We rolled up to the Black Cone’s base and doffed as much kit as we could to begin the ascent. The whole feature is composed of large basalt boulders, so climbing was like playing on a jungle gym. At the top, the wind roared and we took an hour admiring the view and just taking it all in. We’d made it to our destination. It was hard for me to process. I’d been planning it for years, and here I was. Neb phoned his dad on our borrowed Satellite Phone. We are very far from help if something goes wrong, so we made an extra effort to have a backup plan. With the Sat-Phone we could call one of Wry’s mates who owns a helicopter and had agreed to be our life-line if needed. It was nice piece of mind. This place is no joke, a fact that became clearer with every passing hour.
Above: Wry climbs to the Eastern edge
Above: Me and the boys. Cheers fellas, we made it!
Above: Wry and Neb studying the dunes
Above: From the other side of the Cone, the bikes look like toys. From there, I could just make out that somebody’s helmet had fallen in the sand! Ha ha ha… shit. It was mine.
Above: In the Cone’s “dimple” Wry and I play the fool
Above: Back down again, a little less energetic, but totally fulfilled.
We agreed that for this first foray into the Valley, we wanted to explore Aruba Rock, the castle-like tan volcanic core jutting from the ground some kilometres away, and see if we could get to Lake Logipi. So,rather than play the day away in the dunes, we had to get moving. Right away, I delayed our plans by getting myself stuck… twice. The first time, I missed the line and ended up off the lee side of a dune in the soft sand. I managed to extricate myself from there, but as I ground my way around the bowl of the dune, I got trapped right where Wry had churned up the sand earlier on. Neb had to come give me a hand or I wasn’t going anywhere. That battle wore me out further, I was beginning to see where this was going...
Above: Me, well and truly dug in.
Once I was out, we made our way to new territory out the North end of the dunes near Aruba Rock. Before long, Neb rode ahead of me and parked on a dune top and I could see spots in the sky ahead. Helicopters. Twice a day, two high-end tour operators take clients on helicopter rides over Kenya’s desert highlights, including Aruba Rock and the Black Cone. I rushed to where Neb was, and almost went over backwards as a fist full of throttle in soft sand caught hold and the wheel lifted up well past my comfort zone! I was parked and settled by the time the first bird thumped a circle around us, and we watched as the third and fourth, both four-seaters, descended to eye-level in the distance and charged directly at us and over our heads, waving. A very cool salute from colleagues of Wry’s friend.
Above: Spread out aiming for Aruba Rock
Above: Our helicopter fly-by. Also in the video below.
Once the choppers were specks in the southern sky, we continued toward Aruba Rock. Soon, we could see that the black skirt surrounding the Rock was composed of large volcanic rubble, impassable on a bike, at least from the South. By this time, Neb, the food alarm, was getting hungry and we all agreed it was time to park up somewhere shady, chew some vittles, down some water and ORS and maybe wait out the heat of the day before pushing North. At this point, we were considering camping in the valley overnight. There was no sign of anyone anywhere for miles. It would be breath-taking to see dusk and dawn in that place. But given our water situation (6L each, half of it gone already), it could have also been daft and dangerous.
Above: Aruba Rock flanked by her skirt of black stones… another time, I will approach from another angle where it looks like dunes reach the base. I’d love to see that thing under a full moon.
Above: The riding was spectacular. We tracked off-piste through stones, bush and deep sand.
Above: A lone dune on the backside of one of the Valley’s crescent volcano mouths. Distance and size are deceptive in the desert. That dune is several storeys high and 300M along the spine.
Above: We carved a place out from beneath a palm and tucked in. Neb cut up his signature chili chives Brown’s cheddar, and we all shared tins of chicken and fish.
Above: We decided to let the clouds come in if they were going to, and let the heat of the day move along a spell. We crashed out under the palm’s shade and tried to ignore the sweat flies for an hour with mixed results. Wry managed to snore a bit, but I felt like a baked potato. It was 38C/100F in the shade and the breeze was giving out.
Above: This was the best we could do for shade…
To be continued...