Italy trip 12 moutain passes

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lurker

Pack Dog
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
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Location
Cape Town
Bike
KTM 1190 Adventure
Arrived in Milan on the 6th July collected the car and left for Verona, while traveling we went through numerous toll gates which opened just as we got close so we thought the hire company is probably paying for this. Just before Verona the toll gate did not open and the machine kept on rattling something in Italian, I intern replied in English not knowing what the faark I was supposed to do and being already stressed out from getting my head around left hand drive and driving on the right hand side of the road and having a queue of pissed off Italians behind me all I wanted was to get on with my holiday and try my hardest to keep cool and not strip my moer completely kick the machine to pieces and moer the first Italian who gets close to me. Eventually the gate opened and we were on our way. When we got to the off ramp for Verona and stopped at the toll gates once again a machine rattled off in Italian, eventually a ticket came out and we got the pleasant surprise, the toll  charge from Milan to Verona 68 Euros. Faaark this is going to be one ******* expensive holiday,when we eventualy got to the Hotel I bitched to the receptionist that Italy is a total rip off. She replied NO NO NO it was our fault we should have taken a ticket from the first gate that stopped us and used this when we got into Verona and we would of paid 9 Euros, so we now learned a very expensive lesson. Next day left for Venice full of confidence and ready for the rest of the holiday. Verona has very narrow roads mostly all 1 ways and lots of circles, in the process I clipped the back of a bus with the rear view mirror **** more expenses and we are only 2 days into the holiday.
Got to Venice airport and could not wait to give back the car. The heat wave had now hit Italy and this was going to be the hottest July in 65 years. The early morning starts at 29 degrees by 3 pm it is 38 and by 10 pm when the sun finally sets its 32 degrees, humidity between 84 and 89.
Did the Venice thing, gondola ride and churches and palaces with thousand of other tourists and at about 4.30pm it suddenly got coolish and the wind picked up and it looked like we were going to have a thunderstorm but the clouds looked strange anyway ducked back to the hotel and the heavens opened with bucketing rain. **** this is all we need as we are picking up the bike the next day to start the real holiday. Next morning all over the news this was not a thunder storm but a Tornado hit Venice about 10ks from our hotel, the first ever Tornado in known history. Holy **** this holiday is getting more and more interesting,what next?
Collected the bike, BMW 800 GS cheapest we could afford with our kak rand now at 14 to 1 and started packing and soon realised we had far to much luggage especially warm clothes as it was now supposed to be cool in the alps and not a heat wave. By the time we finished packing it looked like we were doing a world tour, Matteo from 2 wheel cycles looked at the bike and said how the hell are you going to all the mountain passes and Stelvio with this load. I said hey my broer we are from SA we dont take kak.
Set up GPS and headed for Alleghe which would be our base for 2 days. Arrived safely,awesome hotel on the lake and ordered 2 large ice cold beers and planned our route for the next day.
The route was the Dolomite mountains starting with Giau Pass onto Valperola with a stop at the 1st WW fort and museum, then onto Gardena, Castalunga,Falzerago with a stop at a old castle,Sella and  Pordoi and back to Alleghe.
What a awesome place to ride stunning mountains, good roads, 5 degree bends, up and down lots of tunnels, the best riding experience ever.
Will continue next report with trip which will be from Alleghe to Merano which will be Fedia pass Carezza and Nigre pass
 

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Left Merano for Bormio via Stelvio Pass,this has been on my bucket list since it was aired by Top Gear 2 years ago and finally we are on our way. This is the most awesome pass in Italy, 2760 meters of just one bend after the next. Had lunch at the restaurant at the top and lay in the snow, it was 30 degrees even though there was still plenty of snow.
 

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Going down Stelvio was more scenic than the up route with waterfalls and 6 tunnels, some so narrow that only 1 vehicle can pass at a time. We booked into the Bagni Vecchi hotel which has natural hot springs dating back to 500 BC and the little church was originally part of a Roman Villa which was changed to a church 500 years later. Under neath the hotel are long tunnels caused by molten lava and the natural springs now flow through them. You swim up the tunnels and lay in the hot water which is crystal clear
and then there are pools of ice cold glacier water which is beyond cold and i only managed to get in up to my knees, there is no way i was going to freeze my nuts off (literally)
The only pass left is Garcia pass through the Stelvio national park which was the next days trip.Pics to follow
 

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The next day we left Bormio for Pisogne a little village on Lake Iseo and went through the Stelvio national park via Garcia Pass starting with a little town which looks ancient, the roads are still original Roman road. This pass was for me the most challenging as it was very narrow with places where 2 bikes could just pass. No barriers with 1000meter plus drop offs but it was also the must scenic and rugged. At the top was the Lombardi Glacier and a small restaurant and war memorials and small churches, on the way down we passed lakes where old volcanoes are dormant and really awesome views. Just outside Pisogne we visited what they call the pyramids which is sand stone which over thousands of years has eroded leaving a rock still attached at the top
 

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Tharina and myself did much the same, based from Ponte de Legno at the bottom of Passo Garcia. We borrowed a bike for her too, and Garcia was our first pass. She has a fear of heights and this pass completely freaked her out. Some of the switchbacks was so tight that a GS has to roll back to get around it.

We also did Stelvio that day and when we returned home that was the end of it. Pillioned for the rest of the time.
 
It is weird we drove so many passes including Stelvio and Garcia was the last pass but it just does something to you and you have that tight nuts feeling all the time, a couple also doing it for the first time on 2 bikes had the same problem, she could not get around the switch backs and they gave up and went back
 
Been there and got the T shirt, irrespective of whether you ride dirt or the black stuff place these passes on your bucket list, it's a must.
 
Nice trip Lurker. I have been to all the places and seeing this makes me a little bit homesick. It's been 25 years :'(
Your SA way of taking on Europe is refreshing. I hope it didn't burn a too deep hole in your pockets  :biggrin:
Give us some more.
 
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