Today was a great day.
I haven’t been on the XRR since Suguta Valley, and haven’t ridden with Panic for longer. After Suguta, I had the frame re-welded (extra beefy this time), changed chain and sprockets, dropped the oil and did a service. Sometimes after being off the bike awhile, I can feel like a giraffe on roller-skates, but this time it was like putting on my own skin. The bike felt invisible and I was in the mood to give her a proper thrashing. Normally day rides are short, often ending up at Olepolos for kuku choma and home by 2, but today I had in mind a bit longer one. We ended up doing 350km over 8 hours, riding from the Rift Valley Rim at 2050m to Lake Magadi at 600m and back. All but 40km were dirt, rocks, sand and salt-pan. With just the two of us, matched perfectly in terms of pace, we hauled ***. Every time I looked back, Panic was right there, egging me on. As a result, I basically decided to leave the camera in its pouch and enjoy the ride without the burden of endless documentation. Just got enough shots to remind me of the day.
Above: At one of very few rest stops, the bikes still squeaky clean. The start of the ride took us past the chaos of the new Chinese railroad and now what looks like a tarmac road going to Suswa from Ngong. That area has been irreparably changed for the worse. Met a nice Masai guy who knew a family I stayed with down there in ’98 and suggested I get back in touch so I can help them out. It was depressing… He says “You know so and so has 5 kids...”, to which I reply “That was their choice, not mine.”
Above: Down towards Butt Brothers’ Farm road, we found the first of what would be three groups of masai giraffe enjoying the day. The track here has such great flow. Fast the whole way, mostly sandy with a few rock outcroppings to cross.
Above: Past Butt Brother’s Farm on the back-way to Magadi via Sigiriani. The first half of this leg was beautiful, fast double track drifting. It didn’t last though and we were abused by the endless loose stones later. I was impatient and refused to follow a detour I’d found previously and we paid for it, trying to bee-line it through scrub brush over the top of the loose baby-heads.
Above: Panic gets wrecked by a dust-devil... in Zambia they say if one of these puppies crosses your path, something bad is going to happen to you or your family. Very prophetic this time around... later Panic eats it!
Above: After half an hour trying to ride directly over loose rocks without a trail, we gave up and hit the railroad tracks. The railroad here only serves the TATA factory at Magadi, so the chances of finding a train were very slim and we only had 5km to go. I got between the rails and blasted it, keeping a steady 80 – 90kph (faster than the train, I reasoned). In places, the sleepers had no stones in between them which was quite jarring, and it was nerve-wracking going around the one blind corner but we made it.
Above: Dropping down into the salt flats behind L. Magadi. This road was in great nick, so I’m sure there must be a link to it that could keep us out of the railway.
Above: At Magadi, we stopped at the sports club for a nice beef stew lunch and a couple of cold ones. The temperature was beautiful, only 30 C which is pretty rare, being at the bottom of the Valley.
Above: After lunch, we explored a new track that heads to Torosei without needing to skirt the Lake or climb through the volcano (both fun things to do, but new tracks are always fantastic, and this way we don’t get bothered by Masai insisting we pay “conservation fees”). The going was very fast and dusty as hell. Panic was up my tailpipe, so he was riding blind. Sometimes he would ride off the side of the track in order to avoid the dust plume, but this time he picked a bad spot for it. He hammered this massive tree trunk, doing a nice headplant on the other side. See, Panic, you need to watch out for those dust-devils! Happily, there was no harm done, and we ripped on.
Above: One very looong loop. The XRR is a time machine. We compressed what people often do in a weekend into one day out. To be fair, we were very quick partly because the two of us have ridden these tracks a million times, so sightseeing was minimal and the joy of braaaping was put to the forefront. I like it like that sometimes. Riding for riding’s sake.
:snorting: