only with people with private jets. There is very friendly and relatively cheap community lodge (right next to the campsite) if you go that side again and do not fancy tenting.

Xpat

Myself and SkyAfrica on the forum, once found three lionesses 13 km north - east of the confluence of the Khumib and the Hoarusib.
I believe this to be a route that you still want to do. We were on our way down the Hoarusib from Opuwo, in a south westerly direction. All three the lions were un-collared. Fact is, after having spent over a year collectively in Purros - The lions and elephants, and sometimes rhino's too will go where the food is.
The riverbeds during drought will be the last source of foliage for the herbivores, which means the carnivores will follow.
Philip Stander and a few others monitor the lions as good they can, but there are a few nomadic un-collared prides (Usually the ones without dominant males).
The above mentioned vets are caught up in conflicts with the locals regarding the lions and their cattle, and sadly, these people prefer not to work in the Purros conservancy area no more.
During 2011 the locals poisoned 3 lionesses in Purros and caused an outcry (screengrab attached). These are not the lions I saw as our trip was in 2012.
They are there, and you only see them when you least expect to.
 

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Epic RR Ian - thanks for making the effort

I can't wait to retrace your steps on my fivehunny ...only about 40 sleeps to go
 
I just spoke to Fritz at Palmwag and he confirmed the following:

Nam government issued a restriction on motorcycles in the Hoanib river and the Crowter trail.
They are busy constructing notice boards which must be up by February 2018.

 
Hardy de Kock said:
I just spoke to Fritz at Palmwag and he confirmed the following:

Nam government issued a restriction on motorcycles in the Hoanib river and the Crowter trail.
They are busy constructing notice boards which must be up by February 2018.

Shit, ane we are heading there in March! Not a good news at all. Are they shutting down the whole of Hoanib, or only the part between Amerspoort gortge and turnoff to Crowther trail?
 
Hardy, is there any more information about the restriction on Hoanib. Is it for the whole length of river from Amerspoort gorge all the way to Sesfontein, or will one be able to connect to it closer to Sesfontein from Giribes plains or Ganamub river?

Thank you
 
Xpat said:
Hardy, is there any more information about the restriction on Hoanib. Is it for the whole length of river from Amerspoort gorge all the way to Sesfontein, or will one be able to connect to it closer to Sesfontein from Giribes plains or Ganamub river?

Thank you

XPAT - It is the entire Hoanib. Sorry bud.
Also have updated info on Upper Hoarusib if you need.
 
Well, that is a massive bummer - I hoped to still be able to connect to Hoanib further up. So it is only D3707 now?

Please don't tell me they also restricted Huarusib - as you know I wanted to ride the whole length of Huarusib from Purros all the way to Opuwo (and also Purros canyon). Are there any restrictions there (people from the Purros lodge were trying to get bikes out of Purros canyon for ages, so I have bad feeling)?

Thank you.
 
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